Hike Huayhuash: Our Guide to Peru’s Most Beautiful Trek

Hike Huayhuash and get away from it all. Man in red coat hiking green mountain with brown mountain in background.
Find it all at Peru’s best overlooked trek… Huayhuash!

Blue, green, and turquoise lakes. Icy peaks, flowing rivers, and glaciers. And often not a human in sight. This is your experience if you hike the globally-recognized Huayhuash.

What is Huayhuash?

Huayhuash is a private conservation area managed by local communities. It’s recognized as one of the best hikes in the world. And with only 5-7,000 visitors a year, it’s much less crowded than the Inca Trail (which sees 500 people a day!).

Huayhuash is already well-known in trekking circles, and mountain biking is available now, too.

I think the best part of Huayhuash is that you can create your own adventure. Itineraries vary from three to eighteen days. They are generally moderate to moderately strenuous, so you don’t have to be an expert mountaineer to enjoy Huayhaush.

The crazy thing is, the Huayhuash mountain chain is only 30km (19 miles) long. Yet it includes 3 departments in Peru, campsites at 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level, hot springs, turquoise lakes, glaciers, and the country’s second tallest mountain.

Why Hike Huayhuash?

Unlike most hikes in the Andes, this landscape here is more open. Because of that you’ll get amazing views of the mountain chain as you walk and rest at campsites. That’s also why Huayhuash is considered one of the world’s best hikes. Highlights include the three lakes, all different colors, and Peru’s second tallest mountain, Yerupaja. Yerupaja is 6,635 meters (21,800 feet) tall.

The movie Touching the Void (based on a true story) takes place in Huayhuash, too. You’ll get up close with the mountain that Joe Simpson and Simon Yates scaled, Siula Grande.

Plus if you hike Huayhuash you’ll directly contribute to local communities who manage the campsites. And you’ll see cool wildlife like llamas, alpacas, viscachas, Andean foxes, and condors.

Last but not least, this hike is more affordable than its more famous competition in Southern Peru.

But Huayhuash is just as good… perhaps better.

Itineraries in Huayhuash

Again, Huayhaush really is a create-your-own-adventure, which is unique for a hike that’s so highly regarded. There are options for all types of budgets and expectations.

To do the WHOLE hike, there are 15-18 day itineraries. But more visitors take a 9-10 day option or the “mini” 7-day hike. Each of these includes the main attractions of the full 18-day hike. Finally, consider a 3-day hike if you’re short on time, funds, or aren’t sure about a longer trek.

Almost all of these start in Llamac in Ancash department and include the view of three lakes. Campsites are usually at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level.

Most Common Itineraries for Huayhuash

  • 3 days: 15-20 km (9-12 miles). You’ll see a few of the major spots, all in the department of Ancash.
  • 7 days: This is the “mini” version and is considered the minimum amount of time to see most of Huayhuash, and it changes depending on visitor preference.
  • 10 days: Generally 110-115 km (about 70 miles); check out the sample itinerary below for more details!
  • 15-18 days: This is the full Huayhuash hike and the only way to see everything.
  • NOTE: All of these include one or two passes at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) a day and start in the village of Llamac in Ancash

Alternative Hiking Options for Huayhuash

Some hikes start in the thermal baths in the department of Lima and include the Raura mountain range, which is adjacent to Huayhuash. A few tour companies offer archaeology-based hikes, and several center on mountain climbing.

9-Day Example Itinerary

The most common itinerary for Huayhuash is 9-11 days. That’s because you see all the “big” attractions and aren’t going to be rushed. This is a moderately strenuous trek which includes several 8-9 hour long hikes.

Day 1

You start off in Huaraz (Ancash’s hiking capital and 8 hours from Lima). From there it’s a 2 hour ride to Chiquian, and from there 1 more hour to Llamac.

Llamac is where trek begins.

From Llamac it’s a forty minute walk to Pocpa, and a further 1.5 hours to the campsite. Another option is to continue hiking uphill to Cuartelhuain for the night.

Day 2

Start getting used to early mornings! At 7 am start the 2 hr uphill walk to Cacananpunta Pass, located at 4,750 meters or 15,580 feet above sea level. By lunchtime the hiking gets easier and you camp at Mitucocha.

Mitucocha is next to a river and you’ll chill with views of snowcapped mountains from the green valley.

Hike Huayhuash- river with rocks with green shore and snowcaps in background.
Campsite at Mitucocha.

Day 3

This is another 5 hour day of hiking. Today the tallest point is Yanapunta Pass, at 4,650 meters, or 15,260 feet. If you haven’t started, consider coca tea for the altitude.

You end up at Carhuacocha lake to camp for the night.

