Note:This is a guest post by Galinka at Salkantay Trek Machu. Check out more posts and travel options on their website!
The Choquequirao trek will show you an ancient city larger than Machu Picchu, but one that remains far from most tourists’ attention. Here, visitors do not arrive on comfortable trains. Those who visit are true adventurers.
After days of exhausting hiking, brave trekkers can find the absolute silence of these mysterious ruins. Archaeologists estimate that only 40% of the city is excavated. That is why you should visit Choquequirao now, before the crowds rob you of the opportunity of an authentic encounter with the past.
The walk to the Inca citadel begins in the small town of Cachora. From there, it continues to cross the Apurimac River Canyon, eventually reaching the ruins of Choquequirao. It is a difficult circuit 3 times more demanding than the classic Inca Trail. That’s since in 1 day the hike descends by a kilometer (taking about 5 hours), and the next day involves lots of steep uphill hiking.
But the effort is worth every second thanks to the breathtaking views of the canyon. While in Machu Picchu you struggle for space with 2,500 tourists to get the best photo, Choquequirao receives about 30 people a day in high season.
This makes it the true lost city of the Incas.
Why Do the Choquequirao Trek Now?
The trek is an incredible personal challenge offering fantastic views. However, the Peruvian government has been considering building a cable car. This will transform Choquequirao into another popular, Machu Picchu-like archaeological site.
So you should enjoy the hike before it becomes too popular!
How Do I Hike the Choquequirao Trek?
There are two options:
4-day: This is considered to be the classic trek, starting and ending with transfers from/to Cusco. It measures 32 km. The trail is well maintained and easy to follow; however, its difficulty is high. Maximum altitude is 3,050 meters (10,000 feet) above sea level.
9-day Choquequirao to Machu Picchu Trek:This is longer and best for really experienced trekkers. It usually starts with a transport from Cusco. The trek totals 90 km. The maximum altitude is 4,670 meters (15,300 feet) above sea level.
Both options offer local porters who can relieve you with your load. Other porters also carry camping equipment. Another possibility is to rent a mule.
Of course, any of these help the local economy. Just please ensure your porter or mule is not overloaded, since this is an unfortunately common problem.
Entrance ticket to the archaeological site of Choquequirao is 60 Soles/person (30 Soles for students with a valid ISIC card).
The best season for hiking is from May through October.
Below you can find an itinerary for the classic 4-day route.
Classic 4-Day Hike to Choquequirao
DAY 1: CUSCO – CACHORA – ROSALINA BEACH
The trek starts with a four hour ride from Cuzco to Cachora, a small town of 3,500 inhabitants surrounded by impressive snowy peaks. This place serves for a lunch break. It is also possible to buy any last supplies. Then, participants hike for 15 minutes to get to the popular viewing spot of Capuliyoc.
Afterwards, the descent through the Apurimac River Canyon begins. This is a very steep descent and takes approximately 5 hours. There the cold wind reaches speeds that will make you stagger. However, you’ll get impressive views over the canyon on the way.
When you reach the Apurimac River, the cold wind will be replaced by warm breezes. You will see lush vegetation and hear the rhythmic sounds of the crickets all around. You keep walking through Chiquisca to get to Rosalina Beach (1,550 meters, or 5,085 feet, above sea level.), the first campsite.
DAY 2: ROSALINA BEACH –MARAMPATA – CHOQUEQUIRAO – MARAMPATA
There are llamas embedded in the stone terraces. Llamas!!
In early morning, we cross the Apurimac River by means of cable car, which slides a mere three meters (10 feet) above the water. Then, one of the most difficult sections of the trek begins. You’ll make up for Day 1’s descent, going from 1,550 meters to 3,050 meters above sea level (5,085 to 10,000 feet).
The route itself is a constant, ascending zigzag under intense heat. After approximately 3-4 hours, you will reach Marampata, a small town with only 15 families. It is really admirable to see how they manage to survive in such an isolated area. There, we have a rest.
After that, the last 40-minute climb to the archaeological site of Choquequirao begins. Once you reach it, you realize that the mythical citadel is practically just for you. That’s because there are normally only 2 groups a day. It might leave you speechless. Instead of listening to tourists and flashes, you can only hear the sounds of wind and nature. Here nothing can disturb your experience.
You will spent all the afternoon walking around various agricultural terraces, aqueducts, ceremonial squares, viewpoints, ceremonial houses and temples, separated by stairs of all sizes and inclines. If you are lucky, you can even see condors flying. When the visit is over, we return to Marampata, where we camp again.
DAY 3: MARAMPATA – CHIQUISCA
In the morning, we take the same path back to the Apurimac River. Then, we start descending for around 4-5 hours to Chiquisca, where we camp for the last night.
Today we need to climb more than 1,000 meters to reach Cachora. The climb starts very early in the morning in order to avoid the intense afternoon heat. Once in Cachora, our transport takes us back to the city of Cusco.
Completing the Choquequirao Trek will fill you with satisfaction and bring you an experience that will never be forgotten!
Conclusion
Definitely consider Choquequirao for an awesome experience away from the crowds.
Photo by Nico Vera of Pisco Trail. Piscotrail.com. IG: @piscotrail
Multiple types of local, organic meats, slow-cooked under a mountain of fresh herbs for hours. Pachamanca is an event as much as a meal. And I’d go further, saying it’s Peruvian Thanksgiving.
Otherfoodexperiences get more attention from the international crowd, but don’t miss this super delicious meal while in Peru!
So… What IS Pachamanca?
When I lived in the village on the edge of a mountain, people ate Pachamanca at harvest time. The men spent all day harvesting potatoes, alfalfa, maiz, and anything else that was planted. Meanwhile the women slow-cooked slabs of alpaca meat all day over hot rocks and under a pile of fresh herbs.
The smell was motivation enough to work hard. And that’s if you didn’t know what it tasted like.
I say it’s Peruvian Thanksgiving because of the timing and communal spirit of Pachamanca. Of course, American Thanksgiving occurs in November since the harvest season has ended. And both events involve families congregating.
Although it’s traditional to eat at harvest time, today you can find Pachamanca at restaurants any time of the year. The difference is that instead of using hot rocks, fresh herbs and soil, restaurants use a pot, slow-cooker style. It’s still really, really good.
Another cool aspect is the ingredients will change depending on the location. Places use beef, pork, chicken, lamb, alpaca, or any combination of different meats. The herbs and accompanying foods like potatoes and tamales change, too.
Which means you can eat Pachamanca in every town and city in Peru, and it will never be the same.
