Tag: Adventure travel

Travel to Peru: All You Need to Know to Plan the Most EPIC Trip

This is a refreshingly rugged, culturally-rich land that offers a top-notch food scene and an endless menu of outdoor activities. The vertiginous Andes provide some of the best hiking experiences in the world (and seriously scary bus rides). You may already know that Cusco and Machu Picchu are the main draws with their cultural and historical significances. And because of this, most tourists head directly to Southern Peru.

Now, Southern Peru is objectively amazing, but below I’ll explain why you should also visit areas outside of the “gringo trail”. The diversity of cultures, wildlife, and climates in Peru create opportunities for memorable experiences all over the country and not just in one region. Because of this, your trip for Peru just may be the most memorable you’ve ever had.

But before you travel to Peru, make sure you are properly prepared. This includes picking the place or activity you simply cannot miss and having enough time (and cash) to do so. This article includes everything you need to get started.

Best Time to Travel to Peru

Generally the best time to travel to Peru is from May to September, as you’ll avoid the rainy season in the Andes and the jungle. Unfortunately these months are Lima’s cloudiest and chilliest. The Northern coast is warm and sunny year round.

If you’re looking for awesome discounts, the rainy season is ideal. But you’ll have to be flexible because roads and trails often close due to the conditions. The sweet spot for cost and convenience are the shoulder months- April and October.

How Much Money do I Need?

Unfortunately, this is a loaded question with no straight answer. The amount of money you need to visit Peru will depend on the choices you make:

  • Will you stay in a hotel with a private bathroom, or a shared-bedroom hostal?
  • Will you take a plane between cities, or are you OK taking it slower and going by bus?
  • How many days do you plan to be in the more touristy cities compared to places that rarely have visitors?

More than anything, pick the one or two activities you MUST do when in Peru. This may be visiting Machu Picchu (including train tickets), hiking the Inca Trail, or surfing in Mancora. Budget for these must-do activities and ensure you have enough for lodging, food, souvenirs, and transportation.

As a general guide, these are the average prices for things in Peru:

  • Budget hotel room (not shared): $30
  • Lunch: $5-8
  • Cocktail: $3-4
  • Overnight bus ride (7-9 hours): $10-35
  • Intercity plane ticket: $50-150
  • Souvenirs: varies; a comfy hand-made alpaca wool hat can go for $5-8

Prices are almost always in Peru’s currency, the Nuevo Sol, but US dollars are accepted. One USD is worth 3-4 soles depending on the current rate.

Haggling is typical in markets, but don’t expect the price to drop by more than about 5-15%. Tipping is only expected in restaurants in big cities, and in those cases 10% is enough. In other cases, it is always appreciated but not expected.

Finally, have cash on hand, especially in small towns and rural areas.

How Much Time do I Need?

Machu Picchu llama

Peru is over three times larger than Italy, and its crazy geography means you won’t find any transportation remotely like the high-speed trains of Europe or Japan. Because of this, we recommend picking a region and staying there for a bit. This provides a richer, more immersive experience, and you’ll avoid feeling you’ve been in a plane/bus/car the entire trip.

Also, if you visit the Andes (and you SHOULD), anyone coming from a lower altitude must take a day or two to adjust before hiking or other activities. Add a couple of days to your time in Cusco or whichever Andean city is first on your itinerary for this.

Finally, to answer the question: We recommend 10 days as the absolute minimum for visiting Peru. That’s because the country is large, not particularly easy to get around, and offers so much to enjoy.

Travel to Peru: Requirements

Vaccines for Peru

In addition to routine vaccinations, you should be up-to-date with the following vaccines:

  • Hepatitis A & B
  • Measles
  • Rabies
  • Typhoid
  • Yellow Fever (especially if traveling to the jungle)

People going to certain areas of the jungle should take anti-malarial drugs, too. Always consult a doctor before traveling.

Visa Requirements for Peru

People from the Andean Community countries, European Shengen area, USA, and Canada can visit without getting a visa ahead of time. The same goes for Ireland, the UK, most of South and Central America, and the Caribbean.

Peru’s Foreign Relations Ministry has an updated list of visa-free countries here.

Packing List

Each geography and climate is so drastically distinct in this country that your packing list will depend on the exact destination(s) you have in mind. Having said that, there are a few basics that you’ll need regardless of your destination or activity. Read our full article on what to pack for Peru for more info!

Where to Visit in Peru

The Big-Ticket Spots

The torreon (tower/turret) at Machu Picchu

Let’s start with the most-visited destinations in Peru. In general, there is more tourist infrastructure at these locations, although during the peak months of June-August the most popular spots get more crowded than a college party with free beer.

It’s not all just crowds, though; each of these is popular for good reason, and less-touristy spots are never too far away.

Arequipa

Peru’s 2nd-largest city sits at 7,661 feet above sea level in a valley surrounded by volcanoes and snow-capped peaks. Arequipa is considered to be safer and cleaner than Lima (and it may even have better food, if that’s possible!). Nearby, the planet’s two deepest canyons (Cotahuasi and Colca) provide terrific treks through traditional villages and world-famous condor viewing.

Tip: If you’re going to Southern Peru, head to Arequipa before Cusco or Puno. This way you’ll acclimatize to the altitude more gradually.

Chachapoyas

“Chacha” has gradually received more tourists in the past decade, especially since its airport opened. The cobblestoned city is a beautiful base for visiting archaeological sites such as Kuelap, which is the most impressive Chachapoyan site that we know of today. Day hikes to some of the tallest waterfalls in the world are a most awesome highlight, too.

Cusco

If you’re going to travel to Peru, then the ancient Incan capital has to be considered. The city is a time machine; its pristine historic center is nearly identical to its look 500 years ago. From Cusco you can venture into the Sacred Valley and on to Machu Picchu.

Tip: Make sure you tour the city, including making time to visit the museums, nearby archeological sites and the Qorinkancha temple before trekking to the Lost City of the Incas. And eat a sopa verde when the evening gets cold.

Huaraz

Much like Chachapoyas, Huaraz doesn’t receive the same amount of attention as Cusco and Lima. But this place is a trekker’s and climber’s dream. The standout hikes are the resplendent, 4-day Santa Cruz and the multiday Huayhuash. Day trips to glacial lakes and a visit to Alpine-like Huaraz National Park are perfect for anyone looking to sleep in a hotel bed every night.

Tip: Take a comfy, overnight buscama from Lima, and you’ll get a decent enough night’s sleep without losing a day of travel (or paying for a hotel)!

Ica, Paracas and Nazca

This area just south of Lima is packed with pisco, sandboards and a literal desert oasis. You need to take a plane to see all of the mesmerizing and enigmatic Nazca Lines, although you can spot some of them from towers in and around Nazca.

Tip: Take a bus to Ica from Lima (4-5 hours), then hit the road to Arequipa afterwards.

Iquitos

Smack-dab in the middle of Northern Peru’s Amazon, this is Earth’s largest non-road-accessible city. Most people fly here, but rugged and adventurous (or crazy) types take the boat.

Lake Titicaca

At 12,507 feet above sea level, this is the world’s highest navigable lake. The scenery is striking, the weather brisk, and the culture captivating. Most people agree that the Bolivian side is better, but don’t overlook the floating Uros islands. Even better, consider staying with a local family in Taquile or Amantini island for a cultural experience, and a night sky, that you’ll never forget.

Lima

Peru’s cluttered capital is often depressingly cloudy and just not as enticing as its Andean and Amazonian counterparts. But you’ll probably arrive here since those other cities don’t have large international airports. Prepare to be pleasantly surprised with the seaside neighborhoods of Barranco and Miraflores- oh, and the continent’s most famous food scene!

Machu Picchu

mist coming over stone structures with green peak in background. Machu Picchu

Almost every visitor makes it to Peru’s (and perhaps South America’s) most recognizable spot. And we have entire articles about not only Machu Picchu, but the treks to and within the site as well. The best recommendation anyone can give is this: make sure you have plenty of time at the actual site of Machu Picchu when booking your hotel and train tickets!

Mancora

Peru’s most popular beach hangout is a great surfing spot. It’s warm and sunny all year, and the party never stops. Towns just a few kilometers north and south of Mancora provide a more intimate experience.

Manu/Tambopata

The heart of the Peruvian Amazon is a short plane ride from Cusco and Lima. You’ll get the chance to learn how the locals survive and thrive in the world’s largest rainforest, and sports such as kayaking and hiking are popular. Definitely go with a guide and consider an all-inclusive lodge.

Sacred Valley

The area outside of Cusco is peppered with picturesque pueblos. Each has a claim to fame, from Incan sites that rival Machu Picchu to amazing, traditional textiles and colorful markets. There are some excellent hiking and mountain biking opportunities, too.

Tip: Avoid the Sacred Valley day trips from Cusco, unless you’re really into getting to know the insides of a Peruvian bus. Instead, spend a few nights in one of the towns such as Chinchero, Ollantaytambo, Pisac or Urubamba.

Off the Gringo Trail

When you travel to Peru, the most memorable moments could be far off the well-trodden routes referred to as “The Gringo Trail”. I’ll never forget chewing bitter coca leaves with ladies in bowler hats and ponchos, waiting for the pounding rain to let up as we crouched into a nook on the side of the mountain and they described their day-to-day life with me. Or sipping a delightfully dark artisanal coffee, sourced mere meters from my table, while the sun rose over the cloud forest and warmed my face.

Definitely go to the big-ticket spots that catch your fancy; you won’t regret it. But make sure to take a side trip to a place where tourism isn’t the main form of income for the locals. It’s a different, slower vibe, and you’ll feel the “real Peru” that the custom tour crowd misses.

Chiclayo

Pimental beach near Chiclayo

Go to Chiclayo for the nearby archaeological sites and museums, especially the Lord of Sipan museum. Local beach towns are popular among Peruvians, even though they don’t get international attention.

Tip: Take some time here on the way north if you’re going to Chachapoyas.

Huancayo

Huancayo is a sprawling city with a strong Andean identity. It’s surrounded by artesian villages, each of which has its own specialty, from silver jewelry to gourd carvings. A day hike to snowcapped Huaytapallana and mountain bike rides to the central jungle (Oxapampa) are excellent outdoor choices.

Tip: Huancayo is in the center of Peru, so take a bus from Lima, Oxapampa or Yauyos to easily add it to your trip!

