It’s tough to impress someone who has recently completed the legendary Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. The bar is just set too high. But that’s exactly what happened when we stayed at this wild and exceptionally inspirational Peru ecolodge.
We stayed at Ulcumano during our time in the high jungle region of Oxapampa, right after visiting Cusco and Machu Picchu. Despite only being 30 minutes from town, Ulcumano feels far from everything. Several small cabins comprise the entirety of the living quarters. Each is invisible from the others, providing a relaxing and solitary spot to recharge while admiring the cacophony of bird calls, flittering of butterflies, Jurassic-size ferns, and breathtakingly beautiful moonrises among the clouds that cycle through crisp air and then roll over the verdant mountains.
The cabins are basic but have a full private bathroom (with hot water!) and a balcony to best view the outdoors. They’re fully solar powered, too.
Regardless, most of our time at Ulcumano was spent outside. That’s because we were either on a hours-long trudge through the cloud forest to the mouth of a colossal cave, walking on 40-foot-tall bridges while searching for animals with the brightness of a full moon, or savoring the freshly prepared meals in the common area.
Ulcumano is an excellent example of conservation science meeting outdoor travel. The 252-acre site has been completely converted from grasslands, and the lodge is run by a family. The wife is a local from Oxapampa and the husband is a conservation professional. The food they prepare is as good as any bougie restaurant in Lima.
There is only cell phone and internet service in the common eating area, and it’s spotty. You can even find cell phone service at Machu Picchu, so Ulcumano was THE spot that forced us to experience everything around us, with no escape. It was annoying, it was freeing, and it made us feel alive.
Activities
We did a guided tour to a cave, hiking over thick mud and an abandoned road to the entrance of “Tunqui Cueva“. Actually this is the hike in our YouTube video.
At nighttime we found the energy to climb up the stairs of the 40-foot-tall platforms and walk on the canopy bridges. We attempted to spot animals under the shine of the full moon, to no avail. But the chance to witness the tropical canopy at nighttime was worth it in itself.
Other activities at Ulcumano include birdwatching, rappelling and ziplining. Since it’s a small operation, you should contact them ahead of time if you want to do a specific activity.
What to Pack
This section of the cloud forest is higher in altitude than Oxapampa, so it gets chilly in the evening. Bring clothes for outdoor activities, and try to dress in layers since the days get warm and the nights cold. And bring waterproof clothing!!
Headlamps and flashlights are essential since there is no electricity outside of the cabins. Besides that, know that the only beings that enjoy the cloud forest more than outdoor travelers are bugs. So pack bug spray!
How to Arrive
The lodge actually picks you up from the bus terminal or your hotel in Oxapampa. You’ll see why as you approach Ulcumano; nobody without experience should attempt that rutted, bumpy, nausea-inducing drive!
Conclusion
This isn’t the only ecolodge in Peru, or even in Oxapampa. But since we had such an excellent time there, we had to write about it. If you have been to Ulcumano – or are thinking of going – leave a comment below!
Until next time!
-Brad & Jani