Conclusion
Maybe you agree Pachamanca is Peru’s best, traditional comparison to Thanksgiving. Even if you don’t, you should try it. The meal gets overshadowed by ceviche and other dishes in Peru’s famous (and crowded) gastronomy. But ask any Peruvian and they’ll tell you Pachamanca is simply amazing.
See my Adventure Guides on Southern Peru, Central Peru, and Northern Peru to visit the land of the Incas and get your fill of Pachamanca. The holiday season is a great time to plan trips!
Fun fact: This isn’t a photo of the Lima catacombs since phots aren’t allowed there! Photo by Travis Grossen on Unsplash.
When I think of creepy places in Peru, a couple of spots immediately pop up. But if you find yourself in Lima this week, the catacombs are your best bet for Halloween haunts.
There was the time I “slept” with a skull above my head. And apparently for a culturally acceptable reason. I say “slept” because I was scared out of my mind and actually didn’t get any sleep.
There is also Marcahuasi, a mesmerizing rock forest in the department of Lima. Marcahuasi is popular for camping and supposedly home to tons of UFO sightings.
But again, if you’re in Lima this Halloween, all you need to creep yourself out is to visit the Basilica & Convent of San Francisco. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a Spanish Baroque temple and has 7 cloisters with green courtyards.
However it’s most famous for its catacombs, home to the remains of up to 75,000 people.
The Basilica & Convent of San Fracisco de Lima was finished in 1674. Historically it was a convent (for the Franciscan order) and until 1808 was a tomb for members of the public.
So the skeletons (and spirits) there are from all sections of 15th-19th century Lima society.
How to Visit Lima’s Catacombs
The basilica & convent is located at San Francisco plaza in the Historic Center of Lima Centro. Nearby are the government palace and main plaza of Lima. So you can easily include a visit to the catacombs into any trip to Lima.
Basic Tourist Information
Open Daily 9AM to 8:45 PM
Holidays 12 noon – 8:45 PM
Entrance Fees:
S/ 15 adult, S/ 3 Minor
S/ 8 University Student (must provide ID)
Guided tours last 45 minutes and are in Spanish or English
Alternatively, consider making it creepier by taking a night tour of Lima that includes the catacombs. Several companies provide this option.
Safety Note: If you’re claustrophobic or have respiratory issues, you may want to reconsider visiting the catacombs. They’re pretty dusty and have low ventilation.
The Final Word
While researching this I discovered a new word: Ossuary. In spanish, the word is osario. Use it when you visit, because there is no other situation where you will.
Halloween’s not a big holiday in Peru. So it can be tough to find something to do. Because of that, and since the Basilica & Convent of San Fancisco is a top spot to visit anyway, consider a night tour for the year’s scariest night!
Check out their website for up to date information (Spanish only).
Find it all at Peru’s best overlooked trek… Huayhuash!
Blue, green, and turquoise lakes. Icy peaks, flowing rivers, and glaciers. And often not a human in sight. This is your experience if you hike the globally-recognized Huayhuash.
What is Huayhuash?
Huayhuash is a private conservation area managed by local communities. It’s recognized as one of the best hikes in the world. And with only 5-7,000 visitors a year, it’s much less crowded than the Inca Trail (which sees 500 people a day!).
Huayhuash is already well-known in trekking circles, and mountain biking is available now, too.
I think the best part of Huayhuash is that you can create your own adventure. Itineraries vary from three to eighteen days. They are generally moderate to moderately strenuous, so you don’t have to be an expert mountaineer to enjoy Huayhaush.
The crazy thing is, the Huayhuash mountain chain is only 30km (19 miles) long. Yet it includes 3 departments in Peru, campsites at 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level, hot springs, turquoise lakes, glaciers, and the country’s second tallest mountain.
Why Hike Huayhuash?
Unlike most hikes in the Andes, this landscape here is more open. Because of that you’ll get amazing views of the mountain chain as you walk and rest at campsites. That’s also why Huayhuash is considered one of the world’s best hikes. Highlights include the three lakes, all different colors, and Peru’s second tallest mountain, Yerupaja. Yerupaja is 6,635 meters (21,800 feet) tall.
The movie Touching the Void (based on a true story) takes place in Huayhuash, too. You’ll get up close with the mountain that Joe Simpson and Simon Yates scaled, Siula Grande.
Plus if you hike Huayhuash you’ll directly contribute to local communities who manage the campsites. And you’ll see cool wildlife like llamas, alpacas, viscachas, Andean foxes, and condors.
Last but not least, this hike is more affordable than its more famous competition in Southern Peru.
But Huayhuash is just as good… perhaps better.
Itineraries in Huayhuash
Again, Huayhaush really is a create-your-own-adventure, which is unique for a hike that’s so highly regarded. There are options for all types of budgets and expectations.
To do the WHOLE hike, there are 15-18 day itineraries. But more visitors take a 9-10 day option or the “mini” 7-day hike. Each of these includes the main attractions of the full 18-day hike. Finally, consider a 3-day hike if you’re short on time, funds, or aren’t sure about a longer trek.
Almost all of these start in Llamac in Ancash department and include the view of three lakes. Campsites are usually at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level.
Most Common Itineraries for Huayhuash
3 days: 15-20 km (9-12 miles). You’ll see a few of the major spots, all in the department of Ancash.
7 days: This is the “mini” version and is considered the minimum amount of time to see most of Huayhuash, and it changes depending on visitor preference.
10 days: Generally 110-115 km (about 70 miles); check out the sample itinerary below for more details!
15-18 days: This is the full Huayhuash hike and the only way to see everything.
NOTE: All of these include one or two passes at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) a day and start in the village of Llamac in Ancash
Alternative Hiking Options for Huayhuash
Some hikes start in the thermal baths in the department of Lima and include the Raura mountain range, which is adjacent to Huayhuash. A few tour companies offer archaeology-based hikes, and several center on mountain climbing.
9-Day Example Itinerary
The most common itinerary for Huayhuash is 9-11 days. That’s because you see all the “big” attractions and aren’t going to be rushed. This is a moderately strenuous trek which includes several 8-9 hour long hikes.
Day 1
You start off in Huaraz (Ancash’s hiking capital and 8 hours from Lima). From there it’s a 2 hour ride to Chiquian, and from there 1 more hour to Llamac.
Llamac is where trek begins.
From Llamac it’s a forty minute walk to Pocpa, and a further 1.5 hours to the campsite. Another option is to continue hiking uphill to Cuartelhuain for the night.
Day 2
Start getting used to early mornings! At 7 am start the 2 hr uphill walk to Cacananpunta Pass, located at 4,750 meters or 15,580 feet above sea level. By lunchtime the hiking gets easier and you camp at Mitucocha.
Mitucocha is next to a river and you’ll chill with views of snowcapped mountains from the green valley.
