Off The Beaten Track Peru- 8 Places to Explore

sacred valley where to stay peru cusco

By now, we don’t need to explain what makes Machu Picchu and Cusco so special (and therefore so popular). But do you wonder what the area was like before it became a tourist epicenter?

The attraction of traveling off the beaten track is that the experience may feel more authentic, and certainly more adventurous. But you must be flexible. Transportation, lodging, and locals’ sense of time (and urgency) may not match those of tourist hotspots.

However, if you settle in and don’t fight sometimes-frustrating phenomena like Peruvian time (hora peruana), exploring the interior will result in a wonderfully fulfilling adventure. The people enhance it; from cities to tiny hamlets, Peruvians are generous, grateful, and happy to help. And they are always sure to inform you which foods you still need to try.

Here we break down 8 spots to visit off the beaten track in Peru by region (Northern, Central, and Southern Peru).

Northern Peru

This is Peru’s least-visited region, although it does have well-trodden destinations such as Mancora and Chachapoyas. Northern Peru claims to have the country’s best food and owns the title of world’s greatest ceviche (they credit the local limes). Here the coast is greener, the history of the Inca’s rivals reverberates, and you won’t ever feel that you’re being funneled through a tourist trap.

Chiclayo

Not the city per se, although its witches market is noteworthy. There are plenty of treasures for travelers within an hour of town. The museum of the Royal Tombs of Sipan mesmerizes with undisturbed remains of Northern Peru’s ancient, gold-festooned rulers. The pyramids of Túcume will wake up your inner archaeologist as well.

For water sports, try Pimentel or Puerto Eten. Finally, the market area at Monsefú has locally-made crafts (plus hands-down the best ceviche I’ve ever had).

Chiclayo is a short flight or a long bus ride (14 hours) from Lima.

Playa Lobitos

Even the snobbiest beach critics have to love Lobitos’ wonderful weather and water. Despite being known for solid surf breaks, Lobitos isn’t overcrowded (unlike nearby Mancora). Surfing isn’t the only water activity, though, and make sure to try that famous Northern Peruvian ceviche!

Take a 1hr, 50 minute flight from Lima to nearby Talara or a 2-3 hour car from the city of Piura.

Tarapoto

This medium-sized city (pop. 180,000) is the largest in jungle-laden San Martin department. Adventure into the Amazon rain forest, hike to countless waterfalls, and even check out a Medieval castle in nearby Lamas. There are private conservation areas, such as Cordillera Escalera, which protect primary forest and provide direct sources of income for locals, too.

Tarapoto is a 1-hour flight from Lima. Or if you’re already in Northern Peru, take a bus from Chachapoyas (8 hours).

Central Peru

Pretty much any visit to Peru involves Lima, but the rest of Central Peru is virtually ignored. It’s true that the “Gringo Trail” has grown a new offshoot, going south of Lima to the oasis of Lunahuaná and the Nazca lines. But this region is more than its coastal treasures. You can hike in an UNESCO biosphere reserve, mountaineer Peru’s tallest peaks, and stay in traditional Quechua towns. Adventure is just an overnight buscama away!

Huaraz

Literally some of Peru’s (and the world’s) best hikes are near Huaraz. The 4-day Santa Cruz and longer Huayhuash treks are the most famous. But there are plenty of fascinating day hikes too, such as to Laguna 69. The glaciers are popular for mountaineering as well.

This small city sits at 3,052 meters (about 10,000 feet) above sea level. So make sure to acclimate to the altitude before hiking!

Buses leave throughout the day and night from Lima to Huaraz for the 8-hour journey.

Lunahuana

Rafting is the top activity in Lunahuaná, an oasis that borders the Cañete River in the dry foothills outside Lima. A pleasant climate, fresh air and several restaurants seal the deal.

The trip is only 3 hours if you hire a private car or sign up for a tour. The town sits on the road for the Nor-Yauyos Cochas Landscape Reserve. This Reserve is home to traditional villages, hikes to little-visited archaeological sites, and captivating cascades.

Oxapampa

Austrian immigrants arrived here in the 1800s, and they brought their architecture (and beer). Locals may not wear lederhosen or speak German anymore, but the fun sensation of being in tropical Tyrol lingers.

