The Peru Ecolodge that Made Our Trip Complete: Ulcumano!

cloudy green mountain
Clouds seem to emanate from the very hills

It’s tough to impress someone who has recently completed the legendary Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. The bar is just set too high. But that’s exactly what happened when we stayed at this wild and exceptionally inspirational Peru ecolodge.

We stayed at Ulcumano during our time in the high jungle region of Oxapampa, right after visiting Cusco and Machu Picchu. Despite only being 30 minutes from town, Ulcumano feels far from everything. Several small cabins comprise the entirety of the living quarters. Each is invisible from the others, providing a relaxing and solitary spot to recharge while admiring the cacophony of bird calls, flittering of butterflies, Jurassic-size ferns, and breathtakingly beautiful moonrises among the clouds that cycle through crisp air and then roll over the verdant mountains.

The cabins are basic but have a full private bathroom (with hot water!) and a balcony to best view the outdoors. They’re fully solar powered, too.

inside wooden room with 2 beds at the Peru ecolodge of Ulcumano.
Inside our cabin

Regardless, most of our time at Ulcumano was spent outside. That’s because we were either on a hours-long trudge through the cloud forest to the mouth of a colossal cave, walking on 40-foot-tall bridges while searching for animals with the brightness of a full moon, or savoring the freshly prepared meals in the common area.

Ulcumano is an excellent example of conservation science meeting outdoor travel. The 252-acre site has been completely converted from grasslands, and the lodge is run by a family. The wife is a local from Oxapampa and the husband is a conservation professional. The food they prepare is as good as any bougie restaurant in Lima.

There is only cell phone and internet service in the common eating area, and it’s spotty. You can even find cell phone service at Machu Picchu, so Ulcumano was THE spot that forced us to experience everything around us, with no escape. It was annoying, it was freeing, and it made us feel alive.

Activities

woman standing on cable pedestrian bridge
Night time canopy walk
cable pedestrian bridge

We did a guided tour to a cave, hiking over thick mud and an abandoned road to the entrance of “Tunqui Cueva“. Actually this is the hike in our YouTube video.

At nighttime we found the energy to climb up the stairs of the 40-foot-tall platforms and walk on the canopy bridges. We attempted to spot animals under the shine of the full moon, to no avail. But the chance to witness the tropical canopy at nighttime was worth it in itself.

Other activities at Ulcumano include birdwatching, rappelling and ziplining. Since it’s a small operation, you should contact them ahead of time if you want to do a specific activity.

What to Pack

bright moon at nighttime, shot from grass
Nighttime shot of the moon

This section of the cloud forest is higher in altitude than Oxapampa, so it gets chilly in the evening. Bring clothes for outdoor activities, and try to dress in layers since the days get warm and the nights cold. And bring waterproof clothing!!

Headlamps and flashlights are essential since there is no electricity outside of the cabins. Besides that, know that the only beings that enjoy the cloud forest more than outdoor travelers are bugs. So pack bug spray!

How to Arrive

The lodge actually picks you up from the bus terminal or your hotel in Oxapampa. You’ll see why as you approach Ulcumano; nobody without experience should attempt that rutted, bumpy, nausea-inducing drive!

Conclusion

Sunrise from our cabin. Yup, definitely a cloud forest!

This isn’t the only ecolodge in Peru, or even in Oxapampa. But since we had such an excellent time there, we had to write about it. If you have been to Ulcumano – or are thinking of going – leave a comment below!

Until next time!

-Brad & Jani

Why Visit Oxapampa? Check Out The Local Coffee, Culture & Adventures!

The cloud forest at sunrise

Green hills roll on as if the Amazon created waves that were frozen in place, and clouds seem to emanate from them with the sunrise. You watch this while sipping local coffee at your Bavarian-inspired ecolodge. You thank yourself for deciding to visit Oxapampa and wonder what adventure to do today.

A hike through tropical climates that ends at a mythical cave? Walking the canopy bridges with an over-enthusiastic and incredibly entertaining group of birders? Ziplining past tree lines and over valleys?

Maybe you just decide to chill at a bar, sipping local micro-brews and admiring the springlike weather and Alpine-like geography.

Oxapampa was populated by German immigrants in the mid-1800s. Native communities such as the Tsachopen and Ashaninka have kept their presence, too. So here you’ll sip local (delicious) coffee and look out the window to spot Bavarian architecture among tropical scenery. And your menu might be in Spanish and German.

Sunset hitting the verdant hillsides just outside town

What to Do

The Popular Options

The cultural experiences

Walking on the main plaza
  • La Merced coffee tours. All bias aside, this region has the BEST coffee in Peru!! If you like strong, earthy coffees, this is your place. La Merced is 2 hours from Oxapampa and buses leave regularly. Price should not be more than S/ 25 a person.
  • Main Plaza. Stroll around the large, shady plaza. Some of the best food is found in the restaurants and cafes here.
  • Pozuzo, the original German settlement. Here everything is just a little more German. Pozuzo is smaller and warmer than Oxapampa and hosts an Oktoberfest every year. It’s 2 hours from Oxapampa and buses leave regularly. The trip is S/ 25 a person.

Note: The route to Pozuzo is a swerving, curving dirt road which can be unsafe during times of rain. Consult with a local before jumping on the bus.

  • El Wharapo: Check out the old-fashioned way of making cane sugar and get some samples too! This is about 2 miles (3.3 km) from Oxapampa. This is close to Tunqui Cueva so you can make a half day trip of Tunqui and El Wharapo.
El Wharapo. Notice the sugar cane branches in the truck.

outdoors adventures

Searching for large mammals on the nighttime hanging bridges tour!
  • Hanging Bridges Tour. So good we did it twice! The 40-foot high bridges put you right in the forest canopy at Ulcumano Ecolodge. You can do this as part of your stay (one activity a day is included) or as an independent activity. If you can, go at night.

Ulcumano is a top-ranked place to stay in Oxapampa and is a local leader in ecotourism. It was a surprising highlight during our 2022 trip to Peru.

  • Rio Tigre waterfall: Get in some walking, work up a sweat, and soak off in the falls!! This is a good half-day option. The waterfall is over 60 feet (20 meters) tall. Any taxi or mototaxi (tuk-tuk) can take you here. Try to go first thing in the morning.
  • Tunqui Cueva: This cave is only 3 miles (5k) from Oxapampa. You only need about 30 minutes to explore and see rock figures such as “La Bruja” (the witch). Creepy. Bring a flashlight. 
  • Yanachaga Chemillen National Reserve. Here you’ll be among hundreds of Cock-of-the-Rocks, who flock near the campsite around 4pm. The park guides are friendly and informative. You can do a half-day visit or camp (bring your own gear). The easiest way to arrive is to take a car from “Oxa” towards Pozuzo. Just tell the driver you are going to the park.

What to Eat

View from Cafe Heidinger
Every self-respecting “Oxapampino” knows the process for making coffee, from bean to pour!
Coffee beans!

Oxapamapa has a unique mix of culture, history and geography. Because of that you’ll find an eclectic gastronomy to enjoy!

This includes German-inspired dishes (including secret-recipe German beer!) and typical jungle dishes. My personal favorite is tacacho, made of plantain and pieces of fried pork.

Oxapampinos are most proud of the region’s coffee. You can have a great cup anywhere and buy bags of local beans to bring home. I recommend going to to the cafe at Hotel Heidinger (a 10 minute walk from the main plaza).

This is a rarity- a specialty coffee shop in the same area where the coffee is grown!

Where to Stay

Our cabin at Carolina Egg. That’s an avocado tree in front of it!
Monkey! Peeking at us from that same avocado tree.

The best eco and adventure option is Ulcumano (see Outdoors Adventures above).

Also, family-run and sustainability-minded Carolina Egg Gesthaus is $45 a night for a room (includes breakfast). We stayed here in 2019 and 2022 and loved it both times.

They have a bonfire every night, and during the day it’s warm enough to dip in the pool. The buildings are traditional log cabins set around tropical vegetation. This is the spot to stay in town.

False Bird-of-Paradise flowers in Carolina Egg’s garden.
Misty sunrise from our cabin at Ulcumano Ecolodge
Later that day, sunset at Ulcumano

When to Visit Oxapampa (Including Weather)

Clucksters

The rainy season is from November through March. Try to avoid those months. Torrential rains can make transportation to Oxapampa difficult.

When you go, bring sunblock, a hat, and repellant. The average temperature in Oxapampa is in the high-60s all year (17-18 C), so bring layers for cool nights and warm afternoons.

Festivals

  • The Festival of San Juan on June 23rd is the biggest party in the Central Jungle.
  • Selvamanos is an increasingly popular music festival. Every year they have it in June or July.
  • Octoberfest in Pozuzo is celebrated in September or October (date varies).

How to Get There

Dirt bikes, called “motos”, are THE mode of transportation in Oxapampa

Movil Tours and Cruz del Sur provide transportation from Lima to Oxapampa. Depending on the seat and when you buy it costs S/ 40 to 85. The ride takes about 10 hours.

