The Choquequirao trek will show you an ancient city larger than Machu Picchu, but one that remains far from most tourists’ attention. Here, visitors do not arrive on comfortable trains. Those who visit are true adventurers.
After days of exhausting hiking, brave trekkers can find the absolute silence of these mysterious ruins. Archaeologists estimate that only 40% of the city is excavated. That is why you should visit Choquequirao now, before the crowds rob you of the opportunity of an authentic encounter with the past.
The walk to the Inca citadel begins in the small town of Cachora. From there, it continues to cross the Apurimac River Canyon, eventually reaching the ruins of Choquequirao. It is a difficult circuit 3 times more demanding than the classic Inca Trail. That’s since in 1 day the hike descends by a kilometer (taking about 5 hours), and the next day involves lots of steep uphill hiking.
But the effort is worth every second thanks to the breathtaking views of the canyon. While in Machu Picchu you struggle for space with 2,500 tourists to get the best photo, Choquequirao receives about 30 people a day in high season.
This makes it the true lost city of the Incas.
The trek is an incredible personal challenge offering fantastic views. However, the Peruvian government has been considering building a cable car. This will transform Choquequirao into another popular, Machu Picchu-like archaeological site.
So you should enjoy the hike before it becomes too popular!
There are two options:
Both options offer local porters who can relieve you with your load. Other porters also carry camping equipment. Another possibility is to rent a mule.
Of course, any of these help the local economy. Just please ensure your porter or mule is not overloaded, since this is an unfortunately common problem.
Entrance ticket to the archaeological site of Choquequirao is 60 Soles/person (30 Soles for students with a valid ISIC card).
The best season for hiking is from May through October.
Below you can find an itinerary for the classic 4-day route.
The trek starts with a four hour ride from Cuzco to Cachora, a small town of 3,500 inhabitants surrounded by impressive snowy peaks. This place serves for a lunch break. It is also possible to buy any last supplies. Then, participants hike for 15 minutes to get to the popular viewing spot of Capuliyoc.
Afterwards, the descent through the Apurimac River Canyon begins. This is a very steep descent and takes approximately 5 hours. There the cold wind reaches speeds that will make you stagger. However, you’ll get impressive views over the canyon on the way.
When you reach the Apurimac River, the cold wind will be replaced by warm breezes. You will see lush vegetation and hear the rhythmic sounds of the crickets all around. You keep walking through Chiquisca to get to Rosalina Beach (1,550 meters, or 5,085 feet, above sea level.), the first campsite.
In early morning, we cross the Apurimac River by means of cable car, which slides a mere three meters (10 feet) above the water. Then, one of the most difficult sections of the trek begins. You’ll make up for Day 1’s descent, going from 1,550 meters to 3,050 meters above sea level (5,085 to 10,000 feet).
The route itself is a constant, ascending zigzag under intense heat. After approximately 3-4 hours, you will reach Marampata, a small town with only 15 families. It is really admirable to see how they manage to survive in such an isolated area. There, we have a rest.
After that, the last 40-minute climb to the archaeological site of Choquequirao begins. Once you reach it, you realize that the mythical citadel is practically just for you. That’s because there are normally only 2 groups a day. It might leave you speechless. Instead of listening to tourists and flashes, you can only hear the sounds of wind and nature. Here nothing can disturb your experience.
You will spent all the afternoon walking around various agricultural terraces, aqueducts, ceremonial squares, viewpoints, ceremonial houses and temples, separated by stairs of all sizes and inclines. If you are lucky, you can even see condors flying. When the visit is over, we return to Marampata, where we camp again.
In the morning, we take the same path back to the Apurimac River. Then, we start descending for around 4-5 hours to Chiquisca, where we camp for the last night.
Today we need to climb more than 1,000 meters to reach Cachora. The climb starts very early in the morning in order to avoid the intense afternoon heat. Once in Cachora, our transport takes us back to the city of Cusco.
Completing the Choquequirao Trek will fill you with satisfaction and bring you an experience that will never be forgotten!
Definitely consider Choquequirao for an awesome experience away from the crowds.
And check out my Southern Peru Adventure guide to start planning your trip.
Finally, if you’ve done the hike or hope to one day, leave a comment below!
Until next time! -Brad
All photos courtesy of Salkantay Trek Machu.
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