Tag: Peru

Travel to Peru: All You Need to Know to Plan the Most EPIC Trip

This is a refreshingly rugged, culturally-rich land that offers a top-notch food scene and an endless menu of outdoor activities. The vertiginous Andes provide some of the best hiking experiences in the world (and seriously scary bus rides). You may already know that Cusco and Machu Picchu are the main draws with their cultural and historical significances. And because of this, most tourists head directly to Southern Peru.

Now, Southern Peru is objectively amazing, but below I’ll explain why you should also visit areas outside of the “gringo trail”. The diversity of cultures, wildlife, and climates in Peru create opportunities for memorable experiences all over the country and not just in one region. Because of this, your trip for Peru just may be the most memorable you’ve ever had.

But before you travel to Peru, make sure you are properly prepared. This includes picking the place or activity you simply cannot miss and having enough time (and cash) to do so. This article includes everything you need to get started.

Best Time to Travel to Peru

Generally the best time to travel to Peru is from May to September, as you’ll avoid the rainy season in the Andes and the jungle. Unfortunately these months are Lima’s cloudiest and chilliest. The Northern coast is warm and sunny year round.

If you’re looking for awesome discounts, the rainy season is ideal. But you’ll have to be flexible because roads and trails often close due to the conditions. The sweet spot for cost and convenience are the shoulder months- April and October.

How Much Money do I Need?

Unfortunately, this is a loaded question with no straight answer. The amount of money you need to visit Peru will depend on the choices you make:

  • Will you stay in a hotel with a private bathroom, or a shared-bedroom hostal?
  • Will you take a plane between cities, or are you OK taking it slower and going by bus?
  • How many days do you plan to be in the more touristy cities compared to places that rarely have visitors?

More than anything, pick the one or two activities you MUST do when in Peru. This may be visiting Machu Picchu (including train tickets), hiking the Inca Trail, or surfing in Mancora. Budget for these must-do activities and ensure you have enough for lodging, food, souvenirs, and transportation.

As a general guide, these are the average prices for things in Peru:

  • Budget hotel room (not shared): $30
  • Lunch: $5-8
  • Cocktail: $3-4
  • Overnight bus ride (7-9 hours): $10-35
  • Intercity plane ticket: $50-150
  • Souvenirs: varies; a comfy hand-made alpaca wool hat can go for $5-8

Prices are almost always in Peru’s currency, the Nuevo Sol, but US dollars are accepted. One USD is worth 3-4 soles depending on the current rate.

Haggling is typical in markets, but don’t expect the price to drop by more than about 5-15%. Tipping is only expected in restaurants in big cities, and in those cases 10% is enough. In other cases, it is always appreciated but not expected.

Finally, have cash on hand, especially in small towns and rural areas.

How Much Time do I Need?

Machu Picchu llama

Peru is over three times larger than Italy, and its crazy geography means you won’t find any transportation remotely like the high-speed trains of Europe or Japan. Because of this, we recommend picking a region and staying there for a bit. This provides a richer, more immersive experience, and you’ll avoid feeling you’ve been in a plane/bus/car the entire trip.

Also, if you visit the Andes (and you SHOULD), anyone coming from a lower altitude must take a day or two to adjust before hiking or other activities. Add a couple of days to your time in Cusco or whichever Andean city is first on your itinerary for this.

Finally, to answer the question: We recommend 10 days as the absolute minimum for visiting Peru. That’s because the country is large, not particularly easy to get around, and offers so much to enjoy.

Travel to Peru: Requirements

Vaccines for Peru

In addition to routine vaccinations, you should be up-to-date with the following vaccines:

  • Hepatitis A & B
  • Measles
  • Rabies
  • Typhoid
  • Yellow Fever (especially if traveling to the jungle)

People going to certain areas of the jungle should take anti-malarial drugs, too. Always consult a doctor before traveling.

Visa Requirements for Peru

People from the Andean Community countries, European Shengen area, USA, and Canada can visit without getting a visa ahead of time. The same goes for Ireland, the UK, most of South and Central America, and the Caribbean.

Peru’s Foreign Relations Ministry has an updated list of visa-free countries here.

Packing List

Each geography and climate is so drastically distinct in this country that your packing list will depend on the exact destination(s) you have in mind. Having said that, there are a few basics that you’ll need regardless of your destination or activity. Read our full article on what to pack for Peru for more info!

Where to Visit in Peru

The Big-Ticket Spots

The torreon (tower/turret) at Machu Picchu

Let’s start with the most-visited destinations in Peru. In general, there is more tourist infrastructure at these locations, although during the peak months of June-August the most popular spots get more crowded than a college party with free beer.

It’s not all just crowds, though; each of these is popular for good reason, and less-touristy spots are never too far away.

Arequipa

Peru’s 2nd-largest city sits at 7,661 feet above sea level in a valley surrounded by volcanoes and snow-capped peaks. Arequipa is considered to be safer and cleaner than Lima (and it may even have better food, if that’s possible!). Nearby, the planet’s two deepest canyons (Cotahuasi and Colca) provide terrific treks through traditional villages and world-famous condor viewing.

Tip: If you’re going to Southern Peru, head to Arequipa before Cusco or Puno. This way you’ll acclimatize to the altitude more gradually.

Chachapoyas

“Chacha” has gradually received more tourists in the past decade, especially since its airport opened. The cobblestoned city is a beautiful base for visiting archaeological sites such as Kuelap, which is the most impressive Chachapoyan site that we know of today. Day hikes to some of the tallest waterfalls in the world are a most awesome highlight, too.

Cusco

If you’re going to travel to Peru, then the ancient Incan capital has to be considered. The city is a time machine; its pristine historic center is nearly identical to its look 500 years ago. From Cusco you can venture into the Sacred Valley and on to Machu Picchu.

Tip: Make sure you tour the city, including making time to visit the museums, nearby archeological sites and the Qorinkancha temple before trekking to the Lost City of the Incas. And eat a sopa verde when the evening gets cold.

Huaraz

Much like Chachapoyas, Huaraz doesn’t receive the same amount of attention as Cusco and Lima. But this place is a trekker’s and climber’s dream. The standout hikes are the resplendent, 4-day Santa Cruz and the multiday Huayhuash. Day trips to glacial lakes and a visit to Alpine-like Huaraz National Park are perfect for anyone looking to sleep in a hotel bed every night.

Tip: Take a comfy, overnight buscama from Lima, and you’ll get a decent enough night’s sleep without losing a day of travel (or paying for a hotel)!

Ica, Paracas and Nazca

This area just south of Lima is packed with pisco, sandboards and a literal desert oasis. You need to take a plane to see all of the mesmerizing and enigmatic Nazca Lines, although you can spot some of them from towers in and around Nazca.

Tip: Take a bus to Ica from Lima (4-5 hours), then hit the road to Arequipa afterwards.

Iquitos

Smack-dab in the middle of Northern Peru’s Amazon, this is Earth’s largest non-road-accessible city. Most people fly here, but rugged and adventurous (or crazy) types take the boat.

Lake Titicaca

At 12,507 feet above sea level, this is the world’s highest navigable lake. The scenery is striking, the weather brisk, and the culture captivating. Most people agree that the Bolivian side is better, but don’t overlook the floating Uros islands. Even better, consider staying with a local family in Taquile or Amantini island for a cultural experience, and a night sky, that you’ll never forget.

Lima

Peru’s cluttered capital is often depressingly cloudy and just not as enticing as its Andean and Amazonian counterparts. But you’ll probably arrive here since those other cities don’t have large international airports. Prepare to be pleasantly surprised with the seaside neighborhoods of Barranco and Miraflores- oh, and the continent’s most famous food scene!

Machu Picchu

mist coming over stone structures with green peak in background. Machu Picchu

Almost every visitor makes it to Peru’s (and perhaps South America’s) most recognizable spot. And we have entire articles about not only Machu Picchu, but the treks to and within the site as well. The best recommendation anyone can give is this: make sure you have plenty of time at the actual site of Machu Picchu when booking your hotel and train tickets!

Mancora

Peru’s most popular beach hangout is a great surfing spot. It’s warm and sunny all year, and the party never stops. Towns just a few kilometers north and south of Mancora provide a more intimate experience.

Manu/Tambopata

The heart of the Peruvian Amazon is a short plane ride from Cusco and Lima. You’ll get the chance to learn how the locals survive and thrive in the world’s largest rainforest, and sports such as kayaking and hiking are popular. Definitely go with a guide and consider an all-inclusive lodge.

Sacred Valley

The area outside of Cusco is peppered with picturesque pueblos. Each has a claim to fame, from Incan sites that rival Machu Picchu to amazing, traditional textiles and colorful markets. There are some excellent hiking and mountain biking opportunities, too.

Tip: Avoid the Sacred Valley day trips from Cusco, unless you’re really into getting to know the insides of a Peruvian bus. Instead, spend a few nights in one of the towns such as Chinchero, Ollantaytambo, Pisac or Urubamba.

Off the Gringo Trail

When you travel to Peru, the most memorable moments could be far off the well-trodden routes referred to as “The Gringo Trail”. I’ll never forget chewing bitter coca leaves with ladies in bowler hats and ponchos, waiting for the pounding rain to let up as we crouched into a nook on the side of the mountain and they described their day-to-day life with me. Or sipping a delightfully dark artisanal coffee, sourced mere meters from my table, while the sun rose over the cloud forest and warmed my face.

Definitely go to the big-ticket spots that catch your fancy; you won’t regret it. But make sure to take a side trip to a place where tourism isn’t the main form of income for the locals. It’s a different, slower vibe, and you’ll feel the “real Peru” that the custom tour crowd misses.

Chiclayo

Pimental beach near Chiclayo

Go to Chiclayo for the nearby archaeological sites and museums, especially the Lord of Sipan museum. Local beach towns are popular among Peruvians, even though they don’t get international attention.

Tip: Take some time here on the way north if you’re going to Chachapoyas.

