Tag: hike

The Short Inca Trail – All You Need to Know

Comparisons with other hikes in the region make the short Inca Trail seem like a Cusco cheat code. You take the world-famous Trail and arrive to the Wonder of the World that is Machu Picchu in only one day. That’s compared to 4 to 8 days for other Inca Trail options. But in reality this is a separate experience, complete with its own pros and cons.

So don’t be fooled by misconceptions that this trek is easy (it’s not). Or that it is lacks breathtaking views (far from the truth). Or, honestly, that this 2-day experience is cheaper (it is, but not by much).

Is the 2-Day Inca Trail Worth It?

Let’s start with the most common question on the Short Inca Trail. And our response is: Without a doubt!

This hike does not include the extreme heights and other highlights from the regular 4-day Inca Trail; however hikers pass through impressive Incan sites, a beautifully biodiverse Andean landscape and fantastically forested hillsides on this trek to Machu Picchu.

Also just like the longer version, this hike is on the official Inca Trail and includes memorable moments like the infamous “gringo killer” stairs.

Undoubtedly the longer hikes in the Cusco region provide payoffs that this shortened version cannot. But this is a wonderful and once-in-a-lifetime experience that is more than worth it for anyone who doesn’t have the time for (or doesn’t want to do) a 4-8 day trek.

Short Inca trail stop: Wiñaywayna. Stone houses with windows and no roofs.

The Classic, 2-Day Short Inca Trail to Machu Picchu: Our Experience

3:30 AM Wake Up

Our bumpy van ride from Cusco to Ollantaytambo’s train station started at 3:45 in the morning. We arrived to the train station at around 5:30 and ate breakfast. Like most hotels in Cusco do, Niños offered us breakfasts to go, with hot coca tea and all.

Eyes half-open, we received our train tickets from our tour guide and ascended the train. It was a 1 hour descent towards tropical climes and kilometer 104. I tried to keep awake and observe the landscape as it changed but only recall a sleepily green haze.

The only way to KM 104 is by train. The narrow valley is barely wider than the river itself, which is hugged by train tracks and trails on opposite sides.

A wire bridge brought us to the starting point, a bright site brimming with lush vegetation, backpackers and guides. We took off our sweaters. It smelled of chocolate and, near a certain group hikers, enough bug spray to kill off a species.

sign marker for Short Inca trail at the beginning (km 104)
Km 104- the starting point of our hike!

Chachabamba

Within minutes the trail took us to the first Incan site, Chachabamba. Chachabamba is a small site with a few houses and a spot for religious ceremonies in the center.

Abraham, our guide, took a moment to explain Cusco’s palpable Incan pride and some history. He explained the concept of ayni. This is similar to reciprocity in English. Ayni is the habit of helping someone, with the understanding that they will do the same for you when (or if) needed. Ayni permeates the way of life in the Peruvian Andes on a daily basis, as anyone who has found themselves lost in a small pueblo can confirm.

Practicing Ayni extended even to the Inca’s imperial endeavors. Newly conquered peoples were provided with better access to food and supplies, and could keep their languages and religions, in return for not warring with the powerful Cusco potentate.

The trail really begins after Chachabamba. For the next 1-2 hours we trudged uphill on a thin, dusty strip on the mountainside. A recent fire took out the vegetation, but surrounding us were green mountainsides, so close that they seemed huddled together like campers next to a fire on a chilly night. Our friend commented on the resemblance of this part of the Andes to the Alps in Europe.

Soon the train tracks were out of sight, but the powerful Urubamba was still visible and heard. Every once in a while a train whistle reminded us that Machu Picchu was not too far.

two hikers on side of mountain

WiñayWayna

Eventually the trail was covered by shade as we moved closer to river crossings and a waterfall. The splash of ice cold water on my face was invigorating and well-welcomed.

The Incas knew how to present. The path widens and stonework is more intricate as you approach an important spot. A dozen or so stone stairs worked our stride towards a 20-foot-tall boulder. As we moved around the imposing rock, Wiñaywayna stepped from hiding into view

Hundreds of terraces make up the entire side of a mountain. A housing complex and large sun temple sit atop everything. The circular temple’s windows align with solstices, the waterfall, and other celestial and natural points of importance.

We ate lunch right after. Our porter (who was also the chef) made guacamole, a quinoa dish, and dessert.

waterfall
man walking among green terraces
Walking among the terraces of Wiñaywayna
stone, circular, roofless temple with 10 windows
Temple of 10 windows at Wiñaywayna

From The Gringo Killer To Intipunku

The second half of the short Inca Trail is mostly flat or downhill, with one breathtaking exception. The path is wide, signifying something of spiritual significance approaches.