The region is an UNESCO biosphere reserve, and it has the wildlife and adventures of one. Hiking and birdwatching for Peru’s national bird, the cock-of-the-rock, is possible in Yanachaga-Chemmillen National Park. Several conservation areas protect the selva alta ecosystems. You can stay at some, including Ulcumano with its private lodges, canopy bridges, and ziplines!

Weather is springlike most of the year, but it’s colder in the rainy season (November-March). Buses leave throughout the day and night from Lima. It’s an 8-10 hour trip.  

San Bartolo

This splendid horseshoe-shaped beach is famous for its surf breaks. Bonus: bodysurfers can usually catch waves here, too. Alternatively, chowing down some seafood on a hillside restaurant adjacent to the shore provides for a chill lunch. Add a couple beers to the mix, and you’ve got an afternoon.

San Bartolo is only a couple hours south of Lima, and several bus companies take you there.

Southern Peru

With Machu Picchu and Cusco, Southern Peru is by far the most popular region for visitors. Even smaller attractions in the Sacred Valley are peddled on tour websites nowadays. But explore further out and the traditional ways of life, warm villagers, and miraculously solitary sites may be your trip’s highlights.

For people staying closer to the hotspots, take an alternative Inca Trail for an off-the-beaten track Peru option. Or take in an Amazonian adventure in Tambopata, starting with a barely-one-hour flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado.

Cotahuasi canyon

Colca Canyon’s less-famous brother has fantastic hiking, rafting, and cultural immersion opportunities. The Cotahuasi River has class IV and V rapids, while the trekking is world-class due to the canyon’s depth of 11,595 feet (3,534 meters). Farmers herd llamas and plant quinoa and other traditional Andean crops. And you’ll be certain to have an Incan or pre-Incan archaeological site all to your own.

Stay in the town of Cotahuasi or bring camping equipment to stay at the Cotahuasi Sub-basin Landscape Reserve. Cotahuasi is an 8 hour bus ride from Arequipa, Peru’s second-largest city.

Off the Beaten Track Peru: Conclusion

At the size of 3 Californias, Peru holds too many overlooked treasures to be listed. This article is just meant to provide a starting point, and each of the locations provides its own off-the-beaten path flavor. I suggest adding them to one of our own curated itineraries for Northern, Central or Southern Peru. Or if. you’re getting started, check out our guide for visiting Peru.

Travel Guide Machu Picchu- What to Know for Visiting in 2022

travel guide Machu Picchu

“Nobody goes there anymore. It’s too crowded.” Yogi Berra was probably talking about Machu Picchu with this quote. He probably also said the internet doesn’t need another travel guide for Machu Picchu. But, joke’s on him!

This is by far the biggest attraction for international tourists in Peru. For visitors it is a wondrously stunning work of ancient architecture, a spiritual refuge for reflection, or an inspiring example of man living with nature. Sometimes it’s all three.

Travel Guide for Machu Picchu: Basic Info

History

Windows within windows!

Most likely, Machu Picchu was built in the 15th century and served as a refuge to the great Incan leader Pachacutec. It was home to an entire community which mysteriously abandoned the city before the arrival of the Spanish. The jungle quickly enveloped the site and hid it from the destructive “conquistadores“.

Hiram Bingham arrived to Machu Picchu in 1911, during a time of a nascent indigenous movement in Peru and a worldwide obsession with archaeological artifacts. This stellar timing eventually resulted in Machu Picchu being the best-preserved example of Incan architecture, with lots of controversy along the way.

In 1983 UNESCO declared Machu Picchu a World Heritage Site, and in 2007 it was voted one of the seven Wonders of the New World.

Today up to 2,500 people visit every day, and the site is a powerful source of Peruvian pride and indigenous identity.

The Major Attraction

Just lookin’ around
The Watchman’s Hut, with Huaynu Picchu behind it.

Some places are ultra famous for a reason. Machu Picchu is one of them. The awe-inspiring architecture fits perfectly into the lush landscape. It’s a true challenge – maybe impossible – to take a bad photo.

