Reasons to Visit Gocta Waterfall
Don’t Miss How to Visit!
Depending on who you talk to, the waterfall of Gocta in Amazonas, Peru is anything from the 3rd to 17th tallest in the world. The strange thing about this is that Gocta, locally known as “La Chorrera”, is considered the same height by most accounts. The waterfall is composed of two cataracts that together measure 771 meters (2,530 feet). Adding to the mystery, other scientific data of the area is pretty easy to find and not under debate. For example, nearby Yumbilla Falls, officially recorded in 2007, doesn’t suffer from a similar controversy. To visit Gocta, one treks through a cloud forest ecosystem for a few hours, where they can spot 21 other, smaller waterfalls in addition to 110+ species of birds, monkeys, and even the elusive spectacled bear.
This biodiverse area is where frigid Andean waters gush down steep mountainsides, unstoppable on the way to their destination in the Amazon rainforest. The area is almost as wealthy in wildlife and waterfalls as the capital, Lima, is in horn-blaring taxi drivers. Obviously, we had to make the hike to the enigmatic Gocta and see this mysterious waterfall in person.
Dust before Thunder
We had to take a bus to the town of Cocachimba from our hotel in Chachapoyas in order to start the hike. An unpainted school bus picked us up at 8am, uncharacteristically punctual for Peru. From there it was an hour of going downhill, into warmer, more tropical, mosquito-filled climates.
Throughout the hike from Cocachimba you can hear Gocta beckoning you. The waterfall is visible from town, incredible considering that Gocta wasn’t officially recorded until 2002. At the beginning of the hike you can barely hear the whisper of the falls. The morning breeze is relatively cool, tropical vegetation covers the ground, and women sell fresh juice for S/ 1. It’s very pleasant.
After an hour or two of going over wooden bridges, stepping over leaves, and hearing the chirps of exotic birds, the noise of Gocta is undeniable. But now the falls hide from view- it’s like you’re playing hide and seek with the colossal cataract. This is another enigma of Gocta- the closer one gets, the less likely it seems to be able to spot it.
The last twenty minutes were the most difficult. We were under a hot sun and anxious to arrive at the falls after so many games of peek-a-boo. The vegetation stopped covering the path, which was now dry. We could spot groups of tourists ahead simply from the dust clouds. At one point Gocta seemed to quit hiding from us, until we took another curve around the mountain and it again disappeared. This time the accordion of time stretched out, with each step reminding us of the heat and sun. I slightly worried about returning since my water source was under half-full.
Then, just as magically as it left us, Gocta reappeared, with its mist creating a thundering force that drowned out conversation. At 200 ft (65 meters out) the falls sprayed our glasses and blurred our vision. It was raining sideways! I had to yell to ask my wife and her sister if they wanted to get closer. They shook their heads no.
But I had to go. I wanted to get as close as possible to this recently discovered secret of Amazonas. This was a waterfall unknown to the outside world less than twenty years ago. Still today there weren’t many tourists on the path. We were part of a lucky few.
The first dozen steps were fairly easy. Gocta is surrounded by rocks, and at about 75 feet (23 meters) out my boot slipped slightly. Soon it was like trudging through a rainstorm on top of a perilous slip-and-slide. I could see the mist ahead was getting more blurry, so I took off my glasses. It didn’t help. At 50 feet (15 meters) I stopped, having slipped two more times despite carefully planning each step. Gocta was not going to permit me to get closer, much less enter the pool underneath the falls.
Ahead was only mist and thunder. I stood for a minute and replenished my weariness in Gocta’s cold, energizing waters. I was no longer thirsty or tired. A smile involuntarily crept across my face. We made it.
Chuchuhuasi
The walk back was as dry and hot as expected, even though I started off soaking wet. I made it back relatively quickly, in under 3 hours. My mind was set on lunch.
I wasn’t disappointed. The soup in Cocachimba was one of the most replenishing meals of my life. The three of us shared a table with an older man and his daughter, who we recognized from the busride earlier.
The restaurant was pretty standard for rural Peru; cement floors, a chalkboard announcing the day’s menu with 5 set options, and Inka Cola sharing shelves with Coke. Most of the decorations were photos taken from the annual calendars of Cocachimba. Gocta featured prominently in many of the photos, giving the impression that the cataract had been world famous for decades.
The chalkboard had a dish of which I had never heard: Chuchuhuasi. I asked the old man what this was. The old Japanese-Peruvian smiled widely, creases deepening around his eyes and in his forehead. The man, who rode a horse on the trail to Gocta, made a noticeable effort to stand up and yell over another table to order 2 chuchuhuasis. I was so hungry that I didn’t mind eating more, considering how delicious the meal must be.
Before I got to ask what it was, two shot glasses were on the table. The man lifted one, matching his dark-brown eyes with mine. “Chuchuhuasi!” he exclaimed. I lifted my glass, careful not to spill the transparent liquid, as it was close to the brim. It went down in one shot, tasting vaguely like an herbal tea before the overwhelming aftertaste of moonshine. I felt instantly buzzed. The old man was ecstatic. Afterwards he told my wife chuchuhuasi is an aphrodisiac. He found this hilarious.
As our trip ended, I got up from our table and closed the menu to give to the waitress. Only then did I notice the restaurant’s claim to fame: “Cocachimba, hogar de la catarata mas alta del mundo!” Cocachimba, home to the world’s tallest waterfall.
At least in Cocachimba, the mystery is settled.
How to Get to Gocta Waterfall
Transportation
To get to Gocta you first have to go to Chachapoyas, the cobblestoned capital of Amazonas. “Chacha” is a 1 hour flight from Lima. Cruz del Sur and Movil provide bus services, too:
| Destination | Trip Length | Cost* |
| Chiclayo | 9 hr | S/ 56-76 |
| Lima | 22-23 hr | S/ 130-165 |
| Trujillo | 12-14 hr | S/ 65-85 |
Smaller buses and share cars (collectivos) leave from Cajamarca (12 hr) and Tarapoto (8 hr), too.
Any tour agency will take you to Gocta from Chachapoyas. Normally you make a reservation the day before, and they pick you up the next morning.
You can also take a bus combi from the terminal terrestre in the morning. Go to Puente Cocahuaico, a one hour ride that costs S/ 5. From there take a mototaxi to Cocachimba to see the bottom of Gocta, or to San Pablo to hike to the first cataract. Each hike takes roughly 6 hours roundtrip. The mototaxi will cost S/ 10-15.
Note: One US Dollar is equal to about 3 Peruvian soles.
Price
The entrance to the hike costs S/ 20.
Where to Stay
You can usually find triple in Cocachimba or San Pablo for roughly S/ 50. If you go from June through August, consider booking ahead of time since this is Peru’s high season for tourism.
If you stay in Chachapoyas like we did, check out Chachapoyas Backpackers.
Next Steps
Check out my tips for getting ready for your trip to Peru. It’s never too early to starting planning :)
Leave a comment if you’ve been to Gocta waterfall or are interested in going!
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Gracias y buen viaje!!!!