This was my favorite part of the trail. It rolls through green cloud forest, and hummingbirds of all sizes and colors flittered around us.

The pleasantness came to an abrupt end at the bottom of an impossibly steep stairway. Our guide explained we had arrived at the “Gringo Killer“.

Hearts pounded as we climbed, at times on all fours. The Gringo Killer stairs are slightly uneven but laid strong, making for easy gripping. But the easy conversation that had been going on since lunch was gone.

At the top our friend Maria exclaimed her true feelings. Breathless, she looked at us with wide eyes and sputtered out, “DEATH!”

Behind was a yet-unseen view of the valley, the Urubamba, and a handful of archaeological sites. We saw sections of trail that we had hiked earlier, now amber cords wrapped around monstrous mountains.

Soon enough we were at the Sun Gate, Intipunku. It sat on a ridge with rays of sun swooping through, announcing the presence of Machu Picchu like golden streamers.

The short Inca Trail is no small accomplishment. We were exhausted, we hugged other, took photos and had contented smiles. Then we began the short descent to Machu Picchu.

steep stone steps with man near top
The Gringo Killer stairway! No actual gringos were harmed during the shooting of this photo ;)

Machu Picchu Pueblo

Post-descent to Machu Picchu, it was photo time! Each traveler, couple, and the group as a whole took photos at the iconic spot with Huaynu Picchu mountain in the background.

Llamas were happy to share their home, and they divided their time between letting tourists pet them and trying to nibble a bite of an unsuspecting visitor’s snack. Several lay down on the edge of a terrace. Their wool fluffed up , giving them an odd look, like fuzzy bean bag chairs with long giraffe-like necks.

We then took a bus to Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas Calientes) to shower, eat dinner, and grab an early sleep.

Machu Picchu. Terraced mountain with taller mountain in background. Stone houses.
Machu Picchu. FINALLY!

Day 2: Machu Picchu

The park service divides Machu Picchu into 4 separate circuits. This lessens the burden on each section of the site. Each circuit ensures that travelers still see every part of Machu Picchu.

We had circuit 4, a longer trail that is the lowest on the mountain. This takes you to the entrances for Huaynu Picchu and Huchuy Picchu. Our group signed up for Huaynu Picchu and beelined to the entrance upon leaving the bus.

After the Huaynu Picchu hike (which is optional) we had the tour of Machu Picchu. This is an enjoyable, educational excursion where the guide explains the importance of the site and each section.

Note: The crowds make it easy to keep moving and forget to take time to really appreciate Machu Picchu. This is a 600-year-old sacred site, still intact despite the Spanish’s best attempts to destroy anything Incan. The steps you use and of all the views have not changed in centuries.

So take your time to soak it in. Appreciate the Incas, the Pachamama, and how Machu Picchu’s shape fits into and even mirrors the landscape. Stop and wait to take that fantastic photo when you need.

Our two days over, we hopped into a van for Cusco after picking up our things from the hotel. The trip involved a quick detour to buy a snack from the market (fresh cheese and corn!). We then rested.

Short Inca Trail Need-to-Know Information

Basic Facts

What was the Inca Trail Used For?

The Inca Trail was a religious pilgrimage route. It was part of the royal road that connected the entire western half of South America– from Chile to Colombia.

While today anyone with a ticket can enter, in Incan times only societal elites had the privilege of walking certain sections of the royal road. That includes the part that we now call the Inca Trail.

How Long is the Short inca Trail?

The hike is 12 km/7.46 miles long. It takes an average of 6-7 hours to complete.

Man in sombrero looking at group of people sitting down in front of stone terraces and among thatched-roof buildings.
Gazing around Machu Picchu

Where Does the Trail Start and End?

The short Inca Trail starts at Kilometer 104, which is the first train stop after Ollantaytambo. It ends at Machu Picchu.

Stone, roofless buildings, green terraces and mountain behind.
Behind Machu Picchu sits Huaynu Picchu

Permits for the Short Inca Trail

You CANNOT get a permit (or enter) any section of the Inca Trail without a professional guide. This means you have to use a tour company, who vary somewhat in cost, comfort and quality.

Companies obtain permits for hikers upon payment.

Tour Companies

I strongly recommend to do research before choosing a tour company. Read reviews on TripAdvisor, check out content and comments on social media, and write any questions you have to company email or WhatsApp contacts.

