Travel Anecdote from San Francisco

The damp tunnel from Union Square would be gloomy if not for the red and yellow mural. It’s decorated with lively stencils announcing ones approach to Chinatown. Pedestrians make their way through the tunnel and ignore the occasional cars and also the unhoused couple at the exit.

I had followed someone’s directions to North Beach and didn’t realize I’d first pass through Chinatown. San Francisco’s Chinatown is the largest outside of Asia, home to 70,000 people in an area of thirty blocks. The sidewalks are crowded this Sunday, and several signs and lanterns portend the upcoming Lunar New Year. I pass by narrow stores stuffed to the brim with objects like $2.99 winter beanies and restaurants with roasted ducks hanging in the window, and the smell of mainbao stands out.

A little girl in a pink jacket is standing in front of a bucket of fresh crabs, and she is picking out an individual crustacean for her mother to purchase when I spot the red, green and white of the Italian flag painted on a lamppost catty-corner to me. I zip through the crowd and cross the street before the signal changes.

Discovering Coit Tower

In one block it’s a different city. Corner delis, espresso cafes, and large sidewalks with vegetation create a faux European vibe. I hear a lot more English (and see a lot more Italian) than just a few minutes ago. Upon reaching a large plaza, I spot a tower on a hill. The views have to be great from there, so I decide to walk in that direction. Following are several blocks of steep sidewalk.

In the middle of the climb the smell of coffee makes itself present. There is a cafe constructed out of somebody’s living room window, and it’s cleverly named “Hole in the Wall”. I’m intrigued and order a cup. The barista is about thirty years old, slightly stout, and has a sincere smile. Apparently his other job is archaeologist. He exclaims, “I’ll trade places!” a bit too enthusiastically when I tell him I left six inches of snow back home. Apparently “SF” has been grey and gloomy for weeks.

The barrista doesn’t drink coffee but recommends the house brew. Not shockingly, it’s a good Italian roast.

The climb takes about ten minutes, but it feels longer. The small park that contains Coit tower smells of eucalyptus and marijuana. The weather is cool and humid. One can spot Alcatraz, the Golden Gate and Bay Bridges, but unfortunately none of my photos come out well. Now I’m powered by the double dose of caffeine and exploration, and I head downhill towards the water.

This is a mistake! Soon I’m in the Embarcadero neighborhood, surrounded by an infinite number of groups of babbling tourists, colorful dinging trolleys, and shouting hot dog vendors. Someone on the sidewalk adds house music to complete the chaos.

My internal clock is three hours ahead of the city’s, and I’ve been awake since 5am. It’s time to grab some dinner and recharge.

San Francisco: Outdoor Activity Tip

During my quick trip, I learned there are plenty of cool urban hikes in San Francisco. For a complete list, check out Alltrails. In addition to the Coit tower walk, I took a hike to the Twin Peaks via Mission District. Get to the top of the peaks to see the whole city below! Or if you have our luck, arrive with the fog and the sensation that this city of 800,000 instantly disappeared below you. Remember to bring hiking shoes and water.

The hike was steep, and I completed it with two friends in about an hour. Afterwards we celebrated with burritos and beer in Mission District. It was divine.