Just because a hike isn’t the official Inca Trail doesn’t mean it’s not epic (or Incan). The big names like Salkantay and Lares are worthy of the worldwide attention they receive. But before you take on a multiday excursion (or in lieu of one), you should acclimate to the altitude with a solid one-day hike.
Certainly, picking just one isn’t easy. After all, the region of Cusco abounds in epic hikes of all durations and difficulties. But these five stand out for having the cultural and natural beauty that pull in tourists from thousands of miles, all packed into one day.
General Tips
Acclimatize: First of all, spend a full day in Cusco to acclimatize to the altitude before embarking on a day hike. Stay hydrated (avoid caffeine and alcohol), and remember that coca tea is your friend!
Pack: Cash (Peruvian nuevo soles) and plenty of water and snacks. You’re close to the sun at over 11,000 feet, so sunblock and a good hat are necessities. Clothes-wise, layers are the general guide since temperatures range greatly between chilly mornings and warm, sunny afternoons. And a basic first aid kit is essential.
Weather: Expect rainy afternoons in the wet season (November through April). Short afternoon showers are not uncommon the rest of the year.
Best Day Hikes Near Cusco
Huchuy Qosqo: The Royal Estate
Distance: 12 miles/20 km
Elevation Change: 2,198 feet (670 meters)
Highlight: A visit to this impressive Incan royal estate will bring you to the beautiful Sacred Valley. While hiking you’ll take in views of both the Valley and the Vilcabamba mountain range. Huchuy Qosqo means “Little Cusco” in Quechua, and surprisingly few tourists visit its well-preserved buildings.
Difficulty: Medium to medium-hard. This depends on how acclimatized you are to the altitude. The highest point is 14,173 feet (4,230 meters). Compare that with Cusco at 11,023 feet (3,360 meters)!
Tips: To arrive, take a 45 minute shared car (colectivo) going to Chinchero from Cusco. A short taxi ride from the Chinchero stop will get you to the trailhead. Expect to pay about S/25 ($7-8) per person for the colectivo plus taxi. Be prepared to pay the S/7 entrance fee (about $2.50) as well.
Pisac Archaeological Site: Explorer’s Dream
Distance: 6.7 miles/10.8km
Elevation Change: 1,755 feet/535meters
Highlights: This and the famous (and now less traditional) artesian market put Pisac on the travel map years ago. The architecture rivals that of Machu Picchu and Ollantaytambo. You’ll also witness fabulously-well-maintained Incan terraces and one of the few intihuatanas outside of Machu Picchu.
Difficulty: Medium-Hard. This is a steep climb, but being in the Sacred Valley, the starting point is at a lower altitude (10,827 feet/3,300 meters) than Cusco.
Tips: The trailhead starts near the plaza in Pisac, which is a 1 hr – 1 hr 15 minute car ride from Cusco. To visit the site you need a Cusco tourist ticket (boleto turistico), and make sure to buy one that includes Pisac. A tourist ticket will cost a minimum of S/70 (about $20); there are multiple options.
Siete Lagunas: The Wildlife Route
Distance: 9.9 miles/16km
Elevation Change: 2,297 feet/700 meters. This trail starts at 13,451 feet/4,100 meters above sea level.
Highlights: Wildlife and nature! Andean animals abound, from soaring condors and wooly alpacas to the rabbit’s mountain-inclined cousin, the vizcacha. Seven glacial lakes for which this trek is named provide prime viewpoints for the sacred snowcap, Ausangate. This mountain is considered a diety (apu) to locals.
Difficulty: Medium
Tips: Dress for cold and wet weather. It’s also not a bad idea to go with a local guide or at least a group of fellow hikers because of this hike’s isolated location. It starts in Pacchanta, a 3-4 hours’ car ride from Cusco. Bring swimming clothes and enjoy Paccchanta’s natural hot springs for a post-hike warmup.
Sacsayhuaman-Q’enko-Puka Pukara-Tambomachay: A Walk from Your Hotel
Sacsayhuaman’s walls are made up of giant boulders (notice there is no mortar)
Distance: 3.2 miles/5.2km
Elevation Change: 709 feet/216meters from Cusco.
Highlights: Explore these four archaeological sites while enjoying wonderful views of Cusco below. Each has its own calling card: Tambomachay’s centuries-old water features, Puka Pukara’s valley views, Q’enko’s mystery, and Sacsayhuaman’s cultural and historical importance.
Difficulty: Easy-medium
Tips: Ask how to get to Sacsayhuaman or use an online map to get started from your hotel in Cusco. Once in Sacsayhuaman, the path to each following site is well-marked. You need a tourist ticket (boleto turistico) to visit each one. Consider hiring a guide at Sacsayhuaman, the largest and most impressive of the four. You can retrace your steps back to Cusco or take a car.
Waqra Pukara: Newly “Discovered”
Distance: 7.8 miles/12.5km
Elevation: The trail starts at 13,274 feet/4,046 meters above sea level and ends at Waqra Pukara, an elevation of 13,800 feet/4,206 meters.
Highlights: An uncrowded site with Incan and pre-Incan characteristics. And that’s not to mention spectacular views of the valley, mountains, and Apurimac River below.
Difficulty: Easy-Medium
Tips: It’s best to go with a guide or a group, since this is a little-used, isolated trek. There are multiple paths to Waqra Pukara; the Rinconada to Waqra Pukara, then to Santa Lucia is our recommended option. That’s because it is a loop and not an out-and -back, meaning you’ll get more stunning views of the valley and mountains.
Best Day Hikes Near Cusco- Conclusion
You can’t go wrong with any hike in the Cusco area, but hopefully this list will help you decide which to choose. From the nature route (Siete Lagunas) to the archaeology lesson (Pisac), each stands out for its uniqueness.
You may have noticed we didn’t include the shortInca Trail. That’s because while this is sold as a day hike, it’s truly a two-day experience. Day 2 is a visit to Machu Picchu, often with another short hike involved.
We also didn’t mention Vinicunca (“Rainbow Mountain”). That’s our own personal prejudice; in our opinion, any day trip to Vinicunca involves way too much time in a car. It’s definitely a better multiday experience.
By now, we don’t need to explain what makes Machu Picchu and Cusco so special (and therefore so popular). But do you wonder what the area was like before it became a tourist epicenter?
The attraction of traveling off the beaten track is that the experience may feel more authentic, and certainly more adventurous. But you must be flexible. Transportation, lodging, and locals’ sense of time (and urgency) may not match those of tourist hotspots.
However, if you settle in and don’t fight sometimes-frustrating phenomena like Peruvian time (hora peruana), exploring the interior will result in a wonderfully fulfilling adventure. The people enhance it; from cities to tiny hamlets, Peruvians are generous, grateful, and happy to help. And they are always sure to inform you which foods you still need to try.
Here we break down 8 spots to visit off the beaten track in Peru by region (Northern, Central, and Southern Peru).
Northern Peru
This is Peru’s least-visited region, although it does have well-trodden destinations such as Mancora and Chachapoyas. Northern Peru claims to have the country’s best food and owns the title of world’s greatest ceviche (they credit the local limes). Here the coast is greener, the history of the Inca’s rivals reverberates, and you won’t ever feel that you’re being funneled through a tourist trap.
Chiclayo
Not the city per se, although its witches market is noteworthy. There are plenty of treasures for travelers within an hour of town. The museum of the Royal Tombs of Sipan mesmerizes with undisturbed remains of Northern Peru’s ancient, gold-festooned rulers. The pyramids of Túcume will wake up your inner archaeologist as well.
For water sports, try Pimentel or Puerto Eten. Finally, the market area at Monsefú has locally-made crafts (plus hands-down the best ceviche I’ve ever had).
Chiclayo is a short flight or a long bus ride (14 hours) from Lima.
Playa Lobitos
Even the snobbiest beach critics have to love Lobitos’ wonderful weather and water. Despite being known for solid surf breaks, Lobitos isn’t overcrowded (unlike nearby Mancora). Surfing isn’t the only water activity, though, and make sure to try that famous Northern Peruvian ceviche!
Take a 1hr, 50 minute flight from Lima to nearby Talara or a 2-3 hour car from the city of Piura.
Tarapoto
This medium-sized city (pop. 180,000) is the largest in jungle-laden San Martin department. Adventure into the Amazon rain forest, hike to countless waterfalls, and even check out a Medieval castle in nearby Lamas. There are private conservation areas, such as Cordillera Escalera, which protect primary forest and provide direct sources of income for locals, too.
Tarapoto is a 1-hour flight from Lima. Or if you’re already in Northern Peru, take a bus from Chachapoyas (8 hours).
Central Peru
Pretty much any visit to Peru involves Lima, but the rest of Central Peru is virtually ignored. It’s true that the “Gringo Trail” has grown a new offshoot, going south of Lima to the oasis of Lunahuaná and the Nazca lines. But this region is more than its coastal treasures. You can hike in an UNESCO biosphere reserve, mountaineer Peru’s tallest peaks, and stay in traditional Quechua towns. Adventure is just an overnight buscama away!
Huaraz
Literally some of Peru’s (and the world’s) best hikes are near Huaraz. The 4-day Santa Cruz and longer Huayhuash treks are the most famous. But there are plenty of fascinating day hikes too, such as to Laguna 69. The glaciers are popular for mountaineering as well.
