One goes to Aguas Calientes because it’s the last stop on the way to Machu Picchu. Because of that, there isn’t actually much to do IN Aguas Calientes besides shop for souvenirs and have your choice from countless hotels and restaurants. It’s less “things to do in Aguas Calientes” and more “what do I do in this tourist trap tiny town while I’m not at Machu Picchu?!”.
However, there is a good hike to the mountain of Putukusi, just outside of Aguas Calientes towards Machu Picchu. Putukusi is a sacred mountain, and the strenuous trip takes 3 hours roundtrip. You’ll climb up ladders at the steepest parts, earning excellent views of Machu Picchu and the town of Aguas Calientes once you arrive at the top.
SAFETY NOTE: Talk to a tour operator to visit Putukusi. Parts of the path were washed away by rains, and it’s easy to get lost among the steep trails.
Aguas Calientes gets its name from the town’s thermal baths located 400m (1,300 ft) from the main plaza. Soak in the warm waters after finishing the Inca Trail! They are open from 5am to 8pm, and entrance is S/ 20 (about $6 USD).
How to Get There
The easiest (and most expensive) way to arrive at Aguas Calientes is by train. Inca Rail and Peru Rail leave from Cusco (3-4 hrs) and Ollantaytambo (1.5 hrs). Peru Rail also provides service from Urubamba (2 hrs 45 minutes to 3 hrs). For a roundtrip ticket from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, economy class goes for $140 (yes, DOLLARS).
If you’re Peruvian, the local train costs S/ 10. You can only get on the local train with a Peruvian passport.
A few people walk along the train tracks from Ollantaytambo. I’ve never done this and am not sure how safe it is. To get to Ollantaytambo from Cusco, take a bus from Pavitos street in Cusco. The trip takes about 90 minutes and costs S/ 12. Of course, from Ollantaytambo you can also take the train to Aguas Calientes or a bus to Santa Maria (see below).
The back way via the “hidroelectrica” has gotten more attention from backpackers in recent years. This takes longer but is considerably cheaper. First, take a bus from Terminal Quillabamba in Cusco for Santa Maria. This takes about 5-6 hours. Once in Santa Maria, you take another car to Santa Teresa (a journey of 1.5 hours). You can stay in Santa Teresa for the night.
From Santa Teresa another car takes you to the “hidroelectrica” within an hour. Trains leave Hidroelectrica at 6:45 AM, 12:35 PM, and 1:30 PM. You can only buy tickets at the station in Hidroelectrica. Tickets are only sold in cash, and the price seems to have gone up annually. The latest I saw was $40 for a one-way ticket. From Hidroelectrica, the journey to Aguas Calientes takes 35 minutes.
Alternatively, walking alongside the tracks from Hidroelectrica to Aguas Calientes takes 2-3 hours. Bring water!
How to Get to Machu Picchu from Aguas Calientes
That’s the big question! The INC (Instituto Nacional de Cultura) has an office next to the train station in Aguas Calientes. There you can buy tickets for Machu Picchu and for the bus to Machu Picchu. You can buy ahead of time, too.
Buses leave close to the INC office. The first leaves at 5:30 AM, and they depart about every 15 minutes until 3PM. Catch the first one to see the last part of sunrise at Machu Picchu. The ride to Machu Picchu takes about 30 minutes. Return buses leave Machu Picchu for Aguas Calientes from 6:30 AM until 5:45 PM.
You can walk from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu, too. Just walk on the side of the road that the buses take. There are stairs in some spots to save you from walking alongside the road the entire time. The hike takes 2 hours and is fairly strenuous (you’re going uphill pretty much the whole time).
No food or drink is sold inside Machu Picchu. For this reason, no matter how you get to Machu Picchu, bring plenty of snacks and water!!
Weather
Year-round highs are in the low 60s F (16-18 C) and hover around freezing at night, dipping below freezing from June through August. Definitely bundle up and wear layers!
When to Visit Aguas Calientes
Basically, “when to visit Machu Picchu”. The one time NOT to visit is in February, when Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail are closed for maintenance. The rainy season is from November to March, so prices are cheaper but your experience might be hampered.
The BEST time to go is late April and May, when the vegetation is still lush from the rains but it is not yet peak tourist season.
Finally, the Inca’s celebration of Inti Raymi is the biggest date for tourists to Machu Picchu, occuring on the summer solstice.
Where to Stay in Aguas Calientes
This town does not lack hotels. But I always go for sustainability and adventure-focused establishments, so I recommend Rupa Wasi.
This beautiful lodge has a garden, terrace, massage services, and bar area. It’s a 3-minute walk to the bus station for Machu Picchu. The packed lunches are a nice touch for those waking up early (there are no food or drink options in Machu Picchu).
Conclusion
Machu Picchu is the reason Aguas Calientes gets so many visitors. And unless you do the Inca Trail, chances are you’ll end up in Aguas Calientes before Machu Picchu. Fortunately there are some things to do like hike Putukusi mountain or go in the hot springs.
If you’re ready to stop reading about places and want to go, here’s my itinerary to Southern Peru.