Campsite at Mitucocha.
Day 3
This is another 5 hour day of hiking. Today the tallest point is Yanapunta Pass, at 4,650 meters, or 15,260 feet. If you haven’t started, consider coca tea for the altitude.
You end up at Carhuacocha lake to camp for the night.
Yanapunta Pass. You get an idea of how massive the landscape is by the people in the middle.
Day 4
It’s the first big day! That’s because you’ll walk for 8 hours, see the 3 lakes, and go over Siula Pass, next to the infamous Siula Grande.
Siula Pass is the tallest pass of the hike so far at 4,785 meters (15,700 feet). From there you’ll get an awesome view of the three lakes and mountain range behind them.
Afterwards it’s all downhill to the Huayhuash campsite.
Suila Pass.
Day 5
This is a day of hiking for 5 hours to Viconga, where you can soak in hot springs. In case it’s not obvious, NEVER pass up a chance to soak in hot springs during a long, cold hike!
You’ll also go over Portachuelo Pass, which is about the same height as Siula, and end up at an altitude of 4,350 meters (17,560 feet) to camp for the night.
Viconga Campsite at night.
Day 6
By now you might be used to getting up at 7am and walking for hours. Which is exactly what you’ll do today. The total hiking time today is about 8 hours.
You’ll summit Cuyoc Pass at 5,000 meters (16,400 feet). From there you’ll view the whole Huayllapa valley and head on down to the campsite. If you have energy go to the Antonio lookout. From there you can view the entire mountain chain.
Day 7
For three hours you’ll walk to the town of Huayllapa, the first place you can buy limited food and supplies.
Rest up, make some phone calls, or just chill in town, because afterwards it’s 4-5 hours of slogging uphill to the campsite at 4,235 meters (13,900 feet).
Day 8
This is the longest day. You’ll hike for roughly 9 hours and go over two passes that are over 4,700 meters (15,400 feet) high. At the second pass, you’ll have lunch and enjoy one last great view of Huayhuash.
Yaucha Pass
Day 9
Today’s short and 80% of the walk is downhill. You’ll finish at the town of Pacllon. From Pacllon take a bus back to Chiquian and then Huaraz.
Campsite on the last night of the Huayhuash hike
Afterwards, rest up, eat, and bask in the knowledge that you did the most awesome hike ever.
Start thinking of how to brag to those people who could’ve come but didn’t :)
How to Prepare
How to Prepare Physically to Hike Huayhuash
Since Huayhuash is a multiday trek and the passes you’ll cross are incredibly high, it’s important to be in good hiking shape and to acclimatize to the altitude.
You can acclimatize in the city of Huaraz and take day hikes from there. First I’d take it easy in Huaraz for a couple of days since the city itself sits at 3,000 meters or 10,000 feet. Before arriving, make sure you’re in good shape and able to take on a long, sometimes strenuous hike. Practice makes perfect, so get in plenty of hiking back home beforehand.
Day Hikes from Huaraz
Huascaran National Park. Photo by Alex Azabache on Pexels.com
The best hikes from Huaraz include:
Churup: a glacial lake and a hike that is 6 km (almost 4 miles) total. It’s 3 km up, then 3 km downhill.
Huascaran National Park: You can hike for hours among snowpeaks, crystalline lakes, and the famous quenual tree forest in this beautiful park.
Lake 69: Just like Churup, this is a completely uphill climb to a glacial lake. But the trek for Lake 69 is twice as long at 12 km (7.5 miles).
Paron: This lake is the largest in the Cordillera Blanca mountain chain and generally less visited than Lake 69 and Churup. The hike is 20 km (12 1/5 miles) and you may want to spend the night in nearby Caraz to get an early start.
Pastoruri: Pastoruri may be the easiest glacier to visit ever! You’ll spend a few hours on a bus to take the hike, which lasts about an hour.
Rajucolta: A 7-km (4.3 miles) hike to a beautiful glacial lake
Wilcacocha: 7.6 km or 4.7 miles is all you need to find yet another amazing glacial lake near Huaraz!
Huaraz is a cool town with lots of backpackers and hikers. So it’s easy to find a guide, information on how to arrive to trails, and hiking buddies.
Always stay well-hydrated at these altitudes. Avoid alcohol and caffeine initially, and consider an over-the-counter medicine to avoid altitude sickness.
Finally if you want to try a shorter multi-day hike to prepare for Huayhuash I recommend Santa Cruz, yet another hike recognized as one of the best in the world!
Whether you think you can or can’t, you’re probably right (Henry Ford).
Remember it’s tents outside every night when you hike Huayhuash. There are no showers and toilets are waterless. So, it’s, ahem, rustic.
If you’ve prepped enough physically, you’ll know. And just knowing may be enough. Of course, who you go with is crucial. When the air is thin, the weather cold, and my legs tired, I always want the most positive people around me.
Finally, just enjoy the hike. It’s not a race, and instead of rushing through and tiring out on Day 4, take your time and set a good pace.
How to Book Huayhuash
Responsible Tourism Professionals
Our friends, Hombres y Montañas (Men and Mountains) have worked in Huayhuash for generations. They are a family company and are professionals in responsible tourism.
Connect with them on Facebook to find out more and make a reservation.
Best time of the Year to Hike Huayhuash
May to September is the best time to hike Huayhuash because the rainy season has ended by about mid-May. The best time to go is late May and June. The vegetation will still be green and it doesn’t get as cold at night as in July or August, which are also the most popular months for trekking in the area.
Avoid traveling in the rainy season from November-April, when landslides are common and accommodations can be hard to find.
Where to Stay & Eat in Huaraz
The backpacker classic in Huaraz is Churup.
Cafe Andino and California Cafe are spots to check out for relaxing with a good book and coffee or coca tea.
There are lots of options for Peruvian food and nightlife, with 13 Buhos perhaps the best spot to grab a drink.
What to bring
The Essentials
Obviously, trekking equipment (and climbing gear if that’s your thing). For a hike similar to the one above, you should have this equipment at a minimum:
Backpack with water cover
Rain poncho, especially if it’s not June-September
Rainproof tent
Sleeping bag
Waterproof hiking shoes or boots
2 pairs of hiking pants
A couple of short sleeved shirts (the weather can get surprisingly warm)
2 long sleeved shirts
1 set of pajamas
A bathing suit for Viconga and its hot springs
Down jacket
Sandals to let your feet breathe when not hiking
Sunglasses
Quick dry travel towel
Head lamp
Toiletries, including sunscreen and hand sanitizer
Medicine kit
Straw filter or similar products
Travel medical isurance
Snacks! Coca leaves are great for altitude too
A GPS if going alone
Nice-To-Haves
You may want to consider these, depending on your preference and how much you want to bring.
