Comparisons with other hikes in the region make the short Inca Trail seem like a Cusco cheat code. You take the world-famous Trail and arrive to the Wonder of the World that is Machu Picchu in only one day. That’s compared to 4 to 8 days for other Inca Trail options. But in reality this is a separate experience, complete with its own pros and cons.
So don’t be fooled by misconceptions that this trek is easy (it’s not). Or that it is lacks breathtaking views (far from the truth). Or, honestly, that this 2-day experience is cheaper (it is, but not by much).
Let’s start with the most common question on the Short Inca Trail. And our response is: Without a doubt!
This hike does not include the extreme heights and other highlights from the regular 4-day Inca Trail; however hikers pass through impressive Incan sites, a beautifully biodiverse Andean landscape and fantastically forested hillsides on this trek to Machu Picchu.
Also just like the longer version, this hike is on the official Inca Trail and includes memorable moments like the infamous “gringo killer” stairs.
Undoubtedly the longer hikes in the Cusco region provide payoffs that this shortened version cannot. But this is a wonderful and once-in-a-lifetime experience that is more than worth it for anyone who doesn’t have the time for (or doesn’t want to do) a 4-8 day trek.
Our bumpy van ride from Cusco to Ollantaytambo’s train station started at 3:45 in the morning. We arrived to the train station at around 5:30 and ate breakfast. Like most hotels in Cusco do, Niños offered us breakfasts to go, with hot coca tea and all.
Eyes half-open, we received our train tickets from our tour guide and ascended the train. It was a 1 hour descent towards tropical climes and kilometer 104. I tried to keep awake and observe the landscape as it changed but only recall a sleepily green haze.
The only way to KM 104 is by train. The narrow valley is barely wider than the river itself, which is hugged by train tracks and trails on opposite sides.
A wire bridge brought us to the starting point, a bright site brimming with lush vegetation, backpackers and guides. We took off our sweaters. It smelled of chocolate and, near a certain group hikers, enough bug spray to kill off a species.
Within minutes the trail took us to the first Incan site, Chachabamba. Chachabamba is a small site with a few houses and a spot for religious ceremonies in the center.
Abraham, our guide, took a moment to explain Cusco’s palpable Incan pride and some history. He explained the concept of ayni. This is similar to reciprocity in English. Ayni is the habit of helping someone, with the understanding that they will do the same for you when (or if) needed. Ayni permeates the way of life in the Peruvian Andes on a daily basis, as anyone who has found themselves lost in a small pueblo can confirm.
Practicing Ayni extended even to the Inca’s imperial endeavors. Newly conquered peoples were provided with better access to food and supplies, and could keep their languages and religions, in return for not warring with the powerful Cusco potentate.
The trail really begins after Chachabamba. For the next 1-2 hours we trudged uphill on a thin, dusty strip on the mountainside. A recent fire took out the vegetation, but surrounding us were green mountainsides, so close that they seemed huddled together like campers next to a fire on a chilly night. Our friend commented on the resemblance of this part of the Andes to the Alps in Europe.
Soon the train tracks were out of sight, but the powerful Urubamba was still visible and heard. Every once in a while a train whistle reminded us that Machu Picchu was not too far.
Eventually the trail was covered by shade as we moved closer to river crossings and a waterfall. The splash of ice cold water on my face was invigorating and well-welcomed.
The Incas knew how to present. The path widens and stonework is more intricate as you approach an important spot. A dozen or so stone stairs worked our stride towards a 20-foot-tall boulder. As we moved around the imposing rock, Wiñaywayna stepped from hiding into view
Hundreds of terraces make up the entire side of a mountain. A housing complex and large sun temple sit atop everything. The circular temple’s windows align with solstices, the waterfall, and other celestial and natural points of importance.
We ate lunch right after. Our porter (who was also the chef) made guacamole, a quinoa dish, and dessert.
The second half of the short Inca Trail is mostly flat or downhill, with one breathtaking exception. The path is wide, signifying something of spiritual significance approaches.
This was my favorite part of the trail. It rolls through green cloud forest, and hummingbirds of all sizes and colors flittered around us.
The pleasantness came to an abrupt end at the bottom of an impossibly steep stairway. Our guide explained we had arrived at the “Gringo Killer“.
Hearts pounded as we climbed, at times on all fours. The Gringo Killer stairs are slightly uneven but laid strong, making for easy gripping. But the easy conversation that had been going on since lunch was gone.
At the top our friend Maria exclaimed her true feelings. Breathless, she looked at us with wide eyes and sputtered out, “DEATH!”
Behind was a yet-unseen view of the valley, the Urubamba, and a handful of archaeological sites. We saw sections of trail that we had hiked earlier, now amber cords wrapped around monstrous mountains.
Soon enough we were at the Sun Gate, Intipunku. It sat on a ridge with rays of sun swooping through, announcing the presence of Machu Picchu like golden streamers.
The short Inca Trail is no small accomplishment. We were exhausted, we hugged other, took photos and had contented smiles. Then we began the short descent to Machu Picchu.
Post-descent to Machu Picchu, it was photo time! Each traveler, couple, and the group as a whole took photos at the iconic spot with Huaynu Picchu mountain in the background.
Llamas were happy to share their home, and they divided their time between letting tourists pet them and trying to nibble a bite of an unsuspecting visitor’s snack. Several lay down on the edge of a terrace. Their wool fluffed up , giving them an odd look, like fuzzy bean bag chairs with long giraffe-like necks.