Huancayo

Huancayo is a sprawling city with a strong Andean identity. It’s surrounded by artesian villages, each of which has its own specialty, from silver jewelry to gourd carvings. A day hike to snowcapped Huaytapallana and mountain bike rides to the central jungle (Oxapampa) are excellent outdoor choices.

Tip: Huancayo is in the center of Peru, so take a bus from Lima, Oxapampa or Yauyos to easily add it to your trip!

Matucana

As you head eastward from Lima, Matucana marks the end of the dry desert foothills and the beginning of the Andean Sierra. It’s a charming town with a few solid hikes that always lead you to lakes or a waterfall. Your visit can be a long day trip or a nice 2-3 day break from Lima or even Huancayo.

Tip: It’s easy to find a bus, colectivo (shared taxi) or private taxi from Lima to Chosica. From there buses and colectivos leave for Matucana on a regular basis.

Oxapampa

“Oxa” is a popular vacation spot among Peruvians, but it’s still a secret to foreigners. The town is cradled in a verdant valley of the High Jungle, making the weather warm but not sweltering. Bavarian architecture and German breweries will make you second-guess what country you’re in!

Tip: Stay at an all-inclusive lodge just outside of town. Ulcumano has stunning scenery, great food and a menu of outdoor activities.

Yauyos

We saved the last one for those who REALLY want to rough it- in exchange for truly fantastic views and experiences! The Reserva Paisajistica Nor-Yauyos Cochas is both a mouthful and a literal Landscape Reserve. In other words, it’s being preserved because the land is considered to be so majestic (which says a lot in a country full of natural beauty). The story Ashincuy is from here, too.

Tip: You can visit from Lima, but it’s much safer to go via Huancayo. You’ll take a colectivo for the 3-4 hour trip.

The 5 Most Bomb-Ass Hikes in Peru

No doubt, Peru is a trekker’s dream come true. Every Andean town seems to have its own secret, ancient site with beautiful trails to explore. The vastness and beauty of the Andes mountains, the diverse ancient cultures being preserved in the towns along the trails, and world-class archaeological sites are enough to mesmerize and fascinate the most well-travelled hiker.

So no matter where you go, chances are you’re close to an amazing hike. This plethora of options is exciting, but if you need help narrowing down your choices, here are my top 5 hikes for Peru:

  • El Misti: This one is here because it’s a relatively easy one-nighter (and barely that). Summit a 19,101-foot tall volcano (don’t worry, it’s dormant) for vistas of the Arequipa landscape. Then skip or slide your way down the ash on the other side of the mountain, taking mere hours to undo the day-and-a-half climb you took. Trust me, it’s a hoot.
  • Huayhuash: Depending on the year and who’s doing the ranking, this hike on the “other side” of Huaraz is often ranked the world’s best.
  • Inca Trail: It’s the most popular hike in Peru for a reason! Summit mind-bogglingly tall peaks, explore Incan sites that escaped the destructive Spanish, and sleep under a sky with no light pollution on your way to Machu Picchu. We have all the info you need here.
  • Salkantay: Somehow Salkantay figures out how to be the Inca Trail’s even wilder brother. Check this one out for a more nature-based hike, which also ends at Machu Picchu.
  • Santa Cruz: This 4-day hike outside Huaraz has been known by the trekking community but not the “regular” tourist crowd for some time now. It’s a 3-4 day hike through the Cordillera Blanca, a mountain range for which superlatives wouldn’t do justice– you just have to experience it! Clever Hiker has a good guide, although it’s a bit dated.

The Best (Non-Hiking) Outdoor Activities

Canopy walks @ night!

Of course, hiking isn’t all there is to do for outdoor activities in Peru. Here’s a few examples of what else you’ll find in the country:

  • Canopy Walks: In the jungle, many lodges have hanging bridges that bring you right to the forest canopy. Totally worth a try, especially at night when the animals come out.
  • Paraglide: Especially in Miraflores in Lima. You go accompanied by a pilot, and you can often sign up the day of. Just walk up to the paragliders on the malecon; you can’t miss them.
  • Surfing: With some of the longest breaks in the world, Peru has excellent surfing spots. Lima and Mancora are the most popular for rentals and lessons, but there are dozens of chill surf towns along the coast.
  • Wildlife Viewing: Especially in the Amazon. Tours to the Macaw clay licks or Sandoval Lake in the Manu/Tambopata region are a good bet. So is the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve near Iquitos– they have PINK dolphins!
  • Zipline: The Cusco region and parts of the jungle have some exceptional ziplines over stunning scenery. The “Inca Jungle” hike to Machu Picchu and Ulcumano Ecolodge are good options to check out.

Is it Safe to Travel to Peru?

First and foremost, it’s always best to check with your country’s embassy in Lima for updated safety information.

The political tension and violence that resulted from protests have dropped considerably since early 2023. That means for travelers, Peru is pretty much as safe as it’s ever been (especially in areas that now depend on influxes of visitors such as Cusco and Lima).

You still want to be smart when you travel to Peru. Pickpocketing is the most common problem, and be especially careful with your passport. Keep valuables in a safe in hotel rooms when possible. Use your common sense, too; going down a dark street late at night isn’t a good idea anywhere.

Transportation

With the dangers of nighttime highway driving, narrow cliffside passes, and panic-inducing taxis, this deserves an article on its own. Which is why we wrote one.

Books to Read Before You Travel to Peru

Before you go, read up on Peru’s history and culture in order to have a fuller experience. My top recommendations are Last Days of the Incas by Kim MacQuarrie and Turn Right at Machu Picchu by Mark Adams.

We have a full list of recommended books for Peru here.

Travel to Peru: Conclusion

Peru is a top destination in multiple travel categories. It’s chock-full of culture and provides a range of outdoor activities, from the adrenaline to the awe-inducing. And much like other South American countries, it’s not terribly expensive to have a trip of a lifetime here.

The most difficult part of creating your itinerary to travel to Peru is picking where to go once in country. Long bus rides and expensive flights can make it unfeasible to visit each major region in one trip.

At the very least, it’s best to decide which part of Peru you’d like to prioritize. Which is why we’ve created sample itineraries focusing on three regions of the country:

  • Southern Peru offers the big-name options: Machu Picchu, Inca Trail, and the Amazon jungle, for example. Check out our Peru Bucket List itinerary to decide how you’d like to visit this part of the country.
  • Northern Peru is growing in popularity, especially for backpackers and surfers. This includes the jungle metropolis of Iquitos, beautiful Pacific beaches, and the Chachapoyas region. Our Northern Peru Sample Itinerary has all you need to get started.
  • Central Peru, unfairly overlooked in my opinion, is ideal for a more off-the-beaten-path adventure. The Bavarian jungle town of Oxapampa is here, as are the hiker’s dream (Huaraz) and the inscrutable Huancayo. You’ll wonder how this region receives so few visitors, and won’t be surprised if it doesn’t stay that way.

Now here’s one final tip: Peru is a truly fascinating place, and the more I visit, the longer my list of things to do there grows. Try not to be overwhelmed by the many choices of places to go, things to do, and foods to eat. Just enjoy the moment.

Let us know in the comments or by emailing GringoInca@gmail.com for any tips or specific questions on Peru. Thanks for reading!

-Brad

The Best Outdoor Activities in Lima!

unrecognizable paraglider flying over blue sea in clear sky

It’s no secret that Peru is an adventurer traveler’s dream, but even the most ambitious itineraries focus on Andean excursions or Amazonian experiences. Which means they ignore the country’s coastline- all 3,080 kilometers of it. This is a shame, because when you visit Peru, you’ll almost certainly be on the coast (specifically in Lima) to leave or enter the country. And while Lima is popular for very real and remarkable reasons, outdoor sports is not one of them.

But that’s not entirely fair. You can definitely have a memorable time outdoors in this city. It may be on a fantastically long surf break, at a pyramid built around the same time as those in Egypt, or in a unique ecosystem that feels worlds away from the desert. So here is the list of the best outdoor activities in Lima!

Outdoor Activities in Lima

Surf

ocean waves under blue sky and white clouds

Lima is one of the best places to learn to surf. That’s because the waves are long and easy to manage. If you already know how to surf, you can score a surfboard for S/ 25-35 an hour (roughly $7-10 USD). Just walk down from the malecón to the shore in Miraflores if you’re interested. You can ask for lessons there, too.

You’ll want a wetsuit. The Pacific is cold!

Bike

It’s easier and safer than ever to bike in Lima. You can rent a quality bicycle at Larcomar in Miraflores by the hour. In that time you can take the bike lanes towards the San Miguel neighborhood. This is an enjoyable, easy ride through parks and around tennis courts and soccer fields, with the ocean at your side the whole time.

There are also bike tours that include stops at local markets. You can book those at your hotel or online.

Short Hike- Lomas de Lachay & Lúcumo

The Lomas is a special ecosystem that is home to endemic vegetation and animals, and it’s made possible by the winter fog of Lima. With Lima being the 2nd-largest desert city on Earth, the Lomas are kind of an oasis.

The ones most developed for tourists (aka safest) are Lachay and Lúcumo. These are just outside of town, so plan a good half day around your visit. Lúcumo is closer, but Lachay is much bigger.

Paraglide

This is the most obvious outdoor activity, because the second you stroll around Miraflores you’ll spot paragliders taking off and swooping around the malecón like the condors in Colca. Gliders fly with a pilot, and it cost S/ 60 the last time I checked. You can literally walk up and glide, or reserve a spot for another day.

Archaeological Adventures!

short pyramid with flat top

The plethora of Peruvian archaeological sites tingles the imagination. You’ll see foreigners talking about local history and culture with the excited energy of an Indiana Jones (but with a guide and a smartphone). Even Lima has its pre-Incan pyramids, usually called Huacas.

Huaca Pucllana is popular and right in Miraflores. It’s also in the photo above! Other Huacas are less developed for tourists, and outside of touristy areas, possibly unsafe for visitors. Further out of town is the pre-Incan complex of Pachacamac, an ancient pilgrimage site.

Conclusion

high angle shot of the costa verde lima peru

Ok, I have to be honest. The first thing that comes to my mind when I think of visiting Lima isn’t the outdoor activities, but the fabulous food scene. The ceviches, comida criolla, and fantastic fusion of gastronomies are tops. And in 2023, the city has the number 1 ranked restaurant in the world!