This small city sits at 3,052 meters (about 10,000 feet) above sea level. So make sure to acclimate to the altitude before hiking!
Buses leave throughout the day and night from Lima to Huaraz for the 8-hour journey.
Lunahuana
Rafting is the top activity in Lunahuaná, an oasis that borders the Cañete River in the dry foothills outside Lima. A pleasant climate, fresh air and several restaurants seal the deal.
The trip is only 3 hours if you hire a private car or sign up for a tour. The town sits on the road for the Nor-Yauyos Cochas Landscape Reserve. This Reserve is home to traditional villages, hikes to little-visited archaeological sites, and captivating cascades.
Oxapampa
Austrian immigrants arrived here in the 1800s, and they brought their architecture (and beer). Locals may not wear lederhosen or speak German anymore, but the fun sensation of being in tropical Tyrol lingers.
The region is an UNESCO biosphere reserve, and it has the wildlife and adventures of one. Hiking and birdwatching for Peru’s national bird, the cock-of-the-rock, is possible in Yanachaga-Chemmillen National Park. Several conservation areas protect the selva alta ecosystems. You can stay at some, including Ulcumano with its private lodges, canopy bridges, and ziplines!
Weather is springlike most of the year, but it’s colder in the rainy season (November-March). Buses leave throughout the day and night from Lima. It’s an 8-10 hour trip.
San Bartolo
This splendid horseshoe-shaped beach is famous for its surf breaks. Bonus: bodysurfers can usually catch waves here, too. Alternatively, chowing down some seafood on a hillside restaurant adjacent to the shore provides for a chill lunch. Add a couple beers to the mix, and you’ve got an afternoon.
San Bartolo is only a couple hours south of Lima, and several bus companies take you there.
Southern Peru
With Machu Picchu and Cusco, Southern Peru is by far the most popular region for visitors. Even smaller attractions in the Sacred Valley are peddled on tour websites nowadays. But explore further out and the traditional ways of life, warm villagers, and miraculously solitary sites may be your trip’s highlights.
For people staying closer to the hotspots, take an alternative Inca Trail for an off-the-beaten track Peru option. Or take in an Amazonian adventure in Tambopata, starting with a barely-one-hour flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado.
Cotahuasi canyon
Colca Canyon’s less-famous brother has fantastic hiking, rafting, and cultural immersion opportunities. The Cotahuasi River has class IV and V rapids, while the trekking is world-class due to the canyon’s depth of 11,595 feet (3,534 meters). Farmers herd llamas and plant quinoa and other traditional Andean crops. And you’ll be certain to have an Incan or pre-Incan archaeological site all to your own.
Stay in the town of Cotahuasi or bring camping equipment to stay at the Cotahuasi Sub-basin Landscape Reserve. Cotahuasi is an 8 hour bus ride from Arequipa, Peru’s second-largest city.
Off the Beaten Track Peru: Conclusion
At the size of 3 Californias, Peru holds too many overlooked treasures to be listed. This article is just meant to provide a starting point, and each of the locations provides its own off-the-beaten path flavor. I suggest adding them to one of our own curated itineraries for Northern, Central or Southern Peru. Or if. you’re getting started, check out our guide for visiting Peru.
Because castles, cafes, mountains, and Mozart. That’s right; we’re off to Austria! We’ll be taking a stroll in Tyrol during our first trip to this landlocked country. But first we’ll be in the elegant Vienna, the cultural and political capital. And as always, we’ll balance everything out with a hike or two. This is what our 8-day itinerary for Austria looks like:
Our 8-Day Itinerary for Austria
Day 1-4: Vienna
We’ll start off in the epicurean epicenter of Vienna, where Mozart lived and the cool kids still attend black-tie balls. Here are a few highlights we’re looking forward to enjoying:
Strolling around the Historic Center, including checking out St. Stephen’s cathedral
Choosing which attractions to visit in the Museumsquartier section
We’re going to stay in an over-century-old hotel just outside the Historic Center. On the final night we’ll hope to catch some sleep on the Nightjet train to Innsbruck, a 7-ish hour ride.
Day 5, 6: Innsbruck
Next is the Tyrollean city of Innsbruck, a focal point of fun in the Austrian Alps. We only have two days and so won’t be able to do everything, but a few things that caught our attention are:
Neuschwanstein castle. Because it looks friggin’ fantastic, and being from the Americas, castles are the ultimate novelty for us.
Mierders alpine coaster, or any mountain coaster. Because adrenaline.
Hiking. It’s spring in the Alps- what else would we do?!
There a lots of cool-looking breweries, museums and tours in the actual city of Innsbruck. So we’ll have our hands full deciding what to do.
Day 7: Towns of Tyrol
Day seven is going to be a bit loco. We are going sightseeing in a couple of picturesque towns near Innsbruck. We’re especially excited for waterfalls, castles, and to explore the medieval downtown in the village of Pfunds!
We splurged for a compartment on the Nightjet train back to Vienna to ensure we’re well rested after all this exploring :)
Day 8:Vienna
Our last day will be where we started! We’re staying in the middle of Vienna’s historic center in a fancy hotel. We justified the cost by booking the night train for two evenings earlier in the trip.
Packing List
Our goal is to travel without checked luggage, but that will be a challenge with an 18lb weight limit for carry-ons. Temperatures in both Vienna and Innsbruck will range from 40-70F (4.4-21.1C), and it will likely rain some days. So we’ll have to pack versatile clothes that layer well. And we’ll have to balance that with hiking clothes and our camera.
Right now my packing list looks like this:
Hiking shoes or boots
Socks, underwear
Two pairs of easy walking pants
Shirts for layering: two short-sleeved, two long-sleeved, one thermal
Sweater
Coat or rain jacket
Sunglasses
GoPro and charger
Phone and charger
Book
Notebook
Sweater
Wallet with credit card and cash
Passport!
Where We’re Staying
This trip is all hotels (except for the two night trains). We didn’t find Austria’s hotel options to be limited or too expensive. And of course the two nights on the train saved us some lodging money.
While we considered a more economical option like a pension or hostel, we decided to go with non-big-chain hotels for a comfortable and real experience (and the included breakfast!).
Why Austria in May
We didn’t specifically choose to go to Austria in May, but this month is a great time to visit if you want to avoid crowds and high prices. Summer visitor numbers peak in July, and prices climb in winter due to Christmas and outdoor sport attractions.
May is spring in Austria, so the weather is warming up and trees and flowers are blooming. Because of that, it’s a spectacular time to go hiking in Austria.
Conclusion
The reason we picked Austria was to connect with Janina’s ancestral history. But we’re also psyched for the adventure and cultural options! Plus it’s our first time in Central Europe.
Be on the look out for our complete guide for visiting Austria, which we will publish soon. We’re also preparing guides for each major city and the best hikes in the country. Stay tuned!
This is a refreshingly rugged, culturally-rich land that offers a top-notch food scene and an endless menu of outdoor activities. The vertiginous Andes provide some of the best hiking experiences in the world (and seriously scary bus rides). You may already know that Cusco and Machu Picchu are the main draws with their cultural and historical significances. And because of this, most tourists head directly to Southern Peru.
Now, Southern Peru is objectively amazing, but below I’ll explain why you should also visit areas outside of the “gringo trail”.The diversity of cultures, wildlife, and climates in Peru create opportunities for memorable experiences all over the country and not just in one region. Because of this, your trip for Peru just may be the most memorable you’ve ever had.
But before you travel to Peru, make sure you are properly prepared. This includes picking the place or activity you simply cannot miss and having enough time (and cash) to do so. This article includes everything you need to get started.
Best Time to Travel to Peru
Generally the best time to travel to Peru is from May to September, as you’ll avoid the rainy season in the Andes and the jungle. Unfortunately these months are Lima’s cloudiest and chilliest. The Northern coast is warm and sunny year round.
If you’re looking for awesome discounts, the rainy season is ideal. But you’ll have to be flexible because roads and trails often close due to the conditions. The sweet spot for cost and convenience are the shoulder months- April and October.
How Much Money do I Need?
Unfortunately, this is a loaded question with no straight answer. The amount of money you need to visit Peru will depend on the choices you make:
Will you stay in a hotel with a private bathroom, or a shared-bedroom hostal?
Will you take a plane between cities, or are you OK taking it slower and going by bus?
How many days do you plan to be in the more touristy cities compared to places that rarely have visitors?
More than anything, pick the one or two activities you MUST do when in Peru. This may be visiting Machu Picchu (including train tickets), hiking the Inca Trail, or surfing in Mancora. Budget for these must-do activities and ensure you have enough for lodging, food, souvenirs, and transportation.
As a general guide, these are the average prices for things in Peru:
Budget hotel room (not shared): $30
Lunch: $5-8
Cocktail: $3-4
Overnight bus ride (7-9 hours): $10-35
Intercity plane ticket: $50-150
Souvenirs: varies; a comfy hand-made alpaca wool hat can go for $5-8
Prices are almost always in Peru’s currency, the NuevoSol, but US dollars are accepted. One USD is worth 3-4 soles depending on the current rate.
Haggling is typical in markets, but don’t expect the price to drop by more than about 5-15%. Tipping is only expected in restaurants in big cities, and in those cases 10% is enough. In other cases, it is always appreciated but not expected.
Finally, have cash on hand, especially in small towns and rural areas.
How Much Time do I Need?
