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The Short Inca Trail – All You Need to Know

Comparisons with other hikes in the region make the short Inca Trail seem like a Cusco cheat code. You take the world-famous Trail and arrive to the Wonder of the World that is Machu Picchu in only one day. That’s compared to 4 to 8 days for other Inca Trail options. But in reality this is a separate experience, complete with its own pros and cons.

So don’t be fooled by misconceptions that this trek is easy (it’s not). Or that it is lacks breathtaking views (far from the truth). Or, honestly, that this 2-day experience is cheaper (it is, but not by much).

Is the 2-Day Inca Trail Worth It?

Let’s start with the most common question on the Short Inca Trail. And our response is: Without a doubt!

This hike does not include the extreme heights and other highlights from the regular 4-day Inca Trail; however hikers pass through impressive Incan sites, a beautifully biodiverse Andean landscape and fantastically forested hillsides on this trek to Machu Picchu.

Also just like the longer version, this hike is on the official Inca Trail and includes memorable moments like the infamous “gringo killer” stairs.

Undoubtedly the longer hikes in the Cusco region provide payoffs that this shortened version cannot. But this is a wonderful and once-in-a-lifetime experience that is more than worth it for anyone who doesn’t have the time for (or doesn’t want to do) a 4-8 day trek.

Short Inca trail stop: Wiñaywayna. Stone houses with windows and no roofs.

The Classic, 2-Day Short Inca Trail to Machu Picchu: Our Experience

3:30 AM Wake Up

Our bumpy van ride from Cusco to Ollantaytambo’s train station started at 3:45 in the morning. We arrived to the train station at around 5:30 and ate breakfast. Like most hotels in Cusco do, Niños offered us breakfasts to go, with hot coca tea and all.

Eyes half-open, we received our train tickets from our tour guide and ascended the train. It was a 1 hour descent towards tropical climes and kilometer 104. I tried to keep awake and observe the landscape as it changed but only recall a sleepily green haze.

The only way to KM 104 is by train. The narrow valley is barely wider than the river itself, which is hugged by train tracks and trails on opposite sides.

A wire bridge brought us to the starting point, a bright site brimming with lush vegetation, backpackers and guides. We took off our sweaters. It smelled of chocolate and, near a certain group hikers, enough bug spray to kill off a species.

sign marker for Short Inca trail at the beginning (km 104) — Km 104- the starting point of our hike!

Chachabamba

Within minutes the trail took us to the first Incan site, Chachabamba. Chachabamba is a small site with a few houses and a spot for religious ceremonies in the center.

Abraham, our guide, took a moment to explain Cusco’s palpable Incan pride and some history. He explained the concept of ayni. This is similar to reciprocity in English. Ayni is the habit of helping someone, with the understanding that they will do the same for you when (or if) needed. Ayni permeates the way of life in the Peruvian Andes on a daily basis, as anyone who has found themselves lost in a small pueblo can confirm.

Practicing Ayni extended even to the Inca’s imperial endeavors. Newly conquered peoples were provided with better access to food and supplies, and could keep their languages and religions, in return for not warring with the powerful Cusco potentate.

The trail really begins after Chachabamba. For the next 1-2 hours we trudged uphill on a thin, dusty strip on the mountainside. A recent fire took out the vegetation, but surrounding us were green mountainsides, so close that they seemed huddled together like campers next to a fire on a chilly night. Our friend commented on the resemblance of this part of the Andes to the Alps in Europe.

Soon the train tracks were out of sight, but the powerful Urubamba was still visible and heard. Every once in a while a train whistle reminded us that Machu Picchu was not too far.

WiñayWayna

Eventually the trail was covered by shade as we moved closer to river crossings and a waterfall. The splash of ice cold water on my face was invigorating and well-welcomed.

The Incas knew how to present. The path widens and stonework is more intricate as you approach an important spot. A dozen or so stone stairs worked our stride towards a 20-foot-tall boulder. As we moved around the imposing rock, Wiñaywayna stepped from hiding into view

Hundreds of terraces make up the entire side of a mountain. A housing complex and large sun temple sit atop everything. The circular temple’s windows align with solstices, the waterfall, and other celestial and natural points of importance.

