The Peru Ecolodge that Made Our Trip Complete: Ulcumano!

cloudy green mountain
Clouds seem to emanate from the very hills

It’s tough to impress someone who has recently completed the legendary Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. The bar is just set too high. But that’s exactly what happened when we stayed at this wild and exceptionally inspirational Peru ecolodge.

We stayed at Ulcumano during our time in the high jungle region of Oxapampa, right after visiting Cusco and Machu Picchu. Despite only being 30 minutes from town, Ulcumano feels far from everything. Several small cabins comprise the entirety of the living quarters. Each is invisible from the others, providing a relaxing and solitary spot to recharge while admiring the cacophony of bird calls, flittering of butterflies, Jurassic-size ferns, and breathtakingly beautiful moonrises among the clouds that cycle through crisp air and then roll over the verdant mountains.

The cabins are basic but have a full private bathroom (with hot water!) and a balcony to best view the outdoors. They’re fully solar powered, too.

inside wooden room with 2 beds at the Peru ecolodge of Ulcumano.
Inside our cabin

Regardless, most of our time at Ulcumano was spent outside. That’s because we were either on a hours-long trudge through the cloud forest to the mouth of a colossal cave, walking on 40-foot-tall bridges while searching for animals with the brightness of a full moon, or savoring the freshly prepared meals in the common area.

Ulcumano is an excellent example of conservation science meeting outdoor travel. The 252-acre site has been completely converted from grasslands, and the lodge is run by a family. The wife is a local from Oxapampa and the husband is a conservation professional. The food they prepare is as good as any bougie restaurant in Lima.

There is only cell phone and internet service in the common eating area, and it’s spotty. You can even find cell phone service at Machu Picchu, so Ulcumano was THE spot that forced us to experience everything around us, with no escape. It was annoying, it was freeing, and it made us feel alive.

Activities

woman standing on cable pedestrian bridge
Night time canopy walk
cable pedestrian bridge

We did a guided tour to a cave, hiking over thick mud and an abandoned road to the entrance of “Tunqui Cueva“. Actually this is the hike in our YouTube video.

At nighttime we found the energy to climb up the stairs of the 40-foot-tall platforms and walk on the canopy bridges. We attempted to spot animals under the shine of the full moon, to no avail. But the chance to witness the tropical canopy at nighttime was worth it in itself.

Other activities at Ulcumano include birdwatching, rappelling and ziplining. Since it’s a small operation, you should contact them ahead of time if you want to do a specific activity.

What to Pack

bright moon at nighttime, shot from grass
Nighttime shot of the moon

This section of the cloud forest is higher in altitude than Oxapampa, so it gets chilly in the evening. Bring clothes for outdoor activities, and try to dress in layers since the days get warm and the nights cold. And bring waterproof clothing!!

Headlamps and flashlights are essential since there is no electricity outside of the cabins. Besides that, know that the only beings that enjoy the cloud forest more than outdoor travelers are bugs. So pack bug spray!

How to Arrive

The lodge actually picks you up from the bus terminal or your hotel in Oxapampa. You’ll see why as you approach Ulcumano; nobody without experience should attempt that rutted, bumpy, nausea-inducing drive!

Conclusion

Sunrise from our cabin. Yup, definitely a cloud forest!

This isn’t the only ecolodge in Peru, or even in Oxapampa. But since we had such an excellent time there, we had to write about it. If you have been to Ulcumano – or are thinking of going – leave a comment below!

Until next time!

-Brad & Jani

Responsible Tour Operators- How do we Find Them?

very handsome man with book bag jumping and clicking heels
Can you travel, connect with other cultures, and be part of conserving local environments? All at the same time? Yes, yes you can! Woohoo!!

There are different ways to describe what I call responsible tourism. Some say sustainable tourism, others ethical tourism, for example. Others use the term authentic tourism. Similarly, when we say we only recommend and use responsible tour operators, this may cause confusion.

To start off, these are all part of the same idea: traveling in a way that is respectful to local people and the environment, and not in a way that takes advantage of people in different economic situations. 

Searching for Responsible Tour Operators

I look for three things before using or recommending a tour operator. First, I figure out where their owners are based. Community or locally-owned operations tend to have more at stake in making tourism sustainable than a large chain. 

Second, I see if there is anything they are doing above and beyond standard practice. This varies by location. So you can imagine lots of research goes into this second point. Sometimes I find really amazing places like an ecolodge that grows its own food or a hostel made of 100% recycled materials.

Other times small things make a place stand out. One example is a hotel in Lima that provides clean water for guests to fill up their reusable bottles. In a desert city like Lima, anything that contributes to fewer one-use plastic bottles is worthy of my time and money.

Speaking of money, the third thing I look at is the price. I get immediately suspicious of the cheapest operators and hotels (which doesn’t mean they are necessarily bad).

mist coming over stone structures with green peak in background. Machu Picchu. Responsible tour operators are the best way to get here :)
Use an Inca Trail operator that pays living wages to their porters. That way, we all win!!

This is especially true for finding responsible tour operators on the Inca Trail, where porters and guides are not guaranteed good salaries. This is despite their incredibly deep knowledge and special skill set! If a price is too good to believe compared to other mid-range and lower-mid range options, that is a sign someone is taking advantage of an employee.

These three rules are not hard and fast. For example, many hotels have low rates since they are family run operations and so the employees, as the owners, make 100% of the profit. So, it depends, and much more research is needed before I use a service or recommend it.

But these are what I have in mind when making reservations of my own and when recommending something on Gringo Inca. This way we can ensure the local environment and economy are healthy and hopefully even strengthened by our travels.

Be Part of the Best Trend- Earth-Friendly Tourism!

You can check out our recommendations for the Inca Trail and where to stay in Peru to have a responsible trip yourself. Better yet, email us at gringoinca.com to create an adventure you can feel good about!

Warmest wishes~ Brad