Also, think about what you want from the experience. Are you OK with joining a larger group of strangers? Would you like to pay a little more for a more intimate, private tour? Are there any language or other preferences that some companies do not provide? etc.

Availability

You can hike the Inca Trail eleven months out of the year (this and Machu Picchu are closed in February).

Best practice is to buy permits a 2-4 months ahead of time. Fortunately, the Short Inca Trail does not sell out as quickly as other Inca Trail options.

What Is Included (and What’s Left Out)

There is not much variety between what tour companies include with the Short Inca Trail package. At a minimum you should receive:

  • Permit for the Inca Trail
  • Tickets to enter Machu Picchu (for both days)
  • Train ticket and/or van service from and to your hotel in Cusco
  • Guide
  • Lunch on Day 1
  • Bus tickets for Machu Picchu: to Aguas Calientes on Day 1, and from/to Aguas Calientes on Day 2

Usually hiking poles are separate but offered. If your selected company does not set up a hotel in Aguas Calientes, make sure to do so quickly.

Sometimes a porter is included, too. But plan on carrying your things for the entire trek since these services are less common.

You’ll have the option to pay extra for a hike in Machu Picchu as well.

man in hat walking through stone hallway
Strolling through Wiñaywayna

Price

We paid $650 per person for a private tour of 4 people. That is at the medium-high end for the Short Inca Trail.

Having said that, anything from about $400-750/person is normal. A few luxury tourism companies charge even more.

Difficulty

This is considered a moderately difficult hike. The first half is especially tough. During these first hours you will mostly go uphill with little shade, and for miles the trail takes you across steep mountainside. The flatter, shade-rich second half balances out the trek.

Remains of stone buildings with terraces behind

How to Prepare

Packing List

The packing list for the Short Inca Trail is long, considering this is really a 1-day hike with a tour of Machu Picchu on day 2. That’s because you’ll need to prepare for the climate and also have all of your personal items for Machu Picchu, the train, and your hotel in Aguas Calientes.

  • Original passport and 2 copies
  • Travel insurance and 2 copies
  • Phone + charger
  • Camera + charger
  • Power adapter
  • Soap or hand sanitizer
  • Toilet paper
  • Mosquito repellent (recommended 30% DEET)
  • Anti-inflammatory tablets (such as ibuprofen)
  • Sunblock
  • Personal first-aid kit (Aspirin, Acetazolamide (Diamox), Band-Aids, anti-histamine, anti-diarrheal, re-hydration powder, any medication)
  • Hiking poles (if you usually use them)
  • Rain gear (jacket, shoes, backpack at a minimum. This is essential if you go in the rainy season from October to March)
  • Comfortable hiking clothes. Include a long sleeved shirt, hat, hiking pants, and a t-shirt.
  • Clothes for evening and sleeping in Aguas Calientes
  • Hiking boots that go over the ankle. Remember socks too!
  • Light sandals
  • Sunglasses
  • Ear Plugs. Aguas Calientes can get loud at night!
  • Plenty of water
  • Snackies
  • Cash- Peruvian soles and USD
  • Credit or debit card.

Some people bring a bathing suit for the hot springs in Aguas Calientes. However we didn’t have any time for this, and the springs get very full, very fast.

Last but certainly not least: use as light a backpack as possible! You’ll probably carry all of your stuff on the Trail.

Recommended Reading

Plenty of books provide historical, spiritual and cultural contexts that will make the experience more well-rounded.

  • Inca Land by Hiram Bingham: Ok, this book is definitely a self-promotion. But it paints a picture of what Machu Picchu and the “Inca Trail” looked like before the hoards of tourists began to visit.
  • Life and Death in the Andes by Kim MacQuarrie: Each chapter focuses on a different spot of intrigue in South America, but Peru receives the most attention.
  • Turn Right at Machu Picchu by Mark Adams: An entertaining history of the author’s quest to walk to Machu Picchu and the other Incan citadels nearby such as Choquequirao and Vilcabamba
Open-air tunnel with red roof

Getting Fit

This is a daylong tour that will test anyone who is not in great shape. Get your body (and mind) used to hiking for hours while carrying a backpack.

The Short Inca Trail’s altitude is considerably lower than Cusco’s. Still, you’ll reach a height of 2,650 meters (8,692 feet). So spend 2-3 days in Cusco or the Sacred Valley to acclimatize before starting this hike.

green mountains with clouds and in the very. back, snow

Conclusion

The Short Inca Trail is the second most popular hike to Machu Picchu, and for good reason. If you don’t want to sleep outside, or don’t have the time for a multi-day hike, this is a fantastic option. And it’s stunningly beautiful and challenging enough even for types who normally backpack for 10 days at a time.