The site is home to the largest-known “Intihuatana”(a ritual sun stone) and multiple temples. Because of this, Machu Picchu provides in-person lessons in Incan cosmology and belief systems.

A tour of the site takes a couple of hours and shows you the temples, agricultural areas, and living quarters. Add-ons allow you to hike up the adjacent mountains, Huaynu Picchu, Huchuy Picchu, or Machu Picchu Mountain. These are less crowded, unique experiences that provide breathtaking views.

They are also strenuous, vertigo-inducing hikes, as you can see in these photos of our friends climbing Huaynu Picchu:

Make sure to fit enough time at Machu Picchu if you choose one of these hikes. Below is an average of how long visitors need to complete each:

  • Huchuy Picchu: 1-2 hours
  • Huaynu Picchu: 2-3 hours
  • Machu Picchu Mountain: 4 hours

To summarize, Machu Picchu provides visitors unbeatable views, adrenaline-charging adventures, and lessons in ancient ingenuity. These all make the trip to Machu Picchu more than worth it, whether it’s by train from Cusco or a multi-day hike.

Machu Picchu’s Future

Machu Picchu is this guy’s house.

The site is actually one section of a national park, most of which is unaccessible to visitors. The park conserves the beautiful cloud forest, which is home to super cool animals like the spectacled bear.

However there has been concern that the number of daily tourists is too high and can be putting the site in danger of eventual collapse. Yet as of now, UNESCO has kept Machu Picchu off of its list of sites in danger.

Due to environmental concerns, you can’t bring plastic water bottles. Reusable bottles are fine, as are small snacks that are in wrappers. Make sure to bring enough of both of these since prices at the cafe next to Machu Picchu are exorbitant. (Food and water are not sold inside Machu Picchu).

Another note: your backpack cannot be over 5 kilos (just over 10 lbs).

Finally, no smoking is allowed. True story, I once saw someone get kicked out of the site because she refused to put out a cigarette. Machu Picchu is worth not having a smoke for a few hours!

How to Get Tickets

There is only ONE official site that sells tickets to Machu Picchu, run by Peru’s Ministry of Culture. Other places buy a certain number from the Ministry ahead of time, and it’s OK to buy from them too.

Make sure to buy in advance and to decide if you want an add-on hike (read about Huaynu Picchu, Huchuy Picchu, and Machu Picchu Mountain here).

Tickets for the Inca Trail and other tours include the entrance for Machu Picchu as well. Make sure to confirm this with your tour operator.

Our guide, Abraham, at the tippy top of Huaynu Picchu!

How to Get There

The Basics

First, you have to get to Cusco, a long bus ride or a quick plane trip from a Lima.

The town closest to Machu Picchu is called both Aguascalientes and Machu Picchu Pueblo. It is only accessible by rail. You can take the 4-hour trip from Cuzco.

Another option is to travel from Urubamba or Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley, which take 2.5 and 2 hours, respectively.

From Aguascalientes, buses leave every 15 minutes from 5:30 AM to 3 PM for the 20-minute trip to Machu Picchu. Buy a bus ticket at least one day earlier if you can! You also can walk the steep, hour-ish hike alongside the road instead.

Most packages for the Inca Trail (including its alternatives) include entrance to Machu Picchu, saving you some time and possible headaches.

The Back Way

An INSANELY affordable way to get there is via Santa Theresa. This takes about a day longer and is certainly a more rugged route, but it has gained in popularity.

Just take a bus from Cusco to Santa Theresa. This will take about 4 hours. The next day, buy a train ticket at nearby Hidroelectrica for the 40-minute ride to Aguas Calientes.