I recommend getting a seat that reclines at least 160 degrees on an overnight bus, so you can sleep and don’t lose a day traveling!

Conclusion

The bright full moon over Oxapampa

The central jungle’s biggest city is a cool cultural tourism spot with tons of outdoor adventure options. I fell in love with an Oxapampina, then fell in love with “Oxa”.

I cannot recommended enough going to this slightly off-the-beaten path spot, as it might be the unexpected highlight of your trip.

Check out this 10-day off-the-beaten path Peru itinerary to get started.

The Earth-Friendly Guide to Visit Ica

blue car on desert during sunset

Definitely visit Ica if you get the chance while in Peru- especially if you’re already in Southern Peru. The city has perfect Pisco, dope dunes for sandboarding, and is near awesome wildlife-viewing and cultural experiences. Ica has a unique cultural heritage and, being in a desert, offers different outdoor opportunities than the jungle and Andes. It’s a great stop for a Southern Peru trip or just as a getaway from Lima.

What to Do

The Popular Spots

Huacachina

Huacachina is the name of the game for tourism in Ica. The desert oasis has gotten too popular for some visitors in recent years. But it’s worth walking around a real oasis and sandboarding down those awesome dunes at sunset!

man beach people sand

The dune buggy tours will take you to several dunes to sandboard down. Too many buggies and tourists have had a negative impact on Huacachina, so consider just walking up a dune instead. Work those calves, baby.

Nazca Lines

The Paracas and Nazca cultures made the enigmatic Nazca Lines between 200 BC and 700 AD. There are crazy spirals, long lines, and figures such as a hummingbird, monkey, condor, and even one called the spaceman, still etched in the sand.

We still don’t know why the lines were made, but underground waterways are possibly connected. (Aliens certainly are not.)

And contrary to popular belief, you don’t need a plane ride from Lima to see the Nazca Lines. Just take more environmentally-friendly local transport to Palpa (1.5 hours) or Nazca (2.5). Both towns have viewing towers from which many of the lines and figures can be seen.

From Nazca, you can return to Ica or go on to Cusco and Arequipa.

The Cultural Experiences

  • Brujas de Cachiche: The famous witches of Cachiche are a mere 10 minutes from Ica. If witchcraft ain’t your thing, at least see the mysterious 7-headed palm tree and the witch’s monument.
  • El Carmen District, Chincha: Check this out on the way from Lima. El Carmen is the place to witness and experience Afroperuvian food, dress, and music. Chincha is only 1.5 hours from Ica.
  • Ruta del Pisco: Literally, the Pisco Route. This isn’t an official, mapped out route. Just start at one of the distilleries such as El Cantador or Vista Alegre for a tour and tasting and take a mototaxi to the next one. My personal favorite Pisco maker? Tacama!

Parks and Wildlife

  • Islas Ballestas: Penguins? Near the equator? Yup. There are also sea lions, flamingos (!), and dolphins. Take a boat tour and consider camping at Paracas National Reserve. There are campsites near El Chaco beach. The Islas Ballestas are next to Paracas, 1 hour north of Ica.
small humboldt penguin lying on ground in nature
Baby penguin!

What to Eat

On and near the coast in Peru, expect fresh fruit at low prices. Try all the juices you can find.

Seafood, including ceviche, is fresh and delicious.

Locals enjoy lots of butter beans (“pallares”), especially with beef.

For sweets, “tejas” are chocolates filled with all types of flavors and they are hard to find outside of Ica.

Where to Stay

The Upcycled Hostel in Huacachina is the best of both worlds. It’s made of 100% recycled material and comes recommended by travelers.

When to Visit Ica (Including Weather)

Ica is sunny, dry and warm year-round. But nighttime gets a little chilly. Average temperatures range from 66 F (19 C) in July to 74 F (23 C) in January.

There are even more things to do during Tourist Week in November. Nearby, Chincha has a Tourist Week in October.

How to Get There

Public buses are the most environmentally-friendly way to travel across Peru. To visit Ica take any of the major bus companies that go south of Lima.

DestinationTrip Length (Hours)Typical Cost (Soles)
Lima4-540-80
Paracas114-40
Nazca2.5 30-80
Arequipa12-13.5115-155
Cusco17.5170-180

Ica does not have an airport.

Conclusion

penguins rocks and ocean waves
Paracas National Reserve

It’s easy to add Ica to your Peru itinerary since it’s close to Lima. Definitely try slowing down your trip instead of jetting right from the capital to Cusco.

Travelers who slow it down and visit spots on the road between Lima and Cusco will have a better, even more immersive experience in this rich and beautiful country. And, of course, Ica is a GREAT option to add to any itinerary for Southern Peru.

Have you been to Ica? Do you plan on going? Let us know!

The Coolest Things To Do in Cusco

Incan stones sit perfectly on top of each other, mortarless marvels silently mocking their Spanish counterparts. Stunningly blue skies and perfect ancient architecture juxtaposed against colonial buildings take up tourists’ imaginations. Similarly, the countless photogenic spots take up the tourists’ phone data too.

Cusco is the longest-inhabited city in the Americas. Take time to appreciate the culture and history here. And if you get antsy, there are plenty of activities in and around town, too.

What to Do

The attractions in Cusco are the city’s history and proximity to Machu Picchu. Pretty much all of the region’s adventure activities are in the Sacred Valley and not the city itself. But there are excellent hikes and activities to do in and next to Cusco, and I included those in this list.

Note: Places with (B) next to them are part of the “boleto turistico”. Sixteen sites are available ONLY with this Tourist Ticket. You can buy the ticket at the office at Avenida el Sol 103. Current prices are found on the website here.

Culture

  • San Blas: This artist’s haven is a 10 minute uphill walk from the city’s principle plaza and has some of Cusco’s best restaurants.
  • San Pedro Market: Cusco’s popular market is a lively experience of Peru’s chaotic, delicious, and culture-shock inducing market scene. It’s only a 10 minute walk from the main plaza.
  • Stone Walking Tour + Plaza: The (self-guided) Stone Walking Tour was so cool! A simple google search told us how to search Cusco’s streets for the 12-angled stone, the Puma in the wall, and other hidden gems in the cobblestone streets. It takes about 20 minutes. Nearby is the main plaza, always worth a visit in Peruvian towns and especially in Cusco.
  • Qooricancha. This Catholic cathedral was built on top of the Inca’s most important temple. The site reflects the region; Spanish stones are situated to show their culture’s dominance, yet are overshadowed by the more mysterious, mortar-less Incan walls.
The water fountain in the center of San Blas
Just walking’ in the streets of Cusco
Qooricancha from outside.
One side of Cusco’s plaza

Hikes With Incan Architecture

  • Cerro Wanakawri (Huanakaure): At 4,100 meters (13,451 feet) above sea level, this spiritually significant mountain overlooks the ancient Incan capital. It’s right next to Cusco and you can hike there and visit ancient religious sites.
  • Intihuatana + Tipon (B) + Pikillaqta (B): “Intihuatana” means “hitching post of the sun”. These were likely Incan astronomical clocks. Most were destroyed by the Spanish, but fortunately this one survived. Next door is Tipon, the Inca’s royal gardens. Centuries later, water still flows through the canals, and the views of the landscape are wonderful. The archaeological site of Pikillaqta is unique because it predates the Incan empire, having originally belonged to the Wari culture. 
  • Saqsaywaman, Puka Pukara, Q’enko, Tambomachay (all B): We were able to see these archaeological sites in one afternoon. This walk is a great introduction to Incan architecture. Tambomachay’s ancient canals still stream freshwater. And nearby Puka Pukara easily has the best views. Next door is Q’enko, whose macabre ceremonies light up the imagination. Finally, Sacsaywaman has excellent examples of large stones carved into each other with no mortar. This is an Incan specialty! Cars frequently pass by these sites. So you can hop from one place to the next.

Our hike to sacsayhuaman- Photos

The best photos of our hike around the sites next to Cusco were of Sacsayhuaman. We walked about 20 minutes from our hotel through the city to its outskirts, where Sacsayhuaman sits above the plaza.

Almost there!
The field next to Sacsayhuaman
These angled walls are shaped like teeth (Cusco was built in the shape of a puma)
Can you make out the llama figure in these stones?
The awesomest people to visit Sacsayhuaman that day.
On top!
I just like this photo. I didn’t realize there was a person in the middle. But I kind of like the photo even more now. Sorry for interrupting your supposed moment of solitude, random stranger.

 Day Trips from Cusco

  • Laguna Humantay: This turquoise lake provides great hiking opportunities and is becoming more popular. You can take a group tour or hire a taxi. 
  • Palccoyo: Palccoyo is the “other” Rainbow Mountain. It’s less famous than Vinicunca. But, Palccoyo is closer to Cusco. For this reason I’d recommend it over Vinicunca. Just take a bus to Checacupe (2 hours), and from there another car to Palccoyo (30 minutes). The hike is about an hour long. 
  • 3 Canyons (Suykutamba): This beautiful protected area features a river weaving through tall rock formations and archaeological sites. The easiest way to arrive is via tour operator. 