But if you explore Lima, you’ll find plenty of outdoor fun to be had. After all, the weather is nice year-round. There’s no rainy season, and the temperature is consistently between 60 and 80 F (or in Celsius, 16 and 26). So you can enjoy any of these activities at any time of the year.

Have you done any of these activities in Lima? If so, mention below! Otherwise, hope you make it there soon!

Ulcumano Travel Anecdote

The full moon viewed from tree branches

We would have been stuck like flies in honey without the 4-wheeled drive transportation to Ulcumano Ecolodge. Bumpy, curvy, muddy- the offshoot road from Oxapampa had all the nausea-inducing necessities. Surrounding the single lane were countless trees that reached 60+ feet in height. Their narrowness suggested this land was converted to forest about a generation ago, and this was further suggested by small plots still dedicated to cattle and small agriculture.

The half hour took us to a cooler climate, and I put a longsleeved shirt on while observing the ecolodge’s entrance. A group of birders were walking on a trail. They had rain jackets, bucket hats, long pants and heavy-looking binoculars. They were speaking Spanish, likely Limenos given their accent. The men had salt-and-pepper stubble or short white beards. As a group they headed to a canopy walk, where they would gaze intently over bromelaids the height of buildings.

To the Cabins!

A tall, thin man meets us after we disembark. His name is Eduardo, and he is the owner of the ecolodge. Eduardo has a narrow face, short dark beard, and a quick diction. I notice sometimes he twitches, possibly from overthinking, as he explains everything to us on the walk to our lodging.

There are six wooden cabins with balconies, each separated from the rest by forest. A seventh is Eduardo’s family’s home. The cabins use solar power, and Eduardo tells us how to use the lights and shower. We take a turn off the main path, on stepstones that lead to our lodging. I hear what sounds like a mechanical “BEEP!”. Eduardo says it’s the white-eared solitaire, also known as the Telephone Bird for its unique song.

It’s the only telephone ring we will hear in our cabin. That’s because there is no internet or phone signal. The cabin is large, with two beds and several tall windows with white curtains. It smells of wood. The balcony dominates the building. It is on stilts, in order to better view over the trees and into the green montane forests that appear to breathe fluffy clouds into existence, like vapor over a body of water on a humid July morning back home. The clouds roll over the landscape. There is no sign of human activity anywhere.

Before he leaves the cabin I ask Eduardo if we should use insect repellant when outside. He pauses, then looks at us and says, “So many chemicals. Well, it is not my skin.” Then he shrugs and leaves.

Sia Cave

We had barely unpacked our bags when a knock is at the door. Eduardo invites us on a hike to a cave, a trek of about 2-3 hours. He has on his rainjacket. The rhythm of raindrops hitting its orange hood is steady. I do a quick look-around, and there is no sun piercing the foggy grey sky of Ulcumano. We agree to meet with the group at the ecolodge’s entrance in 15 minutes. Then Janina and I change into our rain gear, and we fill up our water bottles.

The trail cuts through Ulcumano’s 102 hectares to a little-visited cave called Cueva Sia. White and brown trees, much like the ones that greeted us, leer over and around us like palm-fingered oglers. Lichens cover their branches and the muddy path smells of fresh, wet leaves. Jurassic plants of up to 40 feet in height neighbor the path too. Because of the rain, it’s not very warm, but it’s not cold, either.

At one point we stop after Eduardo thinks he hears an animal munching up in the canopy. We gaze up, fat raindrops occasionally splashing our faces. We never spot the possible mammal or hear the munching again. But we do hear our invisible friend, the Telephone Bird.

The last section is muddier, steep, and downhill. We babystep to the cave’s entrance and can’t go far inside because the rocky floor is slippery due to a waterfall. We take some photos that don’t come out because of the lighting, eat a snack, and talk a bit before returning.

The hike to the cave took us over an hour, but the energized walk back, motivated by the prospect of a warm, dry lunch, only took 50 minutes.

Lunch!

The hike tired us out, and all one hears in the large cafeteria is the light clinking of plates, silverware and glasses on our wooden table as we chow down on homemade chaufa.

“Hijito!” Eduardo shouts as his wife enters the room with a small baby in her arms. Eduardo’s shoulders relax, and our twitchy guide is transformed into a smiling father, contently beaming with happiness.

Upon seeing Eduardo with his family, we decide to call our 2-year-old son. He’s with his grandparents back in the USA. But the wifi signal isn’t strong enough to make a connection, and the call fails.

The Telephone Bird blares out a few beeps as we leave the cafeteria.

The Night Walk

We spend most of the afternoon resting in the cabin and washing up. The group has decided to do the moonlit canopy walk after dinner. Dusk is slightly chilly, and the sun adds pink streaks to the orange and red hues streaking over the verdant hills. It fees like autumn back home.

Ulcumano’s canopy walk is a series of six cable bridges that are connected by 40-foot-tall platforms. We have on long sleeves and pants, and the moon provides enough light now that the clouds have finally departed. Upon reaching the top of the first metal platform we hook onto cables with carabiner clips. There are two cables, one on each side, and we’re clipped onto both.

We go single file onto the first bridge. I’m the last to go, right behind Janina, who pauses and stares at the cable.

“No worries, just one of these cables can hold an elephant!” our friend Matt encourages her as he glances behind from the bridge. Matt would know something like that. Janina steps onto the bridge, which feels almost as sturdy as the platform.

The moonlight beams onto the forest canopy, a mix of trees and fabulously tall ferns. It smells of fresh vegetation with a clean, crisp air. We flash our lights onto branches and treetops, but large mammals usually avoid those spots during full moons. And tonight they certainly are.

There are plenty of pauses in the conversations as we vainly search for monkeys, spectacled bears, and other animals. It’s tough to picture the Ulcumano of 18 years ago, when cattle grazed throughout the area. The first Ulcumano tree was planted after Eduardo bought the land. The lonely pioneer now has 1000s of siblings, each with its branches spiraling out like fan blades with small needles on the edges.

The Dream

Nature recovers faster than humans expect. The canopy walk is barely at the height of the forest’s top layer now; several years ago it was above everything. Top predators like falcons and bears have moved in, showing the ecosystem is strong again.

Maybe Eduardo is living The Dream. His family lives off the land which they’ve helped recover. But there is a cost. Their son stays with family during the week in order to go to school. And a degree of loneliness must be a part of everyday life. May it’s The Dream, maybe not. But if it is, I’m glad to be a part of it.

Despite not spotting one on the canopy walk, we DID see monkeys on this trip! This one ate the avocados of the tree next to our bungalow in Oxapampa. It threw leaves at me as I took photos.

Meditating on the Inca Trail

man looking towards thatched stone huts and group of 3 women. Meditating on the inca trail

They say a shaman ran the Inca Trail in a quarter of the time that it takes a normal person to hike it. He channeled the spirit of a puma, and with feline nimbleness swiftly ran across bridge, trail and even cliffside with no fear of danger.

Maybe it’s true. What is certain is that the Inca Trail and surrounding area in Cuzco attract types who are into spirituality, both New Age yuppies and shamans alike. Streets in Cuzco cater to tourists’ interest in mysticism with everything from crystals to ayahuasca ceremonies.

Indeed, Cuzco is considered a sacred city in the Incan tradition. Even without that background, one can imagine how long hikes in stunningly beautiful environs can be a kind of spiritual experience. Or at least, to borrow from what’s trending in 2023, good for your mental health.

We sit around a large wooden table in the well-lit dining room at Nino’s Hotel with our tour company’s owner, Carlos, the evening before the hike. It’s just us and a couple dozen plants, our voices echoing in the well-lit room.

Carlos looks the part of professional tour operator in Cusco. He’s tanned with dark hair, clean cut, wearing a company jacket, and exuding confident wisdom. Besides that we have to pay the remaining balance before beginning the Trail, Carlos insists on spending a good hour to provide tips and advice.

The packing list he presents is longer than the trail itself, and includes items you’d never think necessary, like ear plugs. But Carlos covers all his bases, and sagely notes that tourists often regret ignoring the advice of locals.

He knows what he’s doing. After our eyes glaze over upon noticing the list’s shocking length, Carlos finally offers to include a porter. One of us audibly sighs from relief, then we thank him and pay the remaining balance.

Something we all understand is the privilege we have to go on this hike. Only 500 people a day are allowed on the Inca Trail, including porters and guides. This is why it’s recommended to book a spot months in advance.

There are various options, ranging from the “classic” 4-day to “alternative” treks throughout the region. The 2-day Short Inca Trail is ideal for travelers with little time or who don’t want to camp. It’s the only alternative to the classic 4-day version that also takes you directly to Machu Picchu, and not to Aguas Calientes, the cramped Andean village that sits in a narrow valley and buses visitors to the archaeological site all day.

So we choose that option. Our trek will be a 7.5-mile excursion on the final section of the Inca Trail. We’ll stroll right into Machu Picchu, then sleep in a comfortable hotel in Aguas Calientes. The following day we’ll have a full tour of Machu Picchu.

Carlos was right about at least one thing. Our hotel actually prepared hot breakfast with coca tea, which was ready just as we were trudging out the door at 3:25am.

Km 104

With bagged breakfasts in hand and daypacks over our shoulders, we load onto a tour van. A 90-minute bumpy ride to Ollantaytambo precedes the smoother train ride into much warmer climes. Our guide, Abraham, is already with us.

Abraham has the rare combination of experience and energizing enthusiasm for his job. Like Carlos, he’s tanned, clean cut, and with short black hair. But Abraham is a bit older, maybe in his 40’s, and has the build of someone who is constantly on the Trail.

His voice is energetic for 3:30 in the morning as he reviews our itinerary and explains why he loves this particular trail. All trekkers on the more popular 4-day option arrive to the Sun Gate together at dawn on Day 3. But hikers on the 2-day Inca Trail go at their own pace, so each group arrives at a separate time, enjoying a more intimate moment.