Matucana

As you head eastward from Lima, Matucana marks the end of the dry desert foothills and the beginning of the Andean Sierra. It’s a charming town with a few solid hikes that always lead you to lakes or a waterfall. Your visit can be a long day trip or a nice 2-3 day break from Lima or even Huancayo.

Tip: It’s easy to find a bus, colectivo (shared taxi) or private taxi from Lima to Chosica. From there buses and colectivos leave for Matucana on a regular basis.

Oxapampa

“Oxa” is a popular vacation spot among Peruvians, but it’s still a secret to foreigners. The town is cradled in a verdant valley of the High Jungle, making the weather warm but not sweltering. Bavarian architecture and German breweries will make you second-guess what country you’re in!

Tip: Stay at an all-inclusive lodge just outside of town. Ulcumano has stunning scenery, great food and a menu of outdoor activities.

Yauyos

We saved the last one for those who REALLY want to rough it- in exchange for truly fantastic views and experiences! The Reserva Paisajistica Nor-Yauyos Cochas is both a mouthful and a literal Landscape Reserve. In other words, it’s being preserved because the land is considered to be so majestic (which says a lot in a country full of natural beauty). The story Ashincuy is from here, too.

Tip: You can visit from Lima, but it’s much safer to go via Huancayo. You’ll take a colectivo for the 3-4 hour trip.

The 5 Most Bomb-Ass Hikes in Peru

No doubt, Peru is a trekker’s dream come true. Every Andean town seems to have its own secret, ancient site with beautiful trails to explore. The vastness and beauty of the Andes mountains, the diverse ancient cultures being preserved in the towns along the trails, and world-class archaeological sites are enough to mesmerize and fascinate the most well-travelled hiker.

So no matter where you go, chances are you’re close to an amazing hike. This plethora of options is exciting, but if you need help narrowing down your choices, here are my top 5 hikes for Peru:

  • El Misti: This one is here because it’s a relatively easy one-nighter (and barely that). Summit a 19,101-foot tall volcano (don’t worry, it’s dormant) for vistas of the Arequipa landscape. Then skip or slide your way down the ash on the other side of the mountain, taking mere hours to undo the day-and-a-half climb you took. Trust me, it’s a hoot.
  • Huayhuash: Depending on the year and who’s doing the ranking, this hike on the “other side” of Huaraz is often ranked the world’s best.
  • Inca Trail: It’s the most popular hike in Peru for a reason! Summit mind-bogglingly tall peaks, explore Incan sites that escaped the destructive Spanish, and sleep under a sky with no light pollution on your way to Machu Picchu. We have all the info you need here.
  • Salkantay: Somehow Salkantay figures out how to be the Inca Trail’s even wilder brother. Check this one out for a more nature-based hike, which also ends at Machu Picchu.
  • Santa Cruz: This 4-day hike outside Huaraz has been known by the trekking community but not the “regular” tourist crowd for some time now. It’s a 3-4 day hike through the Cordillera Blanca, a mountain range for which superlatives wouldn’t do justice– you just have to experience it! Clever Hiker has a good guide, although it’s a bit dated.

The Best (Non-Hiking) Outdoor Activities

Canopy walks @ night!

Of course, hiking isn’t all there is to do for outdoor activities in Peru. Here’s a few examples of what else you’ll find in the country:

  • Canopy Walks: In the jungle, many lodges have hanging bridges that bring you right to the forest canopy. Totally worth a try, especially at night when the animals come out.
  • Paraglide: Especially in Miraflores in Lima. You go accompanied by a pilot, and you can often sign up the day of. Just walk up to the paragliders on the malecon; you can’t miss them.
  • Surfing: With some of the longest breaks in the world, Peru has excellent surfing spots. Lima and Mancora are the most popular for rentals and lessons, but there are dozens of chill surf towns along the coast.
  • Wildlife Viewing: Especially in the Amazon. Tours to the Macaw clay licks or Sandoval Lake in the Manu/Tambopata region are a good bet. So is the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve near Iquitos– they have PINK dolphins!
  • Zipline: The Cusco region and parts of the jungle have some exceptional ziplines over stunning scenery. The “Inca Jungle” hike to Machu Picchu and Ulcumano Ecolodge are good options to check out.

Is it Safe to Travel to Peru?

First and foremost, it’s always best to check with your country’s embassy in Lima for updated safety information.

The political tension and violence that resulted from protests have dropped considerably since early 2023. That means for travelers, Peru is pretty much as safe as it’s ever been (especially in areas that now depend on influxes of visitors such as Cusco and Lima).

You still want to be smart when you travel to Peru. Pickpocketing is the most common problem, and be especially careful with your passport. Keep valuables in a safe in hotel rooms when possible. Use your common sense, too; going down a dark street late at night isn’t a good idea anywhere.

Transportation

With the dangers of nighttime highway driving, narrow cliffside passes, and panic-inducing taxis, this deserves an article on its own. Which is why we wrote one.

Books to Read Before You Travel to Peru

Before you go, read up on Peru’s history and culture in order to have a fuller experience. My top recommendations are Last Days of the Incas by Kim MacQuarrie and Turn Right at Machu Picchu by Mark Adams.

We have a full list of recommended books for Peru here.

Travel to Peru: Conclusion

Peru is a top destination in multiple travel categories. It’s chock-full of culture and provides a range of outdoor activities, from the adrenaline to the awe-inducing. And much like other South American countries, it’s not terribly expensive to have a trip of a lifetime here.

The most difficult part of creating your itinerary to travel to Peru is picking where to go once in country. Long bus rides and expensive flights can make it unfeasible to visit each major region in one trip.

At the very least, it’s best to decide which part of Peru you’d like to prioritize. Which is why we’ve created sample itineraries focusing on three regions of the country:

  • Southern Peru offers the big-name options: Machu Picchu, Inca Trail, and the Amazon jungle, for example. Check out our Peru Bucket List itinerary to decide how you’d like to visit this part of the country.
  • Northern Peru is growing in popularity, especially for backpackers and surfers. This includes the jungle metropolis of Iquitos, beautiful Pacific beaches, and the Chachapoyas region. Our Northern Peru Sample Itinerary has all you need to get started.
  • Central Peru, unfairly overlooked in my opinion, is ideal for a more off-the-beaten-path adventure. The Bavarian jungle town of Oxapampa is here, as are the hiker’s dream (Huaraz) and the inscrutable Huancayo. You’ll wonder how this region receives so few visitors, and won’t be surprised if it doesn’t stay that way.

Now here’s one final tip: Peru is a truly fascinating place, and the more I visit, the longer my list of things to do there grows. Try not to be overwhelmed by the many choices of places to go, things to do, and foods to eat. Just enjoy the moment.

Let us know in the comments or by emailing GringoInca@gmail.com for any tips or specific questions on Peru. Thanks for reading!

-Brad

Ulcumano Travel Anecdote

The full moon viewed from tree branches

We would have been stuck like flies in honey without the 4-wheeled drive transportation to Ulcumano Ecolodge. Bumpy, curvy, muddy- the offshoot road from Oxapampa had all the nausea-inducing necessities. Surrounding the single lane were countless trees that reached 60+ feet in height. Their narrowness suggested this land was converted to forest about a generation ago, and this was further suggested by small plots still dedicated to cattle and small agriculture.

The half hour took us to a cooler climate, and I put a longsleeved shirt on while observing the ecolodge’s entrance. A group of birders were walking on a trail. They had rain jackets, bucket hats, long pants and heavy-looking binoculars. They were speaking Spanish, likely Limenos given their accent. The men had salt-and-pepper stubble or short white beards. As a group they headed to a canopy walk, where they would gaze intently over bromelaids the height of buildings.

To the Cabins!

A tall, thin man meets us after we disembark. His name is Eduardo, and he is the owner of the ecolodge. Eduardo has a narrow face, short dark beard, and a quick diction. I notice sometimes he twitches, possibly from overthinking, as he explains everything to us on the walk to our lodging.

There are six wooden cabins with balconies, each separated from the rest by forest. A seventh is Eduardo’s family’s home. The cabins use solar power, and Eduardo tells us how to use the lights and shower. We take a turn off the main path, on stepstones that lead to our lodging. I hear what sounds like a mechanical “BEEP!”. Eduardo says it’s the white-eared solitaire, also known as the Telephone Bird for its unique song.

It’s the only telephone ring we will hear in our cabin. That’s because there is no internet or phone signal. The cabin is large, with two beds and several tall windows with white curtains. It smells of wood. The balcony dominates the building. It is on stilts, in order to better view over the trees and into the green montane forests that appear to breathe fluffy clouds into existence, like vapor over a body of water on a humid July morning back home. The clouds roll over the landscape. There is no sign of human activity anywhere.

Before he leaves the cabin I ask Eduardo if we should use insect repellant when outside. He pauses, then looks at us and says, “So many chemicals. Well, it is not my skin.” Then he shrugs and leaves.

Sia Cave

We had barely unpacked our bags when a knock is at the door. Eduardo invites us on a hike to a cave, a trek of about 2-3 hours. He has on his rainjacket. The rhythm of raindrops hitting its orange hood is steady. I do a quick look-around, and there is no sun piercing the foggy grey sky of Ulcumano. We agree to meet with the group at the ecolodge’s entrance in 15 minutes. Then Janina and I change into our rain gear, and we fill up our water bottles.

The trail cuts through Ulcumano’s 102 hectares to a little-visited cave called Cueva Sia. White and brown trees, much like the ones that greeted us, leer over and around us like palm-fingered oglers. Lichens cover their branches and the muddy path smells of fresh, wet leaves. Jurassic plants of up to 40 feet in height neighbor the path too. Because of the rain, it’s not very warm, but it’s not cold, either.

At one point we stop after Eduardo thinks he hears an animal munching up in the canopy. We gaze up, fat raindrops occasionally splashing our faces. We never spot the possible mammal or hear the munching again. But we do hear our invisible friend, the Telephone Bird.

The last section is muddier, steep, and downhill. We babystep to the cave’s entrance and can’t go far inside because the rocky floor is slippery due to a waterfall. We take some photos that don’t come out because of the lighting, eat a snack, and talk a bit before returning.

The hike to the cave took us over an hour, but the energized walk back, motivated by the prospect of a warm, dry lunch, only took 50 minutes.