Peru is over three times larger than Italy, and its crazy geography means you won’t find any transportation remotely like the high-speed trains of Europe or Japan. Because of this, we recommend picking a region and staying there for a bit. This provides a richer, more immersive experience, and you’ll avoid feeling you’ve been in a plane/bus/car the entire trip.
Also, if you visit the Andes (and you SHOULD), anyone coming from a lower altitude must take a day or two to adjust before hiking or other activities. Add a couple of days to your time in Cusco or whichever Andean city is first on your itinerary for this.
Finally, to answer the question: We recommend 10 days as the absolute minimum for visiting Peru. That’s because the country is large, not particularly easy to get around, and offers so much to enjoy.
Travel to Peru: Requirements
Vaccines for Peru
In addition to routine vaccinations, you should be up-to-date with the following vaccines:
Hepatitis A & B
Measles
Rabies
Typhoid
Yellow Fever (especially if traveling to the jungle)
People going to certain areas of the jungle should take anti-malarial drugs, too. Always consult a doctor before traveling.
Visa Requirements for Peru
People from the Andean Community countries, European Shengen area, USA, and Canada can visit without getting a visa ahead of time. The same goes for Ireland, the UK, most of South and Central America, and the Caribbean.
Peru’s Foreign Relations Ministry has an updated list of visa-free countries here.
Packing List
Each geography and climate is so drastically distinct in this country that your packing list will depend on the exact destination(s) you have in mind. Having said that, there are a few basics that you’ll need regardless of your destination or activity. Read our full article on what to pack for Peru for more info!
Where to Visit in Peru
The Big-Ticket Spots
The torreon (tower/turret) at Machu Picchu
Let’s start with the most-visited destinations in Peru. In general, there is more tourist infrastructure at these locations, although during the peak months of June-August the most popular spots get more crowded than a college party with free beer.
It’s not all just crowds, though; each of these is popular for good reason, and less-touristy spots are never too far away.
Arequipa
Peru’s 2nd-largest city sits at 7,661 feet above sea level in a valley surrounded by volcanoes and snow-capped peaks. Arequipa is considered to be safer and cleaner than Lima (and it may even have better food, if that’s possible!). Nearby, the planet’s two deepest canyons (Cotahuasi and Colca) provide terrific treks through traditional villages and world-famous condor viewing.
Tip: If you’re going to Southern Peru, head to Arequipa before Cusco or Puno. This way you’ll acclimatize to the altitude more gradually.
Chachapoyas
“Chacha” has gradually received more tourists in the past decade, especially since its airport opened. The cobblestoned city is a beautiful base for visiting archaeological sites such as Kuelap, which is the most impressive Chachapoyan site that we know of today. Day hikes to some of the tallest waterfalls in the world are a most awesome highlight, too.
Cusco
If you’re going to travel to Peru, then the ancient Incan capital has to be considered. The city is a time machine; its pristine historic center is nearly identical to its look 500 years ago. From Cusco you can venture into the Sacred Valley and on to Machu Picchu.
Tip: Make sure you tour the city, including making time to visit the museums, nearby archeological sites and the Qorinkancha temple before trekking to the Lost City of the Incas. And eat a sopa verde when the evening gets cold.
Huaraz
Much like Chachapoyas, Huaraz doesn’t receive the same amount of attention as Cusco and Lima. But this place is a trekker’s and climber’s dream. The standout hikes are the resplendent, 4-day Santa Cruz and the multiday Huayhuash. Day trips to glacial lakes and a visit to Alpine-like Huaraz National Park are perfect for anyone looking to sleep in a hotel bed every night.
Tip: Take a comfy, overnight buscama from Lima, and you’ll get a decent enough night’s sleep without losing a day of travel (or paying for a hotel)!
Ica, Paracas and Nazca
This area just south of Lima is packed with pisco, sandboards and a literal desert oasis. You need to take a plane to see all of the mesmerizing and enigmatic Nazca Lines, although you can spot some of them from towers in and around Nazca.
Tip: Take a bus to Ica from Lima (4-5 hours), then hit the road to Arequipa afterwards.
Iquitos
Smack-dab in the middle of Northern Peru’s Amazon, this is Earth’s largest non-road-accessible city. Most people fly here, but rugged and adventurous (or crazy) types take the boat.
At 12,507 feet above sea level, this is the world’s highest navigable lake. The scenery is striking, the weather brisk, and the culture captivating. Most people agree that the Bolivian side is better, but don’t overlook the floating Uros islands. Even better, consider staying with a local family in Taquile or Amantini island for a cultural experience, and a night sky, that you’ll never forget.
Lima
Peru’s cluttered capital is often depressingly cloudy and just not as enticing as its Andean and Amazonian counterparts. But you’ll probably arrive here since those other cities don’t have large international airports. Prepare to be pleasantly surprised with the seaside neighborhoods of Barranco and Miraflores- oh, and the continent’s most famous food scene!
Machu Picchu
Almost every visitor makes it to Peru’s (and perhaps South America’s) most recognizable spot. And we have entire articles about not only Machu Picchu, but the treks to and within the site as well. The best recommendation anyone can give is this: make sure you have plenty of time at the actual site of Machu Picchu when booking your hotel and train tickets!
Mancora
Peru’s most popular beach hangout is a great surfing spot. It’s warm and sunny all year, and the party never stops. Towns just a few kilometers north and south of Mancora provide a more intimate experience.
Manu/Tambopata
The heart of the Peruvian Amazon is a short plane ride from Cusco and Lima. You’ll get the chance to learn how the locals survive and thrive in the world’s largest rainforest, and sports such as kayaking and hiking are popular. Definitely go with a guide and consider an all-inclusive lodge.
Sacred Valley
The area outside of Cusco is peppered with picturesque pueblos. Each has a claim to fame, from Incan sites that rival Machu Picchu to amazing, traditional textiles and colorful markets. There are some excellent hiking and mountain biking opportunities, too.
Tip: Avoid the Sacred Valley day trips from Cusco, unless you’re really into getting to know the insides of a Peruvian bus. Instead, spend a few nights in one of the towns such as Chinchero, Ollantaytambo, Pisac or Urubamba.
Off the Gringo Trail
When you travel to Peru, the most memorable moments could be far off the well-trodden routes referred to as “The Gringo Trail”. I’ll never forget chewing bitter coca leaves with ladies in bowler hats and ponchos, waiting for the pounding rain to let up as we crouched into a nook on the side of the mountain and they described their day-to-day life with me. Or sipping a delightfully dark artisanal coffee, sourced mere meters from my table, while the sun rose over the cloud forest and warmed my face.
Definitely go to the big-ticket spots that catch your fancy; you won’t regret it. But make sure to take a side trip to a place where tourism isn’t the main form of income for the locals. It’s a different, slower vibe, and you’ll feel the “real Peru” that the custom tour crowd misses.
Chiclayo
Pimental beach near Chiclayo
Go to Chiclayo for the nearby archaeological sites and museums, especially the Lord of Sipan museum. Local beach towns are popular among Peruvians, even though they don’t get international attention.
Tip: Take some time here on the way north if you’re going to Chachapoyas.
Huancayo
Huancayo is a sprawling city with a strong Andean identity. It’s surrounded by artesian villages, each of which has its own specialty, from silver jewelry to gourd carvings. A day hike to snowcapped Huaytapallana and mountain bike rides to the central jungle (Oxapampa) are excellent outdoor choices.
Tip: Huancayo is in the center of Peru, so take a bus from Lima, Oxapampa or Yauyos to easily add it to your trip!
Matucana
As you head eastward from Lima, Matucana marks the end of the dry desert foothills and the beginning of the Andean Sierra. It’s a charming town with a few solid hikes that always lead you to lakes or a waterfall. Your visit can be a long day trip or a nice 2-3 day break from Lima or even Huancayo.
Tip: It’s easy to find a bus, colectivo (shared taxi) or private taxi from Lima to Chosica. From there buses and colectivos leave for Matucana on a regular basis.
Oxapampa
“Oxa” is a popular vacation spot among Peruvians, but it’s still a secret to foreigners. The town is cradled in a verdant valley of the High Jungle, making the weather warm but not sweltering. Bavarian architecture and German breweries will make you second-guess what country you’re in!
Tip: Stay at an all-inclusive lodge just outside of town. Ulcumano has stunning scenery, great food and a menu of outdoor activities.
Yauyos
We saved the last one for those who REALLY want to rough it- in exchange for truly fantastic views and experiences! The Reserva Paisajistica Nor-Yauyos Cochas is both a mouthful and a literal Landscape Reserve. In other words, it’s being preserved because the land is considered to be so majestic (which says a lot in a country full of natural beauty). The story Ashincuy is from here, too.
Tip: You can visit from Lima, but it’s much safer to go via Huancayo. You’ll take a colectivo for the 3-4 hour trip.
The 5 Most Bomb-Ass Hikes in Peru
No doubt, Peru is a trekker’s dream come true. Every Andean town seems to have its own secret, ancient site with beautiful trails to explore. The vastness and beauty of the Andes mountains, the diverse ancient cultures being preserved in the towns along the trails, and world-class archaeological sites are enough to mesmerize and fascinate the most well-travelled hiker.