Our train arrives at Kilometer 104 right before my eyelids shut for a deep sleep. It’s warm and the train windows are slightly foggy from the lower altitude’s humidity. After crossing the rushing Urubamba River on a wooden footbridge we change into lighter clothes and put on mosquito repellant with DEET, one of the numerous items on Carlos’ list. There are other groups at the trail entrance. The sounds of people chattering, hurrying to the bathrooms, and spraying repellant take over the scene.

sign in wooded area with trail to the right
Starting point of the Short Inca Trail

The hike starts off lush and green. Abraham is in the lead and is wearing the red company windbreaker and sunglasses. Well before getting into a decent walking rhythm we reach the first site, Chachabamba.

It’s the least visually impressive site of the day, but Chachabamba provides a look into the lives of everyday people at the height of the Incan Empire. It has a few roofless stone homes and storage buildings which are smooth to the touch. Like all Incan buildings, the stones are cut perfectly into each other with no mortar. There is what remains of an ancient ceremonial structure in the middle, facing the imposing, verdant mountains on the other side of the narrow valley.

Abraham steps in front of this structure and explains Incan culture, including traits that continue to this day. The rushing sounds of the Urubamba and an occasional far-away train whistle accompany his words.

“Ayni. Quechua for reciprocity,” he states, his shoulders slighter taller than before. It’s not a perfect translation; Ayni is a custom in small Andean villages of providing to anyone in need, and not expecting anything in return. It is part of a communal culture where everyone can expect food and a place to sleep at night. Abraham believes such practices made the Incan Empire unique, and actually superior, to contemporary conquering states.

The hike really begins after this educational moment. The first part of the Short Inca Trail is narrow and incessantly uphill. It’s warm and the trail is dusty dry. A fire took out the vegetation, and the only chance for escape from the sun, on this mountainside. Our necks gently glisten from sweat below wide-rimmed hats (also on Carlos’ list). The Urubamba very slowly moves away from us from below, beginning a lengthy decrescendo. It’s barely noticeable over the group’s voices, breathing, and crunching over dirt and rocks.

two people on mountain trail. Yellow-brown vegetation. Green mountains in background with blue sky

It smells… fresh.

The Trail coils up, hugging the Andes like a humongous mystical snake. For a short while we trot along a cliffside. I stop and look over my right shoulder. The sun seems noticeably hotter than a moment ago, and my mouth is dry . The thought of falling floods my brain and paralyzes me. I feel weak in my ankles and knees, convinced that my next step could go awry and send me flying off the mountain.

We had been walking single file, so in a quick moment everyone notices I’ve stopped. Abraham seems to be interviewing me when he inquires, “Brad, do you have vertigo?”

I tell him no. The group takes time to encourage me and gives tips. I’m told the best way to walk these parts, is to not think about the worst that can happen, and to literally look at your next step before taking it.

Just take it one at a time. Just think about your next step, I’m told. It sounds childish but ends up working. Abraham takes my backpack and starts carrying it along with his.

One heavy step after another, I carefully follow the rest of the group. Abraham is right ahead of my wife, Janina. My attention is on their conversation and the next spot to place my foot. We learn that Abraham has spent decades showing visitors Cusco, Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley. He’s probably done this specific hike a hundred times. His son used to join him, but didn’t love being a tour guide enough to make it into a career.

man going up stone steps on mountainside

Eventually I notice that the mountainside is considerably less steep. In thirty minutes we are traipsing around lush, lively tropical trees and bushes at a steady pace.

Wiñaywayna

There is a waterfall where we rest and freshen up for a few moments. The water is cold enough to make one shiver, even after sweating in the sun for the past couple of hours. After this the trail expands and is formed by larger, more intricately-carved stones. The Incas constructed trails to be wider and more elegant as they approached places of importance. The impressiveness of the road matched the importance of the spot.

Despite the trail’s widening and impressive stonework, there is nothing here. We’re still surrounded by lush jungle vegetation, with mountains and the Urubamba to one side. Soon, steep steps lead us to a gigantic boulder and then around it. Each step is just tall enough for discomfort, and the group breathes a bit heavier.

Except for Abraham, who walks up each with the same amount of effort as someone hopping on the subway back home. Janina is right behind him, chatting away. I’m keeping up with everyone, feeling relatively calm.

Then from behind the boulder, a super-sized stone citadel suddenly leaps into view. Winaywayna takes over our entire field of vision and wonder. The site was hidden so well that we could hardly be more surprised if an unpredicted eclipse had happened.

man walking along green terraces
Entering Winaywayna

This place is impressive on its own right, without the assistance of being near Machu Picchu. Its curved mountainside is perfectly terraced, and smooth steps take us to a stone temple of ten windows. Through one of the windows we can see the waterfall from earlier. Abraham explains that Winaywayna is Quechua for “Forever Young”.

man with hat and backpack walking in stone buildings
Strolling through Winaywayna

It’s no surprise that this location was likely an important place for agriculture, given the presence of hundreds of preserved terraces and the proximity to Machu Picchu. We take some photos and converse a bit before walking to the nearby lunch spot.

Temple at Winaywayna
stone knob in wall
Knobs and shelves, used for hanging clothes or belongings, are all over Winaywayna.

Gringo Killer to Intipunku

After an impressive meal, the group rolls on through the jungle at a healthy pace. The path continues to widen, now flat and partly shaded. Hummingbirds flit by on all sides, and we hear them as often as see them. Soon enough we arrive to the entrance of the park of Machu Picchu, where Abraham provides our documentation to a few casual-looking rangers at a kiosk.

entrance to machu picchu. Long red-roofed wooden hall
Official entrance to the Machu Picchu Reserve.

The Trail is even more impressive than before Winaywayna. I’m striding along strongly, once again carrying my backpack. We turn a corner, and there it is: a stupidly steep set of stairs referred to as the Gringo Killer. Our group goes up one at a time. Each person crawls with their hands at some point.

“DEATH!” our friend, Maria, blurts out upon reaching the last step.

Our porter, Jesus, walks up with the same uncomfortable look on his face as someone whose dog is about to do its business on the neighbor’s lawn. He doesn’t use his hands and isn’t breathing hard when finished. There is a platform at the top, but whether it’s to stop and appreciate the Andean landscape or recover from the ascent is uncertain. We use it for the latter.

steep stone stairway with man at tope
Jesus cheers me on at the Gringo Killer

Although the Gringo Killer isn’t the end of the hike, it announces the final approach to the archaeological site of Machu Picchu. Before we can catch our breath we are near Inti Punku, the Sun Gate. And just as Carlos promised, we’re alone.

The Sun Gate is the real entrance to Machu Picchu. It is a short, stony sentinel, sun-kissed and straddling a low mountaintop as it announces our arrival. Only now can we see the actual site of Machu Picchu below us.

The sun is a couple hours away from setting, so its rays almost perfectly fit through the gate onto Machu Picchu below. Hundreds of perfectly straight terraces surround ancient stone temples, storehouses, and homes. The thatched roofs and gold are gone, but besides that, much of the site is restored to how it was centuries ago.

Directly behind Machu Picchu is the peak of Huayna Picchu mountain. The Urubamba returns to the picture, snaking around below.

Machu Picchu. Incan stone buildings, green mountain behind.
Approaching Machu Picchu :)

We give each other sweaty hugs, smile, and take photos.

Machu Picchu

The relaxed downhill walk to the site takes about half an hour. From there everyone takes photos in the classic spot in the middle of Machu Picchu, with the thatched-roof Funerary Hut and Huaynu Picchu mountain behind. A crowd of visitors is there, so we have to wait our turns.

The only difficulty here is sneaking a snack without the lurching llamas noticing and demanding a bite. A few smart hikers have taken their shoes off so their tired feet can spread out and enjoy the grass.

author and wife at machu picchu. Stone buildings and green mountains in background.
Made it!! Machu Picchu’s main site is behind us, with Huaynu Picchu behind that. To the right is the Funerary Hut.

Today Machu Picchu is by far the best-preserved Incan site. Hundreds of visitors walk over its paths, steps, and through its buildings and trails, all of which have been preserved or recreated using the best knowledge available to archaeologists.

Following Incan building techniques, the site is part of the landscape. Huge boulders are carved in the shape of sacred mountains directly behind. The temple tracks the solstices, important times of the year for Incan religious and agricultural calendars. A person can explore for days here.

For me, the Trail was a timely lesson in mindfulness. Hiking one step at a time is a form of meditation; your focus is on the now and nothing else. Over a year of living in a large city during a pandemic, and my father’s recent near-death scare, had invisibly internalized a certain level of anxiety in me. Only later did I realize that overcoming my own thoughts to finish the hike was an inflection point to feeling like myself again.

I thank Abraham for carrying my backpack during the challenging vertiginous section of the Trail, and for helping me get through my own thoughts. Then I ask how he could carry both his and my backpack at the same time.

He still has sunglasses on but I can tell he’s meeting my eyes with his. Then he smiles and reminds me.

“Because I’m Inca.”

The Mysterious Ranza

By my eighth month living in the tiny town that topped the mountain named Vitis, I was beginning to get used to life’s daily monotony being shocked with sudden surrealness. Often this was a result from purely cultural differences; gringos don’t know what to expect in these tiny villages. That’s because our realities are reversed in many ways. Americans are always ditching the slightly-new for the absolute newest; in parts of the Andes, the ancient decides whether or not to allow the modern to move in.

This shouldn’t be a surprise. After all, the biggest attractions in Peru are based around the ancient Incan capital of Cusco, which overshadows the modern and fashion-forward Lima. Without Cusco, who would even think of visiting Lima? In the important Peruvian tourism industry, the old capital gives life to the new.

What Americans deem as old-fashioned dominates many aspects of Peruvian life. In Peruvian homes there is no debate about fast vs slow food; food from scratch is the best, and that’s that. And who can argue with Peruvian cooking?

It even seems as if the very nature of Peru decides what technology to accept. WIthout fail, major highways suffer damage and close down due to mudslides during the rainy season. But centuries-old Incan roads stay intact, thriving in the same harsh landscapes.