Lunch!

The hike tired us out, and all one hears in the large cafeteria is the light clinking of plates, silverware and glasses on our wooden table as we chow down on homemade chaufa.

“Hijito!” Eduardo shouts as his wife enters the room with a small baby in her arms. Eduardo’s shoulders relax, and our twitchy guide is transformed into a smiling father, contently beaming with happiness.

Upon seeing Eduardo with his family, we decide to call our 2-year-old son. He’s with his grandparents back in the USA. But the wifi signal isn’t strong enough to make a connection, and the call fails.

The Telephone Bird blares out a few beeps as we leave the cafeteria.

The Night Walk

We spend most of the afternoon resting in the cabin and washing up. The group has decided to do the moonlit canopy walk after dinner. Dusk is slightly chilly, and the sun adds pink streaks to the orange and red hues streaking over the verdant hills. It fees like autumn back home.

Ulcumano’s canopy walk is a series of six cable bridges that are connected by 40-foot-tall platforms. We have on long sleeves and pants, and the moon provides enough light now that the clouds have finally departed. Upon reaching the top of the first metal platform we hook onto cables with carabiner clips. There are two cables, one on each side, and we’re clipped onto both.

We go single file onto the first bridge. I’m the last to go, right behind Janina, who pauses and stares at the cable.

“No worries, just one of these cables can hold an elephant!” our friend Matt encourages her as he glances behind from the bridge. Matt would know something like that. Janina steps onto the bridge, which feels almost as sturdy as the platform.

The moonlight beams onto the forest canopy, a mix of trees and fabulously tall ferns. It smells of fresh vegetation with a clean, crisp air. We flash our lights onto branches and treetops, but large mammals usually avoid those spots during full moons. And tonight they certainly are.

There are plenty of pauses in the conversations as we vainly search for monkeys, spectacled bears, and other animals. It’s tough to picture the Ulcumano of 18 years ago, when cattle grazed throughout the area. The first Ulcumano tree was planted after Eduardo bought the land. The lonely pioneer now has 1000s of siblings, each with its branches spiraling out like fan blades with small needles on the edges.

The Dream

Nature recovers faster than humans expect. The canopy walk is barely at the height of the forest’s top layer now; several years ago it was above everything. Top predators like falcons and bears have moved in, showing the ecosystem is strong again.

Maybe Eduardo is living The Dream. His family lives off the land which they’ve helped recover. But there is a cost. Their son stays with family during the week in order to go to school. And a degree of loneliness must be a part of everyday life. May it’s The Dream, maybe not. But if it is, I’m glad to be a part of it.

Despite not spotting one on the canopy walk, we DID see monkeys on this trip! This one ate the avocados of the tree next to our bungalow in Oxapampa. It threw leaves at me as I took photos.

How to Surf in Ericeira- Europe’s One and Only Surf Reserve!

surf in Ericeira. Beach with some people and house in background

Surfing will teach you lessons you may have forgotten. Like how to appreciate nature and to try something new. And definitely patience. Patience with yourself as you learn, and also with your surroundings as you wait for the right conditions to ride that one wave. In Portugal you can learn to surf in Ericeira, the only European spot to earn the Surf Reserve designation.

We chose Ericeira because I always search for surfing spots when traveling. And after researching beaches near Lisbon, Ericeira seemed a bit less touristy and developed than nearby spots like Cascais.

Read on to find out how you can visit and surf in Ericeira.

(Note: This is an article on my favorite thing to to in Ericeira. Read our complete guide to visiting the town here.)

Surf in Ericeira- How I Did It

Getting There

Getting to Ericeira was remarkably easy. From Sintra you can take a private car or bus. The bus is unsurprisingly cheaper (EUR 4.50) and only takes 45 minutes. The company Malfrense provides regular service from both Sintra and Lisbon.

We actually booked our hotel ahead of time. We chose a small local chain, Vila Ana Margarida. And we could not have done better. Vila Ana has an original aesthetic that speaks to Ericeira’s history as a fishing town, plus excellent food and a helpful staff.

Not to mention high water pressure, which I really appreciated during my hot shower after surfing in the cold Atlantic!

The Experience

It was just as easy to find a surf class as it was to arrive. One morning I simply strolled down the street and signed up for the next day’s beginner class. There are several surf schools where you can do this.

We all met the following morning at 8. Then we walked for about 10 minutes across the town plaza to a parking lot adjacent to one of the beaches. Every day instructors choose a different beach, using class size, experience level, and ocean conditions as criteria.

We put the wetsuits on and walked down to the shore, where a 15-minute lesson on surf technique, terminology and etiquette was given. Then we grabbed our boards and went in!

I hadn’t expected the water to be so cold, despite my mid-Atlantic roots. And the waves were a bit choppy. But I got in a couple decent rides and overall had a good time.

Cost

The group lesson I took cost EUR 40 per person. The whole experience was 2 hours long.

Surfing schools offer private lessons for EUR 100 plus camps and surf schools at varying costs (depending on length and number of participants).

Tips Before You Go

  • You don’t need any experience in surfing to ride a wave! It was fairly easy, and your instructor will help. Everyone in my group got in at least one wave.
  • Take a private lesson for more time on the waves and to learn faster.
  • The water was chilly. Def have a warm shower available!
  • The water was rather rough for a beginner class. At risk of sounding obvious, make sure you are comfortable swimming in the ocean before taking a surf lesson.
  • Embrace surf culture and take a few days to explore and find your perfect wave. Although you CAN take a day trip from Lisbon for this experience, I recommend spending some time in Ericeira. It’s a cool, pretty town, and just jetting in to catch a quick wave cheapens the experience.

Conclusion

sunset over beach through two stone circles

There is a modern problem with the commodification of everything related to surfing- from the clothes to the literal making of waves.

Conversely, there is something romantic and irreplaceable to the experience of waiting for the perfect wave, including taking time to know the people and way of life adjacent to the sea.

So stay in Ericeira for a bit, and take the time to learn surfing and the patience it involves if you’re interested.

The Earth-Friendly Guide to Visit Ica

blue car on desert during sunset

Definitely visit Ica if you get the chance while in Peru- especially if you’re already in Southern Peru. The city has perfect Pisco, dope dunes for sandboarding, and is near awesome wildlife-viewing and cultural experiences. Ica has a unique cultural heritage and, being in a desert, offers different outdoor opportunities than the jungle and Andes. It’s a great stop for a Southern Peru trip or just as a getaway from Lima.

What to Do

The Popular Spots

Huacachina

Huacachina is the name of the game for tourism in Ica. The desert oasis has gotten too popular for some visitors in recent years. But it’s worth walking around a real oasis and sandboarding down those awesome dunes at sunset!

man beach people sand

The dune buggy tours will take you to several dunes to sandboard down. Too many buggies and tourists have had a negative impact on Huacachina, so consider just walking up a dune instead. Work those calves, baby.

Nazca Lines

The Paracas and Nazca cultures made the enigmatic Nazca Lines between 200 BC and 700 AD. There are crazy spirals, long lines, and figures such as a hummingbird, monkey, condor, and even one called the spaceman, still etched in the sand.

We still don’t know why the lines were made, but underground waterways are possibly connected. (Aliens certainly are not.)

And contrary to popular belief, you don’t need a plane ride from Lima to see the Nazca Lines. Just take more environmentally-friendly local transport to Palpa (1.5 hours) or Nazca (2.5). Both towns have viewing towers from which many of the lines and figures can be seen.

From Nazca, you can return to Ica or go on to Cusco and Arequipa.

The Cultural Experiences

  • Brujas de Cachiche: The famous witches of Cachiche are a mere 10 minutes from Ica. If witchcraft ain’t your thing, at least see the mysterious 7-headed palm tree and the witch’s monument.
  • El Carmen District, Chincha: Check this out on the way from Lima. El Carmen is the place to witness and experience Afroperuvian food, dress, and music. Chincha is only 1.5 hours from Ica.
  • Ruta del Pisco: Literally, the Pisco Route. This isn’t an official, mapped out route. Just start at one of the distilleries such as El Cantador or Vista Alegre for a tour and tasting and take a mototaxi to the next one. My personal favorite Pisco maker? Tacama!

Parks and Wildlife

  • Islas Ballestas: Penguins? Near the equator? Yup. There are also sea lions, flamingos (!), and dolphins. Take a boat tour and consider camping at Paracas National Reserve. There are campsites near El Chaco beach. The Islas Ballestas are next to Paracas, 1 hour north of Ica.
small humboldt penguin lying on ground in nature
Baby penguin!

What to Eat

On and near the coast in Peru, expect fresh fruit at low prices. Try all the juices you can find.

Seafood, including ceviche, is fresh and delicious.

Locals enjoy lots of butter beans (“pallares”), especially with beef.

For sweets, “tejas” are chocolates filled with all types of flavors and they are hard to find outside of Ica.

Where to Stay

The Upcycled Hostel in Huacachina is the best of both worlds. It’s made of 100% recycled material and comes recommended by travelers.

When to Visit Ica (Including Weather)

Ica is sunny, dry and warm year-round. But nighttime gets a little chilly. Average temperatures range from 66 F (19 C) in July to 74 F (23 C) in January.

There are even more things to do during Tourist Week in November. Nearby, Chincha has a Tourist Week in October.

How to Get There

Public buses are the most environmentally-friendly way to travel across Peru. To visit Ica take any of the major bus companies that go south of Lima.

DestinationTrip Length (Hours)Typical Cost (Soles)
Lima4-540-80
Paracas114-40
Nazca2.5 30-80
Arequipa12-13.5115-155
Cusco17.5170-180

Ica does not have an airport.

Conclusion

penguins rocks and ocean waves
Paracas National Reserve

It’s easy to add Ica to your Peru itinerary since it’s close to Lima. Definitely try slowing down your trip instead of jetting right from the capital to Cusco.

Travelers who slow it down and visit spots on the road between Lima and Cusco will have a better, even more immersive experience in this rich and beautiful country. And, of course, Ica is a GREAT option to add to any itinerary for Southern Peru.

Have you been to Ica? Do you plan on going? Let us know!

Hike Huayhuash: Our Guide to Peru’s Most Beautiful Trek

Hike Huayhuash and get away from it all. Man in red coat hiking green mountain with brown mountain in background.
Find it all at Peru’s best overlooked trek… Huayhuash!