Be sure to read our updated list of 5 day hikes near Cusco, too!

What to Eat

Heavy, potato and rice-based dishes are typical of the Andes. Consider tried-and-true traditional foods like “cuy”, alpaca or anticuchos (beef heart skewers).

And definitely try the soups at night!

Got a hankering for vegetarian food or similar to back home? There are touristy spots catering to other diets and gastronomies all around the city.

Note: to prevent altitude sickness, avoid heavy meals, alcohol and coffee for the first 1-2 days.

Where to Stay in Cusco

The common area in Ninos Meloc
Our room. So cozy. So blue.

Cusco probably has more hotels per capita than any other major city in Peru. But I’ve stayed at one place, Ninos Hotel, twice. That’s because “Ninos” is not just comfortable and clean.

Ninos is a “Green Leader” recognized by TripAdvisor. AND the establishment funds childcare for underserved children in Cusco.

The restaurant is also amazing and has a fireplace (did I not say cozy?).

They have two locations, both walking distance to the main plaza.

When to Visit Cusco (Including Weather)

The rainy season starts in November and ends around March. You can visit year-round but torrential rain in the afternoons is common during this period.

Year-round highs hover around 19-21 C (62-70 F), with lows around 6-7 C (41-44 F) in most months. Nighttime gets near freezing from May through August. 

Inti Raymi

Every June 24th Cusco celebrates the solstice with its biggest party! Traditional dances, clothing and ceremonies highlight this celebration of the sun.

How to Get There

An overnight buscama from these locations can be comfortable and save you money on lodging:


Destination
Length of TripPrice (Soles)
Arequipa10.5 hours29-167
Lima21-22 hours29-78
Nazca15 hours29-177
Puno6.5 hours29-65

Note: The US Dollar to Nuevo Sol exchange rate tends to hover around 3:1

Regular, frequent flights arrive from all major Peruvian cities.

Conclusion

Cusco is the navel of the world in the Incan worldview. And it will possibly be the center of your trip. After all, one can spend weeks just exploring the city and its surroundings!

Have you been? Let us know?

Wanna go? Consider making Cusco part of a bucket list adventure!

Thanks for reading :)

(Green)go Inca Market- Check Out Where to Stay in Peru

We don’t offer exotic fruits but we can take you to somewhere that does!

I’ve stayed in a LOT of places in Peru. But this is not why I started the Gringo Inca Market. See, not everyone who claims to be a green business actually cares for the environment. Simply put, they’ve mastered the dirty marketing technique of saying they’re green while changing absolutely nothing.

This saddens me since I love Peru and nature. Plus, most tourist spots and their local economies depend on a thriving environment. No one wants to destroy a place they love to visit.

This lists places to stay in Peru that fit my own personal sustainability standards. Not every city is on this list, since I couldn’t find a good spot everywhere. But if you want to visit Peru and keep your carbon footprint low at a high quality spot, this is where you should start.

An additional note: the hotel links will take you to HotelsCombined’s website. I like HotelsCombined because they price guarantee. If you book at ANY of the places listed below, then find a lower price somewhere else, they will pay you back the difference within 30 days.

Policies like this can help you avoid the inflated precio Gringo (Gringo Price). This is a common practice where sellers raise prices substantially for tourists.

Gringo Inca Market: Top Activities in Peru

Along with the greenest hotels in Peru, I listed top activities for the cities listed. Now, the experiences I recommend are among the most popular in Peru. This means you’ll save time and some headaches buying tickets ahead of time.

Each activity link uses Get Your Guide. I like GYG because they guarantee a better, cheaper experience. This is because their packages have a better average online rating than other providers. Also, if you find the same activity for a lower price, they’ll reimburse you.

And if you have a last-minute change of plans, you can cancel with no fee up to 24 hours in advance with Get Your Guide.

So look no further for where to stay and what to do, with the best prices guaranteed to make your money last longer in South America (and feel good about it)!

Gringo Inca Market lists cities in alphabetical order, because I really liked the photo for Arequipa.

Arequipa

Snow on mountain overlooking church steeple
Photo by Megan Kotlus on Unsplash

Peru’s 2nd largest city arguably has its best food scene (which says A LOT). Hike some snowcapped volcanoes, see some condors, and eat awesome food.

Where to Stay

It’s unfortunately hard to find a good green hotel in Arequipa. Your best bet is in nearby Chivay (a better spot anyway!). It has hot springs, a cool archaeological site, oh and it’s in Colca Canyon! Check out Inkari Ecolodge.

Top Activities

Hiking Colca for epic treks and wildlife viewing (especially for condors) is the name of the game! Lots of people hop on over to Puno and Lake Titicaca afterwards.

valley with river
Colca Canyon. Photo by Agnieszka M on Unsplash

Cusco

people in cobblestoned street
Photo by NINA PASCAL on Unsplash

The center of the Incan universe is a cultural gem and starting point for world class hikes like the Inca Trail and to one of the Wonders of the World, Machu Picchu.

Where to Stay

I’ve stayed at Niños hotel twice and love it both times. Niños is a “Green Leader” recognized by TripAdvisor, and also funds childcare for underserved children in Cusco. Try their pumpkin soup. Really.

Top Activities

Get your tickets to Machu Picchu and possibly Huaynu Picchu (highly recommended!) ahead of time.

And don’t forget to buy a round-trip bus ticket to Machu Picchu if you stay in Aguas Calientes.

Interested in the Inca Trail or another hike? Check out Cachi for an ethical tour company that works directly with local communities.

Ica/Huacachina

Sandboard and drink Pisco in a desert oasis just a few hours from Lima!

But since the attraction here is at risk from sand erosion, be mindful of your impact. Consider renting a board and walking up the hills instead.

Where to Stay

The Upcycled Hostel is completely made of recyclable materials and has a great vibe. Who can’t love that?!

Top Activities

It’s all about sandboarding and Pisco (or wine). The dune buggies are popular but contribute to the erosion, which puts the oasis at risk.

One of the most popular places to visit in Peru is nearby Paracas and its Islas Ballestas (“Peru’s Galapogos”). Take a boat ride and see penguins (plus lots of other awesome wildlife)!

Lima

men playing music with building in background
Photo by Gringo Inca

Peru’s capital offers the country’s largest and most diverse food scene. Plus there are a ton of great museums to check out, and you can take surfing lessons in Miraflores. Almost every itinerary for Peru includes Lima.

Where to Stay

Kaminu Backpackers offers free filtered water. This is actually a big deal since Lima’s a desert city (the 2nd largest in the world!), and people unfortunately rely on plastic water bottles.

Kaminu offers bike rentals too, and is located in artsy, hip Barranco.

Top Activities

EAT! Whether it’s a hole-in-the-wall menu or a top-ranked restaurant, the food is world famous. Definitely try ceviche and check out Chinatown for Peru’s best Chinese food, too.

To learn more about Peru’s rich history and culture, Museo Larco Herrera is my personal favorite spot, but there are bunch of museums to pick from in Lima. Adventure-wise, surfing next to the cliffs in Miraflores is recommended.

Oxapampa

woman zip lining over vegetation. Gringo Inca market
Photo provided by Ulcumano Ecolodge

My favorite place, combining springlike weather all yearlong, adventures, parks, great food, and exceptional beer & coffee! “Oxa” is off the radar for most international tourists but Peruvians know it as a top vacation spot.

Where to Stay

Ulcumano ecolodge is a local leader in both ecotourism and adventure tourism. They offer guests zip lining, rappelling, and rock climbing opportunities.

Top Activities

Lots of nature! There are refreshing waterfalls like Rio Tigre, a cave (Tunqui Cueva), and great wildlife viewing at Yanachaga Chemillen National Park. And nearby is Pozuzo, the original German settlement in Peru.

Puno/Lake Titicaca

stone road next to waterbody. Gringo Inca Market
Photo by yours truly

Check out Peru’s richest spot for Andean culture and beautiful clear skies. And you can have an island practically to yourself by staying at an ethical community-run homestay.

Where to Stay

Overnight in an island at the homestay in Taquile or the family-run Kantuta lodge in Amantani. This way you’ll experience the islands without the day tour crowds getting in the way.

Top Activities

The most popular is the day tour of the floating Uros islands and Taquile island. Take a kayak for a more eco-friendly adventure option.

Sacred Valley & Aguas Calientes

mist coming over stone structures with green peak in background. Machu Picchu

Often the last stop on the way to Machu Picchu, the Sacred Vally is full of Incan architecture and cultural treasures. Aguas Calientes is the very last town before Machu Picchu.

Where to Stay

Ollantaytambo’s El Albergue is a cool hotel/restaurant that uses local food, liquor, and coffee. Rupa Wasi in Augas Calientes has a great vegetarian/vegan restaurant, the Tree House.

Top Activities

In Ollantaytambo, visit the archaeological site. Tourists often comment the architecture there is even more impressive than at Machu Picchu. And the ancient baths still have running water!