We ate lunch right after. Our porter (who was also the chef) made guacamole, a quinoa dish, and dessert.

man walking among green terraces — Walking among the terraces of Wiñaywayna

stone, circular, roofless temple with 10 windows — Temple of 10 windows at Wiñaywayna

From The Gringo Killer To Intipunku

The second half of the short Inca Trail is mostly flat or downhill, with one breathtaking exception. The path is wide, signifying something of spiritual significance approaches.

This was my favorite part of the trail. It rolls through green cloud forest, and hummingbirds of all sizes and colors flittered around us.

The pleasantness came to an abrupt end at the bottom of an impossibly steep stairway. Our guide explained we had arrived at the “Gringo Killer“.

Hearts pounded as we climbed, at times on all fours. The Gringo Killer stairs are slightly uneven but laid strong, making for easy gripping. But the easy conversation that had been going on since lunch was gone.

At the top our friend Maria exclaimed her true feelings. Breathless, she looked at us with wide eyes and sputtered out, “DEATH!”

Behind was a yet-unseen view of the valley, the Urubamba, and a handful of archaeological sites. We saw sections of trail that we had hiked earlier, now amber cords wrapped around monstrous mountains.

Soon enough we were at the Sun Gate, Intipunku. It sat on a ridge with rays of sun swooping through, announcing the presence of Machu Picchu like golden streamers.

The short Inca Trail is no small accomplishment. We were exhausted, we hugged other, took photos and had contented smiles. Then we began the short descent to Machu Picchu.

steep stone steps with man near top — The Gringo Killer stairway! No actual gringos were harmed during the shooting of this photo ;)

Machu Picchu Pueblo

Post-descent to Machu Picchu, it was photo time! Each traveler, couple, and the group as a whole took photos at the iconic spot with Huaynu Picchu mountain in the background.

Llamas were happy to share their home, and they divided their time between letting tourists pet them and trying to nibble a bite of an unsuspecting visitor’s snack. Several lay down on the edge of a terrace. Their wool fluffed up , giving them an odd look, like fuzzy bean bag chairs with long giraffe-like necks.

We then took a bus to Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas Calientes) to shower, eat dinner, and grab an early sleep.

Machu Picchu. Terraced mountain with taller mountain in background. Stone houses. — Machu Picchu. FINALLY!

Day 2: Machu Picchu

The park service divides Machu Picchu into 4 separate circuits. This lessens the burden on each section of the site. Each circuit ensures that travelers still see every part of Machu Picchu.

We had circuit 4, a longer trail that is the lowest on the mountain. This takes you to the entrances for Huaynu Picchu and Huchuy Picchu. Our group signed up for Huaynu Picchu and beelined to the entrance upon leaving the bus.

After the Huaynu Picchu hike (which is optional) we had the tour of Machu Picchu. This is an enjoyable, educational excursion where the guide explains the importance of the site and each section.

Note: The crowds make it easy to keep moving and forget to take time to really appreciate Machu Picchu. This is a 600-year-old sacred site, still intact despite the Spanish’s best attempts to destroy anything Incan. The steps you use and of all the views have not changed in centuries.

So take your time to soak it in. Appreciate the Incas, the Pachamama, and how Machu Picchu’s shape fits into and even mirrors the landscape. Stop and wait to take that fantastic photo when you need.

Our two days over, we hopped into a van for Cusco after picking up our things from the hotel. The trip involved a quick detour to buy a snack from the market (fresh cheese and corn!). We then rested.

Short Inca Trail Need-to-Know Information

Basic Facts

What was the Inca Trail Used For?

The Inca Trail was a religious pilgrimage route. It was part of the royal road that connected the entire western half of South America– from Chile to Colombia.