So no matter where you go, chances are you’re close to an amazing hike. This plethora of options is exciting, but if you need help narrowing down your choices, here are my top 5 hikes for Peru:
El Misti: This one is here because it’s a relatively easy one-nighter (and barely that). Summit a 19,101-foot tall volcano (don’t worry, it’s dormant) for vistas of the Arequipa landscape. Then skip or slide your way down the ash on the other side of the mountain, taking mere hours to undo the day-and-a-half climb you took. Trust me, it’s a hoot.
Huayhuash: Depending on the year and who’s doing the ranking, this hike on the “other side” of Huaraz is often ranked the world’s best.
Inca Trail: It’s the most popular hike in Peru for a reason! Summit mind-bogglingly tall peaks, explore Incan sites that escaped the destructive Spanish, and sleep under a sky with no light pollution on your way to Machu Picchu. We have all the info you need here.
Salkantay: Somehow Salkantay figures out how to be the Inca Trail’s even wilder brother. Check this one out for a more nature-based hike, which also ends at Machu Picchu.
Santa Cruz: This 4-day hike outside Huaraz has been known by the trekking community but not the “regular” tourist crowd for some time now. It’s a 3-4 day hike through the Cordillera Blanca, a mountain range for which superlatives wouldn’t do justice– you just have to experience it! Clever Hiker has a good guide, although it’s a bit dated.
The Best (Non-Hiking) Outdoor Activities
Canopy walks @ night!
Of course, hiking isn’t all there is to do for outdoor activities in Peru. Here’s a few examples of what else you’ll find in the country:
Canopy Walks: In the jungle, many lodges have hanging bridges that bring you right to the forest canopy. Totally worth a try, especially at night when the animals come out.
Paraglide: Especially in Miraflores in Lima. You go accompanied by a pilot, and you can often sign up the day of. Just walk up to the paragliders on the malecon; you can’t miss them.
Surfing: With some of the longest breaks in the world, Peru has excellent surfing spots. Lima and Mancora are the most popular for rentals and lessons, but there are dozens of chill surf towns along the coast.
Wildlife Viewing: Especially in the Amazon. Tours to the Macaw clay licks or Sandoval Lake in the Manu/Tambopata region are a good bet. So is the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve near Iquitos– they have PINK dolphins!
Zipline: The Cusco region and parts of the jungle have some exceptional ziplines over stunning scenery. The “Inca Jungle” hike to Machu Picchu and Ulcumano Ecolodge are good options to check out.
Is it Safe to Travel to Peru?
First and foremost, it’s always best to check with your country’s embassy in Lima for updated safety information.
The political tension and violence that resulted from protests have dropped considerably since early 2023. That means for travelers, Peru is pretty much as safe as it’s ever been (especially in areas that now depend on influxes of visitors such as Cusco and Lima).
You still want to be smart when you travel to Peru. Pickpocketing is the most common problem, and be especially careful with your passport. Keep valuables in a safe in hotel rooms when possible. Use your common sense, too; going down a dark street late at night isn’t a good idea anywhere.
Transportation
With the dangers of nighttime highway driving, narrow cliffside passes, and panic-inducing taxis, this deserves an article on its own. Which is why we wrote one.
Books to Read Before You Travel to Peru
Before you go, read up on Peru’s history and culture in order to have a fuller experience. My top recommendations are Last Days of the Incas by Kim MacQuarrie and Turn Right at Machu Picchu by Mark Adams.
We have a full list of recommended books for Peru here.
Travel to Peru: Conclusion
Peru is a top destination in multiple travel categories. It’s chock-full of culture and provides a range of outdoor activities, from the adrenaline to the awe-inducing. And much like other South American countries, it’s not terribly expensive to have a trip of a lifetime here.
The most difficult part of creating your itinerary to travel to Peru is picking where to go once in country. Long bus rides and expensive flights can make it unfeasible to visit each major region in one trip.
At the very least, it’s best to decide which part of Peru you’d like to prioritize. Which is why we’ve created sample itineraries focusing on three regions of the country:
Southern Peru offers the big-name options: Machu Picchu, Inca Trail, and the Amazon jungle, for example. Check out our Peru Bucket List itinerary to decide how you’d like to visit this part of the country.
Northern Peru is growing in popularity, especially for backpackers and surfers. This includes the jungle metropolis of Iquitos, beautiful Pacific beaches, and the Chachapoyas region. Our Northern Peru Sample Itinerary has all you need to get started.
Central Peru, unfairly overlooked in my opinion, is ideal for a more off-the-beaten-path adventure. The Bavarian jungle town of Oxapampa is here, as are the hiker’s dream (Huaraz) and the inscrutable Huancayo. You’ll wonder how this region receives so few visitors, and won’t be surprised if it doesn’t stay that way.
Now here’s one final tip: Peru is a truly fascinating place, and the more I visit, the longer my list of things to do there grows. Try not to be overwhelmed by the many choices of places to go, things to do, and foods to eat. Just enjoy the moment.
Let us know in the comments or by emailing GringoInca@gmail.com for any tips or specific questions on Peru. Thanks for reading!
We would have been stuck like flies in honey without the 4-wheeled drive transportation to Ulcumano Ecolodge. Bumpy, curvy, muddy- the offshoot road from Oxapampa had all the nausea-inducing necessities. Surrounding the single lane were countless trees that reached 60+ feet in height. Their narrowness suggested this land was converted to forest about a generation ago, and this was further suggested by small plots still dedicated to cattle and small agriculture.
The half hour took us to a cooler climate, and I put a longsleeved shirt on while observing the ecolodge’s entrance. A group of birders were walking on a trail. They had rain jackets, bucket hats, long pants and heavy-looking binoculars. They were speaking Spanish, likely Limenos given their accent. The men had salt-and-pepper stubble or short white beards. As a group they headed to a canopy walk, where they would gaze intently over bromelaids the height of buildings.
To the Cabins!
A tall, thin man meets us after we disembark. His name is Eduardo, and he is the owner of the ecolodge. Eduardo has a narrow face, short dark beard, and a quick diction. I notice sometimes he twitches, possibly from overthinking, as he explains everything to us on the walk to our lodging.
There are six wooden cabins with balconies, each separated from the rest by forest. A seventh is Eduardo’s family’s home. The cabins use solar power, and Eduardo tells us how to use the lights and shower. We take a turn off the main path, on stepstones that lead to our lodging. I hear what sounds like a mechanical “BEEP!”. Eduardo says it’s the white-eared solitaire, also known as the Telephone Bird for its unique song.
It’s the only telephone ring we will hear in our cabin. That’s because there is no internet or phone signal. The cabin is large, with two beds and several tall windows with white curtains. It smells of wood. The balcony dominates the building. It is on stilts, in order to better view over the trees and into the green montane forests that appear to breathe fluffy clouds into existence, like vapor over a body of water on a humid July morning back home. The clouds roll over the landscape. There is no sign of human activity anywhere.
Before he leaves the cabin I ask Eduardo if we should use insect repellant when outside. He pauses, then looks at us and says, “So many chemicals. Well, it is not my skin.” Then he shrugs and leaves.
Sia Cave
We had barely unpacked our bags when a knock is at the door. Eduardo invites us on a hike to a cave, a trek of about 2-3 hours. He has on his rainjacket. The rhythm of raindrops hitting its orange hood is steady. I do a quick look-around, and there is no sun piercing the foggy grey sky of Ulcumano. We agree to meet with the group at the ecolodge’s entrance in 15 minutes. Then Janina and I change into our rain gear, and we fill up our water bottles.
The trail cuts through Ulcumano’s 102 hectares to a little-visited cave called Cueva Sia. White and brown trees, much like the ones that greeted us, leer over and around us like palm-fingered oglers. Lichens cover their branches and the muddy path smells of fresh, wet leaves. Jurassic plants of up to 40 feet in height neighbor the path too. Because of the rain, it’s not very warm, but it’s not cold, either.
At one point we stop after Eduardo thinks he hears an animal munching up in the canopy. We gaze up, fat raindrops occasionally splashing our faces. We never spot the possible mammal or hear the munching again. But we do hear our invisible friend, the Telephone Bird.
The last section is muddier, steep, and downhill. We babystep to the cave’s entrance and can’t go far inside because the rocky floor is slippery due to a waterfall. We take some photos that don’t come out because of the lighting, eat a snack, and talk a bit before returning.
The hike to the cave took us over an hour, but the energized walk back, motivated by the prospect of a warm, dry lunch, only took 50 minutes.
Lunch!
The hike tired us out, and all one hears in the large cafeteria is the light clinking of plates, silverware and glasses on our wooden table as we chow down on homemade chaufa.
“Hijito!” Eduardo shouts as his wife enters the room with a small baby in her arms. Eduardo’s shoulders relax, and our twitchy guide is transformed into a smiling father, contently beaming with happiness.
Upon seeing Eduardo with his family, we decide to call our 2-year-old son. He’s with his grandparents back in the USA. But the wifi signal isn’t strong enough to make a connection, and the call fails.
The Telephone Bird blares out a few beeps as we leave the cafeteria.
The Night Walk
We spend most of the afternoon resting in the cabin and washing up. The group has decided to do the moonlit canopy walk after dinner. Dusk is slightly chilly, and the sun adds pink streaks to the orange and red hues streaking over the verdant hills. It fees like autumn back home.
Ulcumano’s canopy walk is a series of six cable bridges that are connected by 40-foot-tall platforms. We have on long sleeves and pants, and the moon provides enough light now that the clouds have finally departed. Upon reaching the top of the first metal platform we hook onto cables with carabiner clips. There are two cables, one on each side, and we’re clipped onto both.
