First State National Historic Park: Travel Anecdote

The shadows already stretched long over the orange leaves covering the ground on a most quintessential autumn afternoon. They alternated with bright sun beams, which illuminated giant, reaching oaks and their few remaining brown leaves. Our walk started with a deceptively difficult uphill trudge. The lack of other people was evidence that either this park is unknown by outdoor enthusiasts, or that the region was already hibernating for the winter.

Or both.

Dog!

The “First State” is also the Last State. As in, the last state to be included in the National Parks Service. First State National Historic Park comprises of six sites in Delaware. These are mostly buildings that were important during the lead-up to and time of the American Revolution.

The Park also has four trails. These short hikes take you over rolling fields, farmland, creeks, and through forests in the Brandywine Valley. The trails are free to visit, but not always well-marked. In fact, we only made it back to our car before dark because of great location information from the AllTrails app!

A vigilant bald eagle

I don’t have a story or article to write about First State National Historic Park. But it is a spectacular spot. We had a wonderful time walking around a horse farm, a vineyard, and then through some of the most untouched wooded areas in the region. I simply didn’t go with an angle or story in mind, and decided to mention it on the site because it was an enjoyable experience.

So if you’re in the Brandywine Valley and looking for a good outdoor activity, consider the trails at First State National Historic Park. Just bring a good GPS with you!

What to do in Wilmington, Delaware- An Outdoor Guide to this Brandywine Valley Hidden Gem!

It’s nudged into an overlooked corner of the Northeastern USA, an unexpectedly unique and fun area for outdoor sports. If you’re looking for a budget-friendly, easy-to-visit spot, Wilmington, Delaware could be it. Despite being a short ride from famous metropolises, the city is often missing from people’s itinerary. So let’s check out the top outdoor activities in Wilmington and make sure you aren’t missing out!

Biking & Hiking

Just a quick search on AllTrails shows dozens of hikes in the Wilmington area. But many of these are too short to be noteworthy. Of the rest, these are my favorite options:

Brandywine Creek State Park:

You wouldn’t be the first to feel that you’ve been transported a couple hundred years back, given the pristine views. This is a pretty park with a small nature center, a disc golf course, and rolling hills that make summer sunsets and autumn afternoons magical.

You’ve got two options here. One, is park near the nature center, where there are about 7-8 miles total of looped trails through forest and fields. That includes a 3.1 mile cross-country course with a killer hill. On the other side of the park, take the Brandywine Trail or Creekside Trail. These are out-and-back trails of 5.8 and 5.2 miles, respectively. As their names suggest, they are mostly adjacent to the water. Just make sure you check conditions first, as the Brandywine and Creekside Trails get muddy .

Brandywine Park-Alapocas Loop:

Brandywine Park is a small city park in Wilmington (not to be confused with Brandywine Creek State Park). For a nice long walk or a pleasant 1-hourish bike ride, you can take the trails and roads that connect Rockford Park with Alapocas Run State Park on to Brandywine Park, then head back. Check out the medieval Italian-inspired tower at Rockford Park and the Delaware Art Museum while you’re at it! You’ll pass through a beautiful neighborhood of huge yards and manors as you approach the museum.

If you drive, park in any of the parks or on the streets near the art museum.

First State National Historic Park

Leaves and forest with field in background

Ironically, the First State was last to be included in the National Parks System. Delaware finally joined the other 49 in 2013. This Park includes monuments and buildings from the time of the country’s founding.

There are also three trails which are lesser known and visited than those at Brandywine Creek State Park (but undeservedly so!). These wind through woods, over creeks, farmland and a vineyard (a regional rarity). The trails are not well marked in all locations, so use All Trails to stay on the right path. My personal favorite is the Beaver Valley Area Loop.

Museums & Gardens

gardens with fountain
Not a Parisian palace, but the view at Nemours Estate!

Just wanna take it easy but still want to be outside? Check out the world-class gardens and museums. You’ll unwittingly spend a couple of hours strolling gardens and mansions, seeing how the other half lived hundreds of years ago.

Our favorites are the native-plant-obsessed Mt. Cuba Botanical Garden and Nemours Estate with its Versailles-like fountains. There is also Winterthur, where the staff go all-out at Christmastime, and the more history-centered Hagley Museum and Library.

Just up the road in Pennsylvania is Longwood Gardens; probably the most famous of the bunch!

Rock Climbing

mountain climber
Scaling the famously treacherous mountains of Delaware ;)

One doesn’t expect rock climbing to be prominent in a state whose tallest point is only 448 feet (137 meters) above sea level. And one would be correct.

But there IS an exception at the refreshingly wooded and hilly Alapocas State Park in the middle of Wilmington. The 90-foot-tall wall faces the Brandywine Creek, is hugged by temperate forest, and is suitable for both bouldering and climbing with a harness.

Delaware State Parks offers an introductory rock climbing course during the spring, summer, and fall. It’s a great option for first-timers and climbers who want to shake some rust off.

All the information you need to get a permit (a requirement!) or to sign up for a course is on the state park website.

Tubing

Several local operators rent tubing equipment. This experience is known for being relaxingly slow, and most people bring booze and snackies to enjoy while doing some wildlife watching. Just remember sunblock and water.

Nearby

woman walking on canopy bridge
Gettin’ our walk on.

About 20 miles south of Wilmington are two fantastically fun zipline and rope courses. The ziplines fly you through the air like a hawk, 50 feet above the water at Lums Pond State Park. Lums Pond also offers kayaks and paddleboards for rent between Memorial Day and Labor Day. And If you want to get your hike (or bike) on, I recommend the 6.4-mile Swamp Forest Trail.

When to Visit Wilmington, Delaware

This is a temperate zone, which means Wilmington experiences all 4 seasons. You can certainly hike and bike all year round, but some of the outdoor gardens and museums are not open in winter. And it goes without saying, but you don’t want to put your butt in a tube down the Brandywine when the temperature is near freezing.

The best time to visit is spring (April-June) and fall (September-November). The mild temperatures are ideal for outdoor sports. Summer is fine too, but you’ll enjoy it more if you start your adventure early and beat the heat and humidity.