While today anyone with a ticket can enter, in Incan times only societal elites had the privilege of walking certain sections of the royal road. That includes the part that we now call the Inca Trail.

How Long is the Short inca Trail?

The hike is 12 km/7.46 miles long. It takes an average of 6-7 hours to complete.

Man in sombrero looking at group of people sitting down in front of stone terraces and among thatched-roof buildings. — Gazing around Machu Picchu

Where Does the Trail Start and End?

The short Inca Trail starts at Kilometer 104, which is the first train stop after Ollantaytambo. It ends at Machu Picchu.

Stone, roofless buildings, green terraces and mountain behind. — Behind Machu Picchu sits Huaynu Picchu

Permits for the Short Inca Trail

You CANNOT get a permit (or enter) any section of the Inca Trail without a professional guide. This means you have to use a tour company, who vary somewhat in cost, comfort and quality.

Companies obtain permits for hikers upon payment.

Tour Companies

Cusco has countless tour companies. Over 200 are licensed with access to the Inca Trail. But the type and quality of experience vary, even though the hike is the same.

Choosing a quality tour operator makes all the difference. It determines how well you sleep, the food you eat, and how well the guide presents the Trail and its sites.

Another factor that many visitors don’t consider is, who benefits? Not all companies are truly local. Those that are often work on social projects with villages in the Sacred Valley.

So I recommend choosing a truly local operation, such as Andean Path Travel. The owner, David, is from Huayllabamba, a small, picturesque village and campsite on the Inca Trail.

David started Andean Path Travel in 2016 after over a decade of working in tourism. The company has only a handful of guides, all local and bilingual, and they specialize in hikes to Machu Picchu. Naturally, they offer the 2-day and 4-day Inca Trails. But they also offer alternate hikes such as Salkantay, Lares and Ausangate.

Andean Path offers tours of Cusco and the Sacred Valley, too. And they have a perfect 5/5 rating on TripAdvisor. You can email them at andeanpathtravel@gmail.com to customize your trip or book a tour at andeanpathtravel.com!

Availability

You can hike the Inca Trail eleven months out of the year (this and Machu Picchu are closed in February).

Best practice is to buy permits a 2-4 months ahead of time. Fortunately, the Short Inca Trail does not sell out as quickly as other Inca Trail options.

What Is Included (and What’s Left Out)

There is not much variety between what tour companies include with the Short Inca Trail package. At a minimum you should receive:

Permit for the Inca Trail
Tickets to enter Machu Picchu (for both days)
Train ticket and/or van service from and to your hotel in Cusco
Guide
Lunch on Day 1
Bus tickets for Machu Picchu: to Aguas Calientes on Day 1, and from/to Aguas Calientes on Day 2

Usually hiking poles are separate but offered. If your selected company does not set up a hotel in Aguas Calientes, make sure to do so quickly.

Sometimes a porter is included, too. But plan on carrying your things for the entire trek since these services are less common.

You’ll have the option to pay extra for a hike in Machu Picchu as well.

man in hat walking through stone hallway — Strolling through Wiñaywayna

Price

We paid $650 per person for a private tour of 4 people. That is at the medium-high end for the Short Inca Trail.

Having said that, anything from about $500-850/person is normal. A few luxury tourism companies charge even more.

Difficulty

This is considered a moderately difficult hike. The first half is especially tough. During these first hours you will mostly go uphill with little shade, and for miles the trail takes you across steep mountainside. The flatter, shade-rich second half balances out the trek.

Remains of stone buildings with terraces behind

How to Prepare

Packing List

The packing list for the Short Inca Trail is long, considering this is really a 1-day hike with a tour of Machu Picchu on day 2. That’s because you’ll need to prepare for the climate and also have all of your personal items for Machu Picchu, the train, and your hotel in Aguas Calientes.

