In a place like Ninos Hotel, avoiding coffee is easily the worst part of altitude adjustment (necessary before starting the Inca Trail). The freshly made bread rolls, of three unique types, warmed our bellies in the cold Cusco morning. They were accompanied by locally-made butter and fruit jellies made from things like mountain elderberry. Everything else we ordered for breakfast was delectable, from the pancakes to eggs.
The attentive, patient waitress quickly moved plates on and off the relatively tiny table in the dining room, which was full of hanging plants, wooden furniture and a lime-green, wrap-around balcony above. The breakfast was a warm welcome after our two-flight trip, and it felt like the first rays of sun on your face after a long week of rain. Surely the coffee we regrettably rejected must have been out of this world.
With only three days in Cusco, we decided to start exploring right away. The receptionist offered tiny coca-flavored candies to suck on, saying it would help with the altitude adjustment. I snagged a few and shoved them into a back pants pocket.
Always trust the locals.
Streets of Cusco
The brick pedestrian street was flanked by whitewashed buildings with vermillion tiled roofs that served as homes, small hotels, general stores and pharmacies. Many of them were flying the red-and-white Peruvian flag, usually accompanied by the rainbow Cusco banner. It was chilly in the shade and refreshing in the sun, but by no means warm. A breathtakingly blue sky hosted several harmless clouds.
I picked up signs that the safety in Cusco was not only better than social media would have one believe, but that even the most common crime against tourists (pickpocketing) wasn’t too bad. Expensive phones and cameras were practically being flaunted. A couple of tall blonde Gringos in blue Patagonia insulated vests were even holding up GoPro cameras as they filmed their city stroll.
The Market
We moved past sidewalk vendors selling trinkets and unexpectedly into an artesian fair. It was neatly organized, with rows of vendors under white canopies. They were painters, textile makers, and ceramic artists. Most wore wool sweaters and hats. The chullo hat, with extra-long sides to keep the ears warm, was popular. Many of the women had colorful skirts, the colors and designs often telling from what town the person came. It smelled of palo santo, a relaxing and spiritual incense not unlike sage. Two musicians were under one canopy, and their acoustic sound went above the murmur of souvenir-searching travelers and vendors.
There was no shade in this plaza. I took off my hat and drank some water. It’s good to stay hydrated in the altitude.
The Perfect Purchase
The markets in Cusco are like the dancefloor at a wedding. Some people are ready to go, and others are tentative. But it’s best to be deliberate when deciding which stand to approach. That’s because you will be shown every product, at every size, and at variable prices depending on how interested you seem. One can lose a lot of time here.
A woman with tan complexion that suggested years of Andean sun sat in one of the stands. She wore a bowler hat and red sweater, and her face showed just the very beginnings of middle age. Her tent area was about 20 square feet large and full of hand made clothes. Wool sweaters hung on the sides of the stand and made a fuzzy wall of varying vibrant and dull colors.
We felt a few pieces of clothing and noticed they were very smooth.
“Baby alpaca,” the woman said, nodding. She dutifully noted the price as we turned our attention to a new piece of clothing. These were all obviously well done.
But one stood out. It was a brown sweater with a hood, with figurines of llamas on the fringes. Did she have one in a smaller size, for a 2 year old, perhaps?
“Si,” she responded, again nodding. Swiftly she found the size we needed and told us the price, ready for us to haggle down a few soles. But we agreed on the first offer, and I pulled out some cash. Our kid couldn’t make it to Peru this time, but he was going to love this addition to his wardrobe.
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