Solar charger for smartphone
Extra camera batteries
Trekking poles
Sleeping pad
Thermos
Emergency oxygen
TIPS: It’s common to rent equipment in Huaraz, or to even buy used equipment. Most agencies provide some or most of the equipment written above.
Weather
Huayhuash in the morning. Photo by David Torres on Unsplash
The temperature goes down to 0-2 C (32-36 F) at night and is coldest in July. But it goes up to 20C (68F), even at high altitudes, at daytime.
Expect lighter rainstorms in May and Oct. From June through September, known as “Andean summer”, you can get clear blue skies all day, every day.
Huaraz gets up to 20C (68F) during the day and will go down to 5-6C (40’s F) at night.
How to Get There
Buses leave regularly from Lima to Huaraz all day. The trip takes 8 hours. Huaraz has an airport but flights are not always regular.
From the north, buses from Trujillo and Chiclayo go to Huaraz, too.
Cost
The cost of hiking Huayhuash is going to depend on a lot of factors, especially number of days and what’s included. Depending on price, agencies may provide 3 square meals a day, a tent, sleeping bag, a team to carry supplies, cooks, entrance to the communities’ campsites, and transportation.
Having said that huge caveat, you can expect to more or less pay these amounts for Huayhuash:
3-day tour: $300
9-11 days: $500-650
15-18 days: Up to $1,400
Personalized 152km (95 mile) hike: $4,000
If going alone, make sure you pay each community for using the trail and campsites. Remember that only ONE community (Huayllapa) has shops, so you’re not restocking daily.
And expect to pay in cash.
These communities provide the following campsites:
Huayllapa: Viconga, Guanacpatayand Huatiaq
Llámac: Cuartewain and Jahuacocha
Pacllon: Qashpapampa and Jahuacocha
Pocpa: Pocpa
Queropalca: Mitucocha and Carhuacocha
Quisuarcancha: Carhuacocha
Siula Grande: Base camp
Tupac Amaru: Huayhuash
Uramaza: Viconga lake and hot springs :)
Conclusion
Huayhuash is among the best hikes in the world, and it’s way less crowded than Peru’s most famous hike, the Inca Trail.
Definitely consider it if adventure is in your blood. Just make sure to acclimatize to the altitude and to prepare your body first.
Again, the mountain chain’s preservation depends on local communities, so be sure to leave no trace and respect the people and wildlife. To get the most out of your trip and hike Huayhuash, check out our partners at Hombres y Montañas Huayhuash (Facebook). These guys are responsible tourism professionals who focus on adventure tourism in Ancash.
Unless otherwise noted,all photos by our friend Erick Bernabe from Hombres y Montañas. Muchas gracias, Erick!!
Photo by Lukas on Pexels.com Quarantine is a great chance to take advantage of extra time to plan your trip! So grab a cup of coffee and start your epic adventure
All You Need to Know on Peru Travel Restrictions and Reopening During Coronavirus
Latest News on Peru Reopening: Updated November 2, 2020
FREE ENTRANCE TO MUSEUMS THROUGH NOVEMBER 15!!
If you’re in Peru, definitely take advantage of this deal. With its history and archaeology, Peru has excellent museums (especially Lima and Cusco, but don’t miss the museum of Sipan up north, either!). Go for free through November 15. You have to wear a mask and take your temperature to enter.
The Covid-19 pandemic is lasting longer in many countries than we hoped. Because of this I’ll update this page regularly. In Peru travel restrictions may change so keep checking this and your embassy’s webpage.
**Peru Moves to Stage 4 Reopening**
This means limited international flights, specifically from Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, and Mexico. This may change quickly (and hopefully the list will grow!).
Flight & Border Restrictions
International Flights: You must show evidence of a negative Covid test, taken no longer than 48 hours before departure
Domestic flights: You will get your temperature taken upon boarding and must have a mask and shield. Also, you must sign a declaration that you are not knowingly sick.
Bus transportation will also follow these safety measures.
ONLY TICKETED INDIVIDUALS are allowed to travel. Because of this, no standing is allowed on buses
Embassies are providing information on repatriation flights Callao. See links to embassies below.
All foreign visas extend until end of crisis
Border status: Borders are ONLY open to leave and go back to country. But contact your embassy before buying a ticket to avoid any mistakes.
If you are Peruvian: You must self quarantine for 14 days after arriving to Peru. There are additional restrictions if you come from a high impacted area. These are Brazil, Iran, China, and some European countries as of July 27th.
Tips & Info for Making Reservations
If you book a flight, hotel, or tour, make sure it is fully refundable. At least make sure you can postpone your reservation.
Links and Resources
The best way to stay informed is to read your country’s embassy page. These update regularly. Plus you can sign up for notifications:
Oxapampa might have the best Peruvian coffee, but like the town itself, the dark roast is used to being overlooked. This region has always been a country apart. German settlers first established the town of Pozuzo in 1851, and architecture resembles 19th-century Prussia.
The pioneers became cattle ranchers and coffee farmers. For this reason you’ll spot Oxapampinos in cowboy hats and leather boots, another way the region sets itself apart. For a while, the mother country was more tightly tied to Oxapampa than was Peru. To Spanish descendents in Lima, Oxapampa was just another part of the interior, another backwater rural province.
But now Oxapampa is en vogue. The cool kids know all about the annual music festival selvamanos, and the perfect weather attracts Peruvians from all over. The history of the area is an attraction, too. There are stories of tourists arriving in “Oxa” and asking for the gringos; they come to see the white people with blue eyes and blonde hair, farming in the middle of the country.
We were going to see Janina’s family for the first time since our marriage. It was going to include a ceremony to renew our vows, a second wedding since they did not make it to the one in the USA. I was excited to meet my in-laws. But I was just as excited to go back to the Central Jungle.
The Wild West of Peru
Arriving To Oxa
Peruvians hate open windows. Our 10-hr bus ride came with a bonus hour of traffic and bickering over whether we could open one window after leaving Lima. We lost the argument and steamed like potatoes in the stale air on the overnight route.
So it was just another bus ride in Peru.
Fortunately Oxapampa has epic breakfasts. Fresh milk, tamales, cecina bacon, bread, cocona jelly, and local coffee awaited us. We ate in jeans and t-shirts inside an open-air cafeteria built from logs. Maybe it was the dry heat and wooden buildings, but “Oxa” felt like the Wild West at that moment. Clouds rolled over green hills, lazily brushed away by the morning heat.