There isn’t much to do in Aguas Calientes, but check out the hot springs after a long hike. Get a roundtrip bus ticket to Machu Picchu ahead of time.

What’s Next

That’s it for now. But we are going to putting more on the Gringo Inca Market. In the works are a book and sustainably sourced travel equipment. So stay tuned!

Hike Huayhuash: Our Guide to Peru’s Most Beautiful Trek

Hike Huayhuash and get away from it all. Man in red coat hiking green mountain with brown mountain in background.
Find it all at Peru’s best overlooked trek… Huayhuash!

Blue, green, and turquoise lakes. Icy peaks, flowing rivers, and glaciers. And often not a human in sight. This is your experience if you hike the globally-recognized Huayhuash.

What is Huayhuash?

Huayhuash is a private conservation area managed by local communities. It’s recognized as one of the best hikes in the world. And with only 5-7,000 visitors a year, it’s much less crowded than the Inca Trail (which sees 500 people a day!).

Huayhuash is already well-known in trekking circles, and mountain biking is available now, too.

I think the best part of Huayhuash is that you can create your own adventure. Itineraries vary from three to eighteen days. They are generally moderate to moderately strenuous, so you don’t have to be an expert mountaineer to enjoy Huayhaush.

The crazy thing is, the Huayhuash mountain chain is only 30km (19 miles) long. Yet it includes 3 departments in Peru, campsites at 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level, hot springs, turquoise lakes, glaciers, and the country’s second tallest mountain.

Why Hike Huayhuash?

Unlike most hikes in the Andes, this landscape here is more open. Because of that you’ll get amazing views of the mountain chain as you walk and rest at campsites. That’s also why Huayhuash is considered one of the world’s best hikes. Highlights include the three lakes, all different colors, and Peru’s second tallest mountain, Yerupaja. Yerupaja is 6,635 meters (21,800 feet) tall.

The movie Touching the Void (based on a true story) takes place in Huayhuash, too. You’ll get up close with the mountain that Joe Simpson and Simon Yates scaled, Siula Grande.

Plus if you hike Huayhuash you’ll directly contribute to local communities who manage the campsites. And you’ll see cool wildlife like llamas, alpacas, viscachas, Andean foxes, and condors.

Last but not least, this hike is more affordable than its more famous competition in Southern Peru.

But Huayhuash is just as good… perhaps better.

Itineraries in Huayhuash

Again, Huayhaush really is a create-your-own-adventure, which is unique for a hike that’s so highly regarded. There are options for all types of budgets and expectations.

To do the WHOLE hike, there are 15-18 day itineraries. But more visitors take a 9-10 day option or the “mini” 7-day hike. Each of these includes the main attractions of the full 18-day hike. Finally, consider a 3-day hike if you’re short on time, funds, or aren’t sure about a longer trek.

Almost all of these start in Llamac in Ancash department and include the view of three lakes. Campsites are usually at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level.

Most Common Itineraries for Huayhuash

  • 3 days: 15-20 km (9-12 miles). You’ll see a few of the major spots, all in the department of Ancash.
  • 7 days: This is the “mini” version and is considered the minimum amount of time to see most of Huayhuash, and it changes depending on visitor preference.
  • 10 days: Generally 110-115 km (about 70 miles); check out the sample itinerary below for more details!
  • 15-18 days: This is the full Huayhuash hike and the only way to see everything.
  • NOTE: All of these include one or two passes at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) a day and start in the village of Llamac in Ancash

Alternative Hiking Options for Huayhuash

Some hikes start in the thermal baths in the department of Lima and include the Raura mountain range, which is adjacent to Huayhuash. A few tour companies offer archaeology-based hikes, and several center on mountain climbing.

9-Day Example Itinerary

The most common itinerary for Huayhuash is 9-11 days. That’s because you see all the “big” attractions and aren’t going to be rushed. This is a moderately strenuous trek which includes several 8-9 hour long hikes.

Day 1

You start off in Huaraz (Ancash’s hiking capital and 8 hours from Lima). From there it’s a 2 hour ride to Chiquian, and from there 1 more hour to Llamac.

Llamac is where trek begins.

From Llamac it’s a forty minute walk to Pocpa, and a further 1.5 hours to the campsite. Another option is to continue hiking uphill to Cuartelhuain for the night.

Day 2

Start getting used to early mornings! At 7 am start the 2 hr uphill walk to Cacananpunta Pass, located at 4,750 meters or 15,580 feet above sea level. By lunchtime the hiking gets easier and you camp at Mitucocha.

Mitucocha is next to a river and you’ll chill with views of snowcapped mountains from the green valley.

Hike Huayhuash- river with rocks with green shore and snowcaps in background.
Campsite at Mitucocha.

Day 3

This is another 5 hour day of hiking. Today the tallest point is Yanapunta Pass, at 4,650 meters, or 15,260 feet. If you haven’t started, consider coca tea for the altitude.

You end up at Carhuacocha lake to camp for the night.

Yanapunta pass on Huayhuash Hike. People walking on yellow mountain with snowcaps in distance.
Yanapunta Pass. You get an idea of how massive the landscape is by the people in the middle.

Day 4

It’s the first big day! That’s because you’ll walk for 8 hours, see the 3 lakes, and go over Siula Pass, next to the infamous Siula Grande.

Siula Pass is the tallest pass of the hike so far at 4,785 meters (15,700 feet). From there you’ll get an awesome view of the three lakes and mountain range behind them.

Afterwards it’s all downhill to the Huayhuash campsite.

Suila Pass.

Day 5

This is a day of hiking for 5 hours to Viconga, where you can soak in hot springs. In case it’s not obvious, NEVER pass up a chance to soak in hot springs during a long, cold hike!

You’ll also go over Portachuelo Pass, which is about the same height as Siula, and end up at an altitude of 4,350 meters (17,560 feet) to camp for the night.

Nigh sky with starts and lit up tents below.
Viconga Campsite at night.

Day 6

By now you might be used to getting up at 7am and walking for hours. Which is exactly what you’ll do today. The total hiking time today is about 8 hours.

You’ll summit Cuyoc Pass at 5,000 meters (16,400 feet). From there you’ll view the whole Huayllapa valley and head on down to the campsite. If you have energy go to the Antonio lookout. From there you can view the entire mountain chain.

Day 7

For three hours you’ll walk to the town of Huayllapa, the first place you can buy limited food and supplies.

Rest up, make some phone calls, or just chill in town, because afterwards it’s 4-5 hours of slogging uphill to the campsite at 4,235 meters (13,900 feet).

Day 8

This is the longest day. You’ll hike for roughly 9 hours and go over two passes that are over 4,700 meters (15,400 feet) high. At the second pass, you’ll have lunch and enjoy one last great view of Huayhuash.

Hike Huayhuash- person dwarfed by large brown and yellow mountains and blue sky.
Yaucha Pass

Day 9

Today’s short and 80% of the walk is downhill. You’ll finish at the town of Pacllon. From Pacllon take a bus back to Chiquian and then Huaraz.

Tents on green shore next to river with snowcaps in background.
Campsite on the last night of the Huayhuash hike

Afterwards, rest up, eat, and bask in the knowledge that you did the most awesome hike ever.

Start thinking of how to brag to those people who could’ve come but didn’t :)

How to Prepare

How to Prepare Physically to Hike Huayhuash

Since Huayhuash is a multiday trek and the passes you’ll cross are incredibly high, it’s important to be in good hiking shape and to acclimatize to the altitude.

You can acclimatize in the city of Huaraz and take day hikes from there. First I’d take it easy in Huaraz for a couple of days since the city itself sits at 3,000 meters or 10,000 feet. Before arriving, make sure you’re in good shape and able to take on a long, sometimes strenuous hike. Practice makes perfect, so get in plenty of hiking back home beforehand.

Day Hikes from Huaraz

photo of man sitting on boat surrounded by mountains in Huascaran National park
Huascaran National Park. Photo by Alex Azabache on Pexels.com

The best hikes from Huaraz include:

  • Churup: a glacial lake and a hike that is 6 km (almost 4 miles) total. It’s 3 km up, then 3 km downhill.
  • Huascaran National Park: You can hike for hours among snowpeaks, crystalline lakes, and the famous quenual tree forest in this beautiful park.
  • Lake 69: Just like Churup, this is a completely uphill climb to a glacial lake. But the trek for Lake 69 is twice as long at 12 km (7.5 miles).
  • Paron: This lake is the largest in the Cordillera Blanca mountain chain and generally less visited than Lake 69 and Churup. The hike is 20 km (12 1/5 miles) and you may want to spend the night in nearby Caraz to get an early start.
  • Pastoruri: Pastoruri may be the easiest glacier to visit ever! You’ll spend a few hours on a bus to take the hike, which lasts about an hour.
  • Rajucolta: A 7-km (4.3 miles) hike to a beautiful glacial lake
  • Wilcacocha: 7.6 km or 4.7 miles is all you need to find yet another amazing glacial lake near Huaraz!