Yanapunta pass on Huayhuash Hike. People walking on yellow mountain with snowcaps in distance.
Yanapunta Pass. You get an idea of how massive the landscape is by the people in the middle.

Day 4

It’s the first big day! That’s because you’ll walk for 8 hours, see the 3 lakes, and go over Siula Pass, next to the infamous Siula Grande.

Siula Pass is the tallest pass of the hike so far at 4,785 meters (15,700 feet). From there you’ll get an awesome view of the three lakes and mountain range behind them.

Afterwards it’s all downhill to the Huayhuash campsite.

Suila Pass.

Day 5

This is a day of hiking for 5 hours to Viconga, where you can soak in hot springs. In case it’s not obvious, NEVER pass up a chance to soak in hot springs during a long, cold hike!

You’ll also go over Portachuelo Pass, which is about the same height as Siula, and end up at an altitude of 4,350 meters (17,560 feet) to camp for the night.

Nigh sky with starts and lit up tents below.
Viconga Campsite at night.

Day 6

By now you might be used to getting up at 7am and walking for hours. Which is exactly what you’ll do today. The total hiking time today is about 8 hours.

You’ll summit Cuyoc Pass at 5,000 meters (16,400 feet). From there you’ll view the whole Huayllapa valley and head on down to the campsite. If you have energy go to the Antonio lookout. From there you can view the entire mountain chain.

Day 7

For three hours you’ll walk to the town of Huayllapa, the first place you can buy limited food and supplies.

Rest up, make some phone calls, or just chill in town, because afterwards it’s 4-5 hours of slogging uphill to the campsite at 4,235 meters (13,900 feet).

Day 8

This is the longest day. You’ll hike for roughly 9 hours and go over two passes that are over 4,700 meters (15,400 feet) high. At the second pass, you’ll have lunch and enjoy one last great view of Huayhuash.

Hike Huayhuash- person dwarfed by large brown and yellow mountains and blue sky.
Yaucha Pass

Day 9

Today’s short and 80% of the walk is downhill. You’ll finish at the town of Pacllon. From Pacllon take a bus back to Chiquian and then Huaraz.

Tents on green shore next to river with snowcaps in background.
Campsite on the last night of the Huayhuash hike

Afterwards, rest up, eat, and bask in the knowledge that you did the most awesome hike ever.

Start thinking of how to brag to those people who could’ve come but didn’t :)

How to Prepare

How to Prepare Physically to Hike Huayhuash

Since Huayhuash is a multiday trek and the passes you’ll cross are incredibly high, it’s important to be in good hiking shape and to acclimatize to the altitude.

You can acclimatize in the city of Huaraz and take day hikes from there. First I’d take it easy in Huaraz for a couple of days since the city itself sits at 3,000 meters or 10,000 feet. Before arriving, make sure you’re in good shape and able to take on a long, sometimes strenuous hike. Practice makes perfect, so get in plenty of hiking back home beforehand.

Day Hikes from Huaraz

photo of man sitting on boat surrounded by mountains in Huascaran National park
Huascaran National Park. Photo by Alex Azabache on Pexels.com

The best hikes from Huaraz include:

  • Churup: a glacial lake and a hike that is 6 km (almost 4 miles) total. It’s 3 km up, then 3 km downhill.
  • Huascaran National Park: You can hike for hours among snowpeaks, crystalline lakes, and the famous quenual tree forest in this beautiful park.
  • Lake 69: Just like Churup, this is a completely uphill climb to a glacial lake. But the trek for Lake 69 is twice as long at 12 km (7.5 miles).
  • Paron: This lake is the largest in the Cordillera Blanca mountain chain and generally less visited than Lake 69 and Churup. The hike is 20 km (12 1/5 miles) and you may want to spend the night in nearby Caraz to get an early start.
  • Pastoruri: Pastoruri may be the easiest glacier to visit ever! You’ll spend a few hours on a bus to take the hike, which lasts about an hour.
  • Rajucolta: A 7-km (4.3 miles) hike to a beautiful glacial lake
  • Wilcacocha: 7.6 km or 4.7 miles is all you need to find yet another amazing glacial lake near Huaraz!

Huaraz is a cool town with lots of backpackers and hikers. So it’s easy to find a guide, information on how to arrive to trails, and hiking buddies.

Always stay well-hydrated at these altitudes. Avoid alcohol and caffeine initially, and consider an over-the-counter medicine to avoid altitude sickness.

Finally if you want to try a shorter multi-day hike to prepare for Huayhuash I recommend Santa Cruz, yet another hike recognized as one of the best in the world!

Glacier with person approaching. Pastoruri
Pastoruri glacier. Photo by Willian Justen de Vasconcellos on Unsplash

How to Prepare Mentally for Huayhuash

Whether you think you can or can’t, you’re probably right (Henry Ford).