We go single file onto the first bridge. I’m the last to go, right behind Janina, who pauses and stares at the cable.
“No worries, just one of these cables can hold an elephant!” our friend Matt encourages her as he glances behind from the bridge. Matt would know something like that. Janina steps onto the bridge, which feels almost as sturdy as the platform.
The moonlight beams onto the forest canopy, a mix of trees and fabulously tall ferns. It smells of fresh vegetation with a clean, crisp air. We flash our lights onto branches and treetops, but large mammals usually avoid those spots during full moons. And tonight they certainly are.
There are plenty of pauses in the conversations as we vainly search for monkeys, spectacled bears, and other animals. It’s tough to picture the Ulcumano of 18 years ago, when cattle grazed throughout the area. The first Ulcumano tree was planted after Eduardo bought the land. The lonely pioneer now has 1000s of siblings, each with its branches spiraling out like fan blades with small needles on the edges.
The Dream
Nature recovers faster than humans expect. The canopy walk is barely at the height of the forest’s top layer now; several years ago it was above everything. Top predators like falcons and bears have moved in, showing the ecosystem is strong again.
Maybe Eduardo is living The Dream. His family lives off the land which they’ve helped recover. But there is a cost. Their son stays with family during the week in order to go to school. And a degree of loneliness must be a part of everyday life. May it’s The Dream, maybe not. But if it is, I’m glad to be a part of it.
Despite not spotting one on the canopy walk, we DID see monkeys on this trip! This one ate the avocados of the tree next to our bungalow in Oxapampa. It threw leaves at me as I took photos.
Surfing will teach you lessons you may have forgotten. Like how to appreciate nature and to try something new. And definitely patience. Patience with yourself as you learn, and also with your surroundings as you wait for the right conditions to ride that one wave. In Portugal you can learn to surf in Ericeira, the only European spot to earn the Surf Reserve designation.
We chose Ericeira because I always search for surfing spots when traveling. And after researching beaches near Lisbon, Ericeira seemed a bit less touristy and developed than nearby spots like Cascais.
Read on to find out how you can visit and surf in Ericeira.
(Note: This is an article on my favorite thing to to in Ericeira. Read our complete guide to visiting the townhere.)
Surf in Ericeira- How I Did It
Getting There
Getting to Ericeira was remarkably easy. From Sintra you can take a private car or bus. The bus is unsurprisingly cheaper (EUR 4.50) and only takes 45 minutes. The company Malfrense provides regular service from both Sintra and Lisbon.
We actually booked our hotel ahead of time. We chose a small local chain, Vila Ana Margarida. And we could not have done better. Vila Ana has an original aesthetic that speaks to Ericeira’s history as a fishing town, plus excellent food and a helpful staff.
Not to mention high water pressure, which I really appreciated during my hot shower after surfing in the cold Atlantic!
The Experience
It was just as easy to find a surf class as it was to arrive. One morning I simply strolled down the street and signed up for the next day’s beginner class. There are several surf schools where you can do this.
We all met the following morning at 8. Then we walked for about 10 minutes across the town plaza to a parking lot adjacent to one of the beaches. Every day instructors choose a different beach, using class size, experience level, and ocean conditions as criteria.
We put the wetsuits on and walked down to the shore, where a 15-minute lesson on surf technique, terminology and etiquette was given. Then we grabbed our boards and went in!
I hadn’t expected the water to be so cold, despite my mid-Atlantic roots. And the waves were a bit choppy. But I got in a couple decent rides and overall had a good time.
Cost
The group lesson I took cost EUR 40 per person. The whole experience was 2 hours long.
Surfing schools offer private lessons for EUR 100 plus camps and surf schools at varying costs (depending on length and number of participants).
Tips Before You Go
You don’t need any experiencein surfing to ride a wave! It was fairly easy, and your instructor will help. Everyone in my group got in at least one wave.
Take a private lesson for more time on the waves and to learn faster.
The water was chilly. Def have a warm shower available!
The water was rather rough for a beginner class. At risk of sounding obvious, make sure you are comfortable swimming in the ocean before taking a surf lesson.
Embrace surf culture and take a few days to explore and find your perfect wave. Although you CAN take a day trip from Lisbon for this experience, I recommend spending some time in Ericeira. It’s a cool, pretty town, and just jetting in to catch a quick wave cheapens the experience.
Conclusion
There is a modern problem with the commodification of everything related to surfing- from the clothes to the literal making of waves.
Conversely, there is something romantic and irreplaceable to the experience of waiting for the perfect wave, including taking time to know the people and way of life adjacent to the sea.
So stay in Ericeira for a bit, and take the time to learn surfing and the patience it involves if you’re interested.
Definitely visit Ica if you get the chance while in Peru- especially if you’re already in Southern Peru. The city has perfect Pisco, dope dunes for sandboarding, and is near awesome wildlife-viewing and cultural experiences. Ica has a unique cultural heritage and, being in a desert, offers different outdoor opportunities than the jungle and Andes. It’s a great stop for a Southern Peru trip or just as a getaway from Lima.
What to Do
The Popular Spots
Huacachina
Huacachina is the name of the game for tourism in Ica. The desert oasis has gotten too popular for some visitors in recent years. But it’s worth walking around a real oasis and sandboarding down those awesome dunes at sunset!
The dune buggy tours will take you to several dunes to sandboard down. Too many buggies and tourists have had a negative impact on Huacachina, so consider just walking up a dune instead. Work those calves, baby.
Nazca Lines
The Paracas and Nazca cultures made the enigmatic Nazca Lines between 200 BC and 700 AD. There are crazy spirals, long lines, and figures such as a hummingbird, monkey, condor, and even one called the spaceman, still etched in the sand.
We still don’t know why the lines were made, but underground waterways are possibly connected. (Aliens certainly are not.)
And contrary to popular belief, you don’t need a plane ride from Lima to see the Nazca Lines. Just take more environmentally-friendly local transport to Palpa (1.5 hours) or Nazca (2.5). Both towns have viewing towers from which many of the lines and figures can be seen.
From Nazca, you can return to Ica or go on to Cusco and Arequipa.
The Cultural Experiences
Brujas de Cachiche: The famous witches of Cachiche are a mere 10 minutes from Ica. If witchcraft ain’t your thing, at least see the mysterious 7-headed palm tree and the witch’s monument.
El Carmen District, Chincha: Check this out on the way from Lima. El Carmen is the place to witness and experience Afroperuvian food, dress, and music. Chincha is only 1.5 hours from Ica.
Ruta del Pisco: Literally, the Pisco Route. This isn’t an official, mapped out route. Just start at one of the distilleries such as El Cantador or Vista Alegre for a tour and tasting and take a mototaxi to the next one. My personal favorite Pisco maker? Tacama!
Parks and Wildlife
Islas Ballestas: Penguins? Near the equator? Yup. There are also sea lions, flamingos (!), and dolphins. Take a boat tour and consider camping at Paracas National Reserve. There are campsites near El Chaco beach. The Islas Ballestas are next to Paracas, 1 hour north of Ica.
Baby penguin!
What to Eat
On and near the coast in Peru, expect fresh fruit at low prices. Try all the juices you can find.
Seafood, including ceviche, is fresh and delicious.
Locals enjoy lots of butter beans (“pallares”), especially with beef.
For sweets, “tejas” are chocolates filled with all types of flavors and they are hard to find outside of Ica.
Where to Stay
The Upcycled Hostel in Huacachina is the best of both worlds. It’s made of 100% recycled material and comes recommended by travelers.
When to Visit Ica (Including Weather)
Ica is sunny, dry and warm year-round. But nighttime gets a little chilly. Average temperatures range from 66 F (19 C) in July to 74 F (23 C) in January.
There are even more things to do during Tourist Week in November. Nearby, Chincha has a Tourist Week in October.
How to Get There
Public buses are the most environmentally-friendly way to travel across Peru. To visit Ica take any of the major bus companies that go south of Lima.
It’s easy to add Ica to your Peru itinerary since it’s close to Lima. Definitely try slowing down your trip instead of jetting right from the capital to Cusco.
Travelers who slow it down and visit spots on the road between Lima and Cusco will have a better, even more immersive experience in this rich and beautiful country. And, of course, Ica is a GREAT option to add to any itinerary for Southern Peru.
Have you been to Ica? Do you plan on going? Let us know!
Find it all at Peru’s best overlooked trek… Huayhuash!
Blue, green, and turquoise lakes. Icy peaks, flowing rivers, and glaciers. And often not a human in sight. This is your experience if you hike the globally-recognized Huayhuash.
What is Huayhuash?
Huayhuash is a private conservation area managed by local communities. It’s recognized as one of the best hikes in the world. And with only 5-7,000 visitors a year, it’s much less crowded than the Inca Trail (which sees 500 people a day!).
Huayhuash is already well-known in trekking circles, and mountain biking is available now, too.
I think the best part of Huayhuash is that you can create your own adventure. Itineraries vary from three to eighteen days. They are generally moderate to moderately strenuous, so you don’t have to be an expert mountaineer to enjoy Huayhaush.
The crazy thing is, the Huayhuash mountain chain is only 30km (19 miles) long. Yet it includes 3 departments in Peru, campsites at 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level, hot springs, turquoise lakes, glaciers, and the country’s second tallest mountain.