Blue, green, and turquoise lakes. Icy peaks, flowing rivers, and glaciers. And often not a human in sight. This is your experience if you hike the globally-recognized Huayhuash.

What is Huayhuash?

Huayhuash is a private conservation area managed by local communities. It’s recognized as one of the best hikes in the world. And with only 5-7,000 visitors a year, it’s much less crowded than the Inca Trail (which sees 500 people a day!).

Huayhuash is already well-known in trekking circles, and mountain biking is available now, too.

I think the best part of Huayhuash is that you can create your own adventure. Itineraries vary from three to eighteen days. They are generally moderate to moderately strenuous, so you don’t have to be an expert mountaineer to enjoy Huayhaush.

The crazy thing is, the Huayhuash mountain chain is only 30km (19 miles) long. Yet it includes 3 departments in Peru, campsites at 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level, hot springs, turquoise lakes, glaciers, and the country’s second tallest mountain.

Why Hike Huayhuash?

Unlike most hikes in the Andes, this landscape here is more open. Because of that you’ll get amazing views of the mountain chain as you walk and rest at campsites. That’s also why Huayhuash is considered one of the world’s best hikes. Highlights include the three lakes, all different colors, and Peru’s second tallest mountain, Yerupaja. Yerupaja is 6,635 meters (21,800 feet) tall.

The movie Touching the Void (based on a true story) takes place in Huayhuash, too. You’ll get up close with the mountain that Joe Simpson and Simon Yates scaled, Siula Grande.

Plus if you hike Huayhuash you’ll directly contribute to local communities who manage the campsites. And you’ll see cool wildlife like llamas, alpacas, viscachas, Andean foxes, and condors.

Last but not least, this hike is more affordable than its more famous competition in Southern Peru.

But Huayhuash is just as good… perhaps better.

Itineraries in Huayhuash

Again, Huayhaush really is a create-your-own-adventure, which is unique for a hike that’s so highly regarded. There are options for all types of budgets and expectations.

To do the WHOLE hike, there are 15-18 day itineraries. But more visitors take a 9-10 day option or the “mini” 7-day hike. Each of these includes the main attractions of the full 18-day hike. Finally, consider a 3-day hike if you’re short on time, funds, or aren’t sure about a longer trek.

Almost all of these start in Llamac in Ancash department and include the view of three lakes. Campsites are usually at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level.

Most Common Itineraries for Huayhuash

  • 3 days: 15-20 km (9-12 miles). You’ll see a few of the major spots, all in the department of Ancash.
  • 7 days: This is the “mini” version and is considered the minimum amount of time to see most of Huayhuash, and it changes depending on visitor preference.
  • 10 days: Generally 110-115 km (about 70 miles); check out the sample itinerary below for more details!
  • 15-18 days: This is the full Huayhuash hike and the only way to see everything.
  • NOTE: All of these include one or two passes at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) a day and start in the village of Llamac in Ancash

Alternative Hiking Options for Huayhuash

Some hikes start in the thermal baths in the department of Lima and include the Raura mountain range, which is adjacent to Huayhuash. A few tour companies offer archaeology-based hikes, and several center on mountain climbing.

9-Day Example Itinerary

The most common itinerary for Huayhuash is 9-11 days. That’s because you see all the “big” attractions and aren’t going to be rushed. This is a moderately strenuous trek which includes several 8-9 hour long hikes.

Day 1

You start off in Huaraz (Ancash’s hiking capital and 8 hours from Lima). From there it’s a 2 hour ride to Chiquian, and from there 1 more hour to Llamac.

Llamac is where trek begins.

From Llamac it’s a forty minute walk to Pocpa, and a further 1.5 hours to the campsite. Another option is to continue hiking uphill to Cuartelhuain for the night.

Day 2

Start getting used to early mornings! At 7 am start the 2 hr uphill walk to Cacananpunta Pass, located at 4,750 meters or 15,580 feet above sea level. By lunchtime the hiking gets easier and you camp at Mitucocha.

Mitucocha is next to a river and you’ll chill with views of snowcapped mountains from the green valley.

Hike Huayhuash- river with rocks with green shore and snowcaps in background.
Campsite at Mitucocha.

Day 3

This is another 5 hour day of hiking. Today the tallest point is Yanapunta Pass, at 4,650 meters, or 15,260 feet. If you haven’t started, consider coca tea for the altitude.

You end up at Carhuacocha lake to camp for the night.

Yanapunta pass on Huayhuash Hike. People walking on yellow mountain with snowcaps in distance.
Yanapunta Pass. You get an idea of how massive the landscape is by the people in the middle.

Day 4

It’s the first big day! That’s because you’ll walk for 8 hours, see the 3 lakes, and go over Siula Pass, next to the infamous Siula Grande.

Siula Pass is the tallest pass of the hike so far at 4,785 meters (15,700 feet). From there you’ll get an awesome view of the three lakes and mountain range behind them.

Afterwards it’s all downhill to the Huayhuash campsite.

Suila Pass.

Day 5

This is a day of hiking for 5 hours to Viconga, where you can soak in hot springs. In case it’s not obvious, NEVER pass up a chance to soak in hot springs during a long, cold hike!

You’ll also go over Portachuelo Pass, which is about the same height as Siula, and end up at an altitude of 4,350 meters (17,560 feet) to camp for the night.

Nigh sky with starts and lit up tents below.
Viconga Campsite at night.

Day 6

By now you might be used to getting up at 7am and walking for hours. Which is exactly what you’ll do today. The total hiking time today is about 8 hours.

You’ll summit Cuyoc Pass at 5,000 meters (16,400 feet). From there you’ll view the whole Huayllapa valley and head on down to the campsite. If you have energy go to the Antonio lookout. From there you can view the entire mountain chain.

Day 7

For three hours you’ll walk to the town of Huayllapa, the first place you can buy limited food and supplies.

Rest up, make some phone calls, or just chill in town, because afterwards it’s 4-5 hours of slogging uphill to the campsite at 4,235 meters (13,900 feet).

Day 8

This is the longest day. You’ll hike for roughly 9 hours and go over two passes that are over 4,700 meters (15,400 feet) high. At the second pass, you’ll have lunch and enjoy one last great view of Huayhuash.

Hike Huayhuash- person dwarfed by large brown and yellow mountains and blue sky.
Yaucha Pass

Day 9

Today’s short and 80% of the walk is downhill. You’ll finish at the town of Pacllon. From Pacllon take a bus back to Chiquian and then Huaraz.

Tents on green shore next to river with snowcaps in background.
Campsite on the last night of the Huayhuash hike

Afterwards, rest up, eat, and bask in the knowledge that you did the most awesome hike ever.

Start thinking of how to brag to those people who could’ve come but didn’t :)

How to Prepare

How to Prepare Physically to Hike Huayhuash

Since Huayhuash is a multiday trek and the passes you’ll cross are incredibly high, it’s important to be in good hiking shape and to acclimatize to the altitude.

You can acclimatize in the city of Huaraz and take day hikes from there. First I’d take it easy in Huaraz for a couple of days since the city itself sits at 3,000 meters or 10,000 feet. Before arriving, make sure you’re in good shape and able to take on a long, sometimes strenuous hike. Practice makes perfect, so get in plenty of hiking back home beforehand.

Day Hikes from Huaraz

photo of man sitting on boat surrounded by mountains in Huascaran National park
Huascaran National Park. Photo by Alex Azabache on Pexels.com

The best hikes from Huaraz include:

  • Churup: a glacial lake and a hike that is 6 km (almost 4 miles) total. It’s 3 km up, then 3 km downhill.
  • Huascaran National Park: You can hike for hours among snowpeaks, crystalline lakes, and the famous quenual tree forest in this beautiful park.
  • Lake 69: Just like Churup, this is a completely uphill climb to a glacial lake. But the trek for Lake 69 is twice as long at 12 km (7.5 miles).
  • Paron: This lake is the largest in the Cordillera Blanca mountain chain and generally less visited than Lake 69 and Churup. The hike is 20 km (12 1/5 miles) and you may want to spend the night in nearby Caraz to get an early start.
  • Pastoruri: Pastoruri may be the easiest glacier to visit ever! You’ll spend a few hours on a bus to take the hike, which lasts about an hour.
  • Rajucolta: A 7-km (4.3 miles) hike to a beautiful glacial lake
  • Wilcacocha: 7.6 km or 4.7 miles is all you need to find yet another amazing glacial lake near Huaraz!

Huaraz is a cool town with lots of backpackers and hikers. So it’s easy to find a guide, information on how to arrive to trails, and hiking buddies.

Always stay well-hydrated at these altitudes. Avoid alcohol and caffeine initially, and consider an over-the-counter medicine to avoid altitude sickness.

Finally if you want to try a shorter multi-day hike to prepare for Huayhuash I recommend Santa Cruz, yet another hike recognized as one of the best in the world!

Glacier with person approaching. Pastoruri
Pastoruri glacier. Photo by Willian Justen de Vasconcellos on Unsplash

How to Prepare Mentally for Huayhuash

Whether you think you can or can’t, you’re probably right (Henry Ford).

Remember it’s tents outside every night when you hike Huayhuash. There are no showers and toilets are waterless. So, it’s, ahem, rustic.

If you’ve prepped enough physically, you’ll know. And just knowing may be enough. Of course, who you go with is crucial. When the air is thin, the weather cold, and my legs tired, I always want the most positive people around me.

Finally, just enjoy the hike. It’s not a race, and instead of rushing through and tiring out on Day 4, take your time and set a good pace.

How to Book Huayhuash

Responsible Tourism Professionals

Our friends, Hombres y Montañas (Men and Mountains) have worked in Huayhuash for generations. They are a family company and are professionals in responsible tourism.

Connect with them on Facebook to find out more and make a reservation.

Best time of the Year to Hike Huayhuash

May to September is the best time to hike Huayhuash because the rainy season has ended by about mid-May. The best time to go is late May and June. The vegetation will still be green and it doesn’t get as cold at night as in July or August, which are also the most popular months for trekking in the area.

Avoid traveling in the rainy season from November-April, when landslides are common and accommodations can be hard to find.

Where to Stay & Eat in Huaraz

The backpacker classic in Huaraz is Churup.

Cafe Andino and California Cafe are spots to check out for relaxing with a good book and coffee or coca tea.