Original passport and 2 copies
Travel insurance and 2 copies
Phone + charger
Camera + charger
Power adapter
Soap or hand sanitizer
Toilet paper
Mosquito repellent (recommended 30% DEET)
Anti-inflammatory tablets (such as ibuprofen)
Sunblock
Personal first-aid kit (Aspirin, Acetazolamide (Diamox), Band-Aids, anti-histamine, anti-diarrheal, re-hydration powder, any medication)
Hiking poles (if you usually use them)
Rain gear (jacket, shoes, backpack at a minimum. This is essential if you go in the rainy season from October to March)
Comfortable hiking clothes. Include a long sleeved shirt, hat, hiking pants, and a t-shirt.
Clothes for evening and sleeping in Aguas Calientes
Hiking boots that go over the ankle. Remember socks too!
Light sandals
Sunglasses
Ear Plugs. Aguas Calientes can get loud at night!
Plenty of water
Snackies
Cash- Peruvian soles and USD
Credit or debit card.

Some people bring a bathing suit for the hot springs in Aguas Calientes. However we didn’t have any time for this, and the springs get very full, very fast.

Last but certainly not least: use as light a backpack as possible! You’ll probably carry all of your stuff on the Trail.

Getting Fit

This is a daylong tour that will test anyone who is not in great shape. Get your body (and mind) used to hiking for hours while carrying a backpack.

The Short Inca Trail’s altitude is considerably lower than Cusco’s. Still, you’ll reach a height of 2,650 meters (8,692 feet). So spend 2-3 days in Cusco or the Sacred Valley to acclimatize before starting this hike.

green mountains with clouds and in the very. back, snow

Conclusion

The Short Inca Trail is the second most popular hike to Machu Picchu, and for good reason. If you don’t want to sleep outside, or don’t have the time for a multi-day hike, this is a fantastic option. And it’s stunningly beautiful and challenging enough even for types who normally backpack for 10 days at a time.

If you’ve taken this hike or are going, write a comment below! Feel free to email us at gringoinca@gmail.com if you want more information about the Trail or our experience.

Stone, thatched roof building with large rock in front and green mountains behind. Clouds.

Lima and its Creepy Catacombs: The Saint Francis Monastery

Wall made of skulls and bones. — Fun fact: This isn’t a photo of the Lima catacombs since phots aren’t allowed there!
Photo by Travis Grossen on Unsplash.

When I think of creepy places in Peru, a couple of spots immediately pop up. But if you find yourself in Lima this week, the catacombs are your best bet for Halloween haunts.

check out lima night tour options

There was the time I “slept” with a skull above my head. And apparently for a culturally acceptable reason. I say “slept” because I was scared out of my mind and actually didn’t get any sleep.

There is also Marcahuasi, a mesmerizing rock forest in the department of Lima. Marcahuasi is popular for camping and supposedly home to tons of UFO sightings.

But again, if you’re in Lima this Halloween, all you need to creep yourself out is to visit the Basilica & Convent of San Francisco. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a Spanish Baroque temple and has 7 cloisters with green courtyards.

However it’s most famous for its catacombs, home to the remains of up to 75,000 people.

The Basilica & Convent of San Fracisco de Lima was finished in 1674. Historically it was a convent (for the Franciscan order) and until 1808 was a tomb for members of the public.

So the skeletons (and spirits) there are from all sections of 15th-19th century Lima society.

How to Visit Lima’s Catacombs

The basilica & convent is located at San Francisco plaza in the Historic Center of Lima Centro. Nearby are the government palace and main plaza of Lima. So you can easily include a visit to the catacombs into any trip to Lima.

Basic Tourist Information

Open Daily 9AM to 8:45 PM

Holidays 12 noon – 8:45 PM

Entrance Fees:

S/ 15 adult, S/ 3 Minor
S/ 8 University Student (must provide ID)

Guided tours last 45 minutes and are in Spanish or English

Alternatively, consider making it creepier by taking a night tour of Lima that includes the catacombs. Several companies provide this option.

Safety Note: If you’re claustrophobic or have respiratory issues, you may want to reconsider visiting the catacombs. They’re pretty dusty and have low ventilation.