Why Hike Huayhuash?
Unlike most hikes in the Andes, this landscape here is more open. Because of that you’ll get amazing views of the mountain chain as you walk and rest at campsites. That’s also why Huayhuash is considered one of the world’s best hikes. Highlights include the three lakes, all different colors, and Peru’s second tallest mountain, Yerupaja. Yerupaja is 6,635 meters (21,800 feet) tall.
The movie Touching the Void (based on a true story) takes place in Huayhuash, too. You’ll get up close with the mountain that Joe Simpson and Simon Yates scaled, Siula Grande.
Plus if you hike Huayhuash you’ll directly contribute to local communities who manage the campsites. And you’ll see cool wildlife like llamas, alpacas, viscachas, Andean foxes, and condors.
Last but not least, this hike is more affordable than its more famous competition in Southern Peru.
But Huayhuash is just as good… perhaps better.
Itineraries in Huayhuash
Again, Huayhaush really is a create-your-own-adventure, which is unique for a hike that’s so highly regarded. There are options for all types of budgets and expectations.
To do the WHOLE hike, there are 15-18 day itineraries. But more visitors take a 9-10 day option or the “mini” 7-day hike. Each of these includes the main attractions of the full 18-day hike. Finally, consider a 3-day hike if you’re short on time, funds, or aren’t sure about a longer trek.
Almost all of these start in Llamac in Ancash department and include the view of three lakes. Campsites are usually at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level.
Most Common Itineraries for Huayhuash
3 days: 15-20 km (9-12 miles). You’ll see a few of the major spots, all in the department of Ancash.
7 days: This is the “mini” version and is considered the minimum amount of time to see most of Huayhuash, and it changes depending on visitor preference.
10 days: Generally 110-115 km (about 70 miles); check out the sample itinerary below for more details!
15-18 days: This is the full Huayhuash hike and the only way to see everything.
NOTE: All of these include one or two passes at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) a day and start in the village of Llamac in Ancash
Alternative Hiking Options for Huayhuash
Some hikes start in the thermal baths in the department of Lima and include the Raura mountain range, which is adjacent to Huayhuash. A few tour companies offer archaeology-based hikes, and several center on mountain climbing.
9-Day Example Itinerary
The most common itinerary for Huayhuash is 9-11 days. That’s because you see all the “big” attractions and aren’t going to be rushed. This is a moderately strenuous trek which includes several 8-9 hour long hikes.
Day 1
You start off in Huaraz (Ancash’s hiking capital and 8 hours from Lima). From there it’s a 2 hour ride to Chiquian, and from there 1 more hour to Llamac.
Llamac is where trek begins.
From Llamac it’s a forty minute walk to Pocpa, and a further 1.5 hours to the campsite. Another option is to continue hiking uphill to Cuartelhuain for the night.
Day 2
Start getting used to early mornings! At 7 am start the 2 hr uphill walk to Cacananpunta Pass, located at 4,750 meters or 15,580 feet above sea level. By lunchtime the hiking gets easier and you camp at Mitucocha.
Mitucocha is next to a river and you’ll chill with views of snowcapped mountains from the green valley.
Campsite at Mitucocha.
Day 3
This is another 5 hour day of hiking. Today the tallest point is Yanapunta Pass, at 4,650 meters, or 15,260 feet. If you haven’t started, consider coca tea for the altitude.
You end up at Carhuacocha lake to camp for the night.
Yanapunta Pass. You get an idea of how massive the landscape is by the people in the middle.
Day 4
It’s the first big day! That’s because you’ll walk for 8 hours, see the 3 lakes, and go over Siula Pass, next to the infamous Siula Grande.
Siula Pass is the tallest pass of the hike so far at 4,785 meters (15,700 feet). From there you’ll get an awesome view of the three lakes and mountain range behind them.
Afterwards it’s all downhill to the Huayhuash campsite.
Suila Pass.
Day 5
This is a day of hiking for 5 hours to Viconga, where you can soak in hot springs. In case it’s not obvious, NEVER pass up a chance to soak in hot springs during a long, cold hike!
You’ll also go over Portachuelo Pass, which is about the same height as Siula, and end up at an altitude of 4,350 meters (17,560 feet) to camp for the night.
Viconga Campsite at night.
Day 6
By now you might be used to getting up at 7am and walking for hours. Which is exactly what you’ll do today. The total hiking time today is about 8 hours.
You’ll summit Cuyoc Pass at 5,000 meters (16,400 feet). From there you’ll view the whole Huayllapa valley and head on down to the campsite. If you have energy go to the Antonio lookout. From there you can view the entire mountain chain.
Day 7
For three hours you’ll walk to the town of Huayllapa, the first place you can buy limited food and supplies.
Rest up, make some phone calls, or just chill in town, because afterwards it’s 4-5 hours of slogging uphill to the campsite at 4,235 meters (13,900 feet).
Day 8
This is the longest day. You’ll hike for roughly 9 hours and go over two passes that are over 4,700 meters (15,400 feet) high. At the second pass, you’ll have lunch and enjoy one last great view of Huayhuash.
Yaucha Pass
Day 9
Today’s short and 80% of the walk is downhill. You’ll finish at the town of Pacllon. From Pacllon take a bus back to Chiquian and then Huaraz.
Campsite on the last night of the Huayhuash hike
Afterwards, rest up, eat, and bask in the knowledge that you did the most awesome hike ever.
Start thinking of how to brag to those people who could’ve come but didn’t :)
How to Prepare
How to Prepare Physically to Hike Huayhuash
Since Huayhuash is a multiday trek and the passes you’ll cross are incredibly high, it’s important to be in good hiking shape and to acclimatize to the altitude.
You can acclimatize in the city of Huaraz and take day hikes from there. First I’d take it easy in Huaraz for a couple of days since the city itself sits at 3,000 meters or 10,000 feet. Before arriving, make sure you’re in good shape and able to take on a long, sometimes strenuous hike. Practice makes perfect, so get in plenty of hiking back home beforehand.
Day Hikes from Huaraz
Huascaran National Park. Photo by Alex Azabache on Pexels.com
The best hikes from Huaraz include:
Churup: a glacial lake and a hike that is 6 km (almost 4 miles) total. It’s 3 km up, then 3 km downhill.
Huascaran National Park: You can hike for hours among snowpeaks, crystalline lakes, and the famous quenual tree forest in this beautiful park.
Lake 69: Just like Churup, this is a completely uphill climb to a glacial lake. But the trek for Lake 69 is twice as long at 12 km (7.5 miles).
Paron: This lake is the largest in the Cordillera Blanca mountain chain and generally less visited than Lake 69 and Churup. The hike is 20 km (12 1/5 miles) and you may want to spend the night in nearby Caraz to get an early start.
Pastoruri: Pastoruri may be the easiest glacier to visit ever! You’ll spend a few hours on a bus to take the hike, which lasts about an hour.
Rajucolta: A 7-km (4.3 miles) hike to a beautiful glacial lake
Wilcacocha: 7.6 km or 4.7 miles is all you need to find yet another amazing glacial lake near Huaraz!
Huaraz is a cool town with lots of backpackers and hikers. So it’s easy to find a guide, information on how to arrive to trails, and hiking buddies.
Always stay well-hydrated at these altitudes. Avoid alcohol and caffeine initially, and consider an over-the-counter medicine to avoid altitude sickness.
Finally if you want to try a shorter multi-day hike to prepare for Huayhuash I recommend Santa Cruz, yet another hike recognized as one of the best in the world!
Whether you think you can or can’t, you’re probably right (Henry Ford).
Remember it’s tents outside every night when you hike Huayhuash. There are no showers and toilets are waterless. So, it’s, ahem, rustic.
If you’ve prepped enough physically, you’ll know. And just knowing may be enough. Of course, who you go with is crucial. When the air is thin, the weather cold, and my legs tired, I always want the most positive people around me.
Finally, just enjoy the hike. It’s not a race, and instead of rushing through and tiring out on Day 4, take your time and set a good pace.
How to Book Huayhuash
Responsible Tourism Professionals
Our friends, Hombres y Montañas (Men and Mountains) have worked in Huayhuash for generations. They are a family company and are professionals in responsible tourism.
Connect with them on Facebook to find out more and make a reservation.
Best time of the Year to Hike Huayhuash
May to September is the best time to hike Huayhuash because the rainy season has ended by about mid-May. The best time to go is late May and June. The vegetation will still be green and it doesn’t get as cold at night as in July or August, which are also the most popular months for trekking in the area.
Avoid traveling in the rainy season from November-April, when landslides are common and accommodations can be hard to find.
Where to Stay & Eat in Huaraz
The backpacker classic in Huaraz is Churup.
Cafe Andino and California Cafe are spots to check out for relaxing with a good book and coffee or coca tea.
There are lots of options for Peruvian food and nightlife, with 13 Buhos perhaps the best spot to grab a drink.
What to bring
The Essentials
Obviously, trekking equipment (and climbing gear if that’s your thing). For a hike similar to the one above, you should have this equipment at a minimum:
Backpack with water cover
Rain poncho, especially if it’s not June-September
Rainproof tent
Sleeping bag
Waterproof hiking shoes or boots
2 pairs of hiking pants
A couple of short sleeved shirts (the weather can get surprisingly warm)
2 long sleeved shirts
1 set of pajamas
A bathing suit for Viconga and its hot springs
Down jacket
Sandals to let your feet breathe when not hiking
Sunglasses
Quick dry travel towel
Head lamp
Toiletries, including sunscreen and hand sanitizer
Medicine kit
Straw filter or similar products
Travel medical isurance
Snacks! Coca leaves are great for altitude too
A GPS if going alone
Nice-To-Haves
You may want to consider these, depending on your preference and how much you want to bring.