We then took a bus to Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas Calientes) to shower, eat dinner, and grab an early sleep.
The park service divides Machu Picchu into 4 separate circuits. This lessens the burden on each section of the site. Each circuit ensures that travelers still see every part of Machu Picchu.
We had circuit 4, a longer trail that is the lowest on the mountain. This takes you to the entrances for Huaynu Picchu and Huchuy Picchu. Our group signed up for Huaynu Picchu and beelined to the entrance upon leaving the bus.
After the Huaynu Picchu hike (which is optional) we had the tour of Machu Picchu. This is an enjoyable, educational excursion where the guide explains the importance of the site and each section.
Note: The crowds make it easy to keep moving and forget to take time to really appreciate Machu Picchu. This is a 600-year-old sacred site, still intact despite the Spanish’s best attempts to destroy anything Incan. The steps you use and of all the views have not changed in centuries.
So take your time to soak it in. Appreciate the Incas, the Pachamama, and how Machu Picchu’s shape fits into and even mirrors the landscape. Stop and wait to take that fantastic photo when you need.
Our two days over, we hopped into a van for Cusco after picking up our things from the hotel. The trip involved a quick detour to buy a snack from the market (fresh cheese and corn!). We then rested.
The Inca Trail was a religious pilgrimage route. It was part of the royal road that connected the entire western half of South America– from Chile to Colombia.
While today anyone with a ticket can enter, in Incan times only societal elites had the privilege of walking certain sections of the royal road. That includes the part that we now call the Inca Trail.
The hike is 12 km/7.46 miles long. It takes an average of 6-7 hours to complete.
The short Inca Trail starts at Kilometer 104, which is the first train stop after Ollantaytambo. It ends at Machu Picchu.
You CANNOT get a permit (or enter) any section of the Inca Trail without a professional guide. This means you have to use a tour company, who vary somewhat in cost, comfort and quality.
Companies obtain permits for hikers upon payment.
Cusco has countless tour companies. Over 200 are licensed with access to the Inca Trail. But the type and quality of experience vary, even though the hike is the same.
Choosing a quality tour operator makes all the difference. It determines how well you sleep, the food you eat, and how well the guide presents the Trail and its sites.
Another factor that many visitors don’t consider is, who benefits? Not all companies are truly local. Those that are often work on social projects with villages in the Sacred Valley.
So I recommend choosing a truly local operation, such as Andean Path Travel. The owner, David, is from Huayllabamba, a small, picturesque village and campsite on the Inca Trail.
David started Andean Path Travel in 2016 after over a decade of working in tourism. The company has only a handful of guides, all local and bilingual, and they specialize in hikes to Machu Picchu. Naturally, they offer the 2-day and 4-day Inca Trails. But they also offer alternate hikes such as Salkantay, Lares and Ausangate.
Andean Path offers tours of Cusco and the Sacred Valley, too. And they have a perfect 5/5 rating on TripAdvisor. You can email them at andeanpathtravel@gmail.com to customize your trip or book a tour at andeanpathtravel.com!
You can hike the Inca Trail eleven months out of the year (this and Machu Picchu are closed in February).
Best practice is to buy permits a 2-4 months ahead of time. Fortunately, the Short Inca Trail does not sell out as quickly as other Inca Trail options.
There is not much variety between what tour companies include with the Short Inca Trail package. At a minimum you should receive:
Usually hiking poles are separate but offered. If your selected company does not set up a hotel in Aguas Calientes, make sure to do so quickly.
Sometimes a porter is included, too. But plan on carrying your things for the entire trek since these services are less common.
You’ll have the option to pay extra for a hike in Machu Picchu as well.
We paid $650 per person for a private tour of 4 people. That is at the medium-high end for the Short Inca Trail.
Having said that, anything from about $500-850/person is normal. A few luxury tourism companies charge even more.
This is considered a moderately difficult hike. The first half is especially tough. During these first hours you will mostly go uphill with little shade, and for miles the trail takes you across steep mountainside. The flatter, shade-rich second half balances out the trek.
The packing list for the Short Inca Trail is long, considering this is really a 1-day hike with a tour of Machu Picchu on day 2. That’s because you’ll need to prepare for the climate and also have all of your personal items for Machu Picchu, the train, and your hotel in Aguas Calientes.
Some people bring a bathing suit for the hot springs in Aguas Calientes. However we didn’t have any time for this, and the springs get very full, very fast.
Last but certainly not least: use as light a backpack as possible! You’ll probably carry all of your stuff on the Trail.
Plenty of books provide historical, spiritual and cultural contexts that will make the experience more well-rounded.
This is a daylong tour that will test anyone who is not in great shape. Get your body (and mind) used to hiking for hours while carrying a backpack.
The Short Inca Trail’s altitude is considerably lower than Cusco’s. Still, you’ll reach a height of 2,650 meters (8,692 feet). So spend 2-3 days in Cusco or the Sacred Valley to acclimatize before starting this hike.
The Short Inca Trail is the second most popular hike to Machu Picchu, and for good reason. If you don’t want to sleep outside, or don’t have the time for a multi-day hike, this is a fantastic option. And it’s stunningly beautiful and challenging enough even for types who normally backpack for 10 days at a time.
If you’ve taken this hike or are going, write a comment below! Feel free to email us at gringoinca@gmail.com if you want more information about the Trail or our experience.
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