There are lots of options for Peruvian food and nightlife, with 13 Buhos perhaps the best spot to grab a drink.

What to bring

The Essentials

Obviously, trekking equipment (and climbing gear if that’s your thing). For a hike similar to the one above, you should have this equipment at a minimum:

  • Backpack with water cover
  • Rain poncho, especially if it’s not June-September
  • Rainproof tent
  • Sleeping bag
  • Waterproof hiking shoes or boots
  • 2 pairs of hiking pants
  • A couple of short sleeved shirts (the weather can get surprisingly warm)
  • 2 long sleeved shirts
  • 1 set of pajamas
  • A bathing suit for Viconga and its hot springs
  • Down jacket
  • Sandals to let your feet breathe when not hiking
  • Sunglasses
  • Quick dry travel towel
  • Head lamp
  • Toiletries, including sunscreen and hand sanitizer
  • Medicine kit
  • Straw filter or similar products
  • Travel medical isurance
  • Snacks! Coca leaves are great for altitude too
  • A GPS if going alone

Nice-To-Haves

You may want to consider these, depending on your preference and how much you want to bring.

  • Solar charger for smartphone
  • Extra camera batteries
  • Trekking poles
  • Sleeping pad
  • Thermos
  • Emergency oxygen

TIPS: It’s common to rent equipment in Huaraz, or to even buy used equipment. Most agencies provide some or most of the equipment written above.

Weather

Sunset over lake and snowcapped mountains. Hike Huayhuash
Huayhuash in the morning. Photo by David Torres on Unsplash

The temperature goes down to 0-2 C (32-36 F) at night and is coldest in July. But it goes up to 20C (68F), even at high altitudes, at daytime.

Expect lighter rainstorms in May and Oct. From June through September, known as “Andean summer”, you can get clear blue skies all day, every day.

Huaraz gets up to 20C (68F) during the day and will go down to 5-6C (40’s F) at night.

How to Get There

Buses leave regularly from Lima to Huaraz all day. The trip takes 8 hours. Huaraz has an airport but flights are not always regular.

From the north, buses from Trujillo and Chiclayo go to Huaraz, too.

Cost

The cost of hiking Huayhuash is going to depend on a lot of factors, especially number of days and what’s included. Depending on price, agencies may provide 3 square meals a day, a tent, sleeping bag, a team to carry supplies, cooks, entrance to the communities’ campsites, and transportation.

Having said that huge caveat, you can expect to more or less pay these amounts for Huayhuash:

  • 3-day tour: $300
  • 9-11 days: $500-650
  • 15-18 days: Up to $1,400
  • Personalized 152km (95 mile) hike: $4,000

If going alone, make sure you pay each community for using the trail and campsites. Remember that only ONE community (Huayllapa) has shops, so you’re not restocking daily.

And expect to pay in cash.

These communities provide the following campsites:

  • Huayllapa: Viconga, Guanacpatayand Huatiaq
  • Llámac: Cuartewain and Jahuacocha 
  • Pacllon: Qashpapampa and Jahuacocha 
  • Pocpa: Pocpa
  • Queropalca: Mitucocha and Carhuacocha
  • Quisuarcancha: Carhuacocha
  • Siula Grande: Base camp
  • Tupac Amaru: Huayhuash 
  • Uramaza: Viconga lake and hot springs  :)

Conclusion

Huayhuash is among the best hikes in the world, and it’s way less crowded than Peru’s most famous hike, the Inca Trail.

Definitely consider it if adventure is in your blood. Just make sure to acclimatize to the altitude and to prepare your body first.

Again, the mountain chain’s preservation depends on local communities, so be sure to leave no trace and respect the people and wildlife. To get the most out of your trip and hike Huayhuash, check out our partners at Hombres y Montañas Huayhuash (Facebook). These guys are responsible tourism professionals who focus on adventure tourism in Ancash.

Unless otherwise noted, all photos by our friend Erick Bernabe from Hombres y Montañas. Muchas gracias, Erick!!

The Best Peruvian Coffee Experience

Oxapampa might have the best Peruvian coffee, but like the town itself, the dark roast is used to being overlooked. This region has always been a country apart. German settlers first established the town of Pozuzo in 1851, and architecture resembles 19th-century Prussia. 

The pioneers became cattle ranchers and coffee farmers. For this reason you’ll spot Oxapampinos in cowboy hats and leather boots, another way the region sets itself apart. For a while, the mother country was more tightly tied to Oxapampa than was Peru. To Spanish descendents in Lima, Oxapampa was just another part of the interior, another backwater rural province.

Wooden home with red roof and green plants.

But now Oxapampa is en vogue. The cool kids know all about the annual music festival selvamanos, and the perfect weather attracts Peruvians from all over. The history of the area is an attraction, too. There are stories of tourists arriving in “Oxa” and asking for the gringos; they come to see the white people with blue eyes and blonde hair, farming in the middle of the country.

We were going to see Janina’s family for the first time since our marriage. It was going to include  a ceremony to renew our vows, a second wedding since they did not make it to the one in the USA. I was excited to meet my in-laws. But I was just as excited to go back to the Central Jungle.

The Wild West of Peru

Arriving To Oxa

Peruvians hate open windows. Our 10-hr bus ride came with a bonus hour of traffic and bickering over whether we could open one window after leaving Lima. We lost the argument and steamed like potatoes in the stale air on the overnight route. 

So it was just another bus ride in Peru. 

Fortunately Oxapampa has epic breakfasts. Fresh milk, tamales, cecina bacon, bread, cocona jelly, and local coffee awaited us. We ate in jeans and t-shirts inside an open-air cafeteria built from logs. Maybe it was the dry heat and wooden buildings, but “Oxa” felt like the Wild West at that moment. Clouds rolled over green hills, lazily brushed away by the morning heat. 

Blue sky with green mountains and tin roof houses below. Oxapampa, Peru

Consuming Our Way Through The Central Jungle

It was a day of food. Janina’s grandmother prepared a traditional Pachamanca for lunch. Pachamanca is slow-cooked meat, potatoes, and tamal with Peruvian spices. The specific ingredients change according to the landscape. In Oxapampa they use pork. 

And nothing beats slow-cooked pork. 

Then the family showed me their homes. Years ago the gigantic estate was divided up equally among siblings. Each owns an entire transect, from the road to the top of the hill. The Hassingers were original settlers in Oxapampa. Today their descendents still harvest the fruit and coffee plants that flourish in the tropics, and most have pigs or chickens, too. 

Afterwards we had a few free days. The first thing I wanted to try was the sauna. Now, rural Peru is not known for saunas. But Janina’s cousin mentioned a “sauna rustica” that only cost S/ 5, and I was hooked. That’s UNDER 2 DOLLARS. 

She said it was 10 minutes away by foot. So on a whim I forced along my mother and Janina’s family to a small farm across the bridge under a slightly sweltering sun. Naturally the walk was 30 minutes long. 

bridge over river

Upon arrival, we realized “rustica” was not an exaggeration. It was a sauna in the loosest sense of the word. Really, it was a man-sized adobe box with a hole to stick out one’s head. Steam flowed through a tube into the structure. On the other side of the tube was a pot full of herbs and water, sitting over an open fire. 

I opened the tiny door, stood up, and poked my head out. Steam started to flow into the sauna. It was a bit warm, and the smoke from the fire made it uncomfortable to breathe. 

“Rustica”

Nobody else volunteered after Janina and me. But we were the most exfoliated people at the church that evening. 

woman in hole
Janina loving the sauna rústica!

The ceremony was short and sweet. The priest found it funny that we were renewing our vows after one year of marriage. Since he didn’t know us, that was pretty much all he talked about. 

The last morning of the trip involved a cave, a cheese factory, and a distillery. Thankfully, the last two had free samples. Sugar cane liquor was too good to pass up, and we shared a half liter after the freebies finished. A nun, who came with a busload of chaotic children, was in front of us in line. Their chaperone, apparently.

“I’ll take a double,” she told the bartender. 

handsome man in sepia tint
Sugar cane liquor, enjoyed in Sepia tint

Preparing The Best Peruvian Coffee

After lunch, held at the abuelita’s, we prepared coffee. Janina and her aunt showed me the process. First, you pick the berries when they are ripe. Then, you process the berries through a machine that turns them into pulp and spits out the white seeds, which are the actual coffee beans. The pulp is sweet and people make jelly with it. After the seeds dry on a tin roof for some days, you roast them over fire and finish the job with a manual coffee grinder. 

coffee machine (old)
This machine spits the seeds out of the coffee berries

We were slowly lumbering because of the lunch and liquor. But the earthy roast of our final product jump started everyone. It was the best Peruvian coffee I’ve had. 

Certainly there is no fresher coffee experience. And there was no need to go to the store for a filter, much less cream and sugar. One provides for themselves in this part of the interior. Janina’s family gave us a 10lb bag of coffee beans. I didn’t know at the time that this bag would begin my coffee obsession.

Older woman with pretty lady in yellow and man in baseball hat and beard
Us with Abuelita

The Struggle to Smuggle

I wanted that 10 pounds of coffee. It was the best Peruvian coffee I had tried. But I wasn’t convinced that a giant unmarked plastic bag filled with an agricultural product would pass through US customs. 

So I got creative. First, I went to a cafe in Lima and asked for empty coffee bags, which would seem more legit to a customs agent. But the barista wanted to charge more than the coffee itself would have cost. Once again, the precio gringo was screwing me over.

Then I tried to find a marker and a non-transparent bag, thinking if I wrote “cafe” on the side, it would be better. But that seemed sketchier than just carrying the unmarked, see-through bag.

Soon enough I ran out of time and stuffed the giant bag into my duffel before hailing a taxi to the airport. The coffee was on my mind the entire flight to Miami. When I arrived, I was directed to a customs official since I indicated that I had an agricultural product. 

“And what are you bringing from Peru?”

“Coffee”

The agent waved me by with the same expression that horses have when they wave flies away with their tails. Of course, Janina’s family never worried about the coffee not getting through customs. In Peru’s Wild West, one goes by their own rules.

  • Glass of delicious beer
    Delicious German beer
  • Chalk menu on chalkboard in Spanish
    Restaurants offer German inspired dishes in Oxapampa
  • Old carriage
    Cool carriage outside our hotel room
  • Front of wooden house with tropical vegetation
    Log cabin in Oxapampa

Conclusion

view of tropical vegetation from wooden porch
The view from our hotel room’s porch!

