They say a shaman ran the Inca Trail in a quarter of the time that it takes a normal person to hike it. He channeled the spirit of a puma, and with feline nimbleness swiftly ran across bridge, trail and even cliffside with no fear of danger.
Maybe it’s true. What is certain is that the Inca Trail and surrounding area in Cuzco attract types who are into spirituality, both New Age yuppies and shamans alike. Streets in Cuzco cater to tourists’ interest in mysticism with everything from crystals to ayahuasca ceremonies.
Indeed, Cuzco is considered a sacred city in the Incan tradition. Even without that background, one can imagine how long hikes in stunningly beautiful environs can be a kind of spiritual experience. Or at least, to borrow from what’s trending in 2023, good for your mental health.
We sit around a large wooden table in the well-lit dining room at Nino’s Hotel with our tour company’s owner, Carlos, the evening before the hike. It’s just us and a couple dozen plants, our voices echoing in the well-lit room.
Carlos looks the part of professional tour operator in Cusco. He’s tanned with dark hair, clean cut, wearing a company jacket, and exuding confident wisdom. Besides that we have to pay the remaining balance before beginning the Trail, Carlos insists on spending a good hour to provide tips and advice.
The packing list he presents is longer than the trail itself, and includes items you’d never think necessary, like ear plugs. But Carlos covers all his bases, and sagely notes that tourists often regret ignoring the advice of locals.
He knows what he’s doing. After our eyes glaze over upon noticing the list’s shocking length, Carlos finally offers to include a porter. One of us audibly sighs from relief, then we thank him and pay the remaining balance.
Something we all understand is the privilege we have to go on this hike. Only 500 people a day are allowed on the Inca Trail, including porters and guides. This is why it’s recommended to book a spot months in advance.
There are various options, ranging from the “classic” 4-day to “alternative” treks throughout the region. The 2-day Short Inca Trail is ideal for travelers with little time or who don’t want to camp. It’s the only alternative to the classic 4-day version that also takes you directly to Machu Picchu, and not to Aguas Calientes, the cramped Andean village that sits in a narrow valley and buses visitors to the archaeological site all day.
So we choose that option. Our trek will be a 7.5-mile excursion on the final section of the Inca Trail. We’ll stroll right into Machu Picchu, then sleep in a comfortable hotel in Aguas Calientes. The following day we’ll have a full tour of Machu Picchu.
Carlos was right about at least one thing. Our hotel actually prepared hot breakfast with coca tea, which was ready just as we were trudging out the door at 3:25am.
Km 104
With bagged breakfasts in hand and daypacks over our shoulders, we load onto a tour van. A 90-minute bumpy ride to Ollantaytambo precedes the smoother train ride into much warmer climes. Our guide, Abraham, is already with us.
Abraham has the rare combination of experience and energizing enthusiasm for his job. Like Carlos, he’s tanned, clean cut, and with short black hair. But Abraham is a bit older, maybe in his 40’s, and has the build of someone who is constantly on the Trail.
His voice is energetic for 3:30 in the morning as he reviews our itinerary and explains why he loves this particular trail. All trekkers on the more popular 4-day option arrive to the Sun Gate together at dawn on Day 3. But hikers on the 2-day Inca Trail go at their own pace, so each group arrives at a separate time, enjoying a more intimate moment.
Our train arrives at Kilometer 104 right before my eyelids shut for a deep sleep. It’s warm and the train windows are slightly foggy from the lower altitude’s humidity. After crossing the rushing Urubamba River on a wooden footbridge we change into lighter clothes and put on mosquito repellant with DEET, one of the numerous items on Carlos’ list. There are other groups at the trail entrance. The sounds of people chattering, hurrying to the bathrooms, and spraying repellant take over the scene.
The hike starts off lush and green. Abraham is in the lead and is wearing the red company windbreaker and sunglasses. Well before getting into a decent walking rhythm we reach the first site, Chachabamba.
It’s the least visually impressive site of the day, but Chachabamba provides a look into the lives of everyday people at the height of the Incan Empire. It has a few roofless stone homes and storage buildings which are smooth to the touch. Like all Incan buildings, the stones are cut perfectly into each other with no mortar. There is what remains of an ancient ceremonial structure in the middle, facing the imposing, verdant mountains on the other side of the narrow valley.
Abraham steps in front of this structure and explains Incan culture, including traits that continue to this day. The rushing sounds of the Urubamba and an occasional far-away train whistle accompany his words.
“Ayni. Quechua for reciprocity,” he states, his shoulders slighter taller than before. It’s not a perfect translation; Ayni is a custom in small Andean villages of providing to anyone in need, and not expecting anything in return. It is part of a communal culture where everyone can expect food and a place to sleep at night. Abraham believes such practices made the Incan Empire unique, and actually superior, to contemporary conquering states.
The hike really begins after this educational moment. The first part of the Short Inca Trail is narrow and incessantly uphill. It’s warm and the trail is dusty dry. A fire took out the vegetation, and the only chance for escape from the sun, on this mountainside. Our necks gently glisten from sweat below wide-rimmed hats (also on Carlos’ list). The Urubamba very slowly moves away from us from below, beginning a lengthy decrescendo. It’s barely noticeable over the group’s voices, breathing, and crunching over dirt and rocks.
It smells… fresh.
The Trail coils up, hugging the Andes like a humongous mystical snake. For a short while we trot along a cliffside. I stop and look over my right shoulder. The sun seems noticeably hotter than a moment ago, and my mouth is dry . The thought of falling floods my brain and paralyzes me. I feel weak in my ankles and knees, convinced that my next step could go awry and send me flying off the mountain.
We had been walking single file, so in a quick moment everyone notices I’ve stopped. Abraham seems to be interviewing me when he inquires, “Brad, do you have vertigo?”