The Final Word

While researching this I discovered a new word: Ossuary. In spanish, the word is osario. Use it when you visit, because there is no other situation where you will.

Halloween’s not a big holiday in Peru. So it can be tough to find something to do. Because of that, and since the Basilica & Convent of San Fancisco is a top spot to visit anyway, consider a night tour for the year’s scariest night!

Check out their website for up to date information (Spanish only).

The Cheap Train to Machu Picchu

Thatched roof stone house on top of Machu Picchu, between large green mountains. — View of Machu Picchu from the train tracks. By McKay Savage from London, UK – Peru – Salkantay Trek 165 – CC BY 2.0, //commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=23462496

Even the “cheap” $3 train to Machu Picchu has a hierarchy. Or so the woman, a native of Cusco, explained to us as we stayed put in our assigned seats on the local train in Machu Picchu Pueblo. You see, she continued, since Machu Picchu belongs to Cusco, Cusqueños deserved the seats on the train. We were welcome to stand.

Staring directly at us and bent over slightly, hands on her hips, she hoped to avoid being on her feet during the 3 hour, 30 minute journey between Machu Picchu Pueblo and Cusco. She reminded me of a rooster ready to peck at the intruder in the chicken coop. She had on clothes from top fashion brands, not the traditional colorful fabrics and bowler hat. I figured my husband, an American who couldn’t take the local train (you need a Peruvian ID to do so), didn’t have a similar confrontation on the more expensive tourist train, on which he had just boarded. Maybe you get what you pay for.

That’s not to say Gringos don’t try to avoid paying for the exorbitant tourist train ticket to Machu Picchu. Lately the popular strategy is to take the “back way” from Cusco via Hidroelectrica. This takes more planning and adds time to a trip, but is multiple times cheaper than taking the regular Inca Trail or the trains from Cusco.

Upon arriving at Hidroelectrica, backpackers pay $40 for the one-way train ride or just walk alongside the tracks to Machu Picchu Pueblo. It’s the ultimate budget option to arrive to Machu Picchu, but you’ll find the hikers are almost all foreigners. After all, why would Peruvians take all these extra steps when it’s cheaper to just take the local train from Cusco or Ollantaytambo? It’s one example of the Peruvian state’s attempts to make our cultural heritage accessible to Peruvians as prices are driven up due to an annual increase in foreign tourists. It’s also one of the privileges of being from the land of ceviche and the Incas.

Taking the Local Train to Machu Picchu

Our day had started before 5AM with a wakeup call in our hostel. After miraculously getting my mother out of bed, we slogged out with our backpacks and hiking shoes on. The piercing chill of the dark morning in Ollantaytambo met us head-on. But that was quickly forgotten as I realized that we didn’t know where the train station was. Just as quickly, this worry was alleviated by groups of tourists, from pairs to dozens in a pack, seemingly getting out of their respective hotels all at the same time. Their backpacks, cameras, and the fact that none of them looked like locals gave it away. They scurried in the same direction like ants to a crumb. And so we followed over a hundred strangers down to Ollantaytabmo’s train station.

Two trains stationed at Ollantaytambo, with mountains in the background. — Ollantaytambo train station. By © Pierre André – Own workThis file was uploaded with Commonist., CC BY-SA 4.0, //commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=55204195

As we approached the station, small stands and kiosks run by señoras appeared on both sides of the cobblestone street. Overlooking us in the foreground was Veronica, the imposing mountain Apu not far from town. We had arrived half an hour early and so decided to buy breakfast. The options were traditional for the region; maca, quinoa oatmeal, bread with avocado, kiwicha balls, and coffee. All healthy, natural options guaranteed to boost our energy throughout the morning!

Proving I’m Peruvian

We bought a half dozen rolls of bread and hot quinoa. Soon after the train whistle pierced our morning drowsiness, and we boarded, breakfasts in hand. First my mother got on with no problem, followed by my sister. But before I stepped onto the first stair the conductor asked me if I was Peruvian- I had to show ID! I showed the man my passport and he let me on. My sister eased the shock at being questioned on my Peruvianness by pointing out all of my clothes were brought in the United States, making me stand out among my countrymen.

