Blue, green, and turquoise lakes. Icy peaks, flowing rivers, and glaciers. And often not a human in sight. This is your experience if you hike the globally-recognized Huayhuash.
Huayhuash is a private conservation area managed by local communities. It’s recognized as one of the best hikes in the world. And with only 5-7,000 visitors a year, it’s much less crowded than the Inca Trail (which sees 500 people a day!).
Huayhuash is already well-known in trekking circles, and mountain biking is available now, too.
I think the best part of Huayhuash is that you can create your own adventure. Itineraries vary from three to eighteen days. They are generally moderate to moderately strenuous, so you don’t have to be an expert mountaineer to enjoy Huayhaush.
The crazy thing is, the Huayhuash mountain chain is only 30km (19 miles) long. Yet it includes 3 departments in Peru, campsites at 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level, hot springs, turquoise lakes, glaciers, and the country’s second tallest mountain.
Unlike most hikes in the Andes, this landscape here is more open. Because of that you’ll get amazing views of the mountain chain as you walk and rest at campsites. That’s also why Huayhuash is considered one of the world’s best hikes. Highlights include the three lakes, all different colors, and Peru’s second tallest mountain, Yerupaja. Yerupaja is 6,635 meters (21,800 feet) tall.
The movie Touching the Void (based on a true story) takes place in Huayhuash, too. You’ll get up close with the mountain that Joe Simpson and Simon Yates scaled, Siula Grande.
Plus if you hike Huayhuash you’ll directly contribute to local communities who manage the campsites. And you’ll see cool wildlife like llamas, alpacas, viscachas, Andean foxes, and condors.
Last but not least, this hike is more affordable than its more famous competition in Southern Peru.
But Huayhuash is just as good… perhaps better.
Again, Huayhaush really is a create-your-own-adventure, which is unique for a hike that’s so highly regarded. There are options for all types of budgets and expectations.
To do the WHOLE hike, there are 15-18 day itineraries. But more visitors take a 9-10 day option or the “mini” 7-day hike. Each of these includes the main attractions of the full 18-day hike. Finally, consider a 3-day hike if you’re short on time, funds, or aren’t sure about a longer trek.
Almost all of these start in Llamac in Ancash department and include the view of three lakes. Campsites are usually at over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) above sea level.
Some hikes start in the thermal baths in the department of Lima and include the Raura mountain range, which is adjacent to Huayhuash. A few tour companies offer archaeology-based hikes, and several center on mountain climbing.
The most common itinerary for Huayhuash is 9-11 days. That’s because you see all the “big” attractions and aren’t going to be rushed. This is a moderately strenuous trek which includes several 8-9 hour long hikes.
You start off in Huaraz (Ancash’s hiking capital and 8 hours from Lima). From there it’s a 2 hour ride to Chiquian, and from there 1 more hour to Llamac.
Llamac is where trek begins.
From Llamac it’s a forty minute walk to Pocpa, and a further 1.5 hours to the campsite. Another option is to continue hiking uphill to Cuartelhuain for the night.
Start getting used to early mornings! At 7 am start the 2 hr uphill walk to Cacananpunta Pass, located at 4,750 meters or 15,580 feet above sea level. By lunchtime the hiking gets easier and you camp at Mitucocha.
Mitucocha is next to a river and you’ll chill with views of snowcapped mountains from the green valley.
This is another 5 hour day of hiking. Today the tallest point is Yanapunta Pass, at 4,650 meters, or 15,260 feet. If you haven’t started, consider coca tea for the altitude.
You end up at Carhuacocha lake to camp for the night.
It’s the first big day! That’s because you’ll walk for 8 hours, see the 3 lakes, and go over Siula Pass, next to the infamous Siula Grande.
Siula Pass is the tallest pass of the hike so far at 4,785 meters (15,700 feet). From there you’ll get an awesome view of the three lakes and mountain range behind them.
Afterwards it’s all downhill to the Huayhuash campsite.
This is a day of hiking for 5 hours to Viconga, where you can soak in hot springs. In case it’s not obvious, NEVER pass up a chance to soak in hot springs during a long, cold hike!
You’ll also go over Portachuelo Pass, which is about the same height as Siula, and end up at an altitude of 4,350 meters (17,560 feet) to camp for the night.
By now you might be used to getting up at 7am and walking for hours. Which is exactly what you’ll do today. The total hiking time today is about 8 hours.
You’ll summit Cuyoc Pass at 5,000 meters (16,400 feet). From there you’ll view the whole Huayllapa valley and head on down to the campsite. If you have energy go to the Antonio lookout. From there you can view the entire mountain chain.
For three hours you’ll walk to the town of Huayllapa, the first place you can buy limited food and supplies.
Rest up, make some phone calls, or just chill in town, because afterwards it’s 4-5 hours of slogging uphill to the campsite at 4,235 meters (13,900 feet).