Huaraz is a cool town with lots of backpackers and hikers. So it’s easy to find a guide, information on how to arrive to trails, and hiking buddies.

Always stay well-hydrated at these altitudes. Avoid alcohol and caffeine initially, and consider an over-the-counter medicine to avoid altitude sickness.

Finally if you want to try a shorter multi-day hike to prepare for Huayhuash I recommend Santa Cruz, yet another hike recognized as one of the best in the world!

Glacier with person approaching. Pastoruri
Pastoruri glacier. Photo by Willian Justen de Vasconcellos on Unsplash

How to Prepare Mentally for Huayhuash

Whether you think you can or can’t, you’re probably right (Henry Ford).

Remember it’s tents outside every night when you hike Huayhuash. There are no showers and toilets are waterless. So, it’s, ahem, rustic.

If you’ve prepped enough physically, you’ll know. And just knowing may be enough. Of course, who you go with is crucial. When the air is thin, the weather cold, and my legs tired, I always want the most positive people around me.

Finally, just enjoy the hike. It’s not a race, and instead of rushing through and tiring out on Day 4, take your time and set a good pace.

How to Book Huayhuash

Responsible Tourism Professionals

Our friends, Hombres y Montañas (Men and Mountains) have worked in Huayhuash for generations. They are a family company and are professionals in responsible tourism.

Connect with them on Facebook to find out more and make a reservation.

Best time of the Year to Hike Huayhuash

May to September is the best time to hike Huayhuash because the rainy season has ended by about mid-May. The best time to go is late May and June. The vegetation will still be green and it doesn’t get as cold at night as in July or August, which are also the most popular months for trekking in the area.

Avoid traveling in the rainy season from November-April, when landslides are common and accommodations can be hard to find.

Where to Stay & Eat in Huaraz

The backpacker classic in Huaraz is Churup.

Cafe Andino and California Cafe are spots to check out for relaxing with a good book and coffee or coca tea.

There are lots of options for Peruvian food and nightlife, with 13 Buhos perhaps the best spot to grab a drink.

What to bring

The Essentials

Obviously, trekking equipment (and climbing gear if that’s your thing). For a hike similar to the one above, you should have this equipment at a minimum:

  • Backpack with water cover
  • Rain poncho, especially if it’s not June-September
  • Rainproof tent
  • Sleeping bag
  • Waterproof hiking shoes or boots
  • 2 pairs of hiking pants
  • A couple of short sleeved shirts (the weather can get surprisingly warm)
  • 2 long sleeved shirts
  • 1 set of pajamas
  • A bathing suit for Viconga and its hot springs
  • Down jacket
  • Sandals to let your feet breathe when not hiking
  • Sunglasses
  • Quick dry travel towel
  • Head lamp
  • Toiletries, including sunscreen and hand sanitizer
  • Medicine kit
  • Straw filter or similar products
  • Travel medical isurance
  • Snacks! Coca leaves are great for altitude too
  • A GPS if going alone

Nice-To-Haves

You may want to consider these, depending on your preference and how much you want to bring.

  • Solar charger for smartphone
  • Extra camera batteries
  • Trekking poles
  • Sleeping pad
  • Thermos
  • Emergency oxygen

TIPS: It’s common to rent equipment in Huaraz, or to even buy used equipment. Most agencies provide some or most of the equipment written above.

Weather

Sunset over lake and snowcapped mountains. Hike Huayhuash
Huayhuash in the morning. Photo by David Torres on Unsplash

The temperature goes down to 0-2 C (32-36 F) at night and is coldest in July. But it goes up to 20C (68F), even at high altitudes, at daytime.

Expect lighter rainstorms in May and Oct. From June through September, known as “Andean summer”, you can get clear blue skies all day, every day.

Huaraz gets up to 20C (68F) during the day and will go down to 5-6C (40’s F) at night.

How to Get There

Buses leave regularly from Lima to Huaraz all day. The trip takes 8 hours. Huaraz has an airport but flights are not always regular.

From the north, buses from Trujillo and Chiclayo go to Huaraz, too.

Cost

The cost of hiking Huayhuash is going to depend on a lot of factors, especially number of days and what’s included. Depending on price, agencies may provide 3 square meals a day, a tent, sleeping bag, a team to carry supplies, cooks, entrance to the communities’ campsites, and transportation.

Having said that huge caveat, you can expect to more or less pay these amounts for Huayhuash:

  • 3-day tour: $300
  • 9-11 days: $500-650
  • 15-18 days: Up to $1,400
  • Personalized 152km (95 mile) hike: $4,000

If going alone, make sure you pay each community for using the trail and campsites. Remember that only ONE community (Huayllapa) has shops, so you’re not restocking daily.

And expect to pay in cash.

These communities provide the following campsites:

  • Huayllapa: Viconga, Guanacpatayand Huatiaq
  • Llámac: Cuartewain and Jahuacocha 
  • Pacllon: Qashpapampa and Jahuacocha 
  • Pocpa: Pocpa
  • Queropalca: Mitucocha and Carhuacocha
  • Quisuarcancha: Carhuacocha
  • Siula Grande: Base camp
  • Tupac Amaru: Huayhuash 
  • Uramaza: Viconga lake and hot springs  :)

Conclusion

Huayhuash is among the best hikes in the world, and it’s way less crowded than Peru’s most famous hike, the Inca Trail.

Definitely consider it if adventure is in your blood. Just make sure to acclimatize to the altitude and to prepare your body first.

Again, the mountain chain’s preservation depends on local communities, so be sure to leave no trace and respect the people and wildlife. To get the most out of your trip and hike Huayhuash, check out our partners at Hombres y Montañas Huayhuash (Facebook). These guys are responsible tourism professionals who focus on adventure tourism in Ancash.

Unless otherwise noted, all photos by our friend Erick Bernabe from Hombres y Montañas. Muchas gracias, Erick!!

Peru Itinerary 10 Days of Awesome!

Something about visiting Peru wakes up the underlying lust for life that too many people ignore in their day-to-day lives. This country has a fascinatingly vibrant, unique culture and provides truly world-class outdoor adventures; dull moments are rarer than a banana hammock at an American beach. So I wrote this Peru itinerary (10+ days) as a start for planning a trip to this amazing country.

Southern Peru is the region with the most famous sights: Machu Picchu, Cusco, and Lake Titicaca just to name a few. But that means there are a ton of options for hotels, tours, and experiences, which can be overwhelming.

But after years of living and traveling in Peru, I’ve done the trips and research to give my best recommendations for visitors. I like this itinerary because it fits so much into only 10 days, and there are options for travelers who have more time. And this itinerary saves money by taking the bus to destinations instead of flying.

Anywho, check this out if you’re thinking of going to Peru.

Peru Itinerary: The Best 10 Days In South America?!

Days 1 & 2: Before Llamas, Lima

Pretty much any trip to Peru starts in Lima. Try the world-class gastronomy, learn more about Peru in the country’s best museums, and do a surfing lesson.

Some visitors unfairly ignore Lima. It can seem like a sprawling, chaotic city. And it’s covered depressing grey clouds most of the year. But it’s an excellent jumping-off point for lovers of food, adventure, and history.

Where to Stay

More important than the actual hotel, is the neighborhood. Stay in the seaside areas of Miraflores and Barranco, which cater more to tourists are are safer than, say, Lima Centro.

Check out Kaminu Backpackers in artsy Barranco. Kaminu follow sustainable water practices. This is even more important in Lima, the world’s 2nd largest desert city! Kaminu also has a bbq area and bike rentals. Meanwhile, I like Casa Andina in Miraflores for a more traditional hotel experience.

Top Experiences in LIma

  • Surfing the Costa Verde
  • Renting a bike on the boardwalk (malecon) in Miraflores
  • Parasailing over the ocean at Miraflores
  • Visiting the creepy catacombs at San Francisco Cathedral 
  • Get your history on at Museo Larco (including the notorious sala erotica)
  • Eating the local fruits and dishes at Mercado Surquillo in Miraflores
  • Ceviche…. Always ceviche.
Inside the Museo Larco Herrera
Two musicians with cajon and guitar on stone street with trees and Spanish style home in background
The “box” is the traditional cajón and is popular in the coast of Peru. We got a private concert walking around Barranco.

Day 3: Head South to Huacachina

Hop on a bus (I recommend Cruz del Sur) and take the 4.5 hour ride to Ica. From the bus stop, find a taxi to take you to the oasis of Huacachina . Huacachina offers pools, discotecas, and is in the middle of Pisco country.

But in the afternoon take a dune buggy and sandboarding tour instead. That’s why people really come here, anyway. For a more eco friendly option, rent a board for only S/ 10 ($3) and hike up the dunes yourself.

Where to stay

10 days isn’t a lot for visiting Peru. For this reason, you should take the 11 hour bus to Arequipa overnight. This way you’ll save time on travel (and money on lodging!).