Another option is to walk next the tracks. This takes 2-3 hours to arrive at Aguas Calientes. Enjoy the lush tropical vegetation, and bring water :)

Train arriving to/leaving Aguas Calientes

Top Tips

  • Plan at least 3 hours’ time to see the site itself. This includes a tour and time to explore. Keep in mind the buses take about 20 minutes to return to Machu Picchu Pueblo, and the bus line can get long.
  • Set aside a good 2-3 hours for Huaynu Picchu and 3-4 for Machu Picchu Mountain. Huchuy Picchu takes roughly 1-2 hours to complete.
  • Not sure which one to take? We recommend Huaynu Picchu! It’s a tough, adrenaline-filled 2-hour hike that you will never forget.
  • It’s a good idea to pay for a guided tour. These are local tour guides and know the area inside and out.
  • Take time to get away from any crowds and just take it all in. This is truly a magical place, but it’s temptingly easy to just make a passing visit and check it off a bucket list. Avoid that :)
  • Hold on to your snacks! Llamas are very used to tourists and WILL try to eat food from your hand.
stone architecture
The residential area of Machu Picchu. These homes had thatched roofs when they were in use.
The rounded Temple of the Sun was used by the Incas for paying homage to the Sun.
A close-up of the structures shows the Incas built with no mortar! The blocks fit perfectly into each other.

When to Go

First of all, you can visit Machu Picchu and have an amazing experience 365 days of the year. The most popular months to visit are during the dry “Andean summer”, June through August.

Having said that, the best months to visit Machu Picchu are at the beginning and end of the rainy season. That’s because the weather is nice and the crowds aren’t huge. These months are April, May, September and October.

Still, many people enjoy the less-crowded months of the rainy season, at the risk of getting caught in a downpour. The rainy season lasts from November through March. Another plus is, hotels and tours offer discounts at these times.

*And remember the Inca Trail is closed for the entire month of February*

We took a photo of Abraham taking a classic photo of our friends!
View from Machu Picchu of the mountains across the Urubamba River.

The Weather at Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu is a cloud forest ecosystem. These are tropical, warm and wet areas. The day gets warm and sunny yet nighttime can be surprisingly cold. Year-round highs are in the 60s Fahrenheit (20 C) and lows in the 30-40s (0-8 C).

Conclusion

Pretty much every traveler blogger has a Travel Guide for Machu Picchu article. But you chose ours, so thanks!

It’s become cliche to say Machu Picchu is too crowded and that you enjoyed (fill in place name here) more. But if you do it right, you’ll at least taste the unique magic of the once-lost city of the Incas.

So take time to get there and stay a while when you finally do arrive. We recommend staying at least one night in Aguascalientes so you don’t rush through the main attraction.

Have you been to Machu Picchu? Let us know your experience below!

Or, wanna see an example of the PERFECT itinerary that includes Machu Picchu? Check out our Peru Bucket List trip here!

handsome man jumping off mountain
Me leaping on the Machu Picchu Mountain hike.

Until next time!

Basic Health Tips to Visit Peru

empty pill bottles on shelf

While I’m all about jumping on the next plane to a random place with no plans, some things are worth doing in advance. This is especially for a country full of outdoor adventure activities like Peru. I talked to Dr. Suni Su, who gave excellent health tips to visit Peru. Check out what we discussed.

See A Doctor Before You Go

Make sure you’re good to go health-wise by visiting your primary care doctor or a travel clinic. You should provide them with at least a rough itinerary and with the type of trip in mind. Backpackers will have different risks than someone seeking the 5-star luxury treatment (they will also have more fun :) ).

brown and white bear plush toy

The doctor will make sure you’re updated with all relevant vaccines. For Peru this generally means Hepatitis A/B, Influenza, Typhoid, Rabies, and Yellow Fever.

Where You Go Matters

The medications recommended to you will also depend on where you go in Peru. For example, Malaria is common in parts of the jungle but not in the coast or Andes.

And altitude sickness is another issue. This doesn’t appear until you reach about 10,000 feet (or 3,000 meters) above sea level. Although symptoms vary between people (and some people have none at all), it can be dangerous.

The absolute best way to deal with altitude sickness is to prevent it. Ask your doctor for a medication if you may travel at high altitudes (think Cusco, Machu Picchu, or other areas of the Andes like Chachapoyas).

And consider lower-altitude locations first, working you way up. For example, if you visit Southern Peru, you could visit Arequipa and then the Sacred Valley before staying in Cusco and doing the Inca Trail.

mist coming over stone structures with green peak in background. Machu Picchu
Get to Machu Picchu literally headache free :)

If you are on any medication currently, you will need to ask it is allowed in Peru.