The exception: Christmastime in the Brandywine Valley takes on an old-world magic. Places like Winterthur, Hagley, and Longwood are excellent choices for getting in the spirit of the season (see “Museums and Gardens” above). If you come in the winter, book a ticket at one of these and enjoy a hot (spiked!) cocoa after your outdoor fun.

Where to Eat

Check out the Wilmington Riverfront for a good variety of places to eat. The best spot for a cuppa joe is the local chain BrewHaha. My quick-eats fav is El Diablo Burrito. And for your nightcap, the fancy Hotel DuPont downtown has an equally elegant bar with tasty drinks.

What to Pack

This really depends on when you go- it can get below freezing in winter, and can be stupidly humid and hot in summer. Obviously wear clothes that go with the weather forecast.

Always bring a basic first aid kit. Have snackies so nobody gets hangry, and a thermos of coffee or cocoa is most excellent for the cold. If it’s not winter, bug spray and sunblock are key. And of course, bring water (although most parks have water fountains).

How to get to There

fountain with water

Because of its location, you can visit Wilmington pretty easily once on the East Coast. Amtrak trains arrive from Boston, NYC, Philadelphia, Baltimore and Washington, DC regularly. The city is on the I-95 corridor, making it easily accessible by car, too. Finally, the budget airline Avelo connects Delaware’s largest city with several national destinations.

What to Do in Wilmington, Delaware- Conclusion

Wilmington is a short 32-mile drive from Philadelphia, and it boasts the colonial charm and history of the Brandywine Valley. Outdoor sports aren’t the number one game in town, but bucolic settings and some surprising experiences like rock climbing make it a fun spot for lovers of outdoor adventures anyway.

It’s relatively inexpensive compared to other spots in the Northeastern US, making Wilmington a nice budget option for visitors. You can easily make a day trip from Philly (or even Baltimore), too. So if you’re looking for an under-the-radar spot for outdoor fun, maybe it’s time you Wilmington is on your list!

Outdoor Activities to Try in Mission Bay, San Diego

Seaside cliffs and ocean

Sunny San Diego was the last stop of our California road trip, and I couldn’t have been happier than a dung beetle coming across a herd of elephant’s poo. Days earlier, a Californian had opined to me that there are two types of Fun: Type 1, which is long and intense (think days of hiking in Glacier National Park), and Type II, which are short activities (such as an afternoon of surfing followed by a couple of beers). This man also told me that Southern California is the regional capital for Type II Fun. Which inspired me to find out what outdoor activities to try in San Diego.

Now, I’m not here to bash Type I Fun. In fact, we at Gringo Inca LOVE a good multiday hike or a stay at an ecolodge. But sometimes you just want a few solid days of playful fun, unconcerned about altitude sickness or how much time you have until the solar-powered water heater runs out so you can take a shower. Sometimes, you just want to splash in the water and have a beer afterwards. Especially after cramming you and your family into a car for the exquisite, exhausting 500+ mile journey from San Francisco.

Our trip’s exact final destination was San Diego’s Mission Bay neighborhood. This sunny touristy spot is hugged by the rolling Pacific shore on one side and the deep, calm Bay on the other. It attracts families and partying single folk year-round.

And indeed, it proved to be perfect for “Type II” Fun.

Water Sports

The Mission Bay Area is great for water sport experts and newbies alike. This is especially true for activities on the Bay, where the water is calm. But be careful if you aren’t a strong swimmer. Most parts of Mission Bay get up to 12 feet deep.

Kayak: Glide over the saltwater for a couple of hours at sunrise to start the day! You can rent kayaks on an hourly or daily basis, and you’ll run into multiple rental shops just by strolling around. Prices vary; for the best deal find a rental shop that’s not in the Belmont Park section.

Paddleboards: Paddleboarding isn’t new. But it’s definitely the trendy pick right now. There were easily 2-3 paddleboards for every kayak on the water when we visited. Just like with kayaks, you can rent a paddle board and spend hours exploring the Bay’s shores, sailing club, and estuaries.

paddle boards. Outdoor activities to try in San Diego

Sailing: Feeling too fancy for those boards and boats that actually need you to do your own paddling? Harness the power of the wind, my friend! Rent or take lessons at Mission Bay’s Aquatic Center.

Snorkel: I’ve always thought snorkeling was an underrated water sport. For a relatively small price, you can own equipment that helps you explore oceans, bays, and lakes for a lifetime! The place to snorkel in Mission Bay is Mission Point Park, which is in the southwest corner of the neighborhood. Most beach stores sell snorkeling equipment if you don’t bring your own.

Surfing: The long, relatively low waves of the area are famously fantastic for surfing. This is definitely a true San Diego activity. In fact, surfers riding with the sunset behind them is a daily sight. It’s easy to find a board to rent. You can book a lesson at most rental places too.

Land

sand and water with boats

Mission Bay is a man-made area specifically designed for water recreation. Because of that, most land-based activities are your typical, Type II Fun beach activities. Think running alongside the water or renting skates for the boardwalk (skating is big here!). The one team sport that dominates is volleyball. Nets are everywhere, and you can find a pick-up opportunity anytime.

Balboa Park: OK, this is not in the Mission Bay Area but is a short 10-15 minute drive away. The park is 1,200 acres (486 hectares) large and includes miles of trails, cafes, museums, fountains, and even the world-famous Zoo. Definitely worth a half-day visit.

El Cabrillo National Monument!! An exclamation point because we only went on a friend’s tip and ended up returning to explore more on our final day. El Cabrillo is actually pretty small at only 144 acres (58 hectares). Make sure to walk down to the tidal pools for great wildlife watching. From there you can hike the mountainside for a couple of hours. We spotted several huge naval ships and walked beneath noisy flocks of pelicans during our visit

The vegetation at El Cabrillo is very shrubby, so don’t expect much shade. Bring sunblock, a hat and plenty of water!

The 10 minute drive to the Point Loma neighborhood takes you to this national monument. The charge is $20 per car, and the pass is good for 7 days.

birds in sky over water
Hiking and birdwatching at Cabrillo National Monument

EAT

So how are you going to fuel all of this boarding, surfing, and hiking? Well in case you didn’t know (I didn’t), Mexico is only 17 short miles away from San Diego. So, the Mexican food here is AMAZING! The typical San Diego burrito, the carne asada, is good enough to be a daily meal. Burrito fan or not, try all the Mexican food you can.