A Naive Gringo Goes to a Ranza

So it’s no surprise that practical modern advancements are overshadowed by much older traditions, or immersed in them, in the Andes. Such is the case of a Ranza ceremony.

It wasn’t easy to integrate in the 400-person village. But little by little, the coldness I felt from villagers melted into a sort of acknowledgement, accepting that I really was still there and hadn’t gone away yet. Even then, many just stared and nodded when I said hello. I had been promoted from invisible to a mute.

One of the exceptions was Adrian, friendly and helpful from the beginning. Adrian lived with his wife in an adobe house with a tin roof and dozens of guinea pigs which they raised to sell. On one of the first days of the dry season Adrian visited my new room with buckets of paint and two brushes. He announced that we were going to fix up my new home.

Like most of the men in Vitis, Adrian considered himself mestizo, and was short and tan, with deep dark eyes and a large chest. His mornings consisted of custodial work for the municipality, and in the afternoon he’d walk to the farm to attend to cattle or his agricultural plots. We passed the morning painting my one-room home, which included a sink and stove. During our conversation Adrian invited me to his family’s Ranza later in the week. I accepted.

But the thing was, I had no idea what a Ranza was. From what Adrian said, it seemed to have something to do with cows and tape. The word Ranza wasn’t in my English-Spanish dictionary, so my middling Spanish skills were all I had to use.

During lunch three days later I asked my host family what to expect, and they pretty much told me the same things as Adrian. A cattle owner has a Ranza every few years to change the tape on his cows, and he invites others to help. My confusion continued since I didn’t understand why cows would need tape. After lunch I trudged up the hill towards the path that led to the adjacent mountain, perplexed and in search of the Ranza.

I’d walked that path hundreds of times and never tired of it. It’s like Machu Picchu, and not just because everyone in Peru describes a place “like Machu Picchu” for tourist attention. The ancient abandoned town of Cochaswasi sits on a flat part of the mountain overshadowed by two peaks, which are hugged by rivers, similar to Machu Picchu’s geography.

But the reason I love this hike was it connected the perception of Vitis with its reality. Women with black blankets with colorful designs carried cheese, food, and even babies, to and from the terraces, and men carried tools and equipment. Every day there was something to do; move the maize, attend to the alpacas, bring the barley. To afternoon visitors looking for an open store or just a sign of humanity in the main plaza, Vitis was a ghost town. The villagers were on this path, on the way to making their living. On this dirt path surrounded by terraces, mountains almost tall enough to be snowcaps, and the clearest skies that brought storms right above your head, I was able to better understand Vitisinos.

After forty minutes I arrived to a celebration at the top of the mountain. The Ranza was a party. Faces from Vitis and unfamiliar ones shared bottles of beer, packets of cigarettes, and coca leaves as they talked and sang. A wrinkled old man in a bowler hat said something I didn’t understand, then handed me four faded green coca leaves. I stuffed them in the side of my mouth. The Ranza, a strange mystery mere minutes ago, was going to be a cultural experience. I was ready to jump in.

Looking around, for the first time I noticed Vitis was a community in the truest sense. People from different family groups, the ayllus, came together to assist Adrian’s family in changing the family’s cow’s ribbons. The word for tape, cinta, also meant ribbon in this context. Each family has a different type or color of ribbon to mark their cows (kinder to the cow than branding), and the ribbons fall off after a few years. Adrian paid his thanks by providing the booze, coca, cigarettes, food, and entertainment.

But the cows didn’t happily let people hold them down to change the ribbons. There was lots of yelling, mooing, and drunken stumbles as men picked out the next cow to chase, hold down, and change. It was a sight. And it turned out another practical application existed for the Ranza: the cows received vaccinations. As each cow received her new ribbon a veterinarian (presumably the lone sober celebrant) ran up, steadied his needle, and injected her in the right hide. The Ranza’s roots may be centuries-old, but that doesn’t mean new medicinal advances can’t be intertwined.

The cows themselves were dressed for the occasion. The oldest cow had a wreath made of orange, bread, and flowers. The belle of the ball. As she was held down I started to focus on the words of the song being played. There was one older woman banging a traditional hand-held tiña drum and singing. She wore a colorful wool blanket like a cape and was topped with a bowler hat.

I couldn’t make out any of the lyrics. I asked the man next to me what the song was about, and explained that I didn’t understand. Then he told me: the woman, Adrian’s mother, was singing a traditional song for the Ranza in her language, Quechua.

Nobody before wanted to admit to me that Quechua was used in Vitis, but here, when the pressure of the outside world to conform was nowhere to be found, Vitisinos expressed this event in the language spoken in homes. Here, the culture could breathe.

For the first time I was seeing the real Vitis. It had been months, but only now was I beginning to understand how much I still didn’t know. It felt similar to the beginning of freshman year in high school. And a passing invitation from a friend was the only reason I was there.

As is common in the Andes during a certain part of the year, afternoon rain clouds approached the multitude on the mountain. And here the weather dictates life. Buzzed from beer and coca, I didn’t mind the wet walk back, and hopped and skipped down the mountain to town. Soon enough I was putting on dry clothes and warming up water for instant coffee in my room.

By nighttime after the Ranza, the rain had stopped and the clouds floated away. I put on some music and walked about the dimly lit town wearing a heavy coat. It smelled of bonfire. At 12,000 feet above sea level with no light pollution, Vitisinos can almost touch the Milky Way. One can spot a dozen falling starts without trying.

It’s the mountains and flowing galaxy above at night that teach the longest lasting lessons for someone who wants to understand the Andes. Every civilization, every advancement, is just a slight, short-lived change in the landscape, barely noticed by these behemoths as millennia pass by. They were here before our civilization, and they’ll be here after it, too. And Vitis lies under watch of these sacred beings all day, every day.

In this context traditions like the Ranza still thrive. Yes, the vaccinations and ribbon-changing are necessary, but they can be done other ways. But why reinvent the wheel, when we are here for just a blip in time? Like the Milky Way and the mountains, traditions continue well past our mortal bodies, connecting us with generations long ago and with those to come. In an example of Andean magic, the Ranza vaccinates cows, strengthens communities, and ties centuries of people together in one afternoon, all before the rain starts.

Pineapples in Puno

ripe pineapple on gray rock beside body of water

The alpacas stared at us through the fence as we plopped off the plane. Adjacent to farms and lacking certain infrastructure such as sky bridges, Juliaca was not a typical international airport. Still, it was the gateway to Puno and the largest freshwater lake in the world, Lake Titicaca.

We were not planning to be the typical Titicaca tourists. Culture is the principal attraction to the lake from which the first Incas came. Nature and archaeological interests are high on most peoples’ lists.

Certainly the three of us were interested in the lake, islands, and people. But we were less than 3 years removed from college parties and had lots of time, and fun, to make up for. Two nights earlier a furious Frenchman yelled at us for being too loud while playing beer games late at night in our Miraflores hotel. The hotel moved us to a room further away from other guests. It worked out for everyone.

“Jesus christ,” Eric said with a narrowed brow while looking out the window. He was grabbing the top of his open window. “Brad, how do you even survive these car rides?”

By now I was used to taxi drivers in Peru. They swerve close to buildings, people, other cars, and even animals, without slowing down as they approach blind corners. I admitted it took some time, and that my iPod was a healthy distraction.

The “highway” to Puno from Juliaca was an almost-two-laned road that drove through communities of adobe buildings and your run-of-the-mill Andean farms. As if the airport alpacas were not enough to tell us we weren’t in Lima anymore, I had already lost cell phone service. Peace Corps provided us with cell phones, which used one of the two major phone providers in Peru. Maybe the signal would return once we got to Puno?

It was late so we grabbed dinner at a pizzeria on the one street that seemed to have restaurants in the city. We discussed what to do the next couple of days over uninspired pizza and some solid fries. Our game plan was to rest up and acclimate to the altitude. The next day we’d sleep in and check out Puno.

This plan would be broken up without our consent.

Delicious Jungle Pineapple, Also Other Disturbances

“Piña. Hay piña muy deliciosa de la sevla. Por un sol. Comprate tu piña”

The sun had not yet risen, yet a scratchy voice emanating from a cheap loudspeaker had been attempting to sell pineapple, apparently cheap and delicious pineapple, for forty minutes already, just outside our hotel room. He insisted the pineapple was from the jungle. As if it could be a local pineapple, miraculously grown at over 12,000 feet above sea level.

I looked over the two narrow beds between mine and the window to the main plaza in Puno. Eric’s head was covered in pillows which failed to muffle out the sound.

“Brad. What the hell is that guy saying”

Joe replied for me.

“He wants you to buy delicious pineapple”

“Goddamn it”

Eric did not want pineapple.

I explained that people get up earlier in the mountains and the man would hopefully leave soon, which he did. They started to sleep off the altitude, but again were interrupted with a parade by all of Puno’s schoolchildren. They marched around the plaza in formation to a band and music, also blared on loudspeakers. This only lasted about half an hour, after which the sounds of a building being destroyed commenced. Again, we couldn’t sleep in.

“BASTA YA!!” Joe yelled in no particular direction.

Enough already!

The altitude didn’t affect me, so I decided to help my friends and get to the root of this current clamor. The disturbance seemed, impossibly, to come from inside the hotel. Down the tight stairway to the second floor, I entered a hallway from where the obvious sound of hammer hitting tiles emanated. In a few steps I found a man holding a hammer, sitting in a half-destroyed bathroom. Piles of broken ceramic surrounded him. His clothes were covered in white and pink dust. I asked what he was doing.

“Rompiendo.”

Breaking.

Ah.

I asked if he could wait an hour, since it was still a little early and my friends were sleeping off altitude sickness. Next to a half-destroyed sink, he sat on his knees and put the hammer in his hands. His expression looked like I just asked him to show him Puno’s pineapple garden. Still, he agreed, and later we got out of bed around 8:30.

Day 1 in Puno

The day was slow, and Puno didn’t seem to offer much except a nice market and a lookout, to which we slogged over 500 steps and where we somehow offended an Aymara woman herding her sheep. She responded by throwing tiny stones towards us.