It’s also smart to look up the medical clinics in the area(s) you visit. If in Lima you can call 116 for emergencies.

Do I Need Travel Insurance?

Short answer: yes! Long answer: read the fine print. Does the plan you’re considering cover all the activities you may do?

In the USA many insurance plans already include travel. But you will have to do your research on that too, since plans vary so much.

Conclusion

Stack of books with orange cat behind
Seeing his vet is always part of James’ travel prep

Lastly, relax and have fun! The vast majority of people I talk to have no or minimal health issues when visiting Peru. And as you see, these health tips to visit Peru are pretty simple and easy to follow. You’ll be ready for a safe and epic adventure with a couple easy, proactive steps.

Responsible Tour Operators- How do we Find Them?

very handsome man with book bag jumping and clicking heels
Can you travel, connect with other cultures, and be part of conserving local environments? All at the same time? Yes, yes you can! Woohoo!!

There are different ways to describe what I call responsible tourism. Some say sustainable tourism, others ethical tourism, for example. Others use the term authentic tourism. Similarly, when we say we only recommend and use responsible tour operators, this may cause confusion.

To start off, these are all part of the same idea: traveling in a way that is respectful to local people and the environment, and not in a way that takes advantage of people in different economic situations. 

Searching for Responsible Tour Operators

I look for three things before using or recommending a tour operator. First, I figure out where their owners are based. Community or locally-owned operations tend to have more at stake in making tourism sustainable than a large chain. 

Second, I see if there is anything they are doing above and beyond standard practice. This varies by location. So you can imagine lots of research goes into this second point. Sometimes I find really amazing places like an ecolodge that grows its own food or a hostel made of 100% recycled materials.

Other times small things make a place stand out. One example is a hotel in Lima that provides clean water for guests to fill up their reusable bottles. In a desert city like Lima, anything that contributes to fewer one-use plastic bottles is worthy of my time and money.

Speaking of money, the third thing I look at is the price. I get immediately suspicious of the cheapest operators and hotels (which doesn’t mean they are necessarily bad).

mist coming over stone structures with green peak in background. Machu Picchu. Responsible tour operators are the best way to get here :)
Use an Inca Trail operator that pays living wages to their porters. That way, we all win!!

This is especially true for finding responsible tour operators on the Inca Trail, where porters and guides are not guaranteed good salaries. This is despite their incredibly deep knowledge and special skill set! If a price is too good to believe compared to other mid-range and lower-mid range options, that is a sign someone is taking advantage of an employee.

These three rules are not hard and fast. For example, many hotels have low rates since they are family run operations and so the employees, as the owners, make 100% of the profit. So, it depends, and much more research is needed before I use a service or recommend it.

But these are what I have in mind when making reservations of my own and when recommending something on Gringo Inca. This way we can ensure the local environment and economy are healthy and hopefully even strengthened by our travels.

Be Part of the Best Trend- Earth-Friendly Tourism!

You can check out our recommendations for the Inca Trail and where to stay in Peru to have a responsible trip yourself. Better yet, email us at gringoinca.com to create an adventure you can feel good about!

Warmest wishes~ Brad

Surf in Peru and Protect the Environment at the Same Time!

Yes, you read that right. Surf in Peru to do something fun AND chip in to save Peru’s coasts. Peru’s surfers are a small group that has a large voice in environmental activism. Because of their achievements, you can help protect the environment by surfing.

How is this possible? Groups like Conservamos Por Naturaleza decided to protect waves. Peru has some of the longest left-breaking waves in the world, so they really are worth saving. 

How DO they protect the waves? Essentially, by making sure nothing is done to change the shape and length of a wave. This means pushing back against industrial fishing and certain development projects. So protecting a wave also protects wildlife and shoreline. Because of their work, Peru is the first country to have protected a wave!

How can You Be a Part?

Like many environmental causes, this one is always under threat by other interests. It can be particularly tough to protect a wave in Peru since only a small percentage of Peruvians actually surf. This is slowly changing in the country that invented the sport. 

But as a tourist your money speaks. So if you’re a serious surfer or just starting, consider spending some time to rent a board, take lessons, or to contribute in another manner to the surf scene.