What about drinks? Do you like good beer? San Diego is also the birthplace of the American craft beer movement, making for an impressive variety of delicious local brews.

Conclusion

San Diego is the 8th largest city in the United States, and there is plenty to see besides Mission Bay. You can certainly spend weeks exploring the food, beer and culture scenes. For example, the Little Italy neighborhood is walkable and packed with cafes and trattorias, and it’s not far from the USS Midway museum.

But, for outdoor activities to try in San Diego, I’d go back to the Mission Bay neighborhood. It’s close to everything, and you can pick from a menu of activities ranging from relaxing (a la paddleboarding) to full body workouts (surfing). And you don’t have to spend much to rent a kayak or board, or to buy snorkeling equipment.

Plus, who can beat that sunset?

sunset over ocean

Hikes in Machu Picchu

hikes in Machu Picchu. Entrance to Huanya Picchu

Warm sun hits the gleam of sweat on your face, and you trudge over stones that were laid centuries ago while ignoring an adjacent cliffside. You pump your legs up stairs that promise riveting views of the Andean landscape, the same seductive sights that enraptured the Incas and draw thousands of annual visitors to Peru’s most popular (and expensive) attraction.

The dry air has a light sweetness to it. Giant orchids and zipping hummingbirds highlight the low vegetation around you. From over a thousand feet below, a rushing river provides a continuous background to the sounds of your companions’ breathing and the occasional conversation.

This isn’t just a dreamy picture of exploration; it is made reality when you hike Machu Picchu. But before you go, you must prepare. What are your hiking options? How should you get ready, both physically and mentally?

Read on as we answer these questions. And then read our article on Machu Picchu for all the facts you’ll need to visit the actual site (not just the hikes).

The Normal Machu Picchu Ticket

The Ministry of Culture offers 5 different loops (circuits) for visitors to Machu Picchu. These divide up travelers, resulting in a lower daily impact on the site. Your ticket will only include one circuit. This is considered a “normal” ticket for Machu Picchu.

The circuits are relatively new and vary in length. It’s best to get the latest information on each one from the Ministry of Culture’s website (where you can also buy tickets).

But while the circuits take 1.5-3 hours to complete, they are more of a stroll than a hike. If you want to really hike at Machu Picchu there are three options: Huchuy Picchu, Huayna Picchu, and Machu Picchu Mountain.

Note: There is also an option to see the Incan bridge, but this is a short walk and not what most would consider a hike (especially compared to the other three).

Add-on Hikes in Machu Picchu

When you buy tickets for Machu Picchu, you will have the option to buy a ticket that includes one of these hikes. You can only buy one ticket per day, and the circuit at Machu Picchu will be determined by the hike you choose.

For example, you will take a circuit through the lower part of Machu Picchu if you hike Huayna Picchu or Huchuy Picchu, and you’ll walk the upper part of the site if hiking Machu Picchu Mountain.

Your ticket for the hike will also be timed. That means you’ll have a designated hour to show up at the hike’s entrance, where you will then sign in.

Rock and thatched roof stone buildings
This rock is next to the entrance for Huchuy and Huayna Picchu. The Incas shaped the boulder in the same form as the mountain directly behind it, which was a common practice of theirs.

Huchuy Picchu

This is the most recently-opened, and shortest, of the three. At only 1 km (0.62 miles) long, the Huchuy Picchu hike is a vertiginous push to the top of the mountain that lies between Machu Picchu and the taller Huayna Picchu.

Huchuy Picchu isn’t long, but hiking it involves navigating a narrow, towering mountainside trail. Most arrive to the top within 15-20 minutes, and the descent takes 10-15 minutes.

a couple standing in front of stone archaeological site and green mountains
See the green hump all the way to the left, directly behind the stone buildings? That’s Huchuy Picchu! To the right is the larger Huayna Picchu

Huayna Picchu

Huanya Picchu is the most popular of the three hikes in Machu Picchu. That’s because it takes less time to complete than Machu Picchu Mountain and the trail arrives to the top of a mountain taller than Huchuy Picchu.

The ascent and descent take about 2 hours total. Much like at Huchuy Picchu, this 4km (2.5 mile) adventure will pump your adrenaline and put you face-to-face with any fear of heights lurking in your subconscious.

narrow, steep stone steps
One section of Huayna Picchu

Machu Picchu Mountain

The Machu Picchu Mountain hike starts at the opposite side of Machu Picchu than the other two. The 3-4 hour hike involves countless stairs- still on the side of the mountain, but not quite as narrow as those at Huayna or Huchuy Picchu.

All the effort is worth it, as you’ll arrive to the tallest summit at 3,082 meters (10,112 feet) above sea level.

And that will give you an excellent photo opportunity of the Machu Picchu complex, Huchuy Picchu and Huayna Picchu- if the clouds permit, that is :)

This is a moderately difficult hike that I only recommend if you have the time. Remember you’ll want time to tour Machu Picchu itself as well.

How to Hike Machu Picchu for Cheap

There technically is an option to hike Machu Picchu for free, although it is more of a hike to, not within, the actual site. The 8km (5 mile) path is easy to find because it is adjacent to the bus route for Machu Picchu.

Most people complete the hike in 1-2 hours. It’s totally uphill; you start at Aguas Calientes (an altitude of 389 meters or 1,276 feet), and end up at Machu Picchu (1,279 meters or 4,196 feet)!

A less strenuous option is to take the path down to Aguas Calientes after visiting Machu Picchu. Either way, just make sure to pack plenty of water.

Oh, and remember to get a bus ticket for the route that you won’t be hiking (to Machu Picchu or back to Aguas Calientes)!

Can You Hike Machu Picchu Without a Guide?

Yes, you can hike any of these without a guide. Guides are great for providing cultural context to the experience (and as another pair of hands for taking photos), but hiring one is not a requirement. Of course, you will be provided a guide if you purchase a tour package.