The train tracks were adjacent to the Urubamba River. I loved watching as the vegetation steadily changed from Andean bushes, accustomed to the cold and altitude, to tropical trees native to the cloud forest. The teensy towns and solitary farmers started to move about with the first rays of sunshine. It made me think of my previous job working alongside small villages in the Andes. My career and studies had taken me to so many places in Peru, yet this was my first time going to Machu Picchu. My chest had been bursting with excitement for weeks.

The Tourist Train

While chugging along the tracks, the train came to a stop in the middle of the journey. Coincidentally, so had a tourist train, which was on the tracks next to us. “Oohhhh”s and “ahhhh”s filled our cabin as people leaned over and peeked inside the other train. Each passenger had more space than we- in fact, some had breakfast, even laptops, on top of a table in front of them! The larger seats and overall appearance made our train seem antique.

For the rest of the trip I felt a bit fidgety, with my seat suddenly seeming hard and narrow. I actually wondered if the beautiful tourist train was worth paying 40 times more than the local train.

But before long we arrived to our final destination, the tiny town of Aguas Calientes (aka Machu Picchu Pueblo). As people disembarked from whatever train service they had used, they funneled towards the bus station for the 20 minute ride to Machu Picchu. It was so efficient and fast that the only recollection I have of Aguas Calientes is the large statue of the Inca conquerer Pachacutec, visible as we pulled in.

All Trains Lead to Machu Picchu

Photo of a blue PeruRail train car from Cusco to Machu Picchu. — By The Rambling Man – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, //commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6327163

Of course, Machu Picchu was more than worth the wait. We did the strenuous Machu Picchu Mountain hike, enabling us to view all of Machu Picchu, the Urubamba River, and Huaynu Picchu after three hours of going up stone stairs. Throughout the hike we passed tourists from dozens of countries. We all had the same experience despite the varied manners of arriving to the world wonder.

And fortunately, we didn’t have to give up our seats to the rooster woman on the return trip. My sister explained that tourism is important to Cusco, so tourists should be allowed to have seats, too. The woman finally relented. After all, she was only trying to push the limits of the privilege of having a Cusco identification card. Cusqueños travel to Machu Picchu on the local train for even less than other Peruvians: S/ 3 compared to S/ 10. Or less than a US dollar!

Experiencing Machu Picchu is a reminder of humanity’s potential. Archaeologists still argue over the true purpose of the ancient city. All of us that day were fortunate to make the trip. We arrived at the same spot and roughly the same time, despite the differences in price, privilege, or luxury of our journeys. And each of us returned to Cusco collectively richer than they had been in the morning.

(This was translated and edited from my wife’s and sister-in-law’s account. As an American, the closest I got to the local train was passing one by on my journey :).)

Start Your Visit!

Check out my guide to make your itinerary for Peru below. You might not be able to take the cheap train :), but I’ll help you have the best adventure possible!

Online Itinerary Guide for Peru

Food in Peru: The Ultimate Traveler’s Guide

Photo by Pirata Studio Film on Unsplash

*This article may contain affiliate / compensated links. For full information, please see my disclaimer here.*

Yes, Peru is a top destination for hiking, but the country’s food is an adventure in itself. For this reason food is one of the TOP reasons to visit the country. Peru is a world-class culinary destination whose recognition has shot up in the past decade and a half. In that time the number of restaurants for tourists (at all price ranges) has increased noticeably, as have the number of restaurants at the top of world rankings.

This is only for the best if you’re looking for an adventure. Peru’s culinary richness is derived from a fusion of fusions; coast, mountains and jungle have their own ingredients and dishes, which have combined with those of immigrants from Spain, Italy, Japan, China, and other countries. The result is an ever-evolving gastronomy which demonstrates the cultural heritage of Peru and is a point of pride among its citizens.