Consuming Our Way Through The Central Jungle
It was a day of food. Janina’s grandmother prepared a traditional Pachamanca for lunch. Pachamanca is slow-cooked meat, potatoes, and tamal with Peruvian spices. The specific ingredients change according to the landscape. In Oxapampa they use pork.
And nothing beats slow-cooked pork.
Then the family showed me their homes. Years ago the gigantic estate was divided up equally among siblings. Each owns an entire transect, from the road to the top of the hill. The Hassingers were original settlers in Oxapampa. Today their descendents still harvest the fruit and coffee plants that flourish in the tropics, and most have pigs or chickens, too.
Afterwards we had a few free days. The first thing I wanted to try was the sauna. Now, rural Peru is not known for saunas. But Janina’s cousin mentioned a “sauna rustica” that only cost S/ 5, and I was hooked. That’s UNDER 2 DOLLARS.
She said it was 10 minutes away by foot. So on a whim I forced along my mother and Janina’s family to a small farm across the bridge under a slightly sweltering sun. Naturally the walk was 30 minutes long.
Upon arrival, we realized “rustica” was not an exaggeration. It was a sauna in the loosest sense of the word. Really, it was a man-sized adobe box with a hole to stick out one’s head. Steam flowed through a tube into the structure. On the other side of the tube was a pot full of herbs and water, sitting over an open fire.
I opened the tiny door, stood up, and poked my head out. Steam started to flow into the sauna. It was a bit warm, and the smoke from the fire made it uncomfortable to breathe.
“Rustica”
Nobody else volunteered after Janina and me. But we were the most exfoliated people at the church that evening.
Janina loving the sauna rústica!
The ceremony was short and sweet. The priest found it funny that we were renewing our vows after one year of marriage. Since he didn’t know us, that was pretty much all he talked about.
The last morning of the trip involved a cave, a cheese factory, and a distillery. Thankfully, the last two had free samples. Sugar cane liquor was too good to pass up, and we shared a half liter after the freebies finished. A nun, who came with a busload of chaotic children, was in front of us in line. Their chaperone, apparently.
“I’ll take a double,” she told the bartender.
Sugar cane liquor, enjoyed in Sepia tint
Preparing The Best Peruvian Coffee
After lunch, held at the abuelita’s, we prepared coffee. Janina and her aunt showed me the process. First, you pick the berries when they are ripe. Then, you process the berries through a machine that turns them into pulp and spits out the white seeds, which are the actual coffee beans. The pulp is sweet and people make jelly with it. After the seeds dry on a tin roof for some days, you roast them over fire and finish the job with a manual coffee grinder.
This machine spits the seeds out of the coffee berries
We were slowly lumbering because of the lunch and liquor. But the earthy roast of our final product jump started everyone. It was the best Peruvian coffee I’ve had.
Certainly there is no fresher coffee experience. And there was no need to go to the store for a filter, much less cream and sugar. One provides for themselves in this part of the interior. Janina’s family gave us a 10lb bag of coffee beans. I didn’t know at the time that this bag would begin my coffee obsession.
Us with Abuelita
The Struggle to Smuggle
I wanted that 10 pounds of coffee. It was the best Peruvian coffee I had tried. But I wasn’t convinced that a giant unmarked plastic bag filled with an agricultural product would pass through US customs.
So I got creative. First, I went to a cafe in Lima and asked for empty coffee bags, which would seem more legit to a customs agent. But the barista wanted to charge more than the coffee itself would have cost. Once again, the precio gringo was screwing me over.
Then I tried to find a marker and a non-transparent bag, thinking if I wrote “cafe” on the side, it would be better. But that seemed sketchier than just carrying the unmarked, see-through bag.
Soon enough I ran out of time and stuffed the giant bag into my duffel before hailing a taxi to the airport. The coffee was on my mind the entire flight to Miami. When I arrived, I was directed to a customs official since I indicated that I had an agricultural product.
“And what are you bringing from Peru?”
“Coffee”
The agent waved me by with the same expression that horses have when they wave flies away with their tails. Of course, Janina’s family never worried about the coffee not getting through customs. In Peru’s Wild West, one goes by their own rules.
Delicious German beer
Restaurants offer German inspired dishes in Oxapampa
Cool carriage outside our hotel room
Log cabin in Oxapampa
Conclusion
The view from our hotel room’s porch!
Oxapampa is one of my favorite places of all time. The weather, food, and experiences are incredibly unique and awesome.
If you’re interested in visiting Oxapampa and the Central Jungle, check out my Central Peru Adventure Guide. Or this off-the-beaten-path Peru itinerary, which includes the Central Jungle.
And if you’re too excited to wait to try the best Peruvian coffee, your best bet is organic coffee from nearby Chanchamayo. You can find this online or a local supermarket.
Leave a comment below if you love coffee or want to visit Oxapampa :)
View of Machu Picchu from the train tracks. By McKay Savage from London, UK – Peru – Salkantay Trek 165 – CC BY 2.0, //commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=23462496
Even the “cheap” $3 train to Machu Picchu has a hierarchy. Or so the woman, a native of Cusco, explained to us as we stayed put in our assigned seats on the local train in Machu Picchu Pueblo. You see, she continued, since Machu Picchu belongs to Cusco, Cusqueños deserved the seats on the train. We were welcome to stand.
Staring directly at us and bent over slightly, hands on her hips, she hoped to avoid being on her feet during the 3 hour, 30 minute journey between Machu Picchu Pueblo and Cusco. She reminded me of a rooster ready to peck at the intruder in the chicken coop. She had on clothes from top fashion brands, not the traditional colorful fabrics and bowler hat. I figured my husband, an American who couldn’t take the local train (you need a Peruvian ID to do so), didn’t have a similar confrontation on the more expensive tourist train, on which he had just boarded. Maybe you get what you pay for.
That’s not to say Gringos don’t try to avoid paying for the exorbitant tourist train ticket to Machu Picchu. Lately the popular strategy is to take the “back way” from Cusco via Hidroelectrica. This takes more planning and adds time to a trip, but is multiple times cheaper than taking the regular Inca Trail or the trains from Cusco.
Upon arriving at Hidroelectrica, backpackers pay $40 for the one-way train ride or just walk alongside the tracks to Machu Picchu Pueblo. It’s the ultimate budget option to arrive to Machu Picchu, but you’ll find the hikers are almost all foreigners. After all, why would Peruvians take all these extra steps when it’s cheaper to just take the local train from Cusco or Ollantaytambo? It’s one example of the Peruvian state’s attempts to make our cultural heritage accessible to Peruvians as prices are driven up due to an annual increase in foreign tourists. It’s also one of the privileges of being from the land of ceviche and the Incas.