By evening we ended up at the same pizzeria as the first evening. Eric ordered pasta, announcing he wasn’t going to pay twelve soles for “that pizza”. With the lack of night life in Puno, our plan was to get plenty of rest for our boat ride on Titicaca the next day. And for the second time in as many nights, this plan would fail.

Headaches

The plan quickly fell apart after Joe spotted a $3 bottle of rum on our walk back to the hotel. Paired with a cheap Coca-cola knockoff, we were ready to party up in our room.

Eric decided not to participate. He already had enough of a headache.

A combination of hangovers and lingering altitude headaches made catching the boat tour the following morning an achievement comparable to finishing an Iron Man. I was definitely hung over. And Eric somehow still had a headache.

Joe, in complete silence, put on his boots and wool hat, and made a slow, painful walk to the hotel breakfast, sill in his PJs.

I poured him a coffee.

We miraculously made it to the all-day tour by 8am. Frigid air and a lake that went on beyond the horizon, like a calm sea, killed my hangover. The medium-sized boat stuffed in tourists, and the guide made the same bad jokes in Spanish and English with a raspy microphone just like the one used to sell pineapples.

Titicaca- Worth it?

a group of people standing on rock formation on lake titicaca in copacabana puno bolivia

To this point we weren’t very impressed with Puno or the boat tour. This worsened when we realized the one lifepreserver on board was actually an old tire.

But Titicaca was special. The floating reed islands of the Uros were our first stop. My boots sunk slightly into the squishy surface as the smell of wet straw surrounded us. There were yellow houses constructed with the hay-like ichu grass with solar panels on their roofs. Adjacent to the homes were women in bright, colorful garb cooking meals or sewing garments, none of whom paused upon our arrival. Puno was still within sight. Next we visited the island of Taquile, where we saw a folklore show, ate a late lunch, and walked around a bit.

Taquile is only 2.2 square miles in size, and less than 2,500 people live there. The stone path brought us up and down the small island to a lookout. The afternoon sun gave Titicaca a shimmer I had never seen on a body of water. It warmed me up, and I forgot we were 13,000 feet above sea level. A few fluffy clouds and a bright sky reflected on the lake.

On the walk back we again came into contact with a small herd of sheep, but the owner didn’t get upset this time. The six-year-old boy used a stick to shepherd the animals, and he took out a cell phone to make a call while passing us. We were in disbelief.

“Why does a kid need a cell phone on this tiny island?!” Joe exclaimed.

“What?! How does he have signal!?” I was perplexed and a bit jealous.

Shortly afterwards the sun set and the air became bitingly cold. But we chose to enjoy the last part of the tour on the boat’s outdoor deck, away from other tourists who were scared away by the temperature. Titicaca’s shimmer transformed by the minute as the sun lowered. We talked, joked and looked over the lake towards Bolivia, the Peruvian flag strumming in the wind above us. I think it was the best part of the trip.

We spent the last morning on another dusty highway ride, then arguing with airport officials on what counted as an acceptable form of ID. Eric’s altitude headache disappeared just before we boarded the plane back to Lima.

So we didn’t get to party much in Puno. But on the bright side, we only spent $3 on booze.

Is it Safe to Travel to Peru Right Now?

Because of our links to and love for the country, this is not an easy post for us to write. International media has correctly described the situation in Peru as chaotic, with massive demonstrations shutting down huge parts of the country.

First, our minds and hearts are with those suffering, especially those who have been affected by the well-documented, violent government response. This is not a sustainable situation and we worry about the future of the country.

But we also know many travelers are asking, is it safe to travel to Peru right now? To help you make the most informed decision, here are the best summary and recommendations we can provide at the moment.

What is Happening in Peru?

Here’s what’s gotten Peru to where it is today:

On December 7, 2022, President Pedro Castillo attempted to dissolve Congress. Instead, on that same day he was removed by that very same Congress. Castillo’s removal resulted in protests, mostly in the Peruvian south where he is popular. The national police responded to the protests with violence, and then the protests swelled in numbers.

The protestors are calling for the current president, Dina Boluarte, to step down and for snap federal elections. Boluarte and the Congress have not addressed the protestors’ demands enough to lower the tension.

As of February 26, over 60 people have been killed by the national police. None of the victims held a firearm. This is well documented by multiple human rights organizations and not an opinion.

This article on Wikipedia correctly cites multiple organizations (such as Human Rights Watch) who have condemned the government’s reaction to the situation.

How Has this Affected Tourists?

The Peruvian South, where protests have been largest, is also the most popular part of the country for tourists. Travelers have been directly affected by the situation.

Initially, 418 people were stranded in Machu Picchu after the train tracks were sabotaged. All of those affected were eventually brought home safely. 

Machu Picchu was closed until February 15th. Major airports have closed at some point, including in Cusco and Juliaca.

Juliaca (Puno/Titicaca) airport remains closed today, Tuesday February 28th.

This is a dynamic situation that can change. The Peruvian government, and Peruvian people in general, are open to tourism and generally go out of their way to make your stay as amazing as possible. But there is no guarantee that popular sites or nearby airports will stay open.

What Should You do if You Already Have Travel Plans?

Do you already have plans to visit Peru? Then confirm your reservation with any hotel, tour operator, and train service that you are going to use. Also consider delaying your trip, especially if you bought travel insurance.

What if You don’t Have Travel Plans?

First and foremost, be aware the situation can change- including road blocks, train schedule cancellations, airport closures, and police violence in areas of protest. Your safest bet is to wait 4-6 weeks to see if the areas you want to visit have calmed down.

And definitely buy travel insurance.

For All Travelers to Peru

We have general tips for staying safe when visiting Peru, which are especially relevant now:

  • Buy travel insurance! Yes, this is the third time we’re mentioning it.
  • Keep up to date with what is going on in the country. Solid news sources include Reuters, BBC, and the US embassy website //pe.usembassy.gov/news/. You can sign up for news feeds and embassy updates to monitor the security situation.
  • Regularly check the status of airports, especially in Arequipa, Cusco, and Juliaca (Puno/Titicaca).
  • Avoid at all costs any potential site of protest- these can vary so keep up to date on the protests. The situation is tense and violence has been an unfortunate, common theme.
  • Get registered on iPeru. This will help tourism authorities locate you if the situation worsens while you are in country.

Conclusion

Protests in Peru usually flare up and down fairly quickly. However this looks like an exception because there are specific demands which are not being met by the government.

We sincerely hope the next post on safety in Peru is more positive.

So, is it safe to travel to Peru right now? Honestly, not as safe as it was a year ago. But you could have a safe trip if you stay up to date on the situation and are both cautious and flexible. If you are thinking of visiting and have questions, please write us at GringoInca@gmail.com.

-Brad & Janina

The Short Inca Trail – All You Need to Know

Comparisons with other hikes in the region make the short Inca Trail seem like a Cusco cheat code. You take the world-famous Trail and arrive to the Wonder of the World that is Machu Picchu in only one day. That’s compared to 4 to 8 days for other Inca Trail options. But in reality this is a separate experience, complete with its own pros and cons.

So don’t be fooled by misconceptions that this trek is easy (it’s not). Or that it is lacks breathtaking views (far from the truth). Or, honestly, that this 2-day experience is cheaper (it is, but not by much).

Is the 2-Day Inca Trail Worth It?

Let’s start with the most common question on the Short Inca Trail. And our response is: Without a doubt!

This hike does not include the extreme heights and other highlights from the regular 4-day Inca Trail; however hikers pass through impressive Incan sites, a beautifully biodiverse Andean landscape and fantastically forested hillsides on this trek to Machu Picchu.

Also just like the longer version, this hike is on the official Inca Trail and includes memorable moments like the infamous “gringo killer” stairs.

Undoubtedly the longer hikes in the Cusco region provide payoffs that this shortened version cannot. But this is a wonderful and once-in-a-lifetime experience that is more than worth it for anyone who doesn’t have the time for (or doesn’t want to do) a 4-8 day trek.

Short Inca trail stop: Wiñaywayna. Stone houses with windows and no roofs.

The Classic, 2-Day Short Inca Trail to Machu Picchu: Our Experience

3:30 AM Wake Up

Our bumpy van ride from Cusco to Ollantaytambo’s train station started at 3:45 in the morning. We arrived to the train station at around 5:30 and ate breakfast. Like most hotels in Cusco do, Niños offered us breakfasts to go, with hot coca tea and all.

Eyes half-open, we received our train tickets from our tour guide and ascended the train. It was a 1 hour descent towards tropical climes and kilometer 104. I tried to keep awake and observe the landscape as it changed but only recall a sleepily green haze.

The only way to KM 104 is by train. The narrow valley is barely wider than the river itself, which is hugged by train tracks and trails on opposite sides.

A wire bridge brought us to the starting point, a bright site brimming with lush vegetation, backpackers and guides. We took off our sweaters. It smelled of chocolate and, near a certain group hikers, enough bug spray to kill off a species.

sign marker for Short Inca trail at the beginning (km 104)
Km 104- the starting point of our hike!

Chachabamba

Within minutes the trail took us to the first Incan site, Chachabamba. Chachabamba is a small site with a few houses and a spot for religious ceremonies in the center.

Abraham, our guide, took a moment to explain Cusco’s palpable Incan pride and some history. He explained the concept of ayni. This is similar to reciprocity in English. Ayni is the habit of helping someone, with the understanding that they will do the same for you when (or if) needed. Ayni permeates the way of life in the Peruvian Andes on a daily basis, as anyone who has found themselves lost in a small pueblo can confirm.

Practicing Ayni extended even to the Inca’s imperial endeavors. Newly conquered peoples were provided with better access to food and supplies, and could keep their languages and religions, in return for not warring with the powerful Cusco potentate.

The trail really begins after Chachabamba. For the next 1-2 hours we trudged uphill on a thin, dusty strip on the mountainside. A recent fire took out the vegetation, but surrounding us were green mountainsides, so close that they seemed huddled together like campers next to a fire on a chilly night. Our friend commented on the resemblance of this part of the Andes to the Alps in Europe.