This is the longest day. You’ll hike for roughly 9 hours and go over two passes that are over 4,700 meters (15,400 feet) high. At the second pass, you’ll have lunch and enjoy one last great view of Huayhuash.
Today’s short and 80% of the walk is downhill. You’ll finish at the town of Pacllon. From Pacllon take a bus back to Chiquian and then Huaraz.
Afterwards, rest up, eat, and bask in the knowledge that you did the most awesome hike ever.
Start thinking of how to brag to those people who could’ve come but didn’t :)
Since Huayhuash is a multiday trek and the passes you’ll cross are incredibly high, it’s important to be in good hiking shape and to acclimatize to the altitude.
You can acclimatize in the city of Huaraz and take day hikes from there. First I’d take it easy in Huaraz for a couple of days since the city itself sits at 3,000 meters or 10,000 feet. Before arriving, make sure you’re in good shape and able to take on a long, sometimes strenuous hike. Practice makes perfect, so get in plenty of hiking back home beforehand.
The best hikes from Huaraz include:
Huaraz is a cool town with lots of backpackers and hikers. So it’s easy to find a guide, information on how to arrive to trails, and hiking buddies.
Always stay well-hydrated at these altitudes. Avoid alcohol and caffeine initially, and consider an over-the-counter medicine to avoid altitude sickness.
Finally if you want to try a shorter multi-day hike to prepare for Huayhuash I recommend Santa Cruz, yet another hike recognized as one of the best in the world!
Whether you think you can or can’t, you’re probably right (Henry Ford).
Remember it’s tents outside every night when you hike Huayhuash. There are no showers and toilets are waterless. So, it’s, ahem, rustic.
If you’ve prepped enough physically, you’ll know. And just knowing may be enough. Of course, who you go with is crucial. When the air is thin, the weather cold, and my legs tired, I always want the most positive people around me.
Finally, just enjoy the hike. It’s not a race, and instead of rushing through and tiring out on Day 4, take your time and set a good pace.
Our friends, Hombres y Montañas (Men and Mountains) have worked in Huayhuash for generations. They are a family company and are professionals in responsible tourism.
Connect with them on Facebook to find out more and make a reservation.
May to September is the best time to hike Huayhuash because the rainy season has ended by about mid-May. The best time to go is late May and June. The vegetation will still be green and it doesn’t get as cold at night as in July or August, which are also the most popular months for trekking in the area.
Avoid traveling in the rainy season from November-April, when landslides are common and accommodations can be hard to find.
The backpacker classic in Huaraz is Churup.
Cafe Andino and California Cafe are spots to check out for relaxing with a good book and coffee or coca tea.
There are lots of options for Peruvian food and nightlife, with 13 Buhos perhaps the best spot to grab a drink.
Obviously, trekking equipment (and climbing gear if that’s your thing). For a hike similar to the one above, you should have this equipment at a minimum:
You may want to consider these, depending on your preference and how much you want to bring.
TIPS: It’s common to rent equipment in Huaraz, or to even buy used equipment. Most agencies provide some or most of the equipment written above.
The temperature goes down to 0-2 C (32-36 F) at night and is coldest in July. But it goes up to 20C (68F), even at high altitudes, at daytime.
Expect lighter rainstorms in May and Oct. From June through September, known as “Andean summer”, you can get clear blue skies all day, every day.
Huaraz gets up to 20C (68F) during the day and will go down to 5-6C (40’s F) at night.
Buses leave regularly from Lima to Huaraz all day. The trip takes 8 hours. Huaraz has an airport but flights are not always regular.
From the north, buses from Trujillo and Chiclayo go to Huaraz, too.
The cost of hiking Huayhuash is going to depend on a lot of factors, especially number of days and what’s included. Depending on price, agencies may provide 3 square meals a day, a tent, sleeping bag, a team to carry supplies, cooks, entrance to the communities’ campsites, and transportation.
Having said that huge caveat, you can expect to more or less pay these amounts for Huayhuash:
If going alone, make sure you pay each community for using the trail and campsites. Remember that only ONE community (Huayllapa) has shops, so you’re not restocking daily.
And expect to pay in cash.
These communities provide the following campsites:
Huayhuash is among the best hikes in the world, and it’s way less crowded than Peru’s most famous hike, the Inca Trail.
Definitely consider it if adventure is in your blood. Just make sure to acclimatize to the altitude and to prepare your body first.
Again, the mountain chain’s preservation depends on local communities, so be sure to leave no trace and respect the people and wildlife. To get the most out of your trip and hike Huayhuash, check out our partners at Hombres y Montañas Huayhuash (Facebook). These guys are responsible tourism professionals who focus on adventure tourism in Ancash.
Unless otherwise noted, all photos by our friend Erick Bernabe from Hombres y Montañas. Muchas gracias, Erick!!
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