Oxapampa is one of my favorite places of all time. The weather, food, and experiences are incredibly unique and awesome.

If you’re interested in visiting Oxapampa and the Central Jungle, check out my Central Peru Adventure Guide. Or this off-the-beaten-path Peru itinerary, which includes the Central Jungle.

And if you’re too excited to wait to try the best Peruvian coffee, your best bet is organic coffee from nearby Chanchamayo. You can find this online or a local supermarket.

Leave a comment below if you love coffee or want to visit Oxapampa :)

Peru Itinerary 10 Days of Awesome!

Something about visiting Peru wakes up the underlying lust for life that too many people ignore in their day-to-day lives. This country has a fascinatingly vibrant, unique culture and provides truly world-class outdoor adventures; dull moments are rarer than a banana hammock at an American beach. So I wrote this Peru itinerary (10+ days) as a start for planning a trip to this amazing country.

Southern Peru is the region with the most famous sights: Machu Picchu, Cusco, and Lake Titicaca just to name a few. But that means there are a ton of options for hotels, tours, and experiences, which can be overwhelming.

But after years of living and traveling in Peru, I’ve done the trips and research to give my best recommendations for visitors. I like this itinerary because it fits so much into only 10 days, and there are options for travelers who have more time. And this itinerary saves money by taking the bus to destinations instead of flying.

Anywho, check this out if you’re thinking of going to Peru.

Peru Itinerary: The Best 10 Days In South America?!

Days 1 & 2: Before Llamas, Lima

Pretty much any trip to Peru starts in Lima. Try the world-class gastronomy, learn more about Peru in the country’s best museums, and do a surfing lesson.

Some visitors unfairly ignore Lima. It can seem like a sprawling, chaotic city. And it’s covered depressing grey clouds most of the year. But it’s an excellent jumping-off point for lovers of food, adventure, and history.

Where to Stay

More important than the actual hotel, is the neighborhood. Stay in the seaside areas of Miraflores and Barranco, which cater more to tourists are are safer than, say, Lima Centro.

Check out Kaminu Backpackers in artsy Barranco. Kaminu follow sustainable water practices. This is even more important in Lima, the world’s 2nd largest desert city! Kaminu also has a bbq area and bike rentals. Meanwhile, I like Casa Andina in Miraflores for a more traditional hotel experience.

Top Experiences in LIma

  • Surfing the Costa Verde
  • Renting a bike on the boardwalk (malecon) in Miraflores
  • Parasailing over the ocean at Miraflores
  • Visiting the creepy catacombs at San Francisco Cathedral 
  • Get your history on at Museo Larco (including the notorious sala erotica)
  • Eating the local fruits and dishes at Mercado Surquillo in Miraflores
  • Ceviche…. Always ceviche.
Inside the Museo Larco Herrera
Two musicians with cajon and guitar on stone street with trees and Spanish style home in background
The “box” is the traditional cajón and is popular in the coast of Peru. We got a private concert walking around Barranco.

Day 3: Head South to Huacachina

Hop on a bus (I recommend Cruz del Sur) and take the 4.5 hour ride to Ica. From the bus stop, find a taxi to take you to the oasis of Huacachina . Huacachina offers pools, discotecas, and is in the middle of Pisco country.

But in the afternoon take a dune buggy and sandboarding tour instead. That’s why people really come here, anyway. For a more eco friendly option, rent a board for only S/ 10 ($3) and hike up the dunes yourself.

Where to stay

10 days isn’t a lot for visiting Peru. For this reason, you should take the 11 hour bus to Arequipa overnight. This way you’ll save time on travel (and money on lodging!).

But if you do have more time to stay in Huacachina, there are many hotels/hostels of similar quality and price, all along the water. The Upcycled Hostel is notable for its overall vibe and because it’s made of recycled materials.

top experiences in huacachina

  • Dune buggy + Sandboarding tour
  • Or… hike the dunes and sandboard down!
  • Nearby Pisco makers and vineyards (check out Tacama)
  • Chillin at your hotel pool or bar
  • The desert at sunset

Days 4-6: Canyons & Condors in Arequipa

Arequipa’s altitude is 7,661 feet (2,361 meters) above sea level. So take it easy for a day. Take advantage of the food scene (even other Peruvians, with their vocal gastronomic opinions, say Arequipa has amazing food).

Spend the next two days exploring the stunning treks of Colca Canyon. You’ll be able to see the famous Andean condor and soak in hot springs in addition to doing unforgettable hikes. Base yourself in the Colca town of Chivay, or in Arequipa itself.

top experiences in arequipa

  • Condor watching at the break of dawn in Colca Canyon
  • Taking the 1.5 day hike to summit the El Misti or Chachani volcanoes
  • Hiking the various trails of Colca Canyon
  • Take the mesmerizing 1-day “Ruta de Sillar”
  • Visit the city’s historic center (make sure to get a pie from the Santa Catalina Monastery- those nuns know baking!)

where to stay

Casa Andina’s hotel in Chivay has a planetarium on premises (the sky is amazing at night!). Every Casa Andina location has the best breakfast buffet options in Peru IMHO. The chain has a good social responsibility program, too.

If you stay here you’ll get discounts on adventure tour options. Chivay lays between the Cruz del Condor viewing spot and the hot springs of La Calera.

And the highest-rated budget option in the city is Vallecito Backpacker.

Days 7-9: Culture & Cuzco

6 hours from Arequipa is the Inca’s ancient capital of Cuzco. You can spend weeks in and around Cuzco because there is so much adventure, history and culture to explore. But since you only have a few days, I’d prioritize Sacsayhuaman, the Qoricancha temple, San Blas neighborhood, and the San Pedro market.

Make sure to get a tourist ticket (boleto turitisco), or you won’t be able to see many of the sites. The official website for the ticket is here.

Keep in mind Cuzco is even higher than Arequipa (11,521 feet above sea level, or 3,400 meters). You’ll likely need time to acclimatize. Because of this I DO NOT recommend intense day hikes such as the Rainbow Mountain.

Take the train on Day 9 to Aguas Calientes. This way you will make it to Machu Picchu first thing in the morning. Buy tickets ahead of time, including the return trip to Cusco.

top experiences in cusco

  • A half day hike to the archaeological wonders of Tambomachay, Puka Pukara, Q’enko and Sacsayhuaman
  • The Incan Sun Temple, Qoricancha
  • Food at the San Pedro Market
  • Exploring the artsy district of San Blas
  • Day trip to a Sacred Valley town like Pisac or Chinchero for epic hike and souvenir options
  • CHOCOMUSEO!!

where to stay

I’ve stayed at Niños hotel twice and love it both times. Niños is a “Green Leader” recognized by TripAdvisor, and also funds childcare for underserved children in Cusco. It’s walking distance to the main plaza. It’s comfy, clean, and has a wonderful restaurant with fireplace.

two churches in a plaza with blue sky. Cusco, Peru
Cusco’s main plaza
rectangular stones interlaced into each other.
Cusco’s streets are full of amazing stonework, all done with no mortar

Day 10: Machu Picchu!!

The #1 visited destination in Peru has earned this distinction. But that also means Machu Picchu gets very crowded. Therefore, take the earliest bus at 6AM to enjoy the Incan citadel to yourself (at least, as much as is possible).

You can buy a ticket at the bus station the day of or the day before (recommended, since the line can be long).

Make sure to have already bought your ticket to Machu Picchu, in case they run out. Include Huaynu Picchu for the ultimate adventure experience.

Finally, plan your time accordingly so you make it on the train back to Cusco from Aguas Calientes. From Cusco, go back to Lima or your next destination.

mist coming over stone structures with green peak in background. Machu Picchu
stone architecture

If You Have More Time..

Small stone steps

Honestly, it’s tough to include more in a 10-day itinerary for Peru. But if you have more time, consider these options:

Try More Trails in Colca

Want to get in a few days of top-notch treks, without the loads of tourists in Cusco? Then head to Canaconde outside of Arequipa. You’ll get the best hikes of Colca Canyon. Plus you can stay at an ecolodge.

Lake Titicaca: The Largest Freshwater Lake on Earth

Take a 6.5 hr detour between Arequipa and Cusco to Lake Titicaca, which Peru shares with Bolivia. Check out the Uros floating islands and stay with a local family in an island like Taquile or Amantani.

The islands provide excellent hiking opportunities and cool archaeological sites. In Quechua legends, the first Incas were born in Lake Titicaca.

Stone path going down to blue lake. Lake Titicaca, Peru

Extra Options in Cusco

There are a ton of great 1-2 trips from Cusco if you have more time. I recommend Laguna Humantay or the 7 lakes hike.

Sacred Valley

It’s no longer the insider’s secret option, but staying in the Sacred Valley is a great cultural experience. Each village is unique and deserves a day or so of exploring, at least.

Consider Pisac or Chinchero for their archaeological sites and famous traditional markets. If you’re low on time, visit the cobblestoned and fortress-surrounded Ollantaytambo, where you can hop on a train to Aguas Calientes.

woman and 2 kids in bright traditional Peruvian clothes
Family we met in Ollantaytambo

Inca Trail (or an Alternative)

If you have 4+ extra days, definitely consider the Inca Trail or one of its alternatives. Here is my ultimate guide to the Trail and other options to help you decide what is best for you.

Alternatively, the budget option is to take a car to Santa Teresa from Cusco or Ollantaytambo. The next day, take a car to Hidroelectrica, and from there walk the 2-3 hours to Aguas Calientes.

This avoids paying for the train but adds days to your trip. You can save even more money by taking the strenuous 3 hr hike from Aguas Calientes up to Machu Picchu.

Amazon Adventure

Hop on a short flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado to visit the 275,000 ha (over 1 million square mile) Tambopata National Reserve!

Best Time to Go

Try to avoid the rainy season in Cusco and the jungle from November through April. Especially avoid the rainiest months, January and February. Of course, since the coast is a desert, this only applies to the Andes and jungle.

Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail are closed in February.

Conclusion

I hope this Peru itinerary (10+ days) answered questions you had or convinced you go finally make the trip to Peru!

If you’re ready to go then check out my tips on what to pack. After that, you’ll be ready.

Do you have questions on the locations or things to do in Southern Peru? Message me by email (GringoInca@gmail.com), or comment below!