I tell him no. The group takes time to encourage me and gives tips. I’m told the best way to walk these parts, is to not think about the worst that can happen, and to literally look at your next step before taking it.
Just take it one at a time. Just think about your next step, I’m told. It sounds childish but ends up working. Abraham takes my backpack and starts carrying it along with his.
One heavy step after another, I carefully follow the rest of the group. Abraham is right ahead of my wife, Janina. My attention is on their conversation and the next spot to place my foot. We learn that Abraham has spent decades showing visitors Cusco, Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley. He’s probably done this specific hike a hundred times. His son used to join him, but didn’t love being a tour guide enough to make it into a career.
Eventually I notice that the mountainside is considerably less steep. In thirty minutes we are traipsing around lush, lively tropical trees and bushes at a steady pace.
Wiñaywayna
There is a waterfall where we rest and freshen up for a few moments. The water is cold enough to make one shiver, even after sweating in the sun for the past couple of hours. After this the trail expands and is formed by larger, more intricately-carved stones. The Incas constructed trails to be wider and more elegant as they approached places of importance. The impressiveness of the road matched the importance of the spot.
Despite the trail’s widening and impressive stonework, there is nothing here. We’re still surrounded by lush jungle vegetation, with mountains and the Urubamba to one side. Soon, steep steps lead us to a gigantic boulder and then around it. Each step is just tall enough for discomfort, and the group breathes a bit heavier.
Except for Abraham, who walks up each with the same amount of effort as someone hopping on the subway back home. Janina is right behind him, chatting away. I’m keeping up with everyone, feeling relatively calm.
Then from behind the boulder, a super-sized stone citadel suddenly leaps into view. Winaywayna takes over our entire field of vision and wonder. The site was hidden so well that we could hardly be more surprised if an unpredicted eclipse had happened.
This place is impressive on its own right, without the assistance of being near Machu Picchu. Its curved mountainside is perfectly terraced, and smooth steps take us to a stone temple of ten windows. Through one of the windows we can see the waterfall from earlier. Abraham explains that Winaywayna is Quechua for “Forever Young”.
It’s no surprise that this location was likely an important place for agriculture, given the presence of hundreds of preserved terraces and the proximity to Machu Picchu. We take some photos and converse a bit before walking to the nearby lunch spot.
Gringo Killer to Intipunku
After an impressive meal, the group rolls on through the jungle at a healthy pace. The path continues to widen, now flat and partly shaded. Hummingbirds flit by on all sides, and we hear them as often as see them. Soon enough we arrive to the entrance of the park of Machu Picchu, where Abraham provides our documentation to a few casual-looking rangers at a kiosk.
The Trail is even more impressive than before Winaywayna. I’m striding along strongly, once again carrying my backpack. We turn a corner, and there it is: a stupidly steep set of stairs referred to as the Gringo Killer. Our group goes up one at a time. Each person crawls with their hands at some point.
“DEATH!” our friend, Maria, blurts out upon reaching the last step.
Our porter, Jesus, walks up with the same uncomfortable look on his face as someone whose dog is about to do its business on the neighbor’s lawn. He doesn’t use his hands and isn’t breathing hard when finished. There is a platform at the top, but whether it’s to stop and appreciate the Andean landscape or recover from the ascent is uncertain. We use it for the latter.
Although the Gringo Killer isn’t the end of the hike, it announces the final approach to the archaeological site of Machu Picchu. Before we can catch our breath we are near Inti Punku, the Sun Gate. And just as Carlos promised, we’re alone.
The Sun Gate is the real entrance to Machu Picchu. It is a short, stony sentinel, sun-kissed and straddling a low mountaintop as it announces our arrival. Only now can we see the actual site of Machu Picchu below us.
The sun is a couple hours away from setting, so its rays almost perfectly fit through the gate onto Machu Picchu below. Hundreds of perfectly straight terraces surround ancient stone temples, storehouses, and homes. The thatched roofs and gold are gone, but besides that, much of the site is restored to how it was centuries ago.
Directly behind Machu Picchu is the peak of Huayna Picchu mountain. The Urubamba returns to the picture, snaking around below.
We give each other sweaty hugs, smile, and take photos.
Machu Picchu
The relaxed downhill walk to the site takes about half an hour. From there everyone takes photos in the classic spot in the middle of Machu Picchu, with the thatched-roof Funerary Hut and Huaynu Picchu mountain behind. A crowd of visitors is there, so we have to wait our turns.
The only difficulty here is sneaking a snack without the lurching llamas noticing and demanding a bite. A few smart hikers have taken their shoes off so their tired feet can spread out and enjoy the grass.
Today Machu Picchu is by far the best-preserved Incan site. Hundreds of visitors walk over its paths, steps, and through its buildings and trails, all of which have been preserved or recreated using the best knowledge available to archaeologists.
Following Incan building techniques, the site is part of the landscape. Huge boulders are carved in the shape of sacred mountains directly behind. The temple tracks the solstices, important times of the year for Incan religious and agricultural calendars. A person can explore for days here.
For me, the Trail was a timely lesson in mindfulness. Hiking one step at a time is a form of meditation; your focus is on the now and nothing else. Over a year of living in a large city during a pandemic, and my father’s recent near-death scare, had invisibly internalized a certain level of anxiety in me. Only later did I realize that overcoming my own thoughts to finish the hike was an inflection point to feeling like myself again.
I thank Abraham for carrying my backpack during the challenging vertiginous section of the Trail, and for helping me get through my own thoughts. Then I ask how he could carry both his and my backpack at the same time.
He still has sunglasses on but I can tell he’s meeting my eyes with his. Then he smiles and reminds me.
“Because I’m Inca.”