The first steps of the Huayna Picchu hike

Training for Hiking Machu Picchu

Anyone in good shape will do fine on these hikes. But remember, each hike is in addition to the 1.5-3 hours you’ll need to tour Machu Picchu.

The most difficult aspects are mental and the altitude. For the first, I recommend doing several 4-hour long hikes wearing a backpack (ideally with steep inclines) in the weeks leading up to traveling. If you can practice in a spot with steep drop-offs, even better.

The altitude aspect will take care of itself if you spend time in Cusco or the Sacred Valley before going to Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu is at a lower altitude than those areas. You should take at least 48 hours to acclimate to the altitude before hiking in Machu Picchu.

people using all fours to go up stone stairway

How Many Hikes are There to Machu Picchu?

For hiking to (not within) Machu Picchu, there are are several options. These vary from the 2-day Inca Trail (which we did in August 2022!) to 4-8 day options.

Conclusion

Including a hike greatly adds to the adventure of visiting Machu Picchu. This is whether you pick Huchuy Picchu, Huayna Picchu, Machu Picchu Mountain or the hike from Aguas Calientes. And as long as you are in reasonably good shape, you’ll do fine.

Get in some practice hikes before landing in Peru so you’ll be mentally ready.

And make sure you have enough time to catch your train back to Cusco!

Thinking of doing one of these hikes? Then read our post on visiting Machu Picchu this provides all the basic need-to-know information (including what to pack)!

Please leave a comment if you’ve done one of these hikes. Thanks for reading :)

man with two thumbs up and green mountains in background
Our guide, Abraham from Peru Summit Adventures, at the top of Huayna Picchu!

The Choquequirao Trek: Why Should You Check it Out?

Choquequirao trek. Ancient ruins among green mountains.
Note: This is a guest post by Galinka at Salkantay Trek Machu. Check out more posts and travel options on their website!

The Choquequirao trek will show you an ancient city larger than Machu Picchu, but one that remains far from most tourists’ attention. Here, visitors do not arrive on comfortable trains. Those who visit are true adventurers.

After days of exhausting hiking, brave trekkers can find the absolute silence of these mysterious ruins. Archaeologists estimate that only 40% of the city is excavated. That is why you should visit Choquequirao now, before the crowds rob you of the opportunity of an authentic encounter with the past.

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Drink tea & travel (channel)

What Is It Like to Hike the Choquequirao Trek?

The walk to the Inca citadel begins in the small town of Cachora. From there, it continues to cross the Apurimac River Canyon, eventually reaching the ruins of Choquequirao. It is a difficult circuit 3 times more demanding than the classic Inca Trail. That’s since in 1 day the hike descends by a kilometer (taking about 5 hours), and the next day involves lots of steep uphill hiking.

But the effort is worth every second thanks to the breathtaking views of the canyon. While in Machu Picchu you struggle for space with 2,500 tourists to get the best photo, Choquequirao receives about 30 people a day in high season.

This makes it the true lost city of the Incas.

Why Do the Choquequirao Trek Now?

The trek is an incredible personal challenge offering fantastic views. However, the Peruvian government has been considering building a cable car. This will transform Choquequirao into another popular, Machu Picchu-like archaeological site.

So you should enjoy the hike before it becomes too popular!

How Do I Hike the Choquequirao Trek?

Choquequirao: old stone ruins and green forest

There are two options: 

  • 4-day: This is considered to be the classic trek, starting and ending with transfers from/to Cusco. It measures 32 km. The trail is well maintained and easy to follow; however, its difficulty is high. Maximum altitude is 3,050 meters (10,000 feet) above sea level.
  • 9-day Choquequirao to Machu Picchu Trek: This is longer and best for really experienced trekkers. It usually starts with a transport from Cusco. The trek totals 90 km. The maximum altitude is 4,670 meters (15,300 feet) above sea level.

Both options offer local porters who can relieve you with your load. Other porters also carry camping equipment. Another possibility is to rent a mule.

Of course, any of these help the local economy. Just please ensure your porter or mule is not overloaded, since this is an unfortunately common problem.

Entrance ticket to the archaeological site of Choquequirao is 60 Soles/person (30 Soles for students with a valid ISIC card).

The best season for hiking is from May through October.

Below you can find an itinerary for the classic 4-day route.

Classic 4-Day Hike to Choquequirao

DAY 1: CUSCO – CACHORA – ROSALINA BEACH

The trek starts with a four hour ride from Cuzco to Cachora, a small town of 3,500 inhabitants surrounded by impressive snowy peaks. This place serves for a lunch break. It is also possible to buy any last supplies. Then, participants hike for 15 minutes to get to the popular viewing spot of Capuliyoc.

Afterwards, the descent through the Apurimac River Canyon begins. This is a very steep descent and takes approximately 5 hours. There the cold wind reaches speeds that will make you stagger. However, you’ll get impressive views over the canyon on the way.

When you reach the Apurimac River, the cold wind will be replaced by warm breezes. You will see lush vegetation and hear the rhythmic sounds of the crickets all around. You keep walking through Chiquisca to get to Rosalina Beach (1,550 meters, or 5,085 feet, above sea level.), the first campsite.

DAY 2: ROSALINA BEACH –MARAMPATA – CHOQUEQUIRAO – MARAMPATA

Llamas embedded into stone terraces
There are llamas embedded in the stone terraces. Llamas!!

In early morning, we cross the Apurimac River by means of cable car, which slides a mere three meters (10 feet) above the water. Then, one of the most difficult sections of the trek begins. You’ll make up for Day 1’s descent, going from 1,550 meters to 3,050 meters above sea level (5,085 to 10,000 feet).

The route itself is a constant, ascending zigzag under intense heat. After approximately 3-4 hours, you will reach Marampata, a small town with only 15 families. It is really admirable to see how they manage to survive in such an isolated area. There, we have a rest.

After that, the last 40-minute climb to the archaeological site of Choquequirao begins. Once you reach it, you realize that the mythical citadel is practically just for you. That’s because there are normally only 2 groups a day. It might leave you speechless. Instead of listening to tourists and flashes, you can only hear the sounds of wind and nature. Here nothing can disturb your experience.