Taking the Local Train to Machu Picchu
Our day had started before 5AM with a wakeup call in our hostel. After miraculously getting my mother out of bed, we slogged out with our backpacks and hiking shoes on. The piercing chill of the dark morning in Ollantaytambo met us head-on. But that was quickly forgotten as I realized that we didn’t know where the train station was. Just as quickly, this worry was alleviated by groups of tourists, from pairs to dozens in a pack, seemingly getting out of their respective hotels all at the same time. Their backpacks, cameras, and the fact that none of them looked like locals gave it away. They scurried in the same direction like ants to a crumb. And so we followed over a hundred strangers down to Ollantaytabmo’s train station.
As we approached the station, small stands and kiosks run by señoras appeared on both sides of the cobblestone street. Overlooking us in the foreground was Veronica, the imposing mountain Apu not far from town. We had arrived half an hour early and so decided to buy breakfast. The options were traditional for the region; maca, quinoa oatmeal, bread with avocado, kiwicha balls, and coffee. All healthy, natural options guaranteed to boost our energy throughout the morning!
Proving I’m Peruvian
We bought a half dozen rolls of bread and hot quinoa. Soon after the train whistle pierced our morning drowsiness, and we boarded, breakfasts in hand. First my mother got on with no problem, followed by my sister. But before I stepped onto the first stair the conductor asked me if I was Peruvian- I had to show ID! I showed the man my passport and he let me on. My sister eased the shock at being questioned on my Peruvianness by pointing out all of my clothes were brought in the United States, making me stand out among my countrymen.
The train tracks were adjacent to the Urubamba River. I loved watching as the vegetation steadily changed from Andean bushes, accustomed to the cold and altitude, to tropical trees native to the cloud forest. The teensy towns and solitary farmers started to move about with the first rays of sunshine. It made me think of my previous job working alongside small villages in the Andes. My career and studies had taken me to so many places in Peru, yet this was my first time going to Machu Picchu. My chest had been bursting with excitement for weeks.
The Tourist Train
While chugging along the tracks, the train came to a stop in the middle of the journey. Coincidentally, so had a tourist train, which was on the tracks next to us. “Oohhhh”s and “ahhhh”s filled our cabin as people leaned over and peeked inside the other train. Each passenger had more space than we- in fact, some had breakfast, even laptops, on top of a table in front of them! The larger seats and overall appearance made our train seem antique.
For the rest of the trip I felt a bit fidgety, with my seat suddenly seeming hard and narrow. I actually wondered if the beautiful tourist train was worth paying 40 times more than the local train.
But before long we arrived to our final destination, the tiny town of Aguas Calientes (aka Machu Picchu Pueblo). As people disembarked from whatever train service they had used, they funneled towards the bus station for the 20 minute ride to Machu Picchu. It was so efficient and fast that the only recollection I have of Aguas Calientes is the large statue of the Inca conquerer Pachacutec, visible as we pulled in.
All Trains Lead to Machu Picchu
By The Rambling Man – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, //commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6327163
Of course, Machu Picchu was more than worth the wait. We did the strenuous Machu Picchu Mountain hike, enabling us to view all of Machu Picchu, the Urubamba River, and Huaynu Picchu after three hours of going up stone stairs. Throughout the hike we passed tourists from dozens of countries. We all had the same experience despite the varied manners of arriving to the world wonder.
And fortunately, we didn’t have to give up our seats to the rooster woman on the return trip. My sister explained that tourism is important to Cusco, so tourists should be allowed to have seats, too. The woman finally relented. After all, she was only trying to push the limits of the privilege of having a Cusco identification card. Cusqueños travel to Machu Picchu on the local train for even less than other Peruvians: S/ 3 compared to S/ 10. Or less than a US dollar!
Experiencing Machu Picchu is a reminder of humanity’s potential. Archaeologists still argue over the true purpose of the ancient city. All of us that day were fortunate to make the trip. We arrived at the same spot and roughly the same time, despite the differences in price, privilege, or luxury of our journeys. And each of us returned to Cusco collectively richer than they had been in the morning.
(This was translated and edited from my wife’s and sister-in-law’s account. As an American, the closest I got to the local train was passing one by on my journey :).)
Start Your Visit!
Check out my guide to make your itinerary for Peru below. You might not be able to take the cheap train :), but I’ll help you have the best adventure possible!
Photo by Elemaki – Own work, CC BY 3.0, //commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3335925
Reasons to Visit Gocta Waterfall
Don’t Miss How to Visit!
Depending on who you talk to, the waterfall of Gocta in Amazonas, Peru is anything from the 3rd to 17th tallest in the world. The strange thing about this is that Gocta, locally known as “La Chorrera”, is considered the same height by most accounts. The waterfall is composed of two cataracts that together measure 771 meters (2,530 feet). Adding to the mystery, other scientific data of the area is pretty easy to find and not under debate. For example, nearby Yumbilla Falls, officially recorded in 2007, doesn’t suffer from a similar controversy. To visit Gocta, one treks through a cloud forest ecosystem for a few hours, where they can spot 21 other, smaller waterfalls in addition to 110+ species of birds, monkeys, and even the elusive spectacled bear.
This biodiverse area is where frigid Andean waters gush down steep mountainsides, unstoppable on the way to their destination in the Amazon rainforest. The area is almost as wealthy in wildlife and waterfalls as the capital, Lima, is in horn-blaring taxi drivers. Obviously, we had to make the hike to the enigmatic Gocta and see this mysterious waterfall in person.
We had to take a bus to the town of Cocachimba from our hotel in Chachapoyas in order to start the hike. An unpainted school bus picked us up at 8am, uncharacteristically punctual for Peru. From there it was an hour of going downhill, into warmer, more tropical, mosquito-filled climates.
Throughout the hike from Cocachimba you canhear Gocta beckoning you. The waterfall is visible from town, incredible considering that Gocta wasn’t officially recorded until 2002. At the beginning of the hike you can barely hear the whisper of the falls. The morning breeze is relatively cool, tropical vegetation covers the ground, and women sell fresh juice for S/ 1. It’s very pleasant.
After an hour or two of going over wooden bridges, stepping over leaves, and hearing the chirps of exotic birds, the noise of Gocta is undeniable. But now the falls hide from view- it’s like you’re playing hide and seek with the colossal cataract. This is another enigma of Gocta- the closer one gets, the less likely it seems to be able to spot it.
Gocta reappears near the end of our hike. Photo by J0EL 20001 – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, //commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=74794371
The last twenty minutes were the most difficult. We were under a hot sun and anxious to arrive at the falls after so many games of peek-a-boo. The vegetation stopped covering the path, which was now dry. We could spot groups of tourists ahead simply from the dust clouds. At one point Gocta seemed to quit hiding from us, until we took another curve around the mountain and it again disappeared. This time the accordion of time stretched out, with each step reminding us of the heat and sun. I slightly worried about returning since my water source was under half-full.