But if you do have more time to stay in Huacachina, there are many hotels/hostels of similar quality and price, all along the water. The Upcycled Hostel is notable for its overall vibe and because it’s made of recycled materials.

top experiences in huacachina

  • Dune buggy + Sandboarding tour
  • Or… hike the dunes and sandboard down!
  • Nearby Pisco makers and vineyards (check out Tacama)
  • Chillin at your hotel pool or bar
  • The desert at sunset

Days 4-6: Canyons & Condors in Arequipa

Arequipa’s altitude is 7,661 feet (2,361 meters) above sea level. So take it easy for a day. Take advantage of the food scene (even other Peruvians, with their vocal gastronomic opinions, say Arequipa has amazing food).

Spend the next two days exploring the stunning treks of Colca Canyon. You’ll be able to see the famous Andean condor and soak in hot springs in addition to doing unforgettable hikes. Base yourself in the Colca town of Chivay, or in Arequipa itself.

top experiences in arequipa

  • Condor watching at the break of dawn in Colca Canyon
  • Taking the 1.5 day hike to summit the El Misti or Chachani volcanoes
  • Hiking the various trails of Colca Canyon
  • Take the mesmerizing 1-day “Ruta de Sillar”
  • Visit the city’s historic center (make sure to get a pie from the Santa Catalina Monastery- those nuns know baking!)

where to stay

Casa Andina’s hotel in Chivay has a planetarium on premises (the sky is amazing at night!). Every Casa Andina location has the best breakfast buffet options in Peru IMHO. The chain has a good social responsibility program, too.

If you stay here you’ll get discounts on adventure tour options. Chivay lays between the Cruz del Condor viewing spot and the hot springs of La Calera.

And the highest-rated budget option in the city is Vallecito Backpacker.

Days 7-9: Culture & Cuzco

6 hours from Arequipa is the Inca’s ancient capital of Cuzco. You can spend weeks in and around Cuzco because there is so much adventure, history and culture to explore. But since you only have a few days, I’d prioritize Sacsayhuaman, the Qoricancha temple, San Blas neighborhood, and the San Pedro market.

Make sure to get a tourist ticket (boleto turitisco), or you won’t be able to see many of the sites. The official website for the ticket is here.

Keep in mind Cuzco is even higher than Arequipa (11,521 feet above sea level, or 3,400 meters). You’ll likely need time to acclimatize. Because of this I DO NOT recommend intense day hikes such as the Rainbow Mountain.

Take the train on Day 9 to Aguas Calientes. This way you will make it to Machu Picchu first thing in the morning. Buy tickets ahead of time, including the return trip to Cusco.

top experiences in cusco

  • A half day hike to the archaeological wonders of Tambomachay, Puka Pukara, Q’enko and Sacsayhuaman
  • The Incan Sun Temple, Qoricancha
  • Food at the San Pedro Market
  • Exploring the artsy district of San Blas
  • Day trip to a Sacred Valley town like Pisac or Chinchero for epic hike and souvenir options
  • CHOCOMUSEO!!

where to stay

I’ve stayed at Niños hotel twice and love it both times. Niños is a “Green Leader” recognized by TripAdvisor, and also funds childcare for underserved children in Cusco. It’s walking distance to the main plaza. It’s comfy, clean, and has a wonderful restaurant with fireplace.

two churches in a plaza with blue sky. Cusco, Peru
Cusco’s main plaza
rectangular stones interlaced into each other.
Cusco’s streets are full of amazing stonework, all done with no mortar

Day 10: Machu Picchu!!

The #1 visited destination in Peru has earned this distinction. But that also means Machu Picchu gets very crowded. Therefore, take the earliest bus at 6AM to enjoy the Incan citadel to yourself (at least, as much as is possible).

You can buy a ticket at the bus station the day of or the day before (recommended, since the line can be long).

Make sure to have already bought your ticket to Machu Picchu, in case they run out. Include Huaynu Picchu for the ultimate adventure experience.

Finally, plan your time accordingly so you make it on the train back to Cusco from Aguas Calientes. From Cusco, go back to Lima or your next destination.

If You Have More Time..

Small stone steps

Honestly, it’s tough to include more in a 10-day itinerary for Peru. But if you have more time, consider these options:

Try More Trails in Colca

Want to get in a few days of top-notch treks, without the loads of tourists in Cusco? Then head to Canaconde outside of Arequipa. You’ll get the best hikes of Colca Canyon. Plus you can stay at an ecolodge.

Lake Titicaca: The Largest Freshwater Lake on Earth

Take a 6.5 hr detour between Arequipa and Cusco to Lake Titicaca, which Peru shares with Bolivia. Check out the Uros floating islands and stay with a local family in an island like Taquile or Amantani.

The islands provide excellent hiking opportunities and cool archaeological sites. In Quechua legends, the first Incas were born in Lake Titicaca.

Stone path going down to blue lake. Lake Titicaca, Peru

Extra Options in Cusco

There are a ton of great 1-2 trips from Cusco if you have more time. I recommend Laguna Humantay or the 7 lakes hike.

Sacred Valley

It’s no longer the insider’s secret option, but staying in the Sacred Valley is a great cultural experience. Each village is unique and deserves a day or so of exploring, at least.

Consider Pisac or Chinchero for their archaeological sites and famous traditional markets. If you’re low on time, visit the cobblestoned and fortress-surrounded Ollantaytambo, where you can hop on a train to Aguas Calientes.

woman and 2 kids in bright traditional Peruvian clothes
Family we met in Ollantaytambo

Inca Trail (or an Alternative)

If you have 4+ extra days, definitely consider the Inca Trail or one of its alternatives. Here is my ultimate guide to the Trail and other options to help you decide what is best for you.

Alternatively, the budget option is to take a car to Santa Teresa from Cusco or Ollantaytambo. The next day, take a car to Hidroelectrica, and from there walk the 2-3 hours to Aguas Calientes.

This avoids paying for the train but adds days to your trip. You can save even more money by taking the strenuous 3 hr hike from Aguas Calientes up to Machu Picchu.

Amazon Adventure

Hop on a short flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado to visit the 275,000 ha (over 1 million square mile) Tambopata National Reserve!

Best Time to Go

Try to avoid the rainy season in Cusco and the jungle from November through April. Especially avoid the rainiest months, January and February. Of course, since the coast is a desert, this only applies to the Andes and jungle.

Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail are closed in February.

Conclusion

I hope this Peru itinerary (10+ days) answered questions you had or convinced you go finally make the trip to Peru!

If you’re ready to go then check out my tips on what to pack. After that, you’ll be ready.

Do you have questions on the locations or things to do in Southern Peru? Message me by email (GringoInca@gmail.com), or comment below!

Northern Peru Sample Itinerary: How To Plan Your Adventure

stone circular buildings

Northern Peru is the most difficult part of the country for crafting an itinerary. This region is huge (Peru is at its widest in its northern part), and you can’t easily access major cities. So it took some creativity to create this 10-day Northern Peru sample itinerary.

This itinerary can be used to mix-and-match with others. It’s a great way to see the jungle, mountains, and coast of Northern Peru. And you won’t feel you’re inside a bus the whole time. Finally, it’s perfect if you want to visit nearby Ecuador afterwards.

If you have more than 10 days, then check out additional options for Mancora, Iquitos, and Chachapoyas, too!

Don’t Miss The Top Experiences

Days 1-3: The Waters & Jungle of Tarapoto

Hop on the 1 hour, 20 minute flight from Lima to the jungle town of Tarapoto. Northern Peru is gigantic. So it’s hard to fit in a jungle trip if you just have 10 days. Because of this Tarapoto is an excellent option. It offers great adventure experiences and is relatively close to your next stop.

top experiences in tarapoto

  • Partying hard during happy hour at the Street of Stones (Calle de las Piedras)
  • Rafting the Mayo River
  • Having your choice of hikes to waterfalls: Huacamaillo (12 km/7.5 miles from town); Ahuashiyacu (15 km/9.3 miles out); Pucayaquillo (22 km/13.7 miles); or Carpishuyacu (34 km/21 miles).
  • Hiking the Alto Shilcayo route in the Cordillera Escalera Regional Conservation Area. This starts only 600 meters (1,969 feet) from the town’s main plaza
  • Checking out the medieval style castle of Lamas.

where to stay in tarapoto

To get a better appreciation of the jungle, check out Cordillera Escalera Ecolodge.

Days 4-7: Chacha Chillin’

Northern Peru sample itinerary: restored building at Kuelap
Restored building at Kuelap

Catch a van or bus (they start leaving at 6:30AM) to arrive to Chachapoyas early afternoon. “Chacha” is a charming, walkable, cobblestoned town. It’s surrounded by excellent history and adventure opportunities.

Close to Chacha are Peru’s tallest waterfalls and pre-Incan cities located above the clouds (Chachapoyas translates to “warriors of the clouds”). Also there are famous, mysterious mummies. And that’s all just the start.

