You’ll find the quintessence of American winters near the bottom of a coffee mug, as you sit next to a window gazing at the snowy Montpelier sidewalk. Central Vermont is packed with sleepy, straight-out-of-a-novel New England towns. It also has a ton of adventure that is waiting for you to warm up and head back outside.
Granted, winter isn’t the only time to visit. Most snow sport areas have hiking trails that are wonderful in other parts of the year. And of course there’s The Long Trail, which at 272 miles/438km was the inspiration for the Appalachian Trail. So no matter when you visit, there will be adventure to be had, with an added dose of American quintessence.
Vermont is like your best friend’s house; there’s no bad time to visit. The off-seasons of spring, summer and fall offer hiking and other fun outdoor adventures. In particular, here the weather is mild in summer compared with other parts of the USA.
Average winter highs hover around the upper 20s F (-2C), and the lows are around 7 F (-14C). In peak summer highs are in the upper 70s F (25C), with lows in the 50s (12.5C).
Precipitation occurs year-round but is highest in summertime. Snowfall starts as early as October and ends in March or April.
None of the towns in Central Vermont are particularly big or busy (the largest, Barre, has a population under 9,000). Stowe attracts crowds of skiers and snowboarders in winter but is quiet the rest of the year.
Barre (7 miles/11.3 km SE of Montpelier) is small but walkable, with enough restaurants to provide an option if you’re in a pinch. But the biggest draw for us was the town’s proximity to Montpelier (a 15-minute drive without getting on the highway). Hope Cemetery is a creepily beautiful walk.
The smallest state capital in the United State (there are only 8,000 inhabitants!) is a cozy New England town. The main area takes up maybe six blocks, with an eclectic variety of colorful cafes and independent bookstores. It’s also where you can buy outdoor equipment, and within walking distance is the picturesque Vermont State House.
Get some tasty breakfast sandwiches at Capitol Grounds cafe, or if it’s lunchtime on a weekday, Wiliawan’s Kitchen serves DELECTABLE (worth the all caps) Tom Yum Soup. I assume they sell other delectable Thai dishes, but that was indeed some outstandingly yummy Tom Yum. Julio’s Cantina serves quality Mexican-American food (and great margaritas).
I’d avoid the crepe chain Skinny Pancake. They seemed to offer everything, yet nothing we ordered was worth the long wait time.
Capitol Grounds makes a mean espresso, and Rabble-Rouser‘s drip coffee will placate the choosiest coffee snobs.
Rent or buy snow sport equipment at Slopestyle, which is a couple minutes’ drive from town center. Check out Onion River Outdoors on Main Street for buying equipment or clothes. Both stores are locally-owned.
Waterbury (15 miles or 24km NW of Montpelier) is a pretty town in itself, but we honestly only went for the ice cream. So, unfortunately, we can’t report on the rest.
BEN AND JERRY’S ICE CREAM. You can show up for a tour without signing up ahead of time. Don’t eat before the tour; the free samples are huge!
Less than 13 miles/21 km west of Waterbury is Cochran’s Ski Area. Cochran’s is great for families or skiers/snowboarders who are shaking off the rust. Lift tickets are $19/adult and free for kids under 5 (not a typo). They do not offer rentals.
Keep driving for about seven miles after Waterbury, and you’ll hit the area’s biggest outdoor draw. Beautiful and fun, Stowe manages to stay chill despite its fame.
The Alchemist Brewery‘s food options are limited but hit the spot. Their beers are on point, and the artwork gets trippier as those beer glasses empty. You can spend a few hours here without noticing.
Stowe Mountain Resort is the big-name ski area and covers two mountaintops. If you’re okay with the price (daily lift tickets are well over $100), your whole experience can be run at picturesque Stowe; tickets, rentals, and even lodging.
Alternatively, check out the Stowe Recreational Path for hiking, snowshoeing or cross-country skiing.
Well, yes and no. Food and lodging are not cheap. That’s because basic goods like utilities and groceries are more expensive here than in the vast majority of the USA. We found a fully furnished apartment for just $90/night, but prices at restaurants and bookstore were a bit higher than in our Mid-Atlantic hometown.
You can offset these costs, however. Vermont abounds in extraordinarily cheap outdoor adventures. These include hiking, autumnal leaf peeping, and skiing (if you find the right ski area).
A great hack is to rent snow sport equipment and use it at an inexpensive ski area or even a trail with no charge to enter!
Central Vermont doesn’t just provide adventure opportunities year-round, but for each type of adventurer. There are options for snow sport experts and those just learning. Both families and solo travelers will feel safe here, too.
You can be in the middle of it all during winter in Stowe, or rent a house in a small town during the off-season. And you’ll always be a short ride from the next town, ski area, or trailhead, no matter when or where you visit.
Thanks for reading!!
-Brad
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