Remember it’s tents outside every night when you hike Huayhuash. There are no showers and toilets are waterless. So, it’s, ahem, rustic.

If you’ve prepped enough physically, you’ll know. And just knowing may be enough. Of course, who you go with is crucial. When the air is thin, the weather cold, and my legs tired, I always want the most positive people around me.

Finally, just enjoy the hike. It’s not a race, and instead of rushing through and tiring out on Day 4, take your time and set a good pace.

How to Book Huayhuash

Responsible Tourism Professionals

Our friends, Hombres y Montañas (Men and Mountains) have worked in Huayhuash for generations. They are a family company and are professionals in responsible tourism.

Connect with them on Facebook to find out more and make a reservation.

Best time of the Year to Hike Huayhuash

May to September is the best time to hike Huayhuash because the rainy season has ended by about mid-May. The best time to go is late May and June. The vegetation will still be green and it doesn’t get as cold at night as in July or August, which are also the most popular months for trekking in the area.

Avoid traveling in the rainy season from November-April, when landslides are common and accommodations can be hard to find.

Where to Stay & Eat in Huaraz

The backpacker classic in Huaraz is Churup.

Cafe Andino and California Cafe are spots to check out for relaxing with a good book and coffee or coca tea.

There are lots of options for Peruvian food and nightlife, with 13 Buhos perhaps the best spot to grab a drink.

What to bring

The Essentials

Obviously, trekking equipment (and climbing gear if that’s your thing). For a hike similar to the one above, you should have this equipment at a minimum:

  • Backpack with water cover
  • Rain poncho, especially if it’s not June-September
  • Rainproof tent
  • Sleeping bag
  • Waterproof hiking shoes or boots
  • 2 pairs of hiking pants
  • A couple of short sleeved shirts (the weather can get surprisingly warm)
  • 2 long sleeved shirts
  • 1 set of pajamas
  • A bathing suit for Viconga and its hot springs
  • Down jacket
  • Sandals to let your feet breathe when not hiking
  • Sunglasses
  • Quick dry travel towel
  • Head lamp
  • Toiletries, including sunscreen and hand sanitizer
  • Medicine kit
  • Straw filter or similar products
  • Travel medical isurance
  • Snacks! Coca leaves are great for altitude too
  • A GPS if going alone

Nice-To-Haves

You may want to consider these, depending on your preference and how much you want to bring.

  • Solar charger for smartphone
  • Extra camera batteries
  • Trekking poles
  • Sleeping pad
  • Thermos
  • Emergency oxygen

TIPS: It’s common to rent equipment in Huaraz, or to even buy used equipment. Most agencies provide some or most of the equipment written above.

Weather

Sunset over lake and snowcapped mountains. Hike Huayhuash
Huayhuash in the morning. Photo by David Torres on Unsplash

The temperature goes down to 0-2 C (32-36 F) at night and is coldest in July. But it goes up to 20C (68F), even at high altitudes, at daytime.

Expect lighter rainstorms in May and Oct. From June through September, known as “Andean summer”, you can get clear blue skies all day, every day.

Huaraz gets up to 20C (68F) during the day and will go down to 5-6C (40’s F) at night.

How to Get There

Buses leave regularly from Lima to Huaraz all day. The trip takes 8 hours. Huaraz has an airport but flights are not always regular.

From the north, buses from Trujillo and Chiclayo go to Huaraz, too.

Cost

The cost of hiking Huayhuash is going to depend on a lot of factors, especially number of days and what’s included. Depending on price, agencies may provide 3 square meals a day, a tent, sleeping bag, a team to carry supplies, cooks, entrance to the communities’ campsites, and transportation.

Having said that huge caveat, you can expect to more or less pay these amounts for Huayhuash:

  • 3-day tour: $300
  • 9-11 days: $500-650
  • 15-18 days: Up to $1,400
  • Personalized 152km (95 mile) hike: $4,000

If going alone, make sure you pay each community for using the trail and campsites. Remember that only ONE community (Huayllapa) has shops, so you’re not restocking daily.

And expect to pay in cash.

These communities provide the following campsites:

  • Huayllapa: Viconga, Guanacpatayand Huatiaq
  • Llámac: Cuartewain and Jahuacocha 
  • Pacllon: Qashpapampa and Jahuacocha 
  • Pocpa: Pocpa
  • Queropalca: Mitucocha and Carhuacocha
  • Quisuarcancha: Carhuacocha
  • Siula Grande: Base camp
  • Tupac Amaru: Huayhuash 
  • Uramaza: Viconga lake and hot springs  :)

Conclusion

Huayhuash is among the best hikes in the world, and it’s way less crowded than Peru’s most famous hike, the Inca Trail.