Solar charger for smartphone
Extra camera batteries
Trekking poles
Sleeping pad
Thermos
Emergency oxygen
TIPS: It’s common to rent equipment in Huaraz, or to even buy used equipment. Most agencies provide some or most of the equipment written above.
Weather
Huayhuash in the morning. Photo by David Torres on Unsplash
The temperature goes down to 0-2 C (32-36 F) at night and is coldest in July. But it goes up to 20C (68F), even at high altitudes, at daytime.
Expect lighter rainstorms in May and Oct. From June through September, known as “Andean summer”, you can get clear blue skies all day, every day.
Huaraz gets up to 20C (68F) during the day and will go down to 5-6C (40’s F) at night.
How to Get There
Buses leave regularly from Lima to Huaraz all day. The trip takes 8 hours. Huaraz has an airport but flights are not always regular.
From the north, buses from Trujillo and Chiclayo go to Huaraz, too.
Cost
The cost of hiking Huayhuash is going to depend on a lot of factors, especially number of days and what’s included. Depending on price, agencies may provide 3 square meals a day, a tent, sleeping bag, a team to carry supplies, cooks, entrance to the communities’ campsites, and transportation.
Having said that huge caveat, you can expect to more or less pay these amounts for Huayhuash:
3-day tour: $300
9-11 days: $500-650
15-18 days: Up to $1,400
Personalized 152km (95 mile) hike: $4,000
If going alone, make sure you pay each community for using the trail and campsites. Remember that only ONE community (Huayllapa) has shops, so you’re not restocking daily.
And expect to pay in cash.
These communities provide the following campsites:
Huayllapa: Viconga, Guanacpatayand Huatiaq
Llámac: Cuartewain and Jahuacocha
Pacllon: Qashpapampa and Jahuacocha
Pocpa: Pocpa
Queropalca: Mitucocha and Carhuacocha
Quisuarcancha: Carhuacocha
Siula Grande: Base camp
Tupac Amaru: Huayhuash
Uramaza: Viconga lake and hot springs :)
Conclusion
Huayhuash is among the best hikes in the world, and it’s way less crowded than Peru’s most famous hike, the Inca Trail.
Definitely consider it if adventure is in your blood. Just make sure to acclimatize to the altitude and to prepare your body first.
Again, the mountain chain’s preservation depends on local communities, so be sure to leave no trace and respect the people and wildlife. To get the most out of your trip and hike Huayhuash, check out our partners at Hombres y Montañas Huayhuash (Facebook). These guys are responsible tourism professionals who focus on adventure tourism in Ancash.
Unless otherwise noted,all photos by our friend Erick Bernabe from Hombres y Montañas. Muchas gracias, Erick!!
Oxapampa might have the best Peruvian coffee, but like the town itself, the dark roast is used to being overlooked. This region has always been a country apart. German settlers first established the town of Pozuzo in 1851, and architecture resembles 19th-century Prussia.
The pioneers became cattle ranchers and coffee farmers. For this reason you’ll spot Oxapampinos in cowboy hats and leather boots, another way the region sets itself apart. For a while, the mother country was more tightly tied to Oxapampa than was Peru. To Spanish descendents in Lima, Oxapampa was just another part of the interior, another backwater rural province.
But now Oxapampa is en vogue. The cool kids know all about the annual music festival selvamanos, and the perfect weather attracts Peruvians from all over. The history of the area is an attraction, too. There are stories of tourists arriving in “Oxa” and asking for the gringos; they come to see the white people with blue eyes and blonde hair, farming in the middle of the country.
We were going to see Janina’s family for the first time since our marriage. It was going to include a ceremony to renew our vows, a second wedding since they did not make it to the one in the USA. I was excited to meet my in-laws. But I was just as excited to go back to the Central Jungle.
The Wild West of Peru
Arriving To Oxa
Peruvians hate open windows. Our 10-hr bus ride came with a bonus hour of traffic and bickering over whether we could open one window after leaving Lima. We lost the argument and steamed like potatoes in the stale air on the overnight route.
So it was just another bus ride in Peru.
Fortunately Oxapampa has epic breakfasts. Fresh milk, tamales, cecina bacon, bread, cocona jelly, and local coffee awaited us. We ate in jeans and t-shirts inside an open-air cafeteria built from logs. Maybe it was the dry heat and wooden buildings, but “Oxa” felt like the Wild West at that moment. Clouds rolled over green hills, lazily brushed away by the morning heat.
Consuming Our Way Through The Central Jungle
It was a day of food. Janina’s grandmother prepared a traditional Pachamanca for lunch. Pachamanca is slow-cooked meat, potatoes, and tamal with Peruvian spices. The specific ingredients change according to the landscape. In Oxapampa they use pork.
And nothing beats slow-cooked pork.
Then the family showed me their homes. Years ago the gigantic estate was divided up equally among siblings. Each owns an entire transect, from the road to the top of the hill. The Hassingers were original settlers in Oxapampa. Today their descendents still harvest the fruit and coffee plants that flourish in the tropics, and most have pigs or chickens, too.
Afterwards we had a few free days. The first thing I wanted to try was the sauna. Now, rural Peru is not known for saunas. But Janina’s cousin mentioned a “sauna rustica” that only cost S/ 5, and I was hooked. That’s UNDER 2 DOLLARS.
She said it was 10 minutes away by foot. So on a whim I forced along my mother and Janina’s family to a small farm across the bridge under a slightly sweltering sun. Naturally the walk was 30 minutes long.
Upon arrival, we realized “rustica” was not an exaggeration. It was a sauna in the loosest sense of the word. Really, it was a man-sized adobe box with a hole to stick out one’s head. Steam flowed through a tube into the structure. On the other side of the tube was a pot full of herbs and water, sitting over an open fire.
I opened the tiny door, stood up, and poked my head out. Steam started to flow into the sauna. It was a bit warm, and the smoke from the fire made it uncomfortable to breathe.
“Rustica”
Nobody else volunteered after Janina and me. But we were the most exfoliated people at the church that evening.
Janina loving the sauna rústica!
The ceremony was short and sweet. The priest found it funny that we were renewing our vows after one year of marriage. Since he didn’t know us, that was pretty much all he talked about.
The last morning of the trip involved a cave, a cheese factory, and a distillery. Thankfully, the last two had free samples. Sugar cane liquor was too good to pass up, and we shared a half liter after the freebies finished. A nun, who came with a busload of chaotic children, was in front of us in line. Their chaperone, apparently.
“I’ll take a double,” she told the bartender.
Sugar cane liquor, enjoyed in Sepia tint
Preparing The Best Peruvian Coffee
After lunch, held at the abuelita’s, we prepared coffee. Janina and her aunt showed me the process. First, you pick the berries when they are ripe. Then, you process the berries through a machine that turns them into pulp and spits out the white seeds, which are the actual coffee beans. The pulp is sweet and people make jelly with it. After the seeds dry on a tin roof for some days, you roast them over fire and finish the job with a manual coffee grinder.
This machine spits the seeds out of the coffee berries
We were slowly lumbering because of the lunch and liquor. But the earthy roast of our final product jump started everyone. It was the best Peruvian coffee I’ve had.
Certainly there is no fresher coffee experience. And there was no need to go to the store for a filter, much less cream and sugar. One provides for themselves in this part of the interior. Janina’s family gave us a 10lb bag of coffee beans. I didn’t know at the time that this bag would begin my coffee obsession.
Us with Abuelita
The Struggle to Smuggle
I wanted that 10 pounds of coffee. It was the best Peruvian coffee I had tried. But I wasn’t convinced that a giant unmarked plastic bag filled with an agricultural product would pass through US customs.
So I got creative. First, I went to a cafe in Lima and asked for empty coffee bags, which would seem more legit to a customs agent. But the barista wanted to charge more than the coffee itself would have cost. Once again, the precio gringo was screwing me over.
Then I tried to find a marker and a non-transparent bag, thinking if I wrote “cafe” on the side, it would be better. But that seemed sketchier than just carrying the unmarked, see-through bag.
Soon enough I ran out of time and stuffed the giant bag into my duffel before hailing a taxi to the airport. The coffee was on my mind the entire flight to Miami. When I arrived, I was directed to a customs official since I indicated that I had an agricultural product.
“And what are you bringing from Peru?”
“Coffee”
The agent waved me by with the same expression that horses have when they wave flies away with their tails. Of course, Janina’s family never worried about the coffee not getting through customs. In Peru’s Wild West, one goes by their own rules.
Delicious German beer
Restaurants offer German inspired dishes in Oxapampa
Cool carriage outside our hotel room
Log cabin in Oxapampa
Conclusion
The view from our hotel room’s porch!
Oxapampa is one of my favorite places of all time. The weather, food, and experiences are incredibly unique and awesome.
If you’re interested in visiting Oxapampa and the Central Jungle, check out my Central Peru Adventure Guide. Or this off-the-beaten-path Peru itinerary, which includes the Central Jungle.