Already getting ready for your trip to Peru? See my packing list recommendations to maximize your adventure below:

15 Tasty Tips for Food in Peru

Before we get into what foods to eat in Peru, a quick cultural note: In Peru, there are set-priced meals called menus. Usually you’ll find them at lunchtime, which is the biggest meal of the day. Menus are the cheapest option and include an appetizer, main dish and a drink. I recommend getting a menu option when possible. You’ll get more food and end up paying less than for a plate straight off the actual menu (I know, the wording is confusing). Plus you’ll get to try more traditional foods! Often the first serving is a salad, soup, ceviche, or causa.

And now that we’ve established that you should definitely consider visiting Peru based on its food alone, what should you try once you’re there? Here are my top recommendations:

Seafood

Ceviche: You’ve probably heard of ceviche and perhaps tried it. Peruvian ceviche has lime juice and spicy aji peppers, and is served with sweet potato, yuca, giant corn, or plantain chips. It comes in hundred of varieties. Ingredients change with the local geography and chef’s preference, and I’ve never met one I didn’t like. But for starters, I recommend two classics: the ceviche mixto (a mix of fish and seafood, including octopus!) or ceviche de pescado (white fish).

Peruvians don’t typically eat ceviche after lunchtime. The fish is from the morning, and it’s best to eat fresh.

Arroz con mariscos: On the Peruvian coast you can find this mix of seafood, spices, and rice. It includes all types of seafood such as scallops, squid, and octopus. Some restaurants pour homemade sauce on top.

Other Traditional Peruvian Foods to Try

Tacu tacu: Ah, a personal favorite. The concept of tacu tacu is simple. Rice and beans, mashed together, are then fried. They then accompany a flank steak. This is a hearty comfort food and disturbingly hard to find sometimes. Therefore I recommend trying it when it’s available.

Arroz con Pollo: Rice with chicken sounds bland but is far from it. It is prepared by slow-cooking cilantro-infused rice, chicken and vegetables. This is a Peruvian classic and often served with spicy aji or creamy huancaina sauce as a condiment. It’s also delicious when served with duck instead of chicken(arroz con pato).

Papa a la huancaina: Huancaina is a delicious, creamy and slightly-spicy sauce. This appetizer is huancaina with potato slices. Huancaina is also an amazing condiment in general. It’s a true Peruvian obsession (you will find it in packets just like ketchup)! But the homemade version you find in restaurants is unbeatable.

Aji de gallina: Aji de gallina is shredded chicken in a slightly spicy, creamy sauce. It’s a personal favorite and is found at many restaurants and menus.

Caldo de Gallina: Chicken soup may sound boring. But this is a Peruvian comfort food and Peruvians designate it a “lavantamuertos” (raises the dead). Although it would be more accurate to say this raises the hungover. Peruvians eat this for breakfast and you can find it at nighttime too.

Causa: The best comparison for this a caserole. Causa is two layers of mashed potatoes stuffed with chicken, tuna or another filling in-between. This is a popular appetizer in menus, especially in Lima.

Lomo Saltado: Easily THE most popular Peruvian dish among my friends. Lomo saltado is stir-fried beef with aji pepper, vegetables and either rice or fries. This dish always hits the spot- even my vegetarian friends agree!

Specialties

Pollo a la brasa: Oh man. Find a polleria for this delicious Peruvian rotisserie chicken. You can buy the whole chicken or a half, quarter, and sometimes eighth (why even bother?!). It comes with 2-3 sides such as fries, salad, or yuca.

Pachamanca: In traditional towns, Pachamanca is more of an event than a food. During the harvest, villagers prepare the Pachamanca and share the food afterward. They cook meat over hot rocks, then cover it with herbs and dirt to create a natural oven. Pachamanca is Quechua for “pot of the earth”. You’ll find Pachamanca in some restaurants and might be shocked at the price, but know it is due to the amount of time put into the meal.

Peruvians today also cook Pachamanca in an actual pot. The ingredients change according to the geographical area you are in, but generally include at least one meat, potatoes, and even tamales or lima beans. The herbs usually include huacatay, which is Peruvian black mint.