Soon the train tracks were out of sight, but the powerful Urubamba was still visible and heard. Every once in a while a train whistle reminded us that Machu Picchu was not too far.

two hikers on side of mountain

WiñayWayna

Eventually the trail was covered by shade as we moved closer to river crossings and a waterfall. The splash of ice cold water on my face was invigorating and well-welcomed.

The Incas knew how to present. The path widens and stonework is more intricate as you approach an important spot. A dozen or so stone stairs worked our stride towards a 20-foot-tall boulder. As we moved around the imposing rock, Wiñaywayna stepped from hiding into view

Hundreds of terraces make up the entire side of a mountain. A housing complex and large sun temple sit atop everything. The circular temple’s windows align with solstices, the waterfall, and other celestial and natural points of importance.

We ate lunch right after. Our porter (who was also the chef) made guacamole, a quinoa dish, and dessert.

waterfall
man walking among green terraces
Walking among the terraces of Wiñaywayna
stone, circular, roofless temple with 10 windows
Temple of 10 windows at Wiñaywayna

From The Gringo Killer To Intipunku

The second half of the short Inca Trail is mostly flat or downhill, with one breathtaking exception. The path is wide, signifying something of spiritual significance approaches.

This was my favorite part of the trail. It rolls through green cloud forest, and hummingbirds of all sizes and colors flittered around us.

The pleasantness came to an abrupt end at the bottom of an impossibly steep stairway. Our guide explained we had arrived at the “Gringo Killer“.

Hearts pounded as we climbed, at times on all fours. The Gringo Killer stairs are slightly uneven but laid strong, making for easy gripping. But the easy conversation that had been going on since lunch was gone.

At the top our friend Maria exclaimed her true feelings. Breathless, she looked at us with wide eyes and sputtered out, “DEATH!”

Behind was a yet-unseen view of the valley, the Urubamba, and a handful of archaeological sites. We saw sections of trail that we had hiked earlier, now amber cords wrapped around monstrous mountains.

Soon enough we were at the Sun Gate, Intipunku. It sat on a ridge with rays of sun swooping through, announcing the presence of Machu Picchu like golden streamers.

The short Inca Trail is no small accomplishment. We were exhausted, we hugged other, took photos and had contented smiles. Then we began the short descent to Machu Picchu.

steep stone steps with man near top
The Gringo Killer stairway! No actual gringos were harmed during the shooting of this photo ;)

Machu Picchu Pueblo

Post-descent to Machu Picchu, it was photo time! Each traveler, couple, and the group as a whole took photos at the iconic spot with Huaynu Picchu mountain in the background.

Llamas were happy to share their home, and they divided their time between letting tourists pet them and trying to nibble a bite of an unsuspecting visitor’s snack. Several lay down on the edge of a terrace. Their wool fluffed up , giving them an odd look, like fuzzy bean bag chairs with long giraffe-like necks.

We then took a bus to Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas Calientes) to shower, eat dinner, and grab an early sleep.

Machu Picchu. Terraced mountain with taller mountain in background. Stone houses.
Machu Picchu. FINALLY!

Day 2: Machu Picchu

The park service divides Machu Picchu into 4 separate circuits. This lessens the burden on each section of the site. Each circuit ensures that travelers still see every part of Machu Picchu.

We had circuit 4, a longer trail that is the lowest on the mountain. This takes you to the entrances for Huaynu Picchu and Huchuy Picchu. Our group signed up for Huaynu Picchu and beelined to the entrance upon leaving the bus.

After the Huaynu Picchu hike (which is optional) we had the tour of Machu Picchu. This is an enjoyable, educational excursion where the guide explains the importance of the site and each section.

Note: The crowds make it easy to keep moving and forget to take time to really appreciate Machu Picchu. This is a 600-year-old sacred site, still intact despite the Spanish’s best attempts to destroy anything Incan. The steps you use and of all the views have not changed in centuries.

So take your time to soak it in. Appreciate the Incas, the Pachamama, and how Machu Picchu’s shape fits into and even mirrors the landscape. Stop and wait to take that fantastic photo when you need.

Our two days over, we hopped into a van for Cusco after picking up our things from the hotel. The trip involved a quick detour to buy a snack from the market (fresh cheese and corn!). We then rested.

Short Inca Trail Need-to-Know Information

Basic Facts

What was the Inca Trail Used For?

The Inca Trail was a religious pilgrimage route. It was part of the royal road that connected the entire western half of South America– from Chile to Colombia.

While today anyone with a ticket can enter, in Incan times only societal elites had the privilege of walking certain sections of the royal road. That includes the part that we now call the Inca Trail.

How Long is the Short inca Trail?

The hike is 12 km/7.46 miles long. It takes an average of 6-7 hours to complete.

Man in sombrero looking at group of people sitting down in front of stone terraces and among thatched-roof buildings.
Gazing around Machu Picchu

Where Does the Trail Start and End?

The short Inca Trail starts at Kilometer 104, which is the first train stop after Ollantaytambo. It ends at Machu Picchu.

Stone, roofless buildings, green terraces and mountain behind.
Behind Machu Picchu sits Huaynu Picchu

Permits for the Short Inca Trail

You CANNOT get a permit (or enter) any section of the Inca Trail without a professional guide. This means you have to use a tour company, who vary somewhat in cost, comfort and quality.

Companies obtain permits for hikers upon payment.

Tour Companies

I strongly recommend to do research before choosing a tour company. Read reviews on TripAdvisor, check out content and comments on social media, and write any questions you have to company email or WhatsApp contacts.

Also, think about what you want from the experience. Are you OK with joining a larger group of strangers? Would you like to pay a little more for a more intimate, private tour? Are there any language or other preferences that some companies do not provide? etc.

Availability

You can hike the Inca Trail eleven months out of the year (this and Machu Picchu are closed in February).

Best practice is to buy permits a 2-4 months ahead of time. Fortunately, the Short Inca Trail does not sell out as quickly as other Inca Trail options.

What Is Included (and What’s Left Out)

There is not much variety between what tour companies include with the Short Inca Trail package. At a minimum you should receive:

  • Permit for the Inca Trail
  • Tickets to enter Machu Picchu (for both days)
  • Train ticket and/or van service from and to your hotel in Cusco
  • Guide
  • Lunch on Day 1
  • Bus tickets for Machu Picchu: to Aguas Calientes on Day 1, and from/to Aguas Calientes on Day 2

Usually hiking poles are separate but offered. If your selected company does not set up a hotel in Aguas Calientes, make sure to do so quickly.

Sometimes a porter is included, too. But plan on carrying your things for the entire trek since these services are less common.

You’ll have the option to pay extra for a hike in Machu Picchu as well.

man in hat walking through stone hallway
Strolling through Wiñaywayna

Price

We paid $650 per person for a private tour of 4 people. That is at the medium-high end for the Short Inca Trail.

Having said that, anything from about $400-750/person is normal. A few luxury tourism companies charge even more.

Difficulty

This is considered a moderately difficult hike. The first half is especially tough. During these first hours you will mostly go uphill with little shade, and for miles the trail takes you across steep mountainside. The flatter, shade-rich second half balances out the trek.

Remains of stone buildings with terraces behind

How to Prepare

Packing List

The packing list for the Short Inca Trail is long, considering this is really a 1-day hike with a tour of Machu Picchu on day 2. That’s because you’ll need to prepare for the climate and also have all of your personal items for Machu Picchu, the train, and your hotel in Aguas Calientes.

  • Original passport and 2 copies
  • Travel insurance and 2 copies
  • Phone + charger
  • Camera + charger
  • Power adapter
  • Soap or hand sanitizer
  • Toilet paper
  • Mosquito repellent (recommended 30% DEET)
  • Anti-inflammatory tablets (such as ibuprofen)
  • Sunblock
  • Personal first-aid kit (Aspirin, Acetazolamide (Diamox), Band-Aids, anti-histamine, anti-diarrheal, re-hydration powder, any medication)
  • Hiking poles (if you usually use them)
  • Rain gear (jacket, shoes, backpack at a minimum. This is essential if you go in the rainy season from October to March)
  • Comfortable hiking clothes. Include a long sleeved shirt, hat, hiking pants, and a t-shirt.
  • Clothes for evening and sleeping in Aguas Calientes
  • Hiking boots that go over the ankle. Remember socks too!
  • Light sandals
  • Sunglasses
  • Ear Plugs. Aguas Calientes can get loud at night!
  • Plenty of water
  • Snackies
  • Cash- Peruvian soles and USD
  • Credit or debit card.

Some people bring a bathing suit for the hot springs in Aguas Calientes. However we didn’t have any time for this, and the springs get very full, very fast.

Last but certainly not least: use as light a backpack as possible! You’ll probably carry all of your stuff on the Trail.

Recommended Reading

Plenty of books provide historical, spiritual and cultural contexts that will make the experience more well-rounded.

  • Inca Land by Hiram Bingham: Ok, this book is definitely a self-promotion. But it paints a picture of what Machu Picchu and the “Inca Trail” looked like before the hoards of tourists began to visit.
  • Life and Death in the Andes by Kim MacQuarrie: Each chapter focuses on a different spot of intrigue in South America, but Peru receives the most attention.
  • Turn Right at Machu Picchu by Mark Adams: An entertaining history of the author’s quest to walk to Machu Picchu and the other Incan citadels nearby such as Choquequirao and Vilcabamba
Open-air tunnel with red roof

Getting Fit

This is a daylong tour that will test anyone who is not in great shape. Get your body (and mind) used to hiking for hours while carrying a backpack.

The Short Inca Trail’s altitude is considerably lower than Cusco’s. Still, you’ll reach a height of 2,650 meters (8,692 feet). So spend 2-3 days in Cusco or the Sacred Valley to acclimatize before starting this hike.

green mountains with clouds and in the very. back, snow

Conclusion

The Short Inca Trail is the second most popular hike to Machu Picchu, and for good reason. If you don’t want to sleep outside, or don’t have the time for a multi-day hike, this is a fantastic option. And it’s stunningly beautiful and challenging enough even for types who normally backpack for 10 days at a time.