If you’ve taken this hike or are going, write a comment below! Feel free to email us at gringoinca@gmail.com if you want more information about the Trail or our experience.

Stone, thatched roof building with large rock in front and green mountains behind. Clouds.

Hike Huayhuash: Our Guide to Peru’s Most Beautiful Trek

Hike Huayhuash and get away from it all. Man in red coat hiking green mountain with brown mountain in background.
Find it all at Peru’s best overlooked trek… Huayhuash!

Blue, green, and turquoise lakes. Icy peaks, flowing rivers, and glaciers. And often not a human in sight. This is your experience if you hike the globally-recognized Huayhuash.

What is Huayhuash?

Huayhuash is a private conservation area managed by local communities. It’s recognized as one of the best hikes in the world. And with only 5-7,000 visitors a year, it’s much less crowded than the Inca Trail (which sees 500 people a day!).

Huayhuash is already well-known in trekking circles, and mountain biking is available now, too.

I think the best part of Huayhuash is that you can create your own adventure. Itineraries vary from three to eighteen days. They are generally moderate to moderately strenuous, so you don’t have to be an expert mountaineer to enjoy Huayhaush.

The crazy thing is, the Huayhuash mountain chain is only 30km (19 miles) long. Yet it includes 3 departments in Peru, campsites at 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level, hot springs, turquoise lakes, glaciers, and the country’s second tallest mountain.

Why Hike Huayhuash?

Unlike most hikes in the Andes, this landscape here is more open. Because of that you’ll get amazing views of the mountain chain as you walk and rest at campsites. That’s also why Huayhuash is considered one of the world’s best hikes. Highlights include the three lakes, all different colors, and Peru’s second tallest mountain, Yerupaja. Yerupaja is 6,635 meters (21,800 feet) tall.

The movie Touching the Void (based on a true story) takes place in Huayhuash, too. You’ll get up close with the mountain that Joe Simpson and Simon Yates scaled, Siula Grande.

Plus if you hike Huayhuash you’ll directly contribute to local communities who manage the campsites. And you’ll see cool wildlife like llamas, alpacas, viscachas, Andean foxes, and condors.

Last but not least, this hike is more affordable than its more famous competition in Southern Peru.

But Huayhuash is just as good… perhaps better.

Itineraries in Huayhuash

Again, Huayhaush really is a create-your-own-adventure, which is unique for a hike that’s so highly regarded. There are options for all types of budgets and expectations.

To do the WHOLE hike, there are 15-18 day itineraries. But more visitors take a 9-10 day option or the “mini” 7-day hike. Each of these includes the main attractions of the full 18-day hike. Finally, consider a 3-day hike if you’re short on time, funds, or aren’t sure about a longer trek.

Almost all of these start in Llamac in Ancash department and include the view of three lakes. Campsites are usually at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level.

Most Common Itineraries for Huayhuash

  • 3 days: 15-20 km (9-12 miles). You’ll see a few of the major spots, all in the department of Ancash.
  • 7 days: This is the “mini” version and is considered the minimum amount of time to see most of Huayhuash, and it changes depending on visitor preference.
  • 10 days: Generally 110-115 km (about 70 miles); check out the sample itinerary below for more details!
  • 15-18 days: This is the full Huayhuash hike and the only way to see everything.
  • NOTE: All of these include one or two passes at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) a day and start in the village of Llamac in Ancash

Alternative Hiking Options for Huayhuash

Some hikes start in the thermal baths in the department of Lima and include the Raura mountain range, which is adjacent to Huayhuash. A few tour companies offer archaeology-based hikes, and several center on mountain climbing.

9-Day Example Itinerary

The most common itinerary for Huayhuash is 9-11 days. That’s because you see all the “big” attractions and aren’t going to be rushed. This is a moderately strenuous trek which includes several 8-9 hour long hikes.

Day 1

You start off in Huaraz (Ancash’s hiking capital and 8 hours from Lima). From there it’s a 2 hour ride to Chiquian, and from there 1 more hour to Llamac.

Llamac is where trek begins.

From Llamac it’s a forty minute walk to Pocpa, and a further 1.5 hours to the campsite. Another option is to continue hiking uphill to Cuartelhuain for the night.

Day 2

Start getting used to early mornings! At 7 am start the 2 hr uphill walk to Cacananpunta Pass, located at 4,750 meters or 15,580 feet above sea level. By lunchtime the hiking gets easier and you camp at Mitucocha.