Rocoto Relleno: This is the famous dish of the southern city of Arequipa. Rocoto is a spicy pepper that is part of ceviche and other dishes. However the rocoto should not be spicy at all in this dish. The pepper is stuffed with beef, cheese, vegetables and spices, and then baked.

If You’re Going to the Jungle…

Juanes: This is almost impossible to find outside the jungle. Juanes are meat (usually chicken), rice, eggs, olives, and spices, cooked in banana leaves. You unwrap the leaves, and the fresh deliciousness hits you in the face. And it’s just perfect.

Tacacho: Here’s another food found principally in the jungle. Mashed plantains are mixed with pork and shaped into a ball. This is a breakfast food. It normally comes with slabs of pork called cecina and coffee.

What About Desserts?

Of course, Peru also has a ton of great desserts. Alfajores are cookies filled with sweet dulce de leche (caramel). They are everywhere. In addition, I recommend every lover of ice cream to try the lucuma flavor. Lucuma is a Peruvian fruit that makes for a refreshing ice cream, especially when paired with chocolate.

Alfajores
Photo by Gal Cohen on Unsplash

The most famous regional dessert is suspiroa la limena. Traditional suspiro is dulce de leche topped with meringue. It’s popular in Lima.

What About Vegetarians?

There are not many traditional Peruvian vegetarian dishes, but locro and sopa de quinoa are two of my favorites. Locro is a squash stew with vegetables and queso fresco. And sopa de quinoa is, as the name implies, quinoa soup. Finally, there is sopa de queso. This soup has milk, noodles, cheese and spices. In high-tourist areas and major cities there are some vegetarian-friendly establishments, but they are still pretty scarce.

Street Food in Peru

There are two people in this world: those who love street food, and those who simply haven’t tried the right street food yet. I was in the latter group until Peru saved me. Beef heart kabobs named anitcucho, fried potato stuffed with meat called papa rellena, and tamales are my favorites. Fried cuy (giant guinea pig) on a stick is another popular one. The only street food to avoid is ceviche; you have no idea how fresh it is and do NOT want to experience that adventure. If you’re in Lima, consider Chinatown (barrio chino) for unique Asian-Peruvian street food options.

What to Drink in Peru

What to drink with all this delicious food? Inca Kola is Peru’s own soda that tastes roughly like birthday cake and is very addicting (hello, sugar high!). There are also tons of fruit juices thanks to Peru’s jungle and the variety of fruits it provides. I personally love camu-camu.

Pisco is Peru’s flagship spirit and the frothy Pisco sour is almost synonymous with the grape brandy. Pisco sours are made with Pisco, lime, bitters, and egg whites. I also like the passion fruit version, named Maracuya sour. And Chicanos are simply Pisco with lime and ginger ale; easy to make and easier to drink!

Peru’s beer scene has exploded in the past decade. Cusquena is the best of the famous beers, but almost every region has its own artisanal beer options today.

For the Adventurous Eaters…

Cuy, giant giunea pig, is a Peruvian delicacy. Peruvians serve it in one of three ways. “Chactado” is more common and is the cuy-on-a-stick version. Another version is grilled cuy served with rice and salad. But the best cuy is the most difficult to find: picante de cuy. In this dish, grilled cuy is served with rice and a peanut sauce. I’ve never loved cuy, but that peanut sauce is amazing.

Some regions have other delicacies that are unfamiliar to the traditional Western palate. Insects, including ants, are the most common. This is found in the jungle but you’ll also find ant snacks in places such as Chachapoyas in the north. It’s surprisingly good!

Now What?

Of course, to really experience Peruvian food you have to go to Peru. I designed Gringo Inca to help in your travels. This includes deciding where to go, how to budget your trip, staying safe while abroad, and what to include in your packing list (boots? backpack?).

What Peruvian foods have you tried, or are excited to try? Comment below for questions or tips for fellow travelers.