Northern Peru Sample Itinerary: How To Plan Your Adventure

stone circular buildings

Northern Peru is the most difficult part of the country for crafting an itinerary. This region is huge (Peru is at its widest in its northern part), and you can’t easily access major cities. So it took some creativity to create this 10-day Northern Peru sample itinerary.

This itinerary can be used to mix-and-match with others. It’s a great way to see the jungle, mountains, and coast of Northern Peru. And you won’t feel you’re inside a bus the whole time. Finally, it’s perfect if you want to visit nearby Ecuador afterwards.

If you have more than 10 days, then check out additional options for Mancora, Iquitos, and Chachapoyas, too!

Don’t Miss The Top Experiences

Days 1-3: The Waters & Jungle of Tarapoto

Hop on the 1 hour, 20 minute flight from Lima to the jungle town of Tarapoto. Northern Peru is gigantic. So it’s hard to fit in a jungle trip if you just have 10 days. Because of this Tarapoto is an excellent option. It offers great adventure experiences and is relatively close to your next stop.

top experiences in tarapoto

  • Partying hard during happy hour at the Street of Stones (Calle de las Piedras)
  • Rafting the Mayo River
  • Having your choice of hikes to waterfalls: Huacamaillo (12 km/7.5 miles from town); Ahuashiyacu (15 km/9.3 miles out); Pucayaquillo (22 km/13.7 miles); or Carpishuyacu (34 km/21 miles).
  • Hiking the Alto Shilcayo route in the Cordillera Escalera Regional Conservation Area. This starts only 600 meters (1,969 feet) from the town’s main plaza
  • Checking out the medieval style castle of Lamas.

where to stay in tarapoto

To get a better appreciation of the jungle, check out Cordillera Escalera Ecolodge.

Days 4-7: Chacha Chillin’

Northern Peru sample itinerary: restored building at Kuelap
Restored building at Kuelap

Catch a van or bus (they start leaving at 6:30AM) to arrive to Chachapoyas early afternoon. “Chacha” is a charming, walkable, cobblestoned town. It’s surrounded by excellent history and adventure opportunities.

Close to Chacha are Peru’s tallest waterfalls and pre-Incan cities located above the clouds (Chachapoyas translates to “warriors of the clouds”). Also there are famous, mysterious mummies. And that’s all just the start.

The city is 2,335 meters above sea level (7,661). So I recommend taking it easy on your first day.

top experiences in chachapoyas

  • Day hike to some of the highest falls in Peru, Gocta or Yumbilla
  • Take the cable car to the Chachapoyas’ culture’s main citadel, Kuelap
  • Hike to the mysterious sarcophagi of Karajia
  • Visit the museum and mummies of Leymebamba
  • Walk around the canyon of Huanca next door to Chachapoyas
  • Eat a classic local snack from the market- popcorn with ants!
  • Take the Coffee Route (Ruta de Café) and explore specialty coffee shops in town
Sarcophagi of Karajia
entrance to cafe in Chachapoyas, peru
A delicious stop along Chachapoyas’ Coffee Route!
Northern Peru sample itinerary: pretty girl holding fruit at a market.
There are a TON of exotic fruits to try in Chacha and Tarapoto

where to chill in chacha

When we visited Chachapoyas we loved Casa Hospedaje Teresita. That’s because the location was great, the rooms were comfy, and the people were warm.

Days 8-9: Sipán & Surf in Chiclayo

4 palm trees with 2 bicycles and a boat and ocean in background. Pimentel beach, peru

Finish your trip enjoying delicious seafood, popular beaches, and archaeological wonders! If you can, take the night bus from Chachapoyas to save a day of travel.

top experiences in chiclayo

  • Surfing at the beaches of Pimentel and Puerto Eten
  • Exploring the Valley of Pyramids at Túcume
  • Visiting one of the top-ranked museums in the world to see the Señor de Sipan
  • Eating, souvenir shopping, and seeing a cultural show at nearby Monsefú
Puerto Eten
Tomb at the Señor de Sipan musem

where to stay in chiclayo

Most of the options in Chiclayo are standard hotels. I found well-run ecolodges hard to find. So we stayed at Casa Andina. It has a pool and an UNBEATABLE Peruvian breakfast buffet.

Day 10: Back to Lima

Fly or bus to Lima. Alternatively, take a bus or plane to the hotspot of Máncora or Cuenca, Ecuador. (See “add ons: if you have more time” below)

Northern Peru Sample Itinerary Add-ons: If You Have More Time

Reed boats next to the ocean at sunset with pier in background. Huanchaco, Peru.
Local have used these reed boats at Huanchaco for centuries! They fish and surf with these “caballitos de totora”. And you’ll spot these at the beaches near Chiclayo, too.

There are some great adventure options near each of these locations if you have a few extra days. For this reason, add one of these to your trip if you have more time:

Iquitos: Boat it Up

Instead of flying to Tarapoto, boat to Iquitos from Pucallpa. Spend some days in the world’s largest non-road accessible city. Also check out the pink dolphins and Amazonian rivers at Pacaya Samiria National Reserve.

To arrive to Tarapoto from Iquitos take a 12 hr ferry from Nauta to Yurimaguas. From Yurimaguas, Tarapoto is a 2-3 hour car ride.

Condor Lake: Combine Cool & Creepy Near Chachapoyas

Take a multiday hike from Chachapoyas. The Laguna de los Condores trek takes you to tombs abandoned over 500 years ago. This hike is based around a beautiful lake. And you’ll explore 18 ancient gravesites.

Máncora Option

Take the 5hr bus ride from Chiclayo to Mancora or nearby beaches. Máncora is a party and surf capital in the Northern coast. Check out quieter spots just north or south of the town if party towns aren’t your vibe.

Beach It Up!

If you return to Lima from Chiclayo, break up the 14.5 hour bus ride with multiple stops along the coast. Consider Huanchaco (get off at Trujillo, a 15 minute taxi ride away) or Casma. Just outside of Lima are the amazing beaches and hot springs of Norte Chico, too.

Best Time to Visit Northern Peru

Try to avoid the rainy season from November through April. Especially avoid the rainiest months, January and February. Transportation can be dangerous, and towns in general shut down in these months.

Since the coast is a desert, this only applies to the Andes and jungle.

Conclusion

I hope this Northern Peru sample itinerary helps you in trip planning!

Message me at GringoInca@gmail.com if you have questions.

Peru Sample Itinerary: The Ultimate Off-The Beaten Path Adventure

man on the hike to the mountain Apu Pariacaca
The hike to Pariacaca from Tanta (Yauyos, Lima Department)

Tourists to Peru often wonder if the regions outside of Machu Picchu and Cusco are worth visiting. As someone who once lived far off the Gringo Trail, my answer to this is OF COURSE! There are countless destinations that offer memorable adventures in this incredibly diverse, colorful country. For off the beaten path adventures -after much discussion- we chose the Central region for a Peru sample itinerary.

The region of Central Peru is especially overlooked by international tourists. But here you can zipline in the jungle, hike ancient Incan trails, and whitewater raft for the fraction of the cost in other areas. Just like the North and South, Central Peru is divided by coast, mountains, and jungle. And this itinerary takes you to all three.

Feel free to use this sample itinerary for a trip to Central Peru. Or, mix-and-match experiences; pick one of the destinations below and add it to an itinerary for Cusco and Machu Picchu.

Sample Itinerary: Central Peru

Day 1- Play, Eat & Learn Lima

Lima is overcast and grey 8 months of the year. But being home to 1/3 of Peru’s population, the city offers museums, surfboard and bike rentals, and a world-class gastronomy. Get your ceviche on, check out Museo Larco to learn about Peru’s long history, and walk around the Bohemian Barranco neighborhood.

At night take a fully-reclining seat on a buscama to Oxapampa. This trip will take 10 hours.

Where to stay

Consider Kaminu Backpackers in Barranco. They follow sustainable water practices (Lima’s located in a giant desert) and offer bike rentals. For hotels, I like Casa Andina in Miraflores.

Top experiences in lima

  • Surfing the costa verde
  • Renting a bike on the malecon (boardwalk) in Miraflores
  • Parasailing in Miraflores
  • Visiting the creepy catacombs at San Francisco Cathedral
  • Getting your history on at Museo Larco
  • Eating the local fruits and dishes at Mercado Surquillo in Miraflores
  • Ceviche…. always ceviche
woman holding surfboard

Day 2-4: Extreme Sports in The Central Jungle

Peru sample itinerary: man rappelling down waterfalls in Oxapampa, Peru

Now you’re in the Central Jungle. This area is known for the German settlements of Pozuzo and Oxapampa. It’s my favorite area in Peru; the weather is warm, the architecture Austrian, and the coffee and beer local and tasty. The weather is warm but not hot, and it gets slightly chilly at night.

clouds parting in central jungle of peru

Day 2: Stay a night at Ulcumano Ecolodge, a beautiful ecolodge on the outskirts of Oxapampa. Take advantage of the ziplines, rappelling, and hiking opportunities.

peru sample itinerary: photo of two hammocks at Ulcumano Ecolodge

Day3: Check out Rio Tigre waterfall near Oxapampa. Take a taxi ride and make the short hike and get soaked under the falls. After lunch take a combi mini-bus to Yanachaga Chemillen National Park. You can take a guided hike (free) and finish searching for Peru’s national bird, the Cock of the Rock. Hundreds of them come out at 4pm every day!

The park rangers can also show you where to camp. You’ll need your own tent, however. Otherwise catch the next combi back to Oxapampa or continue on to the old German settlement of Pozuzo for the night.

cock of the rock bird
Cock of the Rock. Yup, it’s a real, actual name

Day 4: Take time to check out the German architecture in the plaza. If you’re looking for something to do, there is a cave near Oxapampa called Tunqui which makes for a good short adventure. After lunch head to Huancayo, a 6 hour trip.

Where to stay

I recommend Carolina Egg Gesthuas in Oxapampa. The wooden cabins are big and comfy, and they have a pool and bonfire area.