Mitucocha is next to a river and you’ll chill with views of snowcapped mountains from the green valley.

Hike Huayhuash- river with rocks with green shore and snowcaps in background.
Campsite at Mitucocha.

Day 3

This is another 5 hour day of hiking. Today the tallest point is Yanapunta Pass, at 4,650 meters, or 15,260 feet. If you haven’t started, consider coca tea for the altitude.

You end up at Carhuacocha lake to camp for the night.

Yanapunta pass on Huayhuash Hike. People walking on yellow mountain with snowcaps in distance.
Yanapunta Pass. You get an idea of how massive the landscape is by the people in the middle.

Day 4

It’s the first big day! That’s because you’ll walk for 8 hours, see the 3 lakes, and go over Siula Pass, next to the infamous Siula Grande.

Siula Pass is the tallest pass of the hike so far at 4,785 meters (15,700 feet). From there you’ll get an awesome view of the three lakes and mountain range behind them.

Afterwards it’s all downhill to the Huayhuash campsite.

Suila Pass.

Day 5

This is a day of hiking for 5 hours to Viconga, where you can soak in hot springs. In case it’s not obvious, NEVER pass up a chance to soak in hot springs during a long, cold hike!

You’ll also go over Portachuelo Pass, which is about the same height as Siula, and end up at an altitude of 4,350 meters (17,560 feet) to camp for the night.

Nigh sky with starts and lit up tents below.
Viconga Campsite at night.

Day 6

By now you might be used to getting up at 7am and walking for hours. Which is exactly what you’ll do today. The total hiking time today is about 8 hours.

You’ll summit Cuyoc Pass at 5,000 meters (16,400 feet). From there you’ll view the whole Huayllapa valley and head on down to the campsite. If you have energy go to the Antonio lookout. From there you can view the entire mountain chain.

Day 7

For three hours you’ll walk to the town of Huayllapa, the first place you can buy limited food and supplies.

Rest up, make some phone calls, or just chill in town, because afterwards it’s 4-5 hours of slogging uphill to the campsite at 4,235 meters (13,900 feet).

Day 8

This is the longest day. You’ll hike for roughly 9 hours and go over two passes that are over 4,700 meters (15,400 feet) high. At the second pass, you’ll have lunch and enjoy one last great view of Huayhuash.

Hike Huayhuash- person dwarfed by large brown and yellow mountains and blue sky.
Yaucha Pass

Day 9

Today’s short and 80% of the walk is downhill. You’ll finish at the town of Pacllon. From Pacllon take a bus back to Chiquian and then Huaraz.

Tents on green shore next to river with snowcaps in background.
Campsite on the last night of the Huayhuash hike

Afterwards, rest up, eat, and bask in the knowledge that you did the most awesome hike ever.

Start thinking of how to brag to those people who could’ve come but didn’t :)

How to Prepare

How to Prepare Physically to Hike Huayhuash

Since Huayhuash is a multiday trek and the passes you’ll cross are incredibly high, it’s important to be in good hiking shape and to acclimatize to the altitude.

You can acclimatize in the city of Huaraz and take day hikes from there. First I’d take it easy in Huaraz for a couple of days since the city itself sits at 3,000 meters or 10,000 feet. Before arriving, make sure you’re in good shape and able to take on a long, sometimes strenuous hike. Practice makes perfect, so get in plenty of hiking back home beforehand.

Day Hikes from Huaraz

photo of man sitting on boat surrounded by mountains in Huascaran National park
Huascaran National Park. Photo by Alex Azabache on Pexels.com

The best hikes from Huaraz include:

  • Churup: a glacial lake and a hike that is 6 km (almost 4 miles) total. It’s 3 km up, then 3 km downhill.
  • Huascaran National Park: You can hike for hours among snowpeaks, crystalline lakes, and the famous quenual tree forest in this beautiful park.
  • Lake 69: Just like Churup, this is a completely uphill climb to a glacial lake. But the trek for Lake 69 is twice as long at 12 km (7.5 miles).
  • Paron: This lake is the largest in the Cordillera Blanca mountain chain and generally less visited than Lake 69 and Churup. The hike is 20 km (12 1/5 miles) and you may want to spend the night in nearby Caraz to get an early start.
  • Pastoruri: Pastoruri may be the easiest glacier to visit ever! You’ll spend a few hours on a bus to take the hike, which lasts about an hour.
  • Rajucolta: A 7-km (4.3 miles) hike to a beautiful glacial lake
  • Wilcacocha: 7.6 km or 4.7 miles is all you need to find yet another amazing glacial lake near Huaraz!