You will spent all the afternoon walking around various agricultural terraces, aqueducts, ceremonial squares, viewpoints, ceremonial houses and temples, separated by stairs of all sizes and inclines. If you are lucky, you can even see condors flying. When the visit is over, we return to Marampata, where we camp again.

DAY 3: MARAMPATA – CHIQUISCA

In the morning, we take the same path back to the Apurimac River. Then, we start descending for around 4-5 hours to Chiquisca, where we camp for the last night.

DAY 4: CHIQUISCA – CACHORA – CUSCO 

Today we need to climb more than 1,000 meters to reach Cachora. The climb starts very early in the morning in order to avoid the intense afternoon heat. Once in Cachora, our transport takes us back to the city of Cusco.

Completing the Choquequirao Trek will fill you with satisfaction and bring you an experience that will never be forgotten!

Sunset over ancient stone building with mountains in background

Conclusion

Definitely consider Choquequirao for an awesome experience away from the crowds.

And check out my Southern Peru Adventure guide to start planning your trip.

Finally, if you’ve done the hike or hope to one day, leave a comment below!

Until next time! -Brad

All photos courtesy of Salkantay Trek Machu.

Hike Huayhuash: Our Guide to Peru’s Most Beautiful Trek

Hike Huayhuash and get away from it all. Man in red coat hiking green mountain with brown mountain in background.
Find it all at Peru’s best overlooked trek… Huayhuash!

Blue, green, and turquoise lakes. Icy peaks, flowing rivers, and glaciers. And often not a human in sight. This is your experience if you hike the globally-recognized Huayhuash.

What is Huayhuash?

Huayhuash is a private conservation area managed by local communities. It’s recognized as one of the best hikes in the world. And with only 5-7,000 visitors a year, it’s much less crowded than the Inca Trail (which sees 500 people a day!).

Huayhuash is already well-known in trekking circles, and mountain biking is available now, too.

I think the best part of Huayhuash is that you can create your own adventure. Itineraries vary from three to eighteen days. They are generally moderate to moderately strenuous, so you don’t have to be an expert mountaineer to enjoy Huayhaush.

The crazy thing is, the Huayhuash mountain chain is only 30km (19 miles) long. Yet it includes 3 departments in Peru, campsites at 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level, hot springs, turquoise lakes, glaciers, and the country’s second tallest mountain.

Why Hike Huayhuash?

Unlike most hikes in the Andes, this landscape here is more open. Because of that you’ll get amazing views of the mountain chain as you walk and rest at campsites. That’s also why Huayhuash is considered one of the world’s best hikes. Highlights include the three lakes, all different colors, and Peru’s second tallest mountain, Yerupaja. Yerupaja is 6,635 meters (21,800 feet) tall.

The movie Touching the Void (based on a true story) takes place in Huayhuash, too. You’ll get up close with the mountain that Joe Simpson and Simon Yates scaled, Siula Grande.

Plus if you hike Huayhuash you’ll directly contribute to local communities who manage the campsites. And you’ll see cool wildlife like llamas, alpacas, viscachas, Andean foxes, and condors.

Last but not least, this hike is more affordable than its more famous competition in Southern Peru.

But Huayhuash is just as good… perhaps better.

Itineraries in Huayhuash

Again, Huayhaush really is a create-your-own-adventure, which is unique for a hike that’s so highly regarded. There are options for all types of budgets and expectations.

To do the WHOLE hike, there are 15-18 day itineraries. But more visitors take a 9-10 day option or the “mini” 7-day hike. Each of these includes the main attractions of the full 18-day hike. Finally, consider a 3-day hike if you’re short on time, funds, or aren’t sure about a longer trek.

Almost all of these start in Llamac in Ancash department and include the view of three lakes. Campsites are usually at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level.

Most Common Itineraries for Huayhuash

  • 3 days: 15-20 km (9-12 miles). You’ll see a few of the major spots, all in the department of Ancash.
  • 7 days: This is the “mini” version and is considered the minimum amount of time to see most of Huayhuash, and it changes depending on visitor preference.
  • 10 days: Generally 110-115 km (about 70 miles); check out the sample itinerary below for more details!
  • 15-18 days: This is the full Huayhuash hike and the only way to see everything.
  • NOTE: All of these include one or two passes at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) a day and start in the village of Llamac in Ancash

Alternative Hiking Options for Huayhuash

Some hikes start in the thermal baths in the department of Lima and include the Raura mountain range, which is adjacent to Huayhuash. A few tour companies offer archaeology-based hikes, and several center on mountain climbing.

9-Day Example Itinerary

The most common itinerary for Huayhuash is 9-11 days. That’s because you see all the “big” attractions and aren’t going to be rushed. This is a moderately strenuous trek which includes several 8-9 hour long hikes.

Day 1

You start off in Huaraz (Ancash’s hiking capital and 8 hours from Lima). From there it’s a 2 hour ride to Chiquian, and from there 1 more hour to Llamac.

Llamac is where trek begins.

From Llamac it’s a forty minute walk to Pocpa, and a further 1.5 hours to the campsite. Another option is to continue hiking uphill to Cuartelhuain for the night.

Day 2

Start getting used to early mornings! At 7 am start the 2 hr uphill walk to Cacananpunta Pass, located at 4,750 meters or 15,580 feet above sea level. By lunchtime the hiking gets easier and you camp at Mitucocha.

Mitucocha is next to a river and you’ll chill with views of snowcapped mountains from the green valley.

Hike Huayhuash- river with rocks with green shore and snowcaps in background.
Campsite at Mitucocha.

Day 3

This is another 5 hour day of hiking. Today the tallest point is Yanapunta Pass, at 4,650 meters, or 15,260 feet. If you haven’t started, consider coca tea for the altitude.

You end up at Carhuacocha lake to camp for the night.

Yanapunta pass on Huayhuash Hike. People walking on yellow mountain with snowcaps in distance.
Yanapunta Pass. You get an idea of how massive the landscape is by the people in the middle.

Day 4

It’s the first big day! That’s because you’ll walk for 8 hours, see the 3 lakes, and go over Siula Pass, next to the infamous Siula Grande.