The city is 2,335 meters above sea level (7,661). So I recommend taking it easy on your first day.

top experiences in chachapoyas

  • Day hike to some of the highest falls in Peru, Gocta or Yumbilla
  • Take the cable car to the Chachapoyas’ culture’s main citadel, Kuelap
  • Hike to the mysterious sarcophagi of Karajia
  • Visit the museum and mummies of Leymebamba
  • Walk around the canyon of Huanca next door to Chachapoyas
  • Eat a classic local snack from the market- popcorn with ants!
  • Take the Coffee Route (Ruta de Café) and explore specialty coffee shops in town
Sarcophagi of Karajia
entrance to cafe in Chachapoyas, peru
A delicious stop along Chachapoyas’ Coffee Route!
Northern Peru sample itinerary: pretty girl holding fruit at a market.
There are a TON of exotic fruits to try in Chacha and Tarapoto

where to chill in chacha

When we visited Chachapoyas we loved Casa Hospedaje Teresita. That’s because the location was great, the rooms were comfy, and the people were warm.

Days 8-9: Sipán & Surf in Chiclayo

4 palm trees with 2 bicycles and a boat and ocean in background. Pimentel beach, peru

Finish your trip enjoying delicious seafood, popular beaches, and archaeological wonders! If you can, take the night bus from Chachapoyas to save a day of travel.

top experiences in chiclayo

  • Surfing at the beaches of Pimentel and Puerto Eten
  • Exploring the Valley of Pyramids at Túcume
  • Visiting one of the top-ranked museums in the world to see the Señor de Sipan
  • Eating, souvenir shopping, and seeing a cultural show at nearby Monsefú
Puerto Eten
Tomb at the Señor de Sipan musem

where to stay in chiclayo

Most of the options in Chiclayo are standard hotels. I found well-run ecolodges hard to find. So we stayed at Casa Andina. It has a pool and an UNBEATABLE Peruvian breakfast buffet.

Day 10: Back to Lima

Fly or bus to Lima. Alternatively, take a bus or plane to the hotspot of Máncora or Cuenca, Ecuador. (See “add ons: if you have more time” below)

Northern Peru Sample Itinerary Add-ons: If You Have More Time

Reed boats next to the ocean at sunset with pier in background. Huanchaco, Peru.
Local have used these reed boats at Huanchaco for centuries! They fish and surf with these “caballitos de totora”. And you’ll spot these at the beaches near Chiclayo, too.

There are some great adventure options near each of these locations if you have a few extra days. For this reason, add one of these to your trip if you have more time:

Iquitos: Boat it Up

Instead of flying to Tarapoto, boat to Iquitos from Pucallpa. Spend some days in the world’s largest non-road accessible city. Also check out the pink dolphins and Amazonian rivers at Pacaya Samiria National Reserve.

To arrive to Tarapoto from Iquitos take a 12 hr ferry from Nauta to Yurimaguas. From Yurimaguas, Tarapoto is a 2-3 hour car ride.

Condor Lake: Combine Cool & Creepy Near Chachapoyas

Take a multiday hike from Chachapoyas. The Laguna de los Condores trek takes you to tombs abandoned over 500 years ago. This hike is based around a beautiful lake. And you’ll explore 18 ancient gravesites.

Máncora Option

Take the 5hr bus ride from Chiclayo to Mancora or nearby beaches. Máncora is a party and surf capital in the Northern coast. Check out quieter spots just north or south of the town if party towns aren’t your vibe.

Beach It Up!

If you return to Lima from Chiclayo, break up the 14.5 hour bus ride with multiple stops along the coast. Consider Huanchaco (get off at Trujillo, a 15 minute taxi ride away) or Casma. Just outside of Lima are the amazing beaches and hot springs of Norte Chico, too.

Best Time to Visit Northern Peru

Try to avoid the rainy season from November through April. Especially avoid the rainiest months, January and February. Transportation can be dangerous, and towns in general shut down in these months.

Since the coast is a desert, this only applies to the Andes and jungle.

Conclusion

I hope this Northern Peru sample itinerary helps you in trip planning!

Message me at GringoInca@gmail.com if you have questions.

Peru Sample Itinerary: The Ultimate Off-The Beaten Path Adventure

man on the hike to the mountain Apu Pariacaca
The hike to Pariacaca from Tanta (Yauyos, Lima Department)

Tourists to Peru often wonder if the regions outside of Machu Picchu and Cusco are worth visiting. As someone who once lived far off the Gringo Trail, my answer to this is OF COURSE! There are countless destinations that offer memorable adventures in this incredibly diverse, colorful country. For off the beaten path adventures -after much discussion- we chose the Central region for a Peru sample itinerary.

The region of Central Peru is especially overlooked by international tourists. But here you can zipline in the jungle, hike ancient Incan trails, and whitewater raft for the fraction of the cost in other areas. Just like the North and South, Central Peru is divided by coast, mountains, and jungle. And this itinerary takes you to all three.

Feel free to use this sample itinerary for a trip to Central Peru. Or, mix-and-match experiences; pick one of the destinations below and add it to an itinerary for Cusco and Machu Picchu.

Sample Itinerary: Central Peru

Day 1- Play, Eat & Learn Lima

Lima is overcast and grey 8 months of the year. But being home to 1/3 of Peru’s population, the city offers museums, surfboard and bike rentals, and a world-class gastronomy. Get your ceviche on, check out Museo Larco to learn about Peru’s long history, and walk around the Bohemian Barranco neighborhood.

At night take a fully-reclining seat on a buscama to Oxapampa. This trip will take 10 hours.

Where to stay

Consider Kaminu Backpackers in Barranco. They follow sustainable water practices (Lima’s located in a giant desert) and offer bike rentals. For hotels, I like Casa Andina in Miraflores.

Top experiences in lima

  • Surfing the costa verde
  • Renting a bike on the malecon (boardwalk) in Miraflores
  • Parasailing in Miraflores
  • Visiting the creepy catacombs at San Francisco Cathedral
  • Getting your history on at Museo Larco
  • Eating the local fruits and dishes at Mercado Surquillo in Miraflores
  • Ceviche…. always ceviche
woman holding surfboard

Day 2-4: Extreme Sports in The Central Jungle

Peru sample itinerary: man rappelling down waterfalls in Oxapampa, Peru

Now you’re in the Central Jungle. This area is known for the German settlements of Pozuzo and Oxapampa. It’s my favorite area in Peru; the weather is warm, the architecture Austrian, and the coffee and beer local and tasty. The weather is warm but not hot, and it gets slightly chilly at night.

clouds parting in central jungle of peru

Day 2: Stay a night at Ulcumano Ecolodge, a beautiful ecolodge on the outskirts of Oxapampa. Take advantage of the ziplines, rappelling, and hiking opportunities.

peru sample itinerary: photo of two hammocks at Ulcumano Ecolodge

Day3: Check out Rio Tigre waterfall near Oxapampa. Take a taxi ride and make the short hike and get soaked under the falls. After lunch take a combi mini-bus to Yanachaga Chemillen National Park. You can take a guided hike (free) and finish searching for Peru’s national bird, the Cock of the Rock. Hundreds of them come out at 4pm every day!

The park rangers can also show you where to camp. You’ll need your own tent, however. Otherwise catch the next combi back to Oxapampa or continue on to the old German settlement of Pozuzo for the night.

cock of the rock bird
Cock of the Rock. Yup, it’s a real, actual name

Day 4: Take time to check out the German architecture in the plaza. If you’re looking for something to do, there is a cave near Oxapampa called Tunqui which makes for a good short adventure. After lunch head to Huancayo, a 6 hour trip.

Where to stay

I recommend Carolina Egg Gesthuas in Oxapampa. The wooden cabins are big and comfy, and they have a pool and bonfire area.

Top Experiences in the Central Jungle

  • Outdoor activities at Ulcumano ecolodge
  • Hiking to the area’s waterfalls
  • Hiking, camping & birdwatching at Yanachaga Chemillen National Park
  • Drinking German beer and food at Dorcher brewery
  • Trying the self-proclaimed “best coffee in world” from nearby Villa Rica

Day 5: Rest Up In Huancayo

outside Park of Identity in Huancayo

Spend day 5 in Huancayo. Huancayo is a bustling, authentically Andean city and the jumping-off point to the North Yauyos-Cochas Landscape Reserve. Take it easy today. You’ll probably need to adjust to the altitude (10,692 feet or 3,259 meters). So, have a coca tea and avoid alcohol and caffeine.

Huancayo does provide some adventure options. A day hike to the snowcapped Huaytapallana mountain is the most popular option. The city is also famous for its artisans and is the region’s cultural capital. Definitely go to an artisan market for souvenirs.

Where to stay

Since you’re only in Huancayo to pass through, stay at a convenient place downtown like Junco y Capuli.

top experiences in huancayo

  • View the city and Mantaro Valley at Cerro de la Libertad
  • Souvenir shopping at the artesian collective next to the main plaza
  • Learning about the Peruvian internal conflict at the art museum Yalpana Wasi
  • Visiting Parque de la Identidad (Wanka Identity Park). This small park pays tribute to local culture with stone structures, statues and native flora. Buy a chicha drink from the woman at the front door!