Huaraz is a cool town with lots of backpackers and hikers. So it’s easy to find a guide, information on how to arrive to trails, and hiking buddies.

Always stay well-hydrated at these altitudes. Avoid alcohol and caffeine initially, and consider an over-the-counter medicine to avoid altitude sickness.

Finally if you want to try a shorter multi-day hike to prepare for Huayhuash I recommend Santa Cruz, yet another hike recognized as one of the best in the world!

Glacier with person approaching. Pastoruri
Pastoruri glacier. Photo by Willian Justen de Vasconcellos on Unsplash

How to Prepare Mentally for Huayhuash

Whether you think you can or can’t, you’re probably right (Henry Ford).

Remember it’s tents outside every night when you hike Huayhuash. There are no showers and toilets are waterless. So, it’s, ahem, rustic.

If you’ve prepped enough physically, you’ll know. And just knowing may be enough. Of course, who you go with is crucial. When the air is thin, the weather cold, and my legs tired, I always want the most positive people around me.

Finally, just enjoy the hike. It’s not a race, and instead of rushing through and tiring out on Day 4, take your time and set a good pace.

How to Book Huayhuash

Responsible Tourism Professionals

Our friends, Hombres y Montañas (Men and Mountains) have worked in Huayhuash for generations. They are a family company and are professionals in responsible tourism.

Connect with them on Facebook to find out more and make a reservation.

Best time of the Year to Hike Huayhuash

May to September is the best time to hike Huayhuash because the rainy season has ended by about mid-May. The best time to go is late May and June. The vegetation will still be green and it doesn’t get as cold at night as in July or August, which are also the most popular months for trekking in the area.

Avoid traveling in the rainy season from November-April, when landslides are common and accommodations can be hard to find.

Where to Stay & Eat in Huaraz

The backpacker classic in Huaraz is Churup.

Cafe Andino and California Cafe are spots to check out for relaxing with a good book and coffee or coca tea.

There are lots of options for Peruvian food and nightlife, with 13 Buhos perhaps the best spot to grab a drink.

What to bring

The Essentials

Obviously, trekking equipment (and climbing gear if that’s your thing). For a hike similar to the one above, you should have this equipment at a minimum:

  • Backpack with water cover
  • Rain poncho, especially if it’s not June-September
  • Rainproof tent
  • Sleeping bag
  • Waterproof hiking shoes or boots
  • 2 pairs of hiking pants
  • A couple of short sleeved shirts (the weather can get surprisingly warm)
  • 2 long sleeved shirts
  • 1 set of pajamas
  • A bathing suit for Viconga and its hot springs
  • Down jacket
  • Sandals to let your feet breathe when not hiking
  • Sunglasses
  • Quick dry travel towel
  • Head lamp
  • Toiletries, including sunscreen and hand sanitizer
  • Medicine kit
  • Straw filter or similar products
  • Travel medical isurance
  • Snacks! Coca leaves are great for altitude too
  • A GPS if going alone

Nice-To-Haves

You may want to consider these, depending on your preference and how much you want to bring.

  • Solar charger for smartphone
  • Extra camera batteries
  • Trekking poles
  • Sleeping pad
  • Thermos
  • Emergency oxygen

TIPS: It’s common to rent equipment in Huaraz, or to even buy used equipment. Most agencies provide some or most of the equipment written above.

Weather

Sunset over lake and snowcapped mountains. Hike Huayhuash
Huayhuash in the morning. Photo by David Torres on Unsplash

The temperature goes down to 0-2 C (32-36 F) at night and is coldest in July. But it goes up to 20C (68F), even at high altitudes, at daytime.

Expect lighter rainstorms in May and Oct. From June through September, known as “Andean summer”, you can get clear blue skies all day, every day.

Huaraz gets up to 20C (68F) during the day and will go down to 5-6C (40’s F) at night.

How to Get There

Buses leave regularly from Lima to Huaraz all day. The trip takes 8 hours. Huaraz has an airport but flights are not always regular.

From the north, buses from Trujillo and Chiclayo go to Huaraz, too.

Cost

The cost of hiking Huayhuash is going to depend on a lot of factors, especially number of days and what’s included. Depending on price, agencies may provide 3 square meals a day, a tent, sleeping bag, a team to carry supplies, cooks, entrance to the communities’ campsites, and transportation.