And if you’re too excited to wait to try the best Peruvian coffee, your best bet is organic coffee from nearby Chanchamayo. You can find this online or a local supermarket.
Leave a comment below if you love coffee or want to visit Oxapampa :)
Something about visiting Peru wakes up the underlying lust for life that too many people ignore in their day-to-day lives. This country has a fascinatingly vibrant, unique culture and provides truly world-class outdoor adventures; dull moments are rarer than a banana hammock at an American beach. So I wrote this Peru itinerary (10+ days) as a start for planning a trip to this amazing country.
Southern Peru is the region with the most famous sights: Machu Picchu, Cusco, and Lake Titicaca just to name a few. But that means there are a ton of options for hotels, tours, and experiences, whichcan be overwhelming.
But after years of living and traveling in Peru, I’ve done the trips and research to give my best recommendations for visitors. I like this itinerary because it fits so much into only 10 days, and there are options for travelers who have more time. And this itinerary saves money by taking the bus to destinations instead of flying.
Anywho, check this out if you’re thinking of going to Peru.
Peru Itinerary: The Best 10 Days In South America?!
Days 1 & 2: Before Llamas, Lima
Pretty much any trip to Peru starts in Lima. Try the world-class gastronomy, learn more about Peru in the country’s best museums, and do a surfing lesson.
Some visitors unfairly ignore Lima. It can seem like a sprawling, chaotic city. And it’s covered depressing grey clouds most of the year. But it’s an excellent jumping-off point for lovers of food, adventure, and history.
Where to Stay
More important than the actual hotel, is the neighborhood. Stay in the seaside areas of Miraflores and Barranco, which cater more to tourists are are safer than, say, Lima Centro.
Check out Kaminu Backpackers in artsy Barranco. Kaminu follow sustainable water practices. This is even more important in Lima, the world’s 2nd largest desert city! Kaminu also has a bbq area and bike rentals. Meanwhile, I like Casa Andina in Miraflores for a more traditional hotel experience.
Top Experiences in LIma
Surfing the Costa Verde
Renting a bike on the boardwalk (malecon) in Miraflores
Parasailing over the ocean at Miraflores
Visiting the creepy catacombs at San Francisco Cathedral
Get your history on at Museo Larco (including the notorious sala erotica)
Eating the local fruits and dishes at Mercado Surquillo in Miraflores
Ceviche…. Always ceviche.
Inside the Museo Larco Herrera
The “box” is the traditional cajón and is popular in the coast of Peru. We got a private concert walking around Barranco.
Hop on a bus (I recommend Cruz del Sur) and take the 4.5 hour ride to Ica. From the bus stop, find a taxi to take you to the oasis of Huacachina . Huacachina offers pools, discotecas, and is in the middle of Pisco country.
But in the afternoon take a dune buggy and sandboarding tour instead. That’s why people really come here, anyway. For a more eco friendly option, rent a board for only S/ 10 ($3) and hike up the dunes yourself.
Where to stay
10 days isn’t a lot for visiting Peru. For this reason, you should take the 11 hour bus to Arequipa overnight. This way you’ll save time on travel (and money on lodging!).
But if you do have more time to stay in Huacachina, there are many hotels/hostels of similar quality and price, all along the water. The Upcycled Hostel is notable for its overall vibe and because it’s made of recycled materials.
top experiences in huacachina
Dune buggy + Sandboarding tour
Or… hike the dunes and sandboard down!
Nearby Pisco makers and vineyards (check out Tacama)
Chillin at your hotel pool or bar
The desert at sunset
Days 4-6: Canyons & Condors in Arequipa
Arequipa’s altitude is 7,661 feet (2,361 meters) above sea level. So take it easy for a day. Take advantage of the food scene (even other Peruvians, with their vocal gastronomic opinions, say Arequipa has amazing food).
Spend the next two days exploring the stunning treks of Colca Canyon. You’ll be able to see the famous Andean condor and soak in hot springs in addition to doing unforgettable hikes. Base yourself in the Colca town of Chivay, or in Arequipa itself.
top experiences in arequipa
Condor watching at the break of dawn in Colca Canyon
Taking the 1.5 day hike to summit the El Misti or Chachani volcanoes
Hiking the various trails of Colca Canyon
Take the mesmerizing 1-day “Ruta de Sillar”
Visit the city’s historic center (make sure to get a pie from the Santa Catalina Monastery- those nuns know baking!)
where to stay
Casa Andina’s hotel in Chivay has a planetarium on premises (the sky is amazing at night!). Every Casa Andina location has the best breakfast buffet options in Peru IMHO. The chain has a good social responsibility program, too.
If you stay here you’ll get discounts on adventure tour options. Chivay lays between the Cruz del Condor viewing spot and the hot springs of La Calera.
And the highest-rated budget option in the city is Vallecito Backpacker.
Days 7-9: Culture & Cuzco
6 hours from Arequipa is the Inca’s ancient capital of Cuzco. You can spend weeks in and around Cuzco because there is so much adventure, history and culture to explore. But since you only have a few days, I’d prioritize Sacsayhuaman, the Qoricancha temple, San Blas neighborhood, and the San Pedro market.
Make sure to get a tourist ticket (boleto turitisco), or you won’t be able to see many of the sites. The official website for the ticket is here.
Keep in mind Cuzco is even higher than Arequipa (11,521 feet above sea level, or 3,400 meters). You’ll likely need time to acclimatize. Because of this I DO NOT recommend intense day hikes such as the Rainbow Mountain.
Take the train on Day 9 to Aguas Calientes. This way you will make it to Machu Picchu first thing in the morning. Buy tickets ahead of time, including the return trip to Cusco.
top experiences in cusco
A half day hike to the archaeological wonders of Tambomachay, Puka Pukara, Q’enko and Sacsayhuaman
The Incan Sun Temple, Qoricancha
Food at the San Pedro Market
Exploring the artsy district of San Blas
Day trip to a Sacred Valley town like Pisac or Chinchero for epic hike and souvenir options
I’ve stayed at Niños hotel twice and love it both times. Niños is a “Green Leader” recognized by TripAdvisor, and also funds childcare for underserved children in Cusco. It’s walking distance to the main plaza. It’s comfy, clean, and has a wonderful restaurant with fireplace.
Cusco’s main plaza
Cusco’s streets are full of amazing stonework, all done with no mortar
Day 10: Machu Picchu!!
The #1 visited destination in Peru has earned this distinction. But that also means Machu Picchu gets very crowded. Therefore, take the earliest bus at 6AM to enjoy the Incan citadel to yourself (at least, as much as is possible).
You can buy a ticket at the bus station the day of or the day before (recommended, since the line can be long).
Make sure to have already bought your ticket to Machu Picchu, in case they run out. Include Huaynu Picchu for the ultimate adventure experience.
Finally, plan your time accordingly so you make it on the train back to Cusco from Aguas Calientes. From Cusco, go back to Lima or your next destination.
If You Have More Time..
Honestly, it’s tough to include more in a 10-day itinerary for Peru. But if you have more time, consider these options:
Try More Trails in Colca
Want to get in a few days of top-notch treks, without the loads of tourists in Cusco? Then head to Canaconde outside of Arequipa. You’ll get the best hikes of Colca Canyon. Plus you can stay at an ecolodge.
Lake Titicaca: The Largest Freshwater Lake on Earth
Take a 6.5 hr detour between Arequipa and Cusco to Lake Titicaca, which Peru shares with Bolivia. Check out the Uros floating islands and stay with a local family in an island like Taquile or Amantani.
The islands provide excellent hiking opportunities and cool archaeological sites. In Quechua legends, the first Incas were born in Lake Titicaca.
Extra Options in Cusco
There are a ton of great 1-2 trips from Cusco if you have more time. I recommend Laguna Humantay or the 7 lakes hike.
Sacred Valley
It’s no longer the insider’s secret option, but staying in the Sacred Valley is a great cultural experience. Each village is unique and deserves a day or so of exploring, at least.
Consider Pisac or Chinchero for their archaeological sites and famous traditional markets. If you’re low on time, visit the cobblestoned and fortress-surrounded Ollantaytambo, where you can hop on a train to Aguas Calientes.
Family we met in Ollantaytambo
Inca Trail (or an Alternative)
If you have 4+ extra days, definitely consider the Inca Trail or one of its alternatives. Here is my ultimate guide to the Trail and other options to help you decide what is best for you.
Alternatively, the budget option is to take a car to Santa Teresa from Cusco or Ollantaytambo. The next day, take a car to Hidroelectrica, and from there walk the 2-3 hours to Aguas Calientes.
This avoids paying for the train but adds days to your trip. You can save even more money by taking the strenuous 3 hr hike from Aguas Calientes up to Machu Picchu.
Amazon Adventure
Hop on a short flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado to visit the 275,000 ha (over 1 million square mile) Tambopata National Reserve!
Best Time to Go
Try to avoid the rainy season in Cusco and the jungle from November through April. Especially avoid the rainiest months, January and February. Of course, since the coast is a desert, this only applies to the Andes and jungle.
Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail are closed in February.
Conclusion
I hope this Peru itinerary (10+ days) answered questions you had or convinced you go finally make the trip to Peru!
If you’re ready to go then check out my tips on what to pack. After that, you’ll be ready.
Do you have questions on the locations or things to do in Southern Peru? Message me by email (GringoInca@gmail.com), or comment below!