Siula Pass is the tallest pass of the hike so far at 4,785 meters (15,700 feet). From there you’ll get an awesome view of the three lakes and mountain range behind them.

Afterwards it’s all downhill to the Huayhuash campsite.

Suila Pass.

Day 5

This is a day of hiking for 5 hours to Viconga, where you can soak in hot springs. In case it’s not obvious, NEVER pass up a chance to soak in hot springs during a long, cold hike!

You’ll also go over Portachuelo Pass, which is about the same height as Siula, and end up at an altitude of 4,350 meters (17,560 feet) to camp for the night.

Nigh sky with starts and lit up tents below.
Viconga Campsite at night.

Day 6

By now you might be used to getting up at 7am and walking for hours. Which is exactly what you’ll do today. The total hiking time today is about 8 hours.

You’ll summit Cuyoc Pass at 5,000 meters (16,400 feet). From there you’ll view the whole Huayllapa valley and head on down to the campsite. If you have energy go to the Antonio lookout. From there you can view the entire mountain chain.

Day 7

For three hours you’ll walk to the town of Huayllapa, the first place you can buy limited food and supplies.

Rest up, make some phone calls, or just chill in town, because afterwards it’s 4-5 hours of slogging uphill to the campsite at 4,235 meters (13,900 feet).

Day 8

This is the longest day. You’ll hike for roughly 9 hours and go over two passes that are over 4,700 meters (15,400 feet) high. At the second pass, you’ll have lunch and enjoy one last great view of Huayhuash.

Hike Huayhuash- person dwarfed by large brown and yellow mountains and blue sky.
Yaucha Pass

Day 9

Today’s short and 80% of the walk is downhill. You’ll finish at the town of Pacllon. From Pacllon take a bus back to Chiquian and then Huaraz.

Tents on green shore next to river with snowcaps in background.
Campsite on the last night of the Huayhuash hike

Afterwards, rest up, eat, and bask in the knowledge that you did the most awesome hike ever.

Start thinking of how to brag to those people who could’ve come but didn’t :)

How to Prepare

How to Prepare Physically to Hike Huayhuash

Since Huayhuash is a multiday trek and the passes you’ll cross are incredibly high, it’s important to be in good hiking shape and to acclimatize to the altitude.

You can acclimatize in the city of Huaraz and take day hikes from there. First I’d take it easy in Huaraz for a couple of days since the city itself sits at 3,000 meters or 10,000 feet. Before arriving, make sure you’re in good shape and able to take on a long, sometimes strenuous hike. Practice makes perfect, so get in plenty of hiking back home beforehand.

Day Hikes from Huaraz

photo of man sitting on boat surrounded by mountains in Huascaran National park
Huascaran National Park. Photo by Alex Azabache on Pexels.com

The best hikes from Huaraz include:

  • Churup: a glacial lake and a hike that is 6 km (almost 4 miles) total. It’s 3 km up, then 3 km downhill.
  • Huascaran National Park: You can hike for hours among snowpeaks, crystalline lakes, and the famous quenual tree forest in this beautiful park.
  • Lake 69: Just like Churup, this is a completely uphill climb to a glacial lake. But the trek for Lake 69 is twice as long at 12 km (7.5 miles).
  • Paron: This lake is the largest in the Cordillera Blanca mountain chain and generally less visited than Lake 69 and Churup. The hike is 20 km (12 1/5 miles) and you may want to spend the night in nearby Caraz to get an early start.
  • Pastoruri: Pastoruri may be the easiest glacier to visit ever! You’ll spend a few hours on a bus to take the hike, which lasts about an hour.
  • Rajucolta: A 7-km (4.3 miles) hike to a beautiful glacial lake
  • Wilcacocha: 7.6 km or 4.7 miles is all you need to find yet another amazing glacial lake near Huaraz!

Huaraz is a cool town with lots of backpackers and hikers. So it’s easy to find a guide, information on how to arrive to trails, and hiking buddies.

Always stay well-hydrated at these altitudes. Avoid alcohol and caffeine initially, and consider an over-the-counter medicine to avoid altitude sickness.

Finally if you want to try a shorter multi-day hike to prepare for Huayhuash I recommend Santa Cruz, yet another hike recognized as one of the best in the world!

Glacier with person approaching. Pastoruri
Pastoruri glacier. Photo by Willian Justen de Vasconcellos on Unsplash

How to Prepare Mentally for Huayhuash

Whether you think you can or can’t, you’re probably right (Henry Ford).

Remember it’s tents outside every night when you hike Huayhuash. There are no showers and toilets are waterless. So, it’s, ahem, rustic.

If you’ve prepped enough physically, you’ll know. And just knowing may be enough. Of course, who you go with is crucial. When the air is thin, the weather cold, and my legs tired, I always want the most positive people around me.

Finally, just enjoy the hike. It’s not a race, and instead of rushing through and tiring out on Day 4, take your time and set a good pace.

How to Book Huayhuash

Responsible Tourism Professionals

Our friends, Hombres y Montañas (Men and Mountains) have worked in Huayhuash for generations. They are a family company and are professionals in responsible tourism.

Connect with them on Facebook to find out more and make a reservation.

Best time of the Year to Hike Huayhuash

May to September is the best time to hike Huayhuash because the rainy season has ended by about mid-May. The best time to go is late May and June. The vegetation will still be green and it doesn’t get as cold at night as in July or August, which are also the most popular months for trekking in the area.

Avoid traveling in the rainy season from November-April, when landslides are common and accommodations can be hard to find.

Where to Stay & Eat in Huaraz

The backpacker classic in Huaraz is Churup.

Cafe Andino and California Cafe are spots to check out for relaxing with a good book and coffee or coca tea.

There are lots of options for Peruvian food and nightlife, with 13 Buhos perhaps the best spot to grab a drink.