Definitely consider it if adventure is in your blood. Just make sure to acclimatize to the altitude and to prepare your body first.

Again, the mountain chain’s preservation depends on local communities, so be sure to leave no trace and respect the people and wildlife. To get the most out of your trip and hike Huayhuash, check out our partners at Hombres y Montañas Huayhuash (Facebook). These guys are responsible tourism professionals who focus on adventure tourism in Ancash.

Unless otherwise noted, all photos by our friend Erick Bernabe from Hombres y Montañas. Muchas gracias, Erick!!

Surfing in Mancora

woman surfing in Mancora.

Surfing Party Waves in Mancora

Years ago, the parties were fewer and the surfing in Mancora drew in most visitors. Today it’s a mini-mecca for backpackers in addition to beach lovers. There are cafes, international restaurants (few places in Peru have Thai food), and also tried-and-true surf spots. Some might say the current Mancora is kitsch; others say it just has more flavor now

If you take the tediously long busride from Lima to Peru’s northern coast, you’ll see the desert stubbornly but surely give way to palms and other tropical trees. Step off the bus at any of the stops and you’ll feel the warmth of the nearly equatorial sun brighten your senses. The grey of Lima dissipates from memory. You’ll wonder why you were crazy enough to be on a bus for 20+ hours. And you’ll second-guess if the relatively few dollars saved was worth it. 

But all that melts away when you FINALLY get to the beaches such as Mancora. Here you can surf and dance away the stress from being inside that closed box on wheels. The excellent surfing opportunities, endless parties, and perfect sunsets make this part of Peru unique. 

Hang 10! (or even 11)- What to Do in Mancora

Obviously, surfing is the name of the game in Mancora. Some of the best spots in the country are in & around town. You don’t need a wetsuit, unlike the beaches near Lima. Rentals are easy to find as well.

For nearby surf spots, check out Cabo Blanco, Lobitos, Los Organos and Zorritos. Cabo Blanco is said to have the best left-breaking curve in the world. Los Organos is unique in that it has white sand and is a popular fishing spot, too. Lobitos is also famous for its tubes, and is popular for windsurfing too. And the surfer’s paradise of Zorritos is the northernmost, so its waters are the warmest. All of these are within an hour’s drive of Mancora. 

Check out the town of Fernandez if you’re itching for a hike. The town’s dry forest and waterfall are popular attractions. 

There are other water activities in Mancora such as kitesurfing and banana boats, too. At sunset it’s popular to take a horse ride along the shore. Last but not  least, the body surfing is ideal.

horses and straw roofs on Peruvian beach.By Theodore Scott from Houston, USA - P1020365, CC BY 2.0, //commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=4788011

How to Get There

The best way to get to Mancora is to steadily make your way up the coast, stopping at beaches like Huancacho in La Libertad to break up the journey. Otherwise it’s a 21-hour bus ride from Lima, and it costs S/ 150-200 for a good seat that reclines all the way. Trust me, you do not want to skimp on the seat.

Mancora is also 8 hours from Guayaquil, Ecuador and 4 from the department capital, Piura. Oltursa and Cruz del Sur provide these bus routes. But If you’re low on time, the most efficient route is to fly to Piura from Lima. The flight takes less than 2 hours.

DestinationTrip Length (Hours)Cost (Soles)
Guayaquil7-8S/ 70-80
Lima21-22S/ 200
Piura4S/ 30-80
sunset over a pier with boats and palm trees in Mancora

Where Should You Stay?

There are lots of party hostels and bungalows in Mancora, at various price ranges. The classic backpacker stop, Loki del Mar, is beach-adjacent with its own pool and bar. The bar is great, the party doesn’t stop, and the crowd is active and lively.

If you want a more relaxed vibe, there’s Psygon surf camp, which has a good reputation.

You should reserve in advance, since Mancora is the most popular beach destination in Peru.

The Final Say If You Go Surfing In Mancora

Surfers approaching the waters on a sunny beach day in Northern Peru

Mancora is warm, dry, and sunny year-round. The exception is during El Nino years, when torrential rains can drench the northern Peruvian coast from April to October.

Mancora attracts a lot of tourists, and unfortunately, this can mean pickpockets too. For this reason I recommend being mindful of one’s belongings, especially in large crowds or when alcohol is involved. 

Mancora is located in the department of Piura, which claims to have the best ceviche in all of Peru. I can verify that they deserve this claim. So definitely have a great ceviche mixto with a beer to pass an early afternoon! 

Of course, bring what you normally would for a wet, sunny adventure. At least have a swimsuit and sunblock.

Ready to Make An Itinerary?

You can make Máncora part of your trip to Northern Peru. If that interests you, here’s a link to our sample itinerary for Northern Peru.

Most importantly, have fun and enjoy the sun!!