Days 6-8 YOLO in Yauyos!

mountain landscape in Yauyos, Peru
Sunset from Vitis, Yauyos province- my old home :)

Day 6: If you’re going to make a sample itinerary for Peru based on off-the-beaten path areas, the beautiful region of Yauyos must be considered!

Catch an early morning combi mini bus or shared taxi (collectivo) to the Nor-Yauyos Cochas Landscape Reserve. Here the weather will be cold at night and warm in the afternoon, much like Huancayo. Go to the centrally-located town of Alis to start your day.

You can stay at a local bed and breakfast-type of location (hospedaje) and make day trips to other villages. Or, you can spend the night at the other towns (which is easier). Either way, you have a few options:

Laraos

  • Take a bus or shared taxi to Laraos. Laraos has UNESCO world heritage-listed terraces, a famous disappearing lake, and impressive archaeological sites.

Miraflores

  • Take a bus or shared taxi to Miraflores. There you can hike for a couple of hours alongside a mountain to the old town of Miraflores, abandoned in 1912. The Central Mountain Range of Peru runs through Miraflores. So you’ll get even more excellent views of snowcapped peaks. You can hike down from the town to catch a car to Huancaya.

Huancaya

  • Take a bus or shared taxi to Huancaya. Huancaya is the most popular destination in the Reserve because of its blue cascades and turquoise lakes. Next door, Vitis offers a 3-hr hike to a pre-Incan site called Cochaswasi. Further past Huancaya (about 2 hours in car) is the village of Vilca, which has more lakes and an impressive Quenual forest. The trees are straight out of a fairy tale. You can camp in Huancaya next to the waterfalls or book a room at a locally-run spot like Hostal Huancaya.
cascades of Huancaya peru
Cascades in Huancaya

Days 7 & 8: Spend two days in the destination of choice or split your time among multiples places.

Day 9 & 10: Raft & Bike in Lunahuaná

people whitewater rafting

Day 9: Take one of the buses or shared cars that leave every morning for Lima. But, instead of getting off at the end of the line, stop at the weekend warrior spot of Lunahuaná. Here you can whitewater raft, mountain bike, and taste local wines and Pisco.

Lunahuaná is about 5 hours from the center of the Reserve downhill, so the weather is dry and warm. Lima is only 3 hours away.

Where To Stay in Lunahuaná

Hotel Quilla Wasi is reasonably priced and offers services that you’ll appreciate after being on the road for so long (HELLO, laundry service!!!)

Day 10: Finish up any activity you want to try in Lunahuaná, then take a shared car or bus to Lima.

If You Have More Time

  • Take a shared car or bus from Oxapampa to Villa Rica for a coffee tour, in arguably Peru’s best coffee town.
  • Hike in the Forest of Love (Bosque de Amor) in Vilca. This is 2 hours from Huancaya.
  • Further on from Vilca, visit the village of Tanta. The village provides guide and porters for a 2-day trek to the snow-capped mountain deity (Apu in Quechua) named Pariacaca. You’ll be on an ancient Incan path the entire time- a true Inca Trail.
  • Before ending your trip in Lima, get off the bus from Lunahuaná at the surfing hotspot Punta Hermosa. Here you can rent a board to catch some waves, or just enjoy the delicious seafood!

Best Time to Go to Central Peru

Try to avoid the rainy season from November through April. Especially avoid the rainiest months, January and February. Transportation can be dangerous, and towns in general shut down in these months. Of course, since the coast is a desert, this only applies to the Andes and jungle.

Conclusion

I hope this sample itinerary for Peru helps you in planning your adventure. Do you have questions or comments? Email us at GringoInca@gmail.com or comment below. Gracias!

Inca Trail Alternative: The Ultimate Hike

Men whitewater rafting
Photo by Rune Haugseng on Unsplash

The Adventurer’s #1 Inca Trail Alternative

Is it possible to find a one-size-fits-all solution to the problem of balancing time and budget limits with a thirst for adventure? This is especially tough in places like Cusco, which are already expensive without additional add-ons. But the Extreme Inca Tour is an Inca Trail alternative that might solve the problem for thrill-seekers.

You can get in your adventure activities (hiking, whitewater rafting, mountain biking, and ziplining) and still visit Machu Picchu. And the cost is around average for a good tour service to Machu Picchu.

Why The Extreme Inca Tour?

I discovered Cachi Life while searching for podcasts on visiting Peru. Their Peru Travel Podcast is a great resource for anyone visiting Cusco or Machu Picchu.

Cachi Life emphasizes working directly with local people for tourism services. This is important to me, since some tour providers ignore local communities and their needs (even while taking advantage of the natural and cultural richness of those communities!).

Cachi gives the traveler a fuller experience since locals are at the forefront of the company. Plus, the company pays fair wages (which is not always the case in Peru, sadly). They also work directly with local Quechua villages in implementing community projects.

The 4 Days Broken Down

Like the original Inca Trail, this tour is 4 days and 3 nights. However the Extreme Inca Tour goes the “back way” to Machu Picchu via Santa Theresa. On the way you’ll mountain bike, whitewater raft, hike, and zipline.

What’s Included

  • English-speaking guide
  • Ticket for Machu Picchu
  • Mountain Bike + Safety Gear
  • Lodging (hotels)
  • Meals
  • Wifi
  • Transportation to and from hotels
  • Return train ticket

What’s Not Included

For these you have to pay more:

  • Tips for the guide, porters and cooks
  • Huaynu Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain
  • Zipline option
  • Whitewater Rafting option
  • Hot Springs in Santa Theresa
clouds with mountains

Day 1: Bike & Raft to the Jungle

On Day 1 the tour includes mountain biking and whitewater rafting. Cachi picks you up at the hotel, from which it’s 3-4 hours to the Abra Malaga Pass. Then you’ll descend over 3,000 feet (900 meters) in an adrenaline-packed distance of only 60km (37 miles). You’ll end at Santa Maria.

After lunch you have the option of taking a 2-hour whitewater rafting trip. The rapids are class III-IV. Since the biking won’t involve much pedaling, this is your chance to really get the blood flowing in warm, tropical Santa Maria.

Day 2: Hike with Monkeys & Soak in Springs

Of course, any route to Machu Picchu has to include hiking! Trek through jungle where you can spot monkeys, parrots, and try local coca and chocolate. The distance is 15km (9.3 miles). In Santa Theresa you can soak off in the hot springs to finish the day (always recommended :) ).

Day 3: Zipline!!!!

This starts with 6 ziplines up to 150 meters (492 feet!) in the air! Then you’ll hike 2.5 hours to Hydroelectrica for lunch. From there it’s a 2 hour hike next to the train tracks to Aguas Calientes.

Day 4: Machu Picchu

You have to option to get up early for Machu Picchu. I really recommend this, because you can witness sunrise at the Sun Gate. This is described as a peak, even spiritual, moment for many visitors. The Extreme Inca Tour includes a 2-3 hour guided tour of Machu Picchu. Definitely consider purchasing a ticket for Huaynu Picchu, but make sure you have enough time to catch the train to Cusco.

Things I Don’t Like

There are a couple of things I don’t like about this tour, though. Every night you are in a hotel. Although that can be nice, it’s hard to say you did an “extreme” alternative to the Inca Trail and didn’t sleep under the stars for one night!

Maybe it’s the secret hippie in me, but I like the idea of not needing a hot shower or a bed for a few days. Especially if the story ends at Machu Picchu.

Of course, the views and towns you see on this experience are still amazing and beautiful. The Andes are always fascinating no matter where you sleep.

Also, the whitewater rafting and zipline are optional. So you’ll have to pay more to do these. But, the price is still within normal range for a quality Inca Trail tour, even with these additional costs.

Next Steps

Man jumping with mountains and river in background. At Machu Picchu Mountain
Me literally taking the leap at Machu Picchu Mountain (and terrifying my mother)

So if you’re looking for some adventure in Peru, consider the Extreme Inca Tour. You’ll have an unforgettable experience and visit the world wonder of Machu Picchu. The price is good too, considering the multiple activities and tickets involved (Machu Picchu and the train back to Cusco).

Plus, most alternatives to the Inca Trail don’t include a ticket to Machu Picchu. However, this one will have you at the Sun Gate on the sunrise of Day 4. That is an enviable option!

view of Machu Picchu with cloud, zigzag roads, stone structures and mountains, from Huaynu Picchu

This is also a great choice if you want to do the Inca Trail but aren’t crazy about camping outside for 4 days straight. Finally, Cachi has an excellent reputation, and you’ll be going with a company that prioritizes ethical tourism.

If you’re looking to get dirty and camp under the stars on the way to Machu Picchu, consider another Inca Trail alternative. In fact, Cachi has a regular Inca Trail tour, plus other options like Salkantay and Choquequirao. But if you want a good deal for a multi adventure experience, culminating at Machu Picchu, you can’t beat this tour in price and quality.

Still interested? Here’s a link to read more or make a reservation on the Extreme Inca Tour:

Let me know if you ended up reserving the Extreme Inca tour or something else in the comment section below!