Having said that huge caveat, you can expect to more or less pay these amounts for Huayhuash:

  • 3-day tour: $300
  • 9-11 days: $500-650
  • 15-18 days: Up to $1,400
  • Personalized 152km (95 mile) hike: $4,000

If going alone, make sure you pay each community for using the trail and campsites. Remember that only ONE community (Huayllapa) has shops, so you’re not restocking daily.

And expect to pay in cash.

These communities provide the following campsites:

  • Huayllapa: Viconga, Guanacpatayand Huatiaq
  • Llámac: Cuartewain and Jahuacocha 
  • Pacllon: Qashpapampa and Jahuacocha 
  • Pocpa: Pocpa
  • Queropalca: Mitucocha and Carhuacocha
  • Quisuarcancha: Carhuacocha
  • Siula Grande: Base camp
  • Tupac Amaru: Huayhuash 
  • Uramaza: Viconga lake and hot springs  :)

Conclusion

Huayhuash is among the best hikes in the world, and it’s way less crowded than Peru’s most famous hike, the Inca Trail.

Definitely consider it if adventure is in your blood. Just make sure to acclimatize to the altitude and to prepare your body first.

Again, the mountain chain’s preservation depends on local communities, so be sure to leave no trace and respect the people and wildlife. To get the most out of your trip and hike Huayhuash, check out our partners at Hombres y Montañas Huayhuash (Facebook). These guys are responsible tourism professionals who focus on adventure tourism in Ancash.

Unless otherwise noted, all photos by our friend Erick Bernabe from Hombres y Montañas. Muchas gracias, Erick!!

Gocta Waterfall- A Review of Our Hike

Gocta waterfall.
Photo by Elemaki – Own work, CC BY 3.0, //commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3335925

Reasons to Visit Gocta Waterfall

Don’t Miss How to Visit!

Depending on who you talk to, the waterfall of Gocta in Amazonas, Peru is anything from the 3rd to 17th tallest in the world. The strange thing about this is that Gocta, locally known as “La Chorrera”, is considered the same height by most accounts. The waterfall is composed of two cataracts that together measure 771 meters (2,530 feet). Adding to the mystery, other scientific data of the area is pretty easy to find and not under debate. For example, nearby Yumbilla Falls, officially recorded in 2007, doesn’t suffer from a similar controversy. To visit Gocta, one treks through a cloud forest ecosystem for a few hours, where they can spot 21 other, smaller waterfalls in addition to 110+ species of birds, monkeys, and even the elusive spectacled bear. 

This biodiverse area is where frigid Andean waters gush down steep mountainsides, unstoppable on the way to their destination in the Amazon rainforest. The area is almost as wealthy in wildlife and waterfalls as the capital, Lima, is in horn-blaring taxi drivers. Obviously, we had to make the hike to the enigmatic Gocta and see this mysterious waterfall in person.

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Dust before Thunder

We had to take a bus to the town of Cocachimba from our hotel in Chachapoyas in order to start the hike. An unpainted school bus picked us up at 8am, uncharacteristically punctual for Peru. From there it was an hour of going downhill, into warmer, more tropical, mosquito-filled climates.

Throughout the hike from Cocachimba you can hear Gocta beckoning you. The waterfall is visible from town, incredible considering that Gocta wasn’t officially recorded until 2002. At the beginning of the hike you can barely hear the whisper of the falls. The morning breeze is relatively cool, tropical vegetation covers the ground, and women sell fresh juice for S/ 1. It’s very pleasant. 

After an hour or two of going over wooden bridges, stepping over leaves, and hearing the chirps of exotic birds, the noise of Gocta is undeniable. But now the falls hide from view- it’s like you’re playing hide and seek with the colossal cataract. This is another enigma of Gocta- the closer one gets, the less likely it seems to be able to spot it. 

Near the end of the hike, Gocta reappears from the foliage.
Gocta reappears near the end of our hike. Photo by J0EL 20001 – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, //commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=74794371

The last twenty minutes were the most difficult. We were under a hot sun and anxious to arrive at the falls after so many games of peek-a-boo. The vegetation stopped covering the path, which was now dry. We could spot groups of tourists ahead simply from the dust clouds. At one point Gocta seemed to quit hiding from us, until we took another curve around the mountain and it again disappeared. This time the accordion of time stretched out, with each step reminding us of the heat and sun. I slightly worried about returning since my water source was under half-full.

Then, just as magically as it left us, Gocta reappeared, with its mist creating a thundering force that drowned out conversation. At 200 ft (65 meters out) the falls sprayed our glasses and blurred our vision. It was raining sideways! I had to yell to ask my wife and her sister if they wanted to get closer. They shook their heads no.