Then, just as magically as it left us, Gocta reappeared, with its mist creating a thundering force that drowned out conversation. At 200 ft (65 meters out) the falls sprayed our glasses and blurred our vision. It was raining sideways! I had to yell to ask my wife and her sister if they wanted to get closer. They shook their heads no.
But I had to go. I wanted to get as close as possible to this recently discovered secret of Amazonas. This was a waterfall unknown to the outside world less than twenty years ago. Still today there weren’t many tourists on the path. We were part of a lucky few.
About 200 feet (65 meters) from the falls. Photo by Pitxiquin – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, //commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=59769466
The first dozen steps were fairly easy. Gocta is surrounded by rocks, and at about 75 feet (23 meters) out my boot slipped slightly. Soon it was like trudging through a rainstorm on top of a perilous slip-and-slide. I could see the mist ahead was getting more blurry, so I took off my glasses. It didn’t help. At 50 feet (15 meters) I stopped, having slipped two more times despite carefully planning each step. Gocta was not going to permit me to get closer, much less enter the pool underneath the falls.
Ahead was only mist and thunder. I stood for a minute and replenished my weariness in Gocta’s cold, energizing waters. I was no longer thirsty or tired. A smile involuntarily crept across my face. We made it.
Chuchuhuasi
The walk back was as dry and hot as expected, even though I started off soaking wet. I made it back relatively quickly, in under 3 hours. My mind was set on lunch.
I wasn’t disappointed. The soup in Cocachimba was one of the most replenishing meals of my life. The three of us shared a table with an older man and his daughter, who we recognized from the busride earlier.
The restaurant was pretty standard for rural Peru; cement floors, a chalkboard announcing the day’s menu with 5 set options, and Inka Cola sharing shelves with Coke. Most of the decorations were photos taken from the annual calendars of Cocachimba. Gocta featured prominently in many of the photos, giving the impression that the cataract had been world famous for decades.
The chalkboard had a dish of which I had never heard: Chuchuhuasi. I asked the old man what this was. The old Japanese-Peruvian smiled widely, creases deepening around his eyes and in his forehead. The man, who rode a horse on the trail to Gocta, made a noticeable effort to stand up and yell over another table to order 2 chuchuhuasis. I was so hungry that I didn’t mind eating more, considering how delicious the meal must be.
Before I got to ask what it was, two shot glasses were on the table. The man lifted one, matching his dark-brown eyes with mine. “Chuchuhuasi!” he exclaimed. I lifted my glass, careful not to spill the transparent liquid, as it was close to the brim. It went down in one shot, tasting vaguely like an herbal tea before the overwhelming aftertaste of moonshine. I felt instantly buzzed. The old man was ecstatic. Afterwards he told my wife chuchuhuasi is an aphrodisiac. He found this hilarious.
As our trip ended, I got up from our table and closed the menu to give to the waitress. Only then did I notice the restaurant’s claim to fame: “Cocachimba, hogar de la catarata mas alta del mundo!” Cocachimba, home to the world’s tallest waterfall.
At least in Cocachimba, the mystery is settled.
How to Get to Gocta Waterfall
By Srooose – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, //commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=75690105
Transportation
To get to Gocta you first have to go to Chachapoyas, the cobblestoned capital of Amazonas. “Chacha” is a 1 hour flight from Lima. Cruz del Sur and Movil provide bus services, too:
Destination
Trip Length
Cost*
Chiclayo
9 hr
S/ 56-76
Lima
22-23 hr
S/ 130-165
Trujillo
12-14 hr
S/ 65-85
As of 4/23/2020
Smaller buses and share cars (collectivos) leave from Cajamarca (12 hr) and Tarapoto (8 hr), too.
Any tour agency will take you to Gocta from Chachapoyas. Normally you make a reservation the day before, and they pick you up the next morning.
You can also take a bus combi from the terminal terrestre in the morning. Go to Puente Cocahuaico, a one hour ride that costs S/ 5. From there take a mototaxi to Cocachimba to see the bottom of Gocta, or to San Pablo to hike to the first cataract. Each hike takes roughly 6 hours roundtrip. The mototaxi will cost S/ 10-15.
Note: One US Dollar is equal to about 3 Peruvian soles.
Price
The entrance to the hike costs S/ 20.
Where to Stay
You can usually find triple in Cocachimba or San Pablo for roughly S/ 50. If you go from June through August, consider booking ahead of time since this is Peru’s high season for tourism.
This article may contain affiliate / compensated links. For full information, please see my disclaimer here.
Yes, Peru is a top destination for hiking, but the country’s food is an adventure in itself. For this reason food is one of the TOP reasons to visit the country. Peru is a world-class culinary destination whose recognition has shot up in the past decade and a half. In that time the number of restaurants for tourists (at all price ranges) has increased noticeably, as have the number of restaurants at the top of world rankings.
This is only for the best if you’re looking for an adventure. Peru’s culinary richness is derived from a fusion of fusions; coast, mountains and jungle have their own ingredients and dishes, which have combined with those of immigrants from Spain, Italy, Japan, China, and other countries. The result is an ever-evolving gastronomy which demonstrates the cultural heritage of Peru and is a point of pride among its citizens.
Already getting ready for your trip to Peru? See my packing list recommendations to maximize your adventure below:
15 Tasty Tips for Food in Peru
Before we get into what foods to eat in Peru, a quick cultural note: In Peru, there are set-priced meals called menus. Usually you’ll find them at lunchtime, which is the biggest meal of the day. Menus are the cheapest option and include an appetizer, main dish and a drink. I recommend getting a menu option when possible. You’ll get more food and end up paying less than for a plate straight off the actual menu (I know, the wording is confusing). Plus you’ll get to try more traditional foods! Often the first serving is a salad, soup, ceviche, or causa.
And now that we’ve established that you should definitely consider visiting Peru based on its food alone, what should you try once you’re there? Here are my top recommendations:
Seafood
Ceviche: You’ve probably heard of ceviche and perhaps tried it. Peruvian ceviche has lime juice and spicy aji peppers, and is served with sweet potato, yuca, giant corn, or plantain chips. It comes in hundred of varieties. Ingredients change with the local geography and chef’s preference, and I’ve never met one I didn’t like. But for starters, I recommend two classics: the ceviche mixto (a mix of fish and seafood, including octopus!) or ceviche de pescado (white fish).
Peruvians don’t typically eat ceviche after lunchtime. The fish is from the morning, and it’s best to eat fresh.