Top Experiences in the Central Jungle

  • Outdoor activities at Ulcumano ecolodge
  • Hiking to the area’s waterfalls
  • Hiking, camping & birdwatching at Yanachaga Chemillen National Park
  • Drinking German beer and food at Dorcher brewery
  • Trying the self-proclaimed “best coffee in world” from nearby Villa Rica

Day 5: Rest Up In Huancayo

outside Park of Identity in Huancayo

Spend day 5 in Huancayo. Huancayo is a bustling, authentically Andean city and the jumping-off point to the North Yauyos-Cochas Landscape Reserve. Take it easy today. You’ll probably need to adjust to the altitude (10,692 feet or 3,259 meters). So, have a coca tea and avoid alcohol and caffeine.

Huancayo does provide some adventure options. A day hike to the snowcapped Huaytapallana mountain is the most popular option. The city is also famous for its artisans and is the region’s cultural capital. Definitely go to an artisan market for souvenirs.

Where to stay

Since you’re only in Huancayo to pass through, stay at a convenient place downtown like Junco y Capuli.

top experiences in huancayo

  • View the city and Mantaro Valley at Cerro de la Libertad
  • Souvenir shopping at the artesian collective next to the main plaza
  • Learning about the Peruvian internal conflict at the art museum Yalpana Wasi
  • Visiting Parque de la Identidad (Wanka Identity Park). This small park pays tribute to local culture with stone structures, statues and native flora. Buy a chicha drink from the woman at the front door!

Days 6-8 YOLO in Yauyos!

mountain landscape in Yauyos, Peru
Sunset from Vitis, Yauyos province- my old home :)

Day 6: If you’re going to make a sample itinerary for Peru based on off-the-beaten path areas, the beautiful region of Yauyos must be considered!

Catch an early morning combi mini bus or shared taxi (collectivo) to the Nor-Yauyos Cochas Landscape Reserve. Here the weather will be cold at night and warm in the afternoon, much like Huancayo. Go to the centrally-located town of Alis to start your day.

You can stay at a local bed and breakfast-type of location (hospedaje) and make day trips to other villages. Or, you can spend the night at the other towns (which is easier). Either way, you have a few options:

Laraos

  • Take a bus or shared taxi to Laraos. Laraos has UNESCO world heritage-listed terraces, a famous disappearing lake, and impressive archaeological sites.

Miraflores

  • Take a bus or shared taxi to Miraflores. There you can hike for a couple of hours alongside a mountain to the old town of Miraflores, abandoned in 1912. The Central Mountain Range of Peru runs through Miraflores. So you’ll get even more excellent views of snowcapped peaks. You can hike down from the town to catch a car to Huancaya.

Huancaya

  • Take a bus or shared taxi to Huancaya. Huancaya is the most popular destination in the Reserve because of its blue cascades and turquoise lakes. Next door, Vitis offers a 3-hr hike to a pre-Incan site called Cochaswasi. Further past Huancaya (about 2 hours in car) is the village of Vilca, which has more lakes and an impressive Quenual forest. The trees are straight out of a fairy tale. You can camp in Huancaya next to the waterfalls or book a room at a locally-run spot like Hostal Huancaya.
cascades of Huancaya peru
Cascades in Huancaya

Days 7 & 8: Spend two days in the destination of choice or split your time among multiples places.

Day 9 & 10: Raft & Bike in Lunahuaná

people whitewater rafting

Day 9: Take one of the buses or shared cars that leave every morning for Lima. But, instead of getting off at the end of the line, stop at the weekend warrior spot of Lunahuaná. Here you can whitewater raft, mountain bike, and taste local wines and Pisco.

Lunahuaná is about 5 hours from the center of the Reserve downhill, so the weather is dry and warm. Lima is only 3 hours away.

Where To Stay in Lunahuaná

Hotel Quilla Wasi is reasonably priced and offers services that you’ll appreciate after being on the road for so long (HELLO, laundry service!!!)

Day 10: Finish up any activity you want to try in Lunahuaná, then take a shared car or bus to Lima.

If You Have More Time

  • Take a shared car or bus from Oxapampa to Villa Rica for a coffee tour, in arguably Peru’s best coffee town.
  • Hike in the Forest of Love (Bosque de Amor) in Vilca. This is 2 hours from Huancaya.
  • Further on from Vilca, visit the village of Tanta. The village provides guide and porters for a 2-day trek to the snow-capped mountain deity (Apu in Quechua) named Pariacaca. You’ll be on an ancient Incan path the entire time- a true Inca Trail.
  • Before ending your trip in Lima, get off the bus from Lunahuaná at the surfing hotspot Punta Hermosa. Here you can rent a board to catch some waves, or just enjoy the delicious seafood!

Best Time to Go to Central Peru

Try to avoid the rainy season from November through April. Especially avoid the rainiest months, January and February. Transportation can be dangerous, and towns in general shut down in these months. Of course, since the coast is a desert, this only applies to the Andes and jungle.

Conclusion

I hope this sample itinerary for Peru helps you in planning your adventure. Do you have questions or comments? Email us at GringoInca@gmail.com or comment below. Gracias!

Inca Trail Alternative: The Ultimate Hike

Men whitewater rafting
Photo by Rune Haugseng on Unsplash

The Adventurer’s #1 Inca Trail Alternative

Is it possible to find a one-size-fits-all solution to the problem of balancing time and budget limits with a thirst for adventure? This is especially tough in places like Cusco, which are already expensive without additional add-ons. But the Extreme Inca Tour is an Inca Trail alternative that might solve the problem for thrill-seekers.

You can get in your adventure activities (hiking, whitewater rafting, mountain biking, and ziplining) and still visit Machu Picchu. And the cost is around average for a good tour service to Machu Picchu.

Why The Extreme Inca Tour?

I discovered Cachi Life while searching for podcasts on visiting Peru. Their Peru Travel Podcast is a great resource for anyone visiting Cusco or Machu Picchu.

Cachi Life emphasizes working directly with local people for tourism services. This is important to me, since some tour providers ignore local communities and their needs (even while taking advantage of the natural and cultural richness of those communities!).

Cachi gives the traveler a fuller experience since locals are at the forefront of the company. Plus, the company pays fair wages (which is not always the case in Peru, sadly). They also work directly with local Quechua villages in implementing community projects.

The 4 Days Broken Down

Like the original Inca Trail, this tour is 4 days and 3 nights. However the Extreme Inca Tour goes the “back way” to Machu Picchu via Santa Theresa. On the way you’ll mountain bike, whitewater raft, hike, and zipline.

What’s Included

  • English-speaking guide
  • Ticket for Machu Picchu
  • Mountain Bike + Safety Gear
  • Lodging (hotels)
  • Meals
  • Wifi
  • Transportation to and from hotels
  • Return train ticket

What’s Not Included

For these you have to pay more:

  • Tips for the guide, porters and cooks
  • Huaynu Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain
  • Zipline option
  • Whitewater Rafting option
  • Hot Springs in Santa Theresa
clouds with mountains

Day 1: Bike & Raft to the Jungle

On Day 1 the tour includes mountain biking and whitewater rafting. Cachi picks you up at the hotel, from which it’s 3-4 hours to the Abra Malaga Pass. Then you’ll descend over 3,000 feet (900 meters) in an adrenaline-packed distance of only 60km (37 miles). You’ll end at Santa Maria.

After lunch you have the option of taking a 2-hour whitewater rafting trip. The rapids are class III-IV. Since the biking won’t involve much pedaling, this is your chance to really get the blood flowing in warm, tropical Santa Maria.

Day 2: Hike with Monkeys & Soak in Springs

Of course, any route to Machu Picchu has to include hiking! Trek through jungle where you can spot monkeys, parrots, and try local coca and chocolate. The distance is 15km (9.3 miles). In Santa Theresa you can soak off in the hot springs to finish the day (always recommended :) ).

Day 3: Zipline!!!!

This starts with 6 ziplines up to 150 meters (492 feet!) in the air! Then you’ll hike 2.5 hours to Hydroelectrica for lunch. From there it’s a 2 hour hike next to the train tracks to Aguas Calientes.

Day 4: Machu Picchu

Llama at Machu Picchu
Photo by Willian Justen de Vasconcellos on Unsplash

You have to option to get up early for Machu Picchu. I really recommend this, because you can witness sunrise at the Sun Gate. This is described as a peak, even spiritual, moment for many visitors. The Extreme Inca Tour includes a 2-3 hour guided tour of Machu Picchu. Definitely consider purchasing a ticket for Huaynu Picchu, but make sure you have enough time to catch the train to Cusco.

Things I Don’t Like

There are a couple of things I don’t like about this tour, though. Every night you are in a hotel. Although that can be nice, it’s hard to say you did an “extreme” alternative to the Inca Trail and didn’t sleep under the stars for one night!

Maybe it’s the secret hippie in me, but I like the idea of not needing a hot shower or a bed for a few days. Especially if the story ends at Machu Picchu.

Of course, the views and towns you see on this experience are still amazing and beautiful. The Andes are always fascinating no matter where you sleep.

Also, the whitewater rafting and zipline are optional. So you’ll have to pay more to do these. But, the price is still within normal range for a quality Inca Trail tour, even with these additional costs.

Next Steps

Man jumping with mountains and river in background. At Machu Picchu Mountain
Me literally taking the leap at Machu Picchu Mountain (and terrifying my mother)

So if you’re looking for some adventure in Peru, consider the Extreme Inca Tour. You’ll have an unforgettable experience and visit the world wonder of Machu Picchu. The price is good too, considering the multiple activities and tickets involved (Machu Picchu and the train back to Cusco).

Plus, most alternatives to the Inca Trail don’t include a ticket to Machu Picchu. However, this one will have you at the Sun Gate on the sunrise of Day 4. That is an enviable option!

view of Machu Picchu with cloud, zigzag roads, stone structures and mountains, from Huaynu Picchu

This is also a great choice if you want to do the Inca Trail but aren’t crazy about camping outside for 4 days straight. Finally, Cachi has an excellent reputation, and you’ll be going with a company that prioritizes ethical tourism.

If you’re looking to get dirty and camp under the stars on the way to Machu Picchu, consider another Inca Trail alternative. In fact, Cachi has a regular Inca Trail tour, plus other options like Salkantay and Choquequirao. But if you want a good deal for a multi adventure experience, culminating at Machu Picchu, you can’t beat this tour in price and quality.

Still interested? Here’s a link to read more or make a reservation on the Extreme Inca Tour:

Extreme Inca Tour

Let me know if you ended up reserving the Extreme Inca tour or something else in the comment section below!