What to bring

The Essentials

Obviously, trekking equipment (and climbing gear if that’s your thing). For a hike similar to the one above, you should have this equipment at a minimum:

  • Backpack with water cover
  • Rain poncho, especially if it’s not June-September
  • Rainproof tent
  • Sleeping bag
  • Waterproof hiking shoes or boots
  • 2 pairs of hiking pants
  • A couple of short sleeved shirts (the weather can get surprisingly warm)
  • 2 long sleeved shirts
  • 1 set of pajamas
  • A bathing suit for Viconga and its hot springs
  • Down jacket
  • Sandals to let your feet breathe when not hiking
  • Sunglasses
  • Quick dry travel towel
  • Head lamp
  • Toiletries, including sunscreen and hand sanitizer
  • Medicine kit
  • Straw filter or similar products
  • Travel medical isurance
  • Snacks! Coca leaves are great for altitude too
  • A GPS if going alone

Nice-To-Haves

You may want to consider these, depending on your preference and how much you want to bring.

  • Solar charger for smartphone
  • Extra camera batteries
  • Trekking poles
  • Sleeping pad
  • Thermos
  • Emergency oxygen

TIPS: It’s common to rent equipment in Huaraz, or to even buy used equipment. Most agencies provide some or most of the equipment written above.

Weather

Sunset over lake and snowcapped mountains. Hike Huayhuash
Huayhuash in the morning. Photo by David Torres on Unsplash

The temperature goes down to 0-2 C (32-36 F) at night and is coldest in July. But it goes up to 20C (68F), even at high altitudes, at daytime.

Expect lighter rainstorms in May and Oct. From June through September, known as “Andean summer”, you can get clear blue skies all day, every day.

Huaraz gets up to 20C (68F) during the day and will go down to 5-6C (40’s F) at night.

How to Get There

Buses leave regularly from Lima to Huaraz all day. The trip takes 8 hours. Huaraz has an airport but flights are not always regular.

From the north, buses from Trujillo and Chiclayo go to Huaraz, too.

Cost

The cost of hiking Huayhuash is going to depend on a lot of factors, especially number of days and what’s included. Depending on price, agencies may provide 3 square meals a day, a tent, sleeping bag, a team to carry supplies, cooks, entrance to the communities’ campsites, and transportation.

Having said that huge caveat, you can expect to more or less pay these amounts for Huayhuash:

  • 3-day tour: $300
  • 9-11 days: $500-650
  • 15-18 days: Up to $1,400
  • Personalized 152km (95 mile) hike: $4,000

If going alone, make sure you pay each community for using the trail and campsites. Remember that only ONE community (Huayllapa) has shops, so you’re not restocking daily.

And expect to pay in cash.

These communities provide the following campsites:

  • Huayllapa: Viconga, Guanacpatayand Huatiaq
  • Llámac: Cuartewain and Jahuacocha 
  • Pacllon: Qashpapampa and Jahuacocha 
  • Pocpa: Pocpa
  • Queropalca: Mitucocha and Carhuacocha
  • Quisuarcancha: Carhuacocha
  • Siula Grande: Base camp
  • Tupac Amaru: Huayhuash 
  • Uramaza: Viconga lake and hot springs  :)

Conclusion

Huayhuash is among the best hikes in the world, and it’s way less crowded than Peru’s most famous hike, the Inca Trail.

Definitely consider it if adventure is in your blood. Just make sure to acclimatize to the altitude and to prepare your body first.

Again, the mountain chain’s preservation depends on local communities, so be sure to leave no trace and respect the people and wildlife. To get the most out of your trip and hike Huayhuash, check out our partners at Hombres y Montañas Huayhuash (Facebook). These guys are responsible tourism professionals who focus on adventure tourism in Ancash.

Unless otherwise noted, all photos by our friend Erick Bernabe from Hombres y Montañas. Muchas gracias, Erick!!

Peru Sample Itinerary: The Ultimate Off-The Beaten Path Adventure

man on the hike to the mountain Apu Pariacaca
The hike to Pariacaca from Tanta (Yauyos, Lima Department)

Tourists to Peru often wonder if the regions outside of Machu Picchu and Cusco are worth visiting. As someone who once lived far off the Gringo Trail, my answer to this is OF COURSE! There are countless destinations that offer memorable adventures in this incredibly diverse, colorful country. For off the beaten path adventures -after much discussion- we chose the Central region for a Peru sample itinerary.

The region of Central Peru is especially overlooked by international tourists. But here you can zipline in the jungle, hike ancient Incan trails, and whitewater raft for the fraction of the cost in other areas. Just like the North and South, Central Peru is divided by coast, mountains, and jungle. And this itinerary takes you to all three.

Feel free to use this sample itinerary for a trip to Central Peru. Or, mix-and-match experiences; pick one of the destinations below and add it to an itinerary for Cusco and Machu Picchu.

Sample Itinerary: Central Peru

Day 1- Play, Eat & Learn Lima

Lima is overcast and grey 8 months of the year. But being home to 1/3 of Peru’s population, the city offers museums, surfboard and bike rentals, and a world-class gastronomy. Get your ceviche on, check out Museo Larco to learn about Peru’s long history, and walk around the Bohemian Barranco neighborhood.

At night take a fully-reclining seat on a buscama to Oxapampa. This trip will take 10 hours.

Where to stay

Consider Kaminu Backpackers in Barranco. They follow sustainable water practices (Lima’s located in a giant desert) and offer bike rentals. For hotels, I like Casa Andina in Miraflores.

Top experiences in lima

  • Surfing the costa verde
  • Renting a bike on the malecon (boardwalk) in Miraflores
  • Parasailing in Miraflores
  • Visiting the creepy catacombs at San Francisco Cathedral
  • Getting your history on at Museo Larco
  • Eating the local fruits and dishes at Mercado Surquillo in Miraflores
  • Ceviche…. always ceviche
woman holding surfboard

Day 2-4: Extreme Sports in The Central Jungle

Peru sample itinerary: man rappelling down waterfalls in Oxapampa, Peru

Now you’re in the Central Jungle. This area is known for the German settlements of Pozuzo and Oxapampa. It’s my favorite area in Peru; the weather is warm, the architecture Austrian, and the coffee and beer local and tasty. The weather is warm but not hot, and it gets slightly chilly at night.

clouds parting in central jungle of peru

Day 2: Stay a night at Ulcumano Ecolodge, a beautiful ecolodge on the outskirts of Oxapampa. Take advantage of the ziplines, rappelling, and hiking opportunities.

peru sample itinerary: photo of two hammocks at Ulcumano Ecolodge

Day3: Check out Rio Tigre waterfall near Oxapampa. Take a taxi ride and make the short hike and get soaked under the falls. After lunch take a combi mini-bus to Yanachaga Chemillen National Park. You can take a guided hike (free) and finish searching for Peru’s national bird, the Cock of the Rock. Hundreds of them come out at 4pm every day!