Arroz con mariscos: On the Peruvian coast you can find this mix of seafood, spices, and rice. It includes all types of seafood such as scallops, squid, and octopus. Some restaurants pour homemade sauce on top.
Other Traditional Peruvian Foods to Try
Tacu tacu: Ah, a personal favorite. The concept of tacu tacu is simple. Rice and beans, mashed together, are then fried. They then accompany a flank steak. This is a hearty comfort food and disturbingly hard to find sometimes. Therefore I recommend trying it when it’s available.
Arroz con Pollo: Rice with chicken sounds bland but is far from it. It is prepared by slow-cooking cilantro-infused rice, chicken and vegetables. This is a Peruvian classic and often served with spicy aji or creamy huancaina sauce as a condiment. It’s also delicious when served with duck instead of chicken(arroz con pato).
Papa a la huancaina: Huancaina is a delicious, creamy and slightly-spicy sauce. This appetizer is huancaina with potato slices. Huancaina is also an amazing condiment in general. It’s a true Peruvian obsession (you will find it in packets just like ketchup)! But the homemade version you find in restaurants is unbeatable.
Aji de gallina: Aji de gallina is shredded chicken in a slightly spicy, creamy sauce. It’s a personal favorite and is found at many restaurants and menus.
Caldo de Gallina: Chicken soup may sound boring. But this is a Peruvian comfort food and Peruvians designate it a “lavantamuertos” (raises the dead). Although it would be more accurate to say this raises the hungover. Peruvians eat this for breakfast and you can find it at nighttime too.
Causa: The best comparison for this a caserole. Causa is two layers of mashed potatoes stuffed with chicken, tuna or another filling in-between. This is a popular appetizer in menus, especially in Lima.
Lomo Saltado: Easily THE most popular Peruvian dish among my friends. Lomo saltado is stir-fried beef with aji pepper, vegetables and either rice or fries. This dish always hits the spot- even my vegetarian friends agree!
Lomo saltado close-up
Specialties
Pollo a la brasa: Oh man. Find a polleria for this delicious Peruvian rotisserie chicken. You can buy the whole chicken or a half, quarter, and sometimes eighth (why even bother?!). It comes with 2-3 sides such as fries, salad, or yuca.
Pachamanca: In traditional towns, Pachamanca is more of an event than a food. During the harvest, villagers prepare the Pachamanca and share the food afterward. They cook meat over hot rocks, then cover it with herbs and dirt to create a natural oven. Pachamanca is Quechua for “pot of the earth”. You’ll find Pachamanca in some restaurants and might be shocked at the price, but know it is due to the amount of time put into the meal.
Peruvians today also cook Pachamanca in an actual pot. The ingredients change according to the geographical area you are in, but generally include at least one meat, potatoes, and even tamales or lima beans. The herbs usually include huacatay, which is Peruvian black mint.
Rocoto Relleno: This is the famous dish of the southern city of Arequipa. Rocoto is a spicy pepper that is part of ceviche and other dishes. However the rocoto should not be spicy at all in this dish. The pepper is stuffed with beef, cheese, vegetables and spices, and then baked.
If You’re Going to the Jungle…
Juanes: This is almost impossible to find outside the jungle. Juanes are meat (usually chicken), rice, eggs, olives, and spices, cooked in banana leaves. You unwrap the leaves, and the fresh deliciousness hits you in the face. And it’s just perfect.
Tacacho: Here’s another food found principally in the jungle. Mashed plantains are mixed with pork and shaped into a ball. This is a breakfast food. It normally comes with slabs of pork called cecina and coffee.
What About Desserts?
Of course, Peru also has a ton of great desserts. Alfajores are cookies filled with sweet dulce de leche (caramel). They are everywhere. In addition, I recommend every lover of ice cream to try the lucuma flavor. Lucuma is a Peruvian fruit that makes for a refreshing ice cream, especially when paired with chocolate.
The most famous regional dessert is suspiroa la limena. Traditional suspiro is dulce de leche topped with meringue. It’s popular in Lima.
What About Vegetarians?
There are not many traditional Peruvian vegetarian dishes, but locro and sopa de quinoa are two of my favorites. Locro is a squash stew with vegetables and queso fresco. And sopa de quinoa is, as the name implies, quinoa soup. Finally, there is sopa de queso. This soup has milk, noodles, cheese and spices. In high-tourist areas and major cities there are some vegetarian-friendly establishments, but they are still pretty scarce.
Street Food in Peru
There are two people in this world: those who love street food, and those who simply haven’t tried the right street food yet. I was in the latter group until Peru saved me. Beef heart kabobs named anitcucho, fried potato stuffed with meat called papa rellena, and tamales are my favorites. Fried cuy (giant guinea pig) on a stick is another popular one. The only street food to avoid is ceviche; you have no idea how fresh it is and do NOT want to experience that adventure. If you’re in Lima, consider Chinatown (barrio chino) for unique Asian-Peruvian street food options.
What to Drink in Peru
What to drink with all this delicious food? Inca Kola is Peru’s own soda that tastes roughly like birthday cake and is very addicting (hello, sugar high!). There are also tons of fruit juices thanks to Peru’s jungle and the variety of fruits it provides. I personally love camu-camu.
Pisco is Peru’s flagship spirit and the frothy Pisco sour is almost synonymous with the grape brandy. Pisco sours are made with Pisco, lime, bitters, and egg whites. I also like the passion fruit version, named Maracuyasour. And Chicanos are simply Pisco with lime and ginger ale; easy to make and easier to drink!
Pisco sour in process….
Peru’s beer scene has exploded in the past decade. Cusquena is the best of the famous beers, but almost every region has its own artisanal beer options today.
For the Adventurous Eaters…
Cuy, giant giunea pig, is a Peruvian delicacy. Peruvians serve it in one of three ways. “Chactado” is more common and is the cuy-on-a-stick version. Another version is grilled cuy served with rice and salad. But the best cuy is the most difficult to find: picante de cuy. In this dish, grilled cuy is served with rice and a peanut sauce. I’ve never loved cuy, but that peanut sauce is amazing.
Some regions have other delicacies that are unfamiliar to the traditional Western palate. Insects, including ants, are the most common. This is found in the jungle but you’ll also find ant snacks in places such as Chachapoyas in the north. It’s surprisingly good!
Now What?
Of course, to really experience Peruvian food you have to go to Peru. I designed Gringo Inca to help in your travels. This includes deciding where to go, how to budget your trip, staying safe while abroad, and what to include in your packing list (boots? backpack?).
What Peruvian foods have you tried, or are excited to try? Comment below for questions or tips for fellow travelers.
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