But I had to go. I wanted to get as close as possible to this recently discovered secret of Amazonas. This was a waterfall unknown to the outside world less than twenty years ago. Still today there weren’t many tourists on the path. We were part of a lucky few.

About 200 feet (65 meters) from Gocta, you feel the cold mist from the powerful falls.
About 200 feet (65 meters) from the falls. Photo by Pitxiquin – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, //commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=59769466

The first dozen steps were fairly easy. Gocta is surrounded by rocks, and at about 75 feet (23 meters) out my boot slipped slightly. Soon it was like trudging through a rainstorm on top of a perilous slip-and-slide. I could see the mist ahead was getting more blurry, so I took off my glasses. It didn’t help. At 50 feet (15 meters) I stopped, having slipped two more times despite carefully planning each step. Gocta was not going to permit me to get closer, much less enter the pool underneath the falls. 

Ahead was only mist and thunder. I stood for a minute and replenished my weariness in Gocta’s cold, energizing waters. I was no longer thirsty or tired. A smile involuntarily crept across my face. We made it.

Chuchuhuasi

The walk back was as dry and hot as expected, even though I started off soaking wet. I made it back relatively quickly, in under 3 hours. My mind was set on lunch.

I wasn’t disappointed. The soup in Cocachimba was one of the most replenishing meals of my life. The three of us shared a table with an older man and his daughter, who we recognized from the busride earlier.

The restaurant was pretty standard for rural Peru; cement floors, a chalkboard announcing the day’s menu with 5 set options, and Inka Cola sharing shelves with Coke. Most of the decorations were photos taken from the annual calendars of Cocachimba. Gocta featured prominently in many of the photos, giving the impression that the cataract had been world famous for decades.

The chalkboard had a dish of which I had never heard: Chuchuhuasi. I asked the old man what this was. The old Japanese-Peruvian smiled widely, creases deepening around his eyes and in his forehead. The man, who rode a horse on the trail to Gocta, made a noticeable effort to stand up and yell over another table to order 2 chuchuhuasis. I was so hungry that I didn’t mind eating more, considering how delicious the meal must be.

Before I got to ask what it was, two shot glasses were on the table. The man lifted one, matching his dark-brown eyes with mine. “Chuchuhuasi!” he exclaimed. I lifted my glass, careful not to spill the transparent liquid, as it was close to the brim. It went down in one shot, tasting vaguely like an herbal tea before the overwhelming aftertaste of moonshine. I felt instantly buzzed. The old man was ecstatic. Afterwards he told my wife chuchuhuasi is an aphrodisiac. He found this hilarious.

As our trip ended, I got up from our table and closed the menu to give to the waitress. Only then did I notice the restaurant’s claim to fame: “Cocachimba, hogar de la catarata mas alta del mundo!” Cocachimba, home to the world’s tallest waterfall.

At least in Cocachimba, the mystery is settled.

How to Get to Gocta Waterfall

Far-away shot of Gocta, with Cocachimba underneath.
By Srooose – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, //commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=75690105

Transportation

To get to Gocta you first have to go to Chachapoyas, the cobblestoned capital of Amazonas. “Chacha” is a 1 hour flight from Lima. Cruz del Sur and Movil provide bus services, too:

Destination Trip LengthCost*
Chiclayo9 hrS/ 56-76
Lima 22-23 hrS/ 130-165
Trujillo12-14 hrS/ 65-85
As of 4/23/2020

Smaller buses and share cars (collectivos) leave from Cajamarca (12 hr) and Tarapoto (8 hr), too.

Any tour agency will take you to Gocta from Chachapoyas. Normally you make a reservation the day before, and they pick you up the next morning.

You can also take a bus combi from the terminal terrestre in the morning. Go to Puente Cocahuaico, a one hour ride that costs S/ 5. From there take a mototaxi to Cocachimba to see the bottom of Gocta, or to San Pablo to hike to the first cataract. Each hike takes roughly 6 hours roundtrip. The mototaxi will cost S/ 10-15.

Note: One US Dollar is equal to about 3 Peruvian soles.

Price

The entrance to the hike costs S/ 20.

Where to Stay

You can usually find triple in Cocachimba or San Pablo for roughly S/ 50. If you go from June through August, consider booking ahead of time since this is Peru’s high season for tourism.

If you stay in Chachapoyas like we did, check out Chachapoyas Backpackers.

Next Steps

Check out my tips for getting ready for your trip to Peru. It’s never too early to starting planning :)

Leave a comment if you’ve been to Gocta waterfall or are interested in going!

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Gracias y buen viaje!!!!