If you’ve taken this hike or are going, write a comment below! Feel free to email us at gringoinca@gmail.com if you want more information about the Trail or our experience.

Stone, thatched roof building with large rock in front and green mountains behind. Clouds.

Hikes in Machu Picchu

hikes in Machu Picchu. Entrance to Huanya Picchu

Warm sun hits the gleam of sweat on your face, and you trudge over stones that were laid centuries ago while ignoring an adjacent cliffside. You pump your legs up stairs that promise riveting views of the Andean landscape, the same seductive sights that enraptured the Incas and draw thousands of annual visitors to Peru’s most popular (and expensive) attraction.

The dry air has a light sweetness to it. Giant orchids and zipping hummingbirds highlight the low vegetation around you. From over a thousand feet below, a rushing river provides a continuous background to the sounds of your companions’ breathing and the occasional conversation.

This isn’t just a dreamy picture of exploration; it is made reality when you hike Machu Picchu. But before you go, you must prepare. What are your hiking options? How should you get ready, both physically and mentally?

Read on as we answer these questions. And then read our article on Machu Picchu for all the facts you’ll need to visit the actual site (not just the hikes).

The Normal Machu Picchu Ticket

The Ministry of Culture offers 5 different loops (circuits) for visitors to Machu Picchu. These divide up travelers, resulting in a lower daily impact on the site. Your ticket will only include one circuit. This is considered a “normal” ticket for Machu Picchu.

The circuits are relatively new and vary in length. It’s best to get the latest information on each one from the Ministry of Culture’s website (where you can also buy tickets).

But while the circuits take 1.5-3 hours to complete, they are more of a stroll than a hike. If you want to really hike at Machu Picchu there are three options: Huchuy Picchu, Huayna Picchu, and Machu Picchu Mountain.

Note: There is also an option to see the Incan bridge, but this is a short walk and not what most would consider a hike (especially compared to the other three).

Add-on Hikes in Machu Picchu

When you buy tickets for Machu Picchu, you will have the option to buy a ticket that includes one of these hikes. You can only buy one ticket per day, and the circuit at Machu Picchu will be determined by the hike you choose.

For example, you will take a circuit through the lower part of Machu Picchu if you hike Huayna Picchu or Huchuy Picchu, and you’ll walk the upper part of the site if hiking Machu Picchu Mountain.

Your ticket for the hike will also be timed. That means you’ll have a designated hour to show up at the hike’s entrance, where you will then sign in.

Rock and thatched roof stone buildings
This rock is next to the entrance for Huchuy and Huayna Picchu. The Incas shaped the boulder in the same form as the mountain directly behind it, which was a common practice of theirs.

Huchuy Picchu

This is the most recently-opened, and shortest, of the three. At only 1 km (0.62 miles) long, the Huchuy Picchu hike is a vertiginous push to the top of the mountain that lies between Machu Picchu and the taller Huayna Picchu.

Huchuy Picchu isn’t long, but hiking it involves navigating a narrow, towering mountainside trail. Most arrive to the top within 15-20 minutes, and the descent takes 10-15 minutes.

a couple standing in front of stone archaeological site and green mountains
See the green hump all the way to the left, directly behind the stone buildings? That’s Huchuy Picchu! To the right is the larger Huayna Picchu

Huayna Picchu

Huanya Picchu is the most popular of the three hikes in Machu Picchu. That’s because it takes less time to complete than Machu Picchu Mountain and the trail arrives to the top of a mountain taller than Huchuy Picchu.

The ascent and descent take about 2 hours total. Much like at Huchuy Picchu, this 4km (2.5 mile) adventure will pump your adrenaline and put you face-to-face with any fear of heights lurking in your subconscious.

narrow, steep stone steps
One section of Huayna Picchu

Machu Picchu Mountain

The Machu Picchu Mountain hike starts at the opposite side of Machu Picchu than the other two. The 3-4 hour hike involves countless stairs- still on the side of the mountain, but not quite as narrow as those at Huayna or Huchuy Picchu.

All the effort is worth it, as you’ll arrive to the tallest summit at 3,082 meters (10,112 feet) above sea level.

And that will give you an excellent photo opportunity of the Machu Picchu complex, Huchuy Picchu and Huayna Picchu- if the clouds permit, that is :)

This is a moderately difficult hike that I only recommend if you have the time. Remember you’ll want time to tour Machu Picchu itself as well.

How to Hike Machu Picchu for Cheap

There technically is an option to hike Machu Picchu for free, although it is more of a hike to, not within, the actual site. The 8km (5 mile) path is easy to find because it is adjacent to the bus route for Machu Picchu.

Most people complete the hike in 1-2 hours. It’s totally uphill; you start at Aguas Calientes (an altitude of 389 meters or 1,276 feet), and end up at Machu Picchu (1,279 meters or 4,196 feet)!

A less strenuous option is to take the path down to Aguas Calientes after visiting Machu Picchu. Either way, just make sure to pack plenty of water.

Oh, and remember to get a bus ticket for the route that you won’t be hiking (to Machu Picchu or back to Aguas Calientes)!

Can You Hike Machu Picchu Without a Guide?

Yes, you can hike any of these without a guide. Guides are great for providing cultural context to the experience (and as another pair of hands for taking photos), but hiring one is not a requirement. Of course, you will be provided a guide if you purchase a tour package.

The first steps of the Huayna Picchu hike

Training for Hiking Machu Picchu

Anyone in good shape will do fine on these hikes. But remember, each hike is in addition to the 1.5-3 hours you’ll need to tour Machu Picchu.

The most difficult aspects are mental and the altitude. For the first, I recommend doing several 4-hour long hikes wearing a backpack (ideally with steep inclines) in the weeks leading up to traveling. If you can practice in a spot with steep drop-offs, even better.

The altitude aspect will take care of itself if you spend time in Cusco or the Sacred Valley before going to Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu is at a lower altitude than those areas. You should take at least 48 hours to acclimate to the altitude before hiking in Machu Picchu.

people using all fours to go up stone stairway

How Many Hikes are There to Machu Picchu?

For hiking to (not within) Machu Picchu, there are are several options. These vary from the 2-day Inca Trail (which we did in August 2022!) to 4-8 day options.

Conclusion

Including a hike greatly adds to the adventure of visiting Machu Picchu. This is whether you pick Huchuy Picchu, Huayna Picchu, Machu Picchu Mountain or the hike from Aguas Calientes. And as long as you are in reasonably good shape, you’ll do fine.

Get in some practice hikes before landing in Peru so you’ll be mentally ready.

And make sure you have enough time to catch your train back to Cusco!

Thinking of doing one of these hikes? Then read our post on visiting Machu Picchu– this provides all the basic need-to-know information (including what to pack)!

Please leave a comment if you’ve done one of these hikes. Thanks for reading :)

man with two thumbs up and green mountains in background
Our guide, Abraham from Peru Summit Adventures, at the top of Huayna Picchu!

Peru 2022 Adventure: An Epic August Awaits!

Finally it’s happening. The world had a pandemic and we had a child, at literally the same time. He was born in March 2020.

That would be the exact month everything around us shut down.

And for two years, we lived through Covid craziness, dirty diapers, and understanding this new stage in life. At times we thought of when we’d go back to Peru. We knew the trip would have to be epic, since so much time had passed.

We talked with family and friends about it, partly to just talk about something when the world was shut down, partly to convince them to come. I squeezed out literally every hour possible of my paid time off at the real job. And with two of our friends we came up with an inspiring itinerary that had me giddy for months.

Now, finally, we are going back. Here’s what we’ll be doing in the Land of the Incas:

2022 Peru Trip: The 17-day Epic

Our friends had never been to Peru and wanted to go to Machu Picchu. And we all wanted to have an authentic adventure that wasn’t just in the touristy places. So to start off we we decided to go to Cuzco and hike to Machu Picchu.

The hike we chose is the Short Inca trail. This is a 2-day adventure that includes the final leg of the Inca Trail and a tour of Machu Picchu. We added on the hike to Huaynu Picchu, an (even more) restricted mountain next to Machu Picchu. The steep path has ladders and cables that take you to a beautiful vantage point of the site and surroundings.

We’ll have a day and a half in Cuzco afterwards to explore the city and maybe visit a Sacred Valley site. I’d love to see Chinchero and its famous weavers. But there will be a tight time constraint.

From there, it will be one whirlwind day of travel to take us to the cloud forest paradise of Oxapampa. “Oxa” is off the radars for most international tourists (to our gain!).

In Oxapampa we will stay at a lodge near the middle of town. We’ll have a big family reunion since Janina’s extended family lives there. It’s long overdue.

When not visiting family we may hike in a national park, try the Bavarian-inspired breweries, or take a tour of a native community. Or all three.

A few days later we’ll also try out an ecolodge just outside of town. Everything is included, including experiences. You can pick one a day, out of zip lining, rappelling, night tours, and more.

What can be better than an all-inclusive ecolodge in the cloud forest with every option to satiate our need for adventure?!

Finally, we finish up in Lima. There we’ll eat the food, maybe surf the sea, maybe paraglide over the cliffs, maybe bike the town, and maybe take a food tour. There’s a lot of maybes because this will be a recharge spot after Oxapampa.

Except the food. The food in Latin America’s gastronomic capital is never a maybe but a HELL YES!

What’s Next

The site is going silent for a few weeks since we’ll be away. But once we return, you’ll get the most updated information on Fun & Earth-Friendly Travel in Peru, including:

  • Comprehensive, honest reviews of hotels and lodges where we stayed
  • Videos and written accounts of the Short Inca Trail and the activities we try in Oxapampa and Lima, plus our recommendations
  • Our full itinerary, complete with links to hotels and tour operators we liked, with videos and photos (thank you, new GoPro!)

I can’t wait for this trip, and I can’t wait to share it all with you. Thanks for following Gringo Inca. Be sure to like us on Pinterest and to send our stuff to friends and family members who may be like-minded travelers.

Stay cool & stay free!!!!!!

Abrazos

– Brad