The park rangers can also show you where to camp. You’ll need your own tent, however. Otherwise catch the next combi back to Oxapampa or continue on to the old German settlement of Pozuzo for the night.

cock of the rock bird
Cock of the Rock. Yup, it’s a real, actual name

Day 4: Take time to check out the German architecture in the plaza. If you’re looking for something to do, there is a cave near Oxapampa called Tunqui which makes for a good short adventure. After lunch head to Huancayo, a 6 hour trip.

Where to stay

I recommend Carolina Egg Gesthuas in Oxapampa. The wooden cabins are big and comfy, and they have a pool and bonfire area.

Top Experiences in the Central Jungle

  • Outdoor activities at Ulcumano ecolodge
  • Hiking to the area’s waterfalls
  • Hiking, camping & birdwatching at Yanachaga Chemillen National Park
  • Drinking German beer and food at Dorcher brewery
  • Trying the self-proclaimed “best coffee in world” from nearby Villa Rica

Day 5: Rest Up In Huancayo

outside Park of Identity in Huancayo

Spend day 5 in Huancayo. Huancayo is a bustling, authentically Andean city and the jumping-off point to the North Yauyos-Cochas Landscape Reserve. Take it easy today. You’ll probably need to adjust to the altitude (10,692 feet or 3,259 meters). So, have a coca tea and avoid alcohol and caffeine.

Huancayo does provide some adventure options. A day hike to the snowcapped Huaytapallana mountain is the most popular option. The city is also famous for its artisans and is the region’s cultural capital. Definitely go to an artisan market for souvenirs.

Where to stay

Since you’re only in Huancayo to pass through, stay at a convenient place downtown like Junco y Capuli.

top experiences in huancayo

  • View the city and Mantaro Valley at Cerro de la Libertad
  • Souvenir shopping at the artesian collective next to the main plaza
  • Learning about the Peruvian internal conflict at the art museum Yalpana Wasi
  • Visiting Parque de la Identidad (Wanka Identity Park). This small park pays tribute to local culture with stone structures, statues and native flora. Buy a chicha drink from the woman at the front door!

Days 6-8 YOLO in Yauyos!

mountain landscape in Yauyos, Peru
Sunset from Vitis, Yauyos province- my old home :)

Day 6: If you’re going to make a sample itinerary for Peru based on off-the-beaten path areas, the beautiful region of Yauyos must be considered!

Catch an early morning combi mini bus or shared taxi (collectivo) to the Nor-Yauyos Cochas Landscape Reserve. Here the weather will be cold at night and warm in the afternoon, much like Huancayo. Go to the centrally-located town of Alis to start your day.

You can stay at a local bed and breakfast-type of location (hospedaje) and make day trips to other villages. Or, you can spend the night at the other towns (which is easier). Either way, you have a few options:

Laraos

  • Take a bus or shared taxi to Laraos. Laraos has UNESCO world heritage-listed terraces, a famous disappearing lake, and impressive archaeological sites.

Miraflores

  • Take a bus or shared taxi to Miraflores. There you can hike for a couple of hours alongside a mountain to the old town of Miraflores, abandoned in 1912. The Central Mountain Range of Peru runs through Miraflores. So you’ll get even more excellent views of snowcapped peaks. You can hike down from the town to catch a car to Huancaya.

Huancaya

  • Take a bus or shared taxi to Huancaya. Huancaya is the most popular destination in the Reserve because of its blue cascades and turquoise lakes. Next door, Vitis offers a 3-hr hike to a pre-Incan site called Cochaswasi. Further past Huancaya (about 2 hours in car) is the village of Vilca, which has more lakes and an impressive Quenual forest. The trees are straight out of a fairy tale. You can camp in Huancaya next to the waterfalls or book a room at a locally-run spot like Hostal Huancaya.
cascades of Huancaya peru
Cascades in Huancaya

Days 7 & 8: Spend two days in the destination of choice or split your time among multiples places.

Day 9 & 10: Raft & Bike in Lunahuaná

people whitewater rafting

Day 9: Take one of the buses or shared cars that leave every morning for Lima. But, instead of getting off at the end of the line, stop at the weekend warrior spot of Lunahuaná. Here you can whitewater raft, mountain bike, and taste local wines and Pisco.

Lunahuaná is about 5 hours from the center of the Reserve downhill, so the weather is dry and warm. Lima is only 3 hours away.

Where To Stay in Lunahuaná

Hotel Quilla Wasi is reasonably priced and offers services that you’ll appreciate after being on the road for so long (HELLO, laundry service!!!)

Day 10: Finish up any activity you want to try in Lunahuaná, then take a shared car or bus to Lima.

If You Have More Time

  • Take a shared car or bus from Oxapampa to Villa Rica for a coffee tour, in arguably Peru’s best coffee town.
  • Hike in the Forest of Love (Bosque de Amor) in Vilca. This is 2 hours from Huancaya.
  • Further on from Vilca, visit the village of Tanta. The village provides guide and porters for a 2-day trek to the snow-capped mountain deity (Apu in Quechua) named Pariacaca. You’ll be on an ancient Incan path the entire time- a true Inca Trail.
  • Before ending your trip in Lima, get off the bus from Lunahuaná at the surfing hotspot Punta Hermosa. Here you can rent a board to catch some waves, or just enjoy the delicious seafood!

Best Time to Go to Central Peru

Try to avoid the rainy season from November through April. Especially avoid the rainiest months, January and February. Transportation can be dangerous, and towns in general shut down in these months. Of course, since the coast is a desert, this only applies to the Andes and jungle.

Conclusion

I hope this sample itinerary for Peru helps you in planning your adventure. Do you have questions or comments? Email us at GringoInca@gmail.com or comment below. Gracias!