Current beaches with protected waves include famous spots like Huanchaco and Cerro Azul near Lima (the very same from the Beach Boys song). Another is Chicama, the world record holder for the longest left leaning wave!

orange-red sunset over ocean with small waves. surf in peru!
Surf ’til sunset and know you made the right choice :)

Check out the documentary A La Mar to learn more about saving waves! You can also donate to the cause here at //hazlaportuola.pe/en.

And reach out to us at gringoinca@gmail.com to create your personalized, wave-saving itinerary to surf in Peru :) 

Transportation in Peru: How to Get Around

red and white bus- transportation in peru

“Transportation in Peru” is one of the most-Googled phrases by visitors to the country, and this is for a good reason. Traffic in the city is INSANE, and roads in the interior are generally not safe for foreign drivers.

Fortunately there are safe, sometimes even comfortable, public transportation options. These depend on your specific location in Peru, so I broke this down into two categories: transportation between cities, and transportation within cities.

How to Get Around in Peru

City-to-City Transportation

Bus

Buses are by far the most popular way to travel in Peru. The great thing is, most companies offer a 180-degree reclining option, or “buscama“. And the food and drink options (included) tend to be decent.

The obvious downside is trip length. For example, if you only have 2 weeks you probably won’t want to spend a full day to get to Cusco. And those long trips can cost almost as much as a plane ticket.

Safety is another issue. Narrow roads with no guardrail and bandits at night are common dangers, so use a reputable bus provider. Well-known companies for safety are Cruz del Sur, Movil and Peru Hop.

Your options narrow dramatically when off the tourist trail. Be prepared to travel in a small bus with no amenities (like the one pictured at the beginning of this article). This doesn’t mean the trip is dangerous or scary; ask locals for tips if you’re worried about a particular means of transportation.

Plane

This is the most-used form of transportation in Peru by tourists. Peru is like anywhere- plane rides are shorter, more expensive, and safer than other options. Most domestic plane rides are under 3 hours.

The good news is that you can find round-trip tickets for under $100. These prices are offered by cut-rate airlines, but Avianca and Latam offer good rates at times.

Train

There are not many trains in Peru but they provide cool, unique options:

  • Arica to Chile: Ride this for the experience! Arica isn’t very touristy, so this train is a quirky addition to any trip.
  • Cusco (or Sacred Valley) to Machu Picchu: Inca Rail and Peru Rail offer the most popular (and fastest) way to arrive to Machu Picchu. Peruvians can take the inexpensive local train. Peru Rail also offers a first-class service to Puno.
  • Huancavelica-Huancayo: The amazingly-named “Tren Macho” is an affordable option that Peruvians take through the Central Andes. Get a ticket that includes a lunch buffet!
  • Lima-Huancayo: This is a daylong ride to the Central Andes and one of the highest passenger train services in the world. It’s beautiful, and the ride is the attraction more than the destination. However the train only goes once a month and is pretty pricey.

Boat

Multi-day boat trip schedules depend on the weather and logistics, and are only for transportation in the jungle. The most popular is any variation of the trip to Iquitos.

Moving in the City

How you get around Peruvian cities depends greatly on the city. But these are the most common forms:

  • App: Uber, DiDi and Cabify are considered the best. Since the apps track where you are, it’s safer than hailing a random taxi from the street.
  • Bus: This is the cheapest way to get around. I always check with hotel staff or someone knowledgeable to make sure I get on the right bus beforehand. Also ask how long the trip will take (it can take a LOT longer than a taxi). If the bus is crowded be aware of your belongings. Lima and other cities have introduced electric buses, making this a cleaner form of travel.
  • “Moto”: Oh man. My favorite way to travel in town is by moto-taxi! These resemble the tuk-tuks of Southeast Asia. They are generally cheaper than a taxi but more expensive (and faster) than a bus.
  • Taxi: Of course, you can always just hail a taxi from the street. Make sure it and the driver pass the “eye test” for safety and be ready to haggle.

Transportation in Peru: Conclusion

Hopefully this article answered your questions on getting around in Peru. Please write any questions below!

If you’re ready to go to Peru check